987_RDC

Engine could be sold on craigslist or eBay for ~6-7k depending on what is included.

Check out my 996 for sale if looking for update!

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/automobiles-sale/307561-02-cabriolet-blue-tan-nice-added-oem-parts.html

Did you confirm the ground strap on passanger side of engine was reinstalled?

Pretty sure the 99-01 is a return style while the 02+ is returnless. So not compatable. Looking for 02+ style I have a complete pump. PM me.

Use distilled water not hose water btw.

I totally understand logray, thats my thinkig as well.

I at least need to get the car to crank and initiate the DME first. I dont think changing dash, wiring and gas pedal is really an option , as all I can see is this will devalue the owners car and cost alot of money.

I am going to locate a matching 996 DME/ immobiliser and key and go from there. If I locate these units will anything have to be reprogrammed, or will they just operate?

If you dont have the time to make the engine run well, take the 02 engine out and sell it. Buy a 99-01 engine,

A correctly opperating 02 engine in a earlier car should increase the value since higher HP/TQ.

I'm guessing you have an engine harness from the 02 engine. No idea if those pinouts match the body harness of the 99 DME.....worst case the engine harness catches fire. Best case nothing happens......

Any idea on the engine harness, fuel rails, injectors etc? What is 02 and what is 99? Do you have access to PIWIS?

CAN bus is just two wire communication so add the pins+wires with swapping the instrument cluster and HVAC. (repin the 99 harness to the 02 cluster)

Fuel sytem can be converted to returnless by swapping the complete pump but you need a fuel pump pigtail to add the lines for DME 7.8 control. (should have 02 fuel rails on the newer engine)

Already noted was the e-Gas pedal swap and issues with needing 02+ DME/immobo combo (or at min the VIN from each and good friends at the dealership)

Rewiring the body harness to mate with the 02+ engine harness could work. Other things would need to be swapped also (Dash cluster, HVAC, gas pedal and fuel pump) which might make it not worthwhile....

I had colected a bunch of the swap parts planning to do something similar. I decided the time required wouldn't be worth it. PM me if you need some parts.

Not good. In the end you are likely going to have to use a PIWIS to run a re-calibration anyways. So I would recommend going to a dealer to have them reset the process correctly.

I think the OP is missing parts from his LN puller.

So the IMS bearing has a bolt through it. I don't see why the bolt would be any different than the LN one. But if so, just weld two nuts together that have the proper threading. BOOM translation unit for the IMS bolt to threading on the LN puller.

PM sent. I have IPD plenum and also Fabspeed intake for sale for 996.

Glad that worked. Now it needs to have calibration sequence run on PIWIS.

Perhaps tighten the portion on the clamshell motor that it a clutch to the clamshell. Accessable behind rear seats. Shouldn't be so tight that system binds or so loose that doesn't grab. I forget the exact number of turns.

Can you tell if the clamshell motor is "requested" to close the shell? If not then perhaps the canvas hook sensor isn't activating. Common problem, search a thread I did on repairing top opperation. Threw in a few pics of my issues, I had like 3-4 on my 1999.

From what I have read, the opinion on the threads was that DSP retrofit isn't worth the time/cost. (unless you can get parts for free)

But it seems simple enough, just need to add the DSP and matching amp. (DSP doesn't function without proper amp) There are a few wiring diagrams online to help.

files "my99_dsp" and "my99_dsp_2" and "my03_bose" are what I have found.

Well if there is truly no fault then the light wouldn't return with the battery reset, no?

You try removing the battery ground for 10 min?

Fault codes 04, 05, 20, 21, 36Ignition circuit, driver1. Remove driver's airbag unit.2. Attach the special tool 9516 instead of the airbag unit.3. Clear the fault memory.4. Check whether the fault appears again.a If the fault does not appear again, replace the airbag unit.b If the fault appears again, disconnect plug connection to the contact unit and attach special tool 9516/1.5. Clear the fault memory.6. Check whether the fault appears again.a If the fault does not appear again, replace the contact unit.b If the fault appears again, check the wiring harness for pinches and chafing damage.c If no fault is found on the wiring harness, replace the triggering unit.Proceed as described below to determine whether the fault was eliminated:1. Clear the fault memory.2. Switch oft ignition.3. Remove ignition key.4. Switch on ignition.You may need to borrow the airbag tool (a special resister in box with the correct connector - I think) orfind a shop that has one.

Someone else mentioned it may be possible to "fake" the 9516 tester with a 2.9 ohm resistor. Their logic was that the bag itself has a similar ohm value. Of course disconnect battery and wait 10 min before removing airbag.

Perhaps the oil from the RMS is getting onto the clutch surface and creating slip? Get the IMS/RMS replaced at a indy.

I thought the boost spring had to do with assiting pressing the clutch down? I had this symtom and did a bleeding of the clutch slave to resolve.

Brief How-to: Hold clutch down w/ broom handle and using power seat. Use Motive bleeder on brake fluid reservoir to pressurize. Loosen bleed valve on top of transmission for slave cylinder to bleed old fluid and then close. Manually lift clutch pedal slowly. Top up brake fluid with proper DOT4.

I have a set of after hours exhaust for 996 that has same performance as straight pipes but less drone. Send me a PM.

So in other words....lawyers win again?

This was the source of a flood in my car. Both sides were plugged with black goo. It only takes about 10 minutes a side to check and fix. It is well with the time. 996 cabriolet water under carpet

I've had no issues with my Tooki once I reflashed it to the "cold weather boot" FW. Never errors.

Wow there is actually someone at the parts in Steven's Creek? I never get a call back or email reply.....

Fremont Porsche seems to have the best pricing in Bay Area. Scott is a big help.