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chinesefood

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About chinesefood

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    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Henderson, NV
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Cabriolet, 2004 BMW 325i, 2008 FJ Cruiser
  • Future cars
    996 Turbo

Recent Profile Visitors

404 profile views
  1. You guys just saved me $$hundreds. I'll go w/ valet/non-remote head for now and spend the money on new tires since my one remote still works. I'll check Ebay for other sellers.
  2. My 996 only came with one set of keys and no owners manual. Sunset Porsche Parts gave me a rundown below for a set of keys: Option 1: remote head $107.59 + pre-cut blad $102.13 + programming $____ = Total: TBD. Option 2: non remote head $27.35 + pre-cut $102.13 = Total $129.48 Other than activating the car alarm, is there any other difference that I need to know when using the non-remote head option? Obviously, cheaper choice and easier to hot-wire if someone wants to drive it away, etc.... ------------SUNSET QOUTE BELOW--------------- Thank you for your inquiry with Sunset Porsche Parts. You have a few options for your key. The first choice to make is if you would like a remote key head ($107.59) or non-remote key head ($27.35). The next decision to make is if you would like a pre-cut key blade ($102.13) or a blank key blade ($24.44). Some things to keep in mind: You would need to have any of these options programmed by a Porsche dealership, so you want to check with your local dealership about programming fees and if they are able to cut a blank key blade for you. To order the pre-cut key blade, we would need you to fax or email us a copy of your driver’s license and registration. The addresses on these documents would need to match the address we are shipping the key to. These prices do not include shipping costs to get to you. Since we are a Porsche dealership, these are genuine factory Porsche parts.
  3. Day 3 & 4 update. I finally got the regulator assy out by unscrewing the lower nut using a makeshift extension for my 1/4 drive ratchet using 13mm socket. In order to fit the socket and to allow side movement, I bent the top fold of the sheet metal where the bolt is anchored. After I removed the #9 nut, had to set the top fold back in place again. From there, just slide the lower part of the regulator less than 1/2 inch towards the front and lift the entire regulator assembly. PIT A**! I'll upload more photos tomorrow.
  4. Here's more photos. I've replaced everything back for now until I find a way to pry lose the lower part of the window regulator, lower nut (#9) in the photo is playing hard ball...as it's been almost 11 years since orig window installed.
  5. Appreciate the TO instructions. I have to skip raising the rear window up (broken). Photos show top view, panel removed and the bottom nut that is driving me nuts. It should slide out. Just need muscle power and hope not to break anything.
  6. Day two on the removal and installation of pax rear window regulator on my MY01 Cab. Getting the rear window panel was easy. The inner panel (hard plastic holding the hydraulic piston/rod) was difficult to remove. I spent too much time getting this moved out of the way. The actual window regulator is much easier to remove if you can get to the bottom nut (#9) on the photo. There are three nuts securing regulator assy: two at the top and can easily remove using 10mm socket. The bottom one which is number 9 photo below is beyond reach. Looking at two options: 1) Drill an access hole on the inner sheet metal panel next to the seat belt assy; located directly behind the pax seat 2) Tap nut w/ a long 18-24 inch flat tip screwdriver Appreciate any suggestions...I'll post pics later.
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