therock88

You bet! It is a pretty simple device. If you want to give it a shot it just has a pair of wires that plug into the connector. May have just come undone...Otherwise perhaps a fuse? Or let it ride as you suggested.

DC

There was a lot of discussion and debate about this topic on 6speedonline.com. It appears to be more than a simple adding a switch. No one knew of any option to do so. I have it on my 997 TT and it changes shift mapping, throttle response, turbo boost for 10 seconds, delays PTM assistance, and PASM dampens shocks(like a roller skate). I am sure I missed something....But it seems like quite an involved system and not easily added.

Search on 6peedonline.com and you will find lots of discussion, with no really good answers.

DC

DC-Out of curiosity I looked up your profile. Nice 997. I think you did a great job on your DIY bumper removal. I don't have the patience to document my wok but am glad people like you make life easier for me. I also found a DIY for 996 bumper removal that is very helpful. My only decision now is do I put grille inserts in my bumper while I have it off. I like your idea as the Performance catalog wants 265 ducats for them. I think I will see how much trash is in there and then decide. It does look nice on yours and mine is Artic Silver like your wife's. My plastic insert is painted black as it looks like you also repainted it when you sprayed the grill. Time to start doing something, RS

Thanks...Yeah...Go for it. If you need the grill material you can get stainless aluminum or black on eBay at this store Click Here...Probably stainless on your silver car would look nice. It is not that difficult once you get into it. On my wife's, I got it all fastened, then

taped it all off and sprayed it with Arctic Silver to match and then heavy clear coat to help with chipping. Also painted the plastic trim to match as well. I like the look, but to each his own...

The 996 bumpers come off a lot easier than the 997 and 997 TT. You will likely find a bunch of junk on your radiators...Be sure to separate them too (they are doubled up) and clean between them...There are only about 2 extra screws to do so.

Good luck with it, and post a picture if you end up doing it. Best part is, I do not think I will have to do it for a loooong time as the grills should keep all the leaves etc out. I think the look better too...More finished than those big holes with

radiator fins showing :)

DC

Hi There....

Just an opinion here. Looking at the set up of the car, I do not think any potential buyers would be buying it as a classic, or pristine example of a 1990 (no offense to the car...Just does not look like a garage queen from the photos).

So if I were you, and trying to sell it, I would just say what you know...It is a 1990, and here are the pictures, and I have all the receipts since I owned it. Bid accordingly and I have no additional info about the history of 964's

and bodies etc.

Then just let it go....

Just a thought. Unless someone is trying to buy a collector car....Who cares! :)

Good luck..

DC

Hi,

If you are in a RHD car, it is on the passenger side in the large air opening. There is a small plastic ring that it snaps into. It does nothing but read the outside temp. so do not worry about it unless it

bothers you. I guess if you have any options that use outside temp to turn on (like the heated steering wheel on my Cayenne), it may affect that, but not performance.

Attached a diagram for you.

DC

Your probably right about the box of connectors. He said he would sell just the connector but I would have to get the number so he could order by that. They said they normally look at a picture of the loom and order off that. I have a couple of manuals and All-Data but none show the wiring loom sections. I'll tell you a stupid story about all this. When I had bought the 99 996 neither horn worked. I got the seller to replace the horn button and it worked.Sounding rather weak but never having heard a 911 horn I drove until told by a Porsche owner that one of my horns was out. Never hearing the correct horn and the sound was real low I decided that the high horn must be the culprit. Both manuals said it could be accessed through the sound hole below bumper by removing plug "which you can't see worth a ****"and removing 4mm nut off stud and pull through hole. You guessed it! I couldn't get the plug off to save my life and finally removed the horn through the hole wire attached. Had to pull plug apart with pliers breaking both sides and the horn.No bigge,the horn was bad any way. Two days later I tried to honk my horn and nothing happened. I had destroyed the wrong horn. Seems the low freq horn is 480hz and the high 540. Not much difference. Today I solved the problem by buying a new set of Italian replacement horns that are almost identical to the OEM but 10 db louder and they have spade connectors. I appreciate the help from this site from this thread and the video on how to remove your front bumper which I will need to do for the horns so much I became a contributer. Thanks for the help. Ride On

Sounds like a great solution! Good luck getting it all put back together so you can "Honk" at the slower drivers :)

DC

Any update? Did you change your KEY BATTERY? Any change in condition? Let us know what you come up with....

Thanks,

DC

Not sure exactly what part you need, but looks like you have a 1999 996 C2. I have attached the diagram with all of the horn related parts including the alarm. You should be able to pick the appropriate part from the diagram.

