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About therock88

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  • Gender

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Porsche 997 Turbo, Porsche 996 GT3, Porsche 955 Cayenne, 987 Boxster S, BMW X5
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    1990 Porsche 944S2 Cabriolet, 1996 Porsche 993 TT, 2001 BMW 325I, 1995 Nissan 240SX/SE, 1999 Porsche Boxster, 2000 Porsche 996 Cabrio, 2005 BMW X5

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  1. M8 and you do not have to go stainless, you can also use copper. Be careful removing them, and soak them very well before attempting it so you do not break off the studs. Good Luck. DC
  2. I think you have nothing to worry about. There are a few "ghost" codes that will always come up on the Durametric. Reset them, and they will be back next time. I would call them anomalies. I get them on all my P-cars all the time. A lot of them are to do with the PCM/Communications/MOST system. I would not be concerned. DC
  3. Added new Dallas Custom Steering Wheel....GT2RS Intercoolers....200 Cel Cats....Maxflo 3 Exhaust...Schnell Headers....and do88Sse Inlet ducts......Nice!!

  4. Actually the range 1 and 2 are legit. and no issue. Based on the engine having revolutions, it seems impossible that you can have 1 revolution in three categories at once? The engine would have to have a rev in one range and more to get to the next. I have seen similar on my tuned cars (Tiptronic...so no downshift)....And when I asked the expert tuners, they suggested it is an anomaly. At any rate, this report is nothing to be concerned with in my opinion. Good luck, DC
  5. 100% normal. Very sporadic, but normal. When you end your drive, you can let the car idle for a minute or so, then likely won't have smoke the next start. DC
  6. Factory OEM plug is bosch fr6-dpp332 Link is for example only.....Shop around. DC
  7. Posted on 6speed, so thought I would post here as well :) Hi Guys. Weather has been cold as crap in Illinois for a wile. We had a couple days recently where the temps got near or above freezing so I used the opportunity to finish up my Ramp/Lift project and clean out the garage from the other cars dropping snow terds on the floors! Some members in one of my previous posts seemed interested in this, so I took some pics and posted. I built the ramps with screws, pressure treated 2x4's, 5/8" OCX plywood, Industrial low pile carpet and lots of staples You can get the lifts at many places at reasonable prices. You can search Google for "mid rise scissor lift"...then ignore the thong/underwear pictures and go to the automotive section Center pieces are held together with door bolts and the whole assembly can be disassembled and moved when the car is up if needed. I also have two screws on each ramp portruding (the head end) from the bottom and a small 1/4" deep whole drilled in the concrete...This keeps the ramps in place when driving up and very simple solution! Capacity is 6000 lbs. Lifts the sports cars easily...have not tried the Cayenne or X5 SUVs yet, but suspect they will pop right up too! Enjoy. DC
  8. For a 996 the Microswitch is: 996 613 125 00 for L and 996 613 126 00 for R. That is the listing for 2003 996. Not sure which model you have, but should be same for all 996 and I would suspect 986 as well. Good luck.. DC
  9. Follow up to help others perhaps.. OK...I had time today so.... I went through every single fuse in all locations and they were all good. NOTHING Different I took the back end apart and got to the DME and disconnected every plug....waited and connected again. NOTHING Different...Still would not see the key. I jacked around with the key(s), switched ignition on and off, banged the steering wheel, banged the lock cyclinder...NOTHING. I decided to remove the seat, and pull out the immobilizer Part# 997.618.260.04 for those interested... I umplugged it and took it apart and just blew on it and cleaned it...put it back together and reconnected it....and BINGO...Car started right up...recognized the key and all was good!. I connected my Durametric Pro cable... read out all the faults, created a log file and cleaered everything...Also went through the coding feature and made certain all settings looked correct and changed a few...then reset the DME with the tool....Have started and stopped it a dozen times and no issues. When it warms up out, I may take it to the dealer and have a new module installed so my wife is not left stranded....I will let them do it, as I think they have to code the keys and I do not see that function in the Durametric coding?? Anyway....I wiped it down and put it away...Will likely start it more often now to hopefully avoid this drama again :) Thanks to all those that had suggestions...and even those that read it and wished they did :) I attached a couple of photos just for interest in what they look like etc.... Hope this helps! DC
  10. Usually over in the 997 Turbo Forums..But my wife's Boxster S has presented a strange issue I am hoping the experts on this forum can assist with.... So car is tucked away for winter, but I keep it on a maintainer in a warm garage and start it and move it every few weeks or so...Last time was about 3 weeks ago...started it, backed it out, let it run for a bit...revved it, pulled it in and parked and put the cover and maintainer back on. Went to start it today and NOTHING....When I put the key in the ignition I do not here the normal clicking and engagement of the dash. Tried the other key..NOTHING...changed key battery...NOTHING....Used key to pop frunk and trunk and worked fine...radio on, all lights on...opened top latch and windows rolled down partially as expected.... Hooked up my Durametric pro cable and since it does not know it is on...the cable is not live. Checked the fuses in the driver rear trunk of the car and the connections...all looked good. Checked all the fuses in the front panel...all look good. Disconnected battery and shorted Pos & neg for 10 minutes (Porsche mechanic taight me that....to discharge all the modules/memory)....Reconnected....NOTHING. Put a charger on with digital readout....says 13.2 voltss and 95%+ charge..Tried jumping it...NOTHING. IT IS DEAD??? I have read about the ignition barrell and/or immobilizer, but not sure where or how to test that, and not looking to start replacing parts guessing if possible. Also, I think the keys have to be recoded with PIWIS if I change the ignition switch... So any ideas will be appreciated! I am at a loss and cannot even diagnose the issue with no live OBDII...I also jiggled the key and tapped etc on the cyclinder but never recognized it...Also ensured the clutch switch under the dash was seemingly working??? Thanks in advance!
  11. Here is the information associated with the VIN you posted. Hope this helps you out. DC
  12. Not absolutely sure why it cannot be reset with Durametric? But in any case, disconnecting the battery on these newer cars does nothing. If you want to try and discharge the error memory system, you need to disconnect both + and - battery cables and clamp them together...Leave them in contact with each other for 5-10 minutes. This discharges any capacitance type memory modules that will otherwise retain the memory when the battery is disconnected. Will take 10-15 minutes, so worth a try. Good luck. DC
  13. If you change to 200 or even 100 cell cats, you will get less back pressure and increase horsepower as well...If you are just changing mufflers....Sound only :) Makes a much bigger difference on 997 Turbo. I noticed it immediately on mine...Spools up quicker....Still on a NA car, flowing more exhaust quicker will enhance your performance some... DC
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