therock88

Good...Here is another shot with the part numbers for 16 - 17.

DC

Here is the part diagram with numbers....Maybe this will help you?

DC

I used to live in Mandeville, and that sure sounds like Tom Benson behavior :)....The price is ridiculous, but pretty much in line with what some of the dealers charge unfortunately. They may charge up to $10 /qrt (or more) for the synthetic oil....Filter $$$, And over $100/hr labor...Hazardous disposal fees...yadyaydayada.

If I were you, I would start changing it myself. or find a good independent shop...Nothing magical with the oil change. I do it every 6 months or 3000 miles on both 996's, 997, and Cayenne.

As for the maintenance, most of the schedule says to "check" items. As long as they are good, no need to do anything else. If it does say to change them, go with the book!

Good luck...

DC

. porsche sound is not great to start with.....

That is the under statement of the decade. I have the "top of the line" in my 06 997 and it is barely tolerable

My 996's don't sound great (r didn't stock anyway). My 997 Turbo with Bose Surround and dual sub woofers sounds great to me! They definitely improved.

On the issue of this topic, from your description, it sounds like the idiot..umm, I mean person that installed your system may have installed some crossovers/bridges

or similar, and the sound is only passing at high volume? I think you may end up needing to run down the whole system to find where the culprit is...But should not be

too hard. You may need to pop out a speaker or two to see it any crossovers or other devices are located. Also, Porsche has some interesting amp configurations

(like six way splitting), and standard amps usually are 4 way, and that may be your issue....? Just some things to try.

Good luck!

DC

This is absolutely normal. Nothing to worry about. Have seen it in all of my Porsches. Enjoy your car.

Hello all. While not at all new to Porsches, i have never personally owned one. im looking to buy a 996 coup (6-speed only) and ive spent the better part of 3 hours on google and various forums looking for threads about buying a used 996....with not so much luck.

The info i need most is the basic stuff, like what to look out for, common issues, what questions to ask sellers, major service intervals,etc. ANY info you you guys could provide me with would be awesome!!!

id really like to buy from a fellow car enthusiast (lightly modified if possible...exhaust lowered a little, etc)....

im also having a hard time just finding forum classifieds to browse through....

I just want to do this right the first time...

Thanks for looking and any help!!!!

Try 6speedonline.com. They typically have cars for sale from Porsche enthusiasts. As far as things to look for, they are numerous and covered very thoroughly to exhaustion on this site...Just do a search.

The main one with 996 is obviously the rear main seal and intermediate shaft.

DC

Excellent pictures!!!

Paul

Thanks Paul. It was a challenge, but came out OK I think.

DC

First one at 31......Then 33....then 34...then 36.....You get the idea :) Addictive! Currently have four in the garage......And 3 kids in the house. Thinking of getting rid of a kid or two so I can add another Porsche B)

In the contributing members section here there are some owners manuals and option codes but is secure. Not exactly what you need perhaps but good info..

Also if you look up the vehicles in edmunds.com or autotrader.com, they typically have a lot of feature/options/specs info.

Good luck,

DC

+1 to change

While you are in there...Change the coils! I would definitely do it if I were you.

DC

Ratdog33!, in the near future, I see your next post being titled, "Where Is The Best Place To Purchase an OEM Clutch".

Have fun & be safe.

I love it! Too funny....Or I was thinking " Does anyone know what that clunking sound in my transmission is?". :D

My honest opinion are the pros and subjective and assumed at best. The cons are just the cost. Doesn't hurt anything though. Here are some good facts I have collected:

Most tires are filled with compressed air, which when dry consists of about 78 percent nitrogen, 21 percent oxygen, and 1 percent other gases by volume. Water vapor (humidity) can make up as much as 5 percent of the volume of air under worst-case conditions. Filling your tires with nitrogen mainly does two things: it eliminates moisture, and it replaces skinny oxygen molecules with fat nitrogen molecules, reducing the rate at which compressed gas diffuses through porous tire walls. That means, theoretically at least, that a tire filled with nitrogen retains optimal pressure longer, leading to more uniform tire wear and better gas mileage. The commonly quoted figure is that tires inflated to 32 psi get 3 percent better mileage than at 24 psi.