Hope this helps.....

DC

Thanks for the help "rock" and I hope I am uploading this correct but the part number I need is for the female connector that plugs into the "fanfare" horns #1and 2 on the diagram you posted. The dealer said that it shows on the loom and they order it that way by part #. Thanks again.

Sounds like that is going to be difficult to find. You mentioned "loom", which I think is the wiring harness...I have attached the passenger wiring harness for the front compartment, as I think that is where the horns are located. Not sure if this is going to help though. May end up trying a salvage yard and splicing?? Good luck.

DC

From what I could tell by the VIN from eBay is this:

It is a Carrera 2 Coupe

Engine Code : M64.01

Transmission Code: G50.03

Order Type: 964340

Four Options ordered:

M158 Blaupunkt RENO Radio SWR 46

M454 Automatic Speed Control

M494 Additional Amplifier

M650 Electrical Sliding Roof

Model Year is definitely 1990 from the VIN also. No reference that I can tell about wide or narrow body unless the "340" after the 964 in the order type means something?

Not sure if that helps? But that is all I can tell....

DC

Hi,

I have attached the part list with the "electronic regulator" highlighted for a 1979 911. May want to verify, but looks like what you may be referring to?

Hope that helps you out...

DC

What was done for a lighting wiring harness? Did either of you splice in or use an adapter for trailer lights?

Yes...I used a wiring harness. It has been a while, but as I recall I had more luck finding one for a VW Toureg (which worked perfectly).

Good luck.

DC

I just recently aquired a 99 Boxster from a friend and I'm having an interesting problem with the engine compartment fan. I was told the car always did this but when it was new I didn't remember it doing this.

Issue: Starting from cold the engine compartment fan comes on at high and stays on for ~4-5 minutes. The fan also seems to kick on and off randomly throughout stop and start driving. The weather is not hot and I'm not driving aggressively. No engine faults or warning lights and the engine temp never goes much above 180. If memory serves me correct the fan only came on when very hot and not at start-up.

Thoughts? I was thinking a bad temp sensor but maybe it is something else.

I am no expert on Boxsters especially...But I think it sounds like a temperature sensor as well. I had a similar issue with my wife's Cayenne and that solved the problem.

Good luck!

DC

thanks a lot i knew it was simple and dont have manual hence the question :)

This should help you..You access these from the lower left stalk. Good luck

DC

Not sure exactly what part you need, but looks like you have a 1999 996 C2. I have attached the diagram with all of the horn related parts including the alarm. You should be able to pick the appropriate part from the diagram.

Hope this helps.....

DC

I have an 04 Cab that has been a little neglected, it only has 8K miles and the battery is dead. I can start the car but my radio is tweaked, assuming I need a code but also the top will not cycle? Not sure what that is about but would love some direction if anyone has an idea.

The PO does not know if he EVER changed the oil, besides that, what other refreshes would you consider? Top off fuel, add any conditioner? I think just putting some miles on it would be an improvement.

TIA

Doug

I would consider the following items as a good start. Just my opinion if I bought it. I am sure some experts here will have other thoughts, so take it for what it is worth.

Batteries cause all sorts of crazy issues, and if you are not going to drive it regularly you absolutely need a battery maintainer (get the kind that cycles on and off). I would

get a fresh battery to start and would consider changing/checking the following just due to time more than mileage:

Change oil/filter 0W/40 Synthetic

Change Serpentine Belt (sitting a lot for 6 years...may dry out)

Change air filter and cabin/pollen filter

Flush Brake fluid completely and replace with new (should occur every two years)

Check tires for dry rot/cracking before you get any high speeds

Run some injector cleaner and a full tank of premium gas through it (drive it)

From there an overall thorough inspection and just watch for any odd behaviors and you should be golden....And a good thorough washing and cleaning will usually uncover

lots of otherwise missed potential issues/damage/etc.

That should be a good start anyway.....

DC

+1 No need to replace all 4. I typically go 2 for 1 replacements of rear to front. As indicated...optimal is to stay with same tire, but as long as the tire characteristics are the same you are fine, even if

the brand/style/type are not exact

DC

Great pictures and helpful tips. What is the jack supporting in the pictures? Thanks to everyone for the help.

Hi there...

I used a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel...Then filed the edges and then sanded the edges and it came out perfect. I spent a great deal of time with the bumper cover on the ground measuring,drawing

and test fitting before I cut it. Take your time and it will work out great!

I also attached a PDF with photos for a DIY. This is not my vehicle, but back when I did mine, I found these pictures and they were very helpful for me, so I combined in a PDF. They may not be in order...

