987_RDC

Clutch switch? Perhaps the car thinks you haven't pushed it in.

Ordered! Thanks.

I agree that a petroleum distillate product could cause seal damage. Thus selecting white lithium. I will try the silicon spray.

I will try red arrow area.

Is silicon spray better than white lithium grease?

If that picture is a blow up of the part that goes into the firewall then that is exactly where I hear it. (bubble portion)

When depressing the clutch rapidly there is an audible squeak in the cabin. I've removed the clutch assist spring and confirmed it is still present. This does not appear to be related to the clutch fork since 996 02+ and sound is inside the cabin, not exterior.

It appears to be coming from the black plastic "coupler" that threads the cable through the firewall. Anyone tackle this problem? I tried some white lithium grease with no luck....

Fits great.

Is the MAF in front of the supercharger or after? How is the bypass done? Vent to air or cycle back into the intake?

I found on my Novi 2k system (centrifigual supercharger) that draw through MAF with the blow-off air vented back into the inlet (behind MAF) resulted in a very excellent street drivability. Same system later adapted to an atmosphere vent and blow throgh MAF was great for drag strip (high RPM launchs etc) but boggged badly in stop n go.

So it may very well be simply the design. Unless this was a sudden occurance.....

Yikes. Winterizing sounds like a big pain in the ***. Glad to be in CA (except for taxes, crazies, etc)

Sad to hear of all the problems. Seems you have resolved the air delivery issues. Other than that then the two culprits would be spark and fuel. When were the coils last replaced? Is the mapping in ECU correctly adapting the injector duty cycle....

Usually aftermarket springs require firmer dampening ability. If you are going to be paying for the labor, why not have a fresh set of struts paired with the H&R? Going with full strut remove/replace should cut labor (compared with tearing off M30 springs and re-installing) and then could sell the M30 set complete in used parts....

Anyone have the electronic "guts" from a key that they don't need anymore? I wanted to experiment with swapping internal components to see if I could revive my key fob. Please shoot me a PM.

Maybe fix yours with parts from mine? Willing to mail back to find out!

There was no code. I had to manually work through each of the micro-switch steps. Turns out a few of mine were busted but the final latch one solved it. Maybe check the side drop "wings" and be sure the switching are being properly depressed. Might need to bend the metal tabs on some of the switches to get them to fire sooner. I had to adjust my top switch (inside latching mechanism) that way.

Go read a thread where I fought a similar situation on my top. For me it turned out to be the final rear latch. The calibration sequence will not complete unless all the switches work. I also got confused by the top reversing before latching, it was a red herring on mine.

I am surprised that a 20 mile drive wouldn't get the oil to proper temp. Approx how long does that take? I assumed when the coolant showed 180* that the car was ready to be driven hard.

Let me know who you end up using. I have a scratch I need repaired and haven't gotten around to finding a good place.

For a leather repair I used http://www.leatherrepairkits.com/porsche.htm It was great match for Savannah Beige interior. Just don't apply too much or will be dark.

Dumb Q but did you remove your tensioners first?

Drain and vac test the system.

Confirming the ignition switch did the trick to fix HVAC issue. (also crappy feel of ignition turn)

I used the finger grip sockets from Craftsman #00943401000

I did have to use a bench gringer on a tiny standard screwdriver bit to shave it down to approx 3mm so it would fit into the tiny holes of the two screws. (after chipping off red paint w/ larger driver)

Thanks again. Seems that needs to be replaced.Audi part # 4A0 905 849 B cool, only $9 amazon prime.

Another note...Sometimes, when there are unexplainable electrical gremlins, it turns out to be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Your symptoms sound different, but keep that in mind nonetheless.

Regards, Maurice.

Crap. Not what I wanted to hear. My car started on its own around the same time. The ignition seems to be "gummed up" like it wants to always turn to the right. I have to force it to get key out. Anyway to clean that?

Will do! Any special instructions on how to get the HVAC out?

My HVAC attempts to move the fan speed up and down on its own and the Frost button doesn't function. No air comes out of the vents on any settings.

I think this started when I was holding the convertible button and tried to turn on the AC at same time. Ever since then its just going bonkers.

2002 Cabriolet.

Put that $17k + trade in and keep your eyes peeled on CarMax. Saw a Gt3 recently for roughly price of 02 trade-in + $20k.

Someone felt the need to key my car from front to end over the weekend. Really at a loss of what goes through someone's mind these days....

Should I try to get insurance to repair the sides or the car or is there better results in a scratch repair process? Very deep keying.