Another claim I've seen is that since nitrogen is slightly lighter than air, you'll save weight and get better performance. However, we're talking about a weight difference of less than 4 percent of the gas in the tire - in other words, a difference of less than an ounce for most vehicles. A possibly more realistic benefit is that nitrogen is largely inert chemically at low (i.e., normal) temperatures, so it won't attack the rubber in your tires like oxygen does. Oxygen attack is something both the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and Ford Research have studied, and can be a problem for tires used for a long time or in rough conditions. If the weight (1 oz) is an issue, try replacing the Porsche battery with a non OEM. :) Those Moll stock batteries must weight 80 lbs. , and the aftermarket ones with more CCA etc seem to weigh 1/2 as much.

Just some info. Ultimately nitrogen is less flammable (if you are worried about your tires bursting into flames), and I think around $5-10 per tire for the fill....So if it feels better to you fill them up!

Hope this is helpful...and I am sure there are experts out there that know more than me.

DC

I would start by checking the appropriate fuse(s). Simple enough to check. It would seem that if it is not that, it may be in the adjustment switch itself, since neither works.

Good luck.

DC

Should have a large square white label on the inside of the bonnet lid. When you open the bonnet it is usually right towards the front. It has option codes and color code. You can try

www.painscratch.com for touch up paint also. You give them the color code and VIN and they mix to match. I am guessing yours is "Speed Yellow" So look for 12H code to verify.

DC

I would say that typically they would NOT run all the time. Something like that can be caused by a faulty temperature sensor. It could be other issues, but that would be my thought. The sensors aren't much, but on some cars are a little hard to get to.

May want to check error codes. If a sensor is bad, it would likely send an error code

Good luck

DC

Yep...Unlike old muscle cars, the engineering is outstanding on the P Cars. The engine is mounted right over the LARGE rear tires and the center of gravity is very low for the motor..By design. Also, if you have the traction control, it intentionally does not allow it. Then add a 4-wheel (all wheel) drive option on the Turbo or C4 (s)...and it becomes even harder to break the tires loos....Which is OK, because chirping tires aren't getting you forward! I will say that even with the 305 19's and all wheel drive, when I put the Sport Chrono button on and floor my 997 TT (tiptronic), it will in fact break loose and make you dizzy :)

Enjoy the speed!

DC

Your Cayenne should do it if you just turn the mirror adjustment knob when you park. Mine does. While that is not totally "automatic", it only requires that you turn the knob when you turn the key off to park.

Seems simple enough?

Not aware of any that just know you are parked and retract? Maybe someone else does.

DC

Hi,

Not sure specifically about the hole locations, and not sure what you currently have in that console space as there are options?

I have attached a diagram of the front console of your model for you with part numbers etc. that should help you. I would suggest

searching on eBay as they regularly have the storage compartments available for very little $$.

Also, I do not have a Boxster, but there are many experts on this site that I am sure will know more than I.

Good luck.

DC

Might try LA Dismantlers. They have a website and have a huge inventory of salvage parts. Not sure what the prices are, or if they will have that part, but worth a try.

Good luck!

DC

I have noticed the same rattle/crackling on my 997 Turbo. I can actually just push on the bottom a little and it stops. Under warranty too, but seems like every time the dealer fixes something they damage something else :) I was thinking of popping it off and just insulating it witha little felt? Sounds like the plastic is rubbing together to me.....Agree with you...the top is all covered in stitched

leather...even the chrono clock...then plastic on the bottom ? :)

...........But on that 10% of the time they are driven to the shop, they sure are fun! :)

If they both lit up it could be mistaken for having the brakes on all the time...So they just illuminate 1 side ..............

My understanding is that is the way it is supposed to work. Same thing happens on my Cayenne too. I imagine it is a security feature, so if someone gets the door unlocked somehow and has no key the alarm starts sounding to prevent theft.

DC

Update. This is the oddest thing I have ever heard! The Porsche dealer found a fuse on row C that controls the PCM missing? Once plugged in everything works perfectly. The odd thing is that I did not even open the panel until after the messages started....Also cannot find the fuse that was missing....So there was one fuse block on row C with no fuse in it and no fuse anywhere in the car...

Now that is a gremlin! At least the car is ready to drive again! Just very odd.

The dealer asked if I could have sucked it out while I was cleaning/vacuuming the car.... but how could it suck through a closed fuse panel? :)

Interesting to say the least....And I am sure they think I am nuts or lying?