Good luck!

DC

Jack is just holding up the bumper bar while it is removed. Not necessary.....Just one way to hold it as you remove the bolts so it doesn't drop on you.

Hi there...

I used a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel...Then filed the edges and then sanded the edges and it came out perfect. I spent a great deal of time with the bumper cover on the ground measuring,drawing

and test fitting before I cut it. Take your time and it will work out great!

I also attached a PDF with photos for a DIY. This is not my vehicle, but back when I did mine, I found these pictures and they were very helpful for me, so I combined in a PDF. They may not be in order...

Good luck!

DC

Hitch Install.pdf

And when the engine blows from the boost it wasn't designed for, you can install the 3.4. Jake Raby has already expressed how weak the connecting rods and other internals are...about the only thing up to snuff are the heads. I realize 4.5 psi is not that great, but you already have a fairly high compression ratio of 11:1 to deal with.

I imagine that if the Boxster engines were blowing up, the company would not be in business very long....And they have been. I would assume that the engineers and technicians at this company

take into account the engine specs....They do not just fit a pipe and turbo and wait for it to blow. In fact, these folks at TPC have developed The World's Fastest VTG 997Turbo. So they must know

something about forced induction and turbos?

Any modification has the potential to strain an engine.....So if you want to go with that concept....Buy the cars and leave them all stock.

HI,

I would go turbo over an engine upgrade. Check out TPC at this link TURBO BOXSTER. They have a long standing great reputation...And you can get about 100 whp boost at 4.5 psi on a 986.

Cost is about $7500 + install. I think a better solution than trying an engine swap. The torque on my 997 Turbo feels great. You will get a similar kick when your turbos spin up.

Just my 2 cents...Good luck!

DC

Very easy to do...You just use the stalk on the left and cycle through to set and then up and down to the desired function. Piece of cake!

DC

Hi all,

I have been having two problems with my 987 and I hope you guys may have some ideas on where to start diagnosing.

1. The car idles rough on inclines. It idles perfectly on level ground but when is stopped at either on up slope or down slope, the idling is not happy. I am stumped.

2. The ignition switch. It takes a few jiggling counterclockwise or taking out and putting in again for the car to fire up. Sometimes the steering wheel lock doesn't release but sometimes it does and it still doesn't fire up. After a few tries, then the 987 starts. The dealer said 987 ignition switch is different from 986 and said the 986 switch problem doesn't affect it. They kept saying change out the car battery first. However, I never have a slow crank issue but simply nothing is happening except electrics on when ignition misbehave. And they mention the ignition switch failure should throw a code inside computer which I kind of doubt....

I hope to get some ideas from fellow 987ers. thanks

W

HI...

Do not have any Boxsters. And I don't have an idea about #1. On #2, did they say to change the car battery or the Key battery? Sometimes if the key battery ( a small watch battery) gets weak, it can case starting problems due to the transponder setup that the car reads when the key is used. May be worth checking. Just a thought

DC

I have a 2002 c2. I just hit 51,000 miles today. When i started it up today, i got a cloud of white smoke out of the tailpipes. The car runs fine. There are no unusual noises, and no engine codes. I checked the oil and the coolant and both are fine. After a the engine warms up for a few minutes there is no smoke. Has anyone else encountered this? Any ideas what might be causing this?

HI There....

This is normal for many P cars. Usually more likely to happen after sitting for a while. Happens on 997's too. If you drive aggressively, let it idle for a few moments before turning off the engine and you will

be less likely to get the puff. Either way...Probably nothing to worry about.

Enjoy!

Yes, Just pop out the headlight (accessed from within the bonnet). No need to remove the bumper cover on your model. Also if more access is needed you can pop out the top section of the

wheel apron and have all you need. Good luck!

DC

Hi, yesterday evening, after returning from my local Porsche dealer for the 120,000km maintenance, I noticed some blue colored water under the car, passenger side, right under the headlight (Litronic). After inspection, I noticed that water very slowly drips out of the headlight washer jet. Very strange, especially that the car just left the Porsche dealer. I'll go back to let them inspect this, but in the meantime, any ideas of why/how ? Everything (headlight washer) seems to work fine. The car is a 2001 C4 coupe, manual transmission, LHD.

Thanks

Filip

Should be simple...The hose connects under the bumper cover to supply water to the H/L washer nozzles. Sounds like the clip is loose, or broken. Probably an easy fix. Doubt anything major. Not sure what the dealer di to your car, but they may have bumped it or disconnected it while doing the work to your car.

DC