therock88

I am looking at purchasing a 996 C2 that is #9 brought to the US in 1999. The person is asking $54,000 for this car. Can anyone offer any guidance on this price? I have spoke to Auction houses and there is very limited information on the first 996 models sold in the US or where to price them. Chrisities has not auctioned any that are first models. Please note I do know that the $54K price is high for this model but I am looking at it as a collector (that will be driven).

Agree with Dharn55....There is no novelty in when it came to the US. #9 just means there were MANY more behind it. There are a ton on the market and what you are really buying is a 1999 996. When you are ready to sell it, someone will likely be willing to pay for a 1999 996 and nothing else. But cars are worth whatever the buyer thinks they are worth....So if you find some special joy in owning a 1999 that was one of the first of many in the US...That would be your decision ultimately. I would not expect to later sell it for any special amount though as it will be difficult or impossible.

Good luck with your decision....

And to Dharn's point....If you said you would drive it, and you want to spend $54K...A 996 Turbo would be MUCH more fun to drive.

DC

Can I tow my BoxsterS Tiptronic behind my motorhome (4 wheels down/ not trailered)? Any thoughts on this?

I am thinking that would be covered in your owner's manual under the towing section. Usually is......and gives some guidance about what you can and cannot do. I just checked in my 997 Turbo, and 996 manuals with Tiptronic and

it suggests to only flatbed them. Do not tow unless all four wheels are off of the ground. So I am thinking it would NOT be a good idea...

DC

Hello everyone,

I have 2000 996 C2 Tip with 181,000 miles on it ..

the brake wear light has been on for a while and i thought i need new brakes in the front

so i just change the pads, but the light (Brake Wear) stays on..

is the dealer or a porsche mechanic the only one that can turn that light off ??

If you did not do so, you probably need to change the wear sensors. One on each side. And I think on a 2000 you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. That should do it. Unless you changed the front brakes, and it is actually the rear brake sensors that are triggering the light?

Good luck.

DC

RESOLVED: It was the Voltage Regulator.

Replaced the regulator this morning. Cold start the charging system is stable at 14.4v. After driving a variety of roads, highway, city, and stop/go, the charging voltage is stable at 13.9v. :)

The regulator was about $50 shipped. I bought it from alternatorparts.com. Link to the one I ordered: http://store.alterna...regulator.aspx. The original part number was F 00M 145 225 (something I had trouble finding when searching for just the regulator.)

Thanks to Renntech for being such a great resource!

Glad you got it all sorted out!

DC

~24,000 miles on my '01 C4 and now on the third set of tires in an attempt to get "quietness". Tires seem fine until about 8,000, to 10,000 miles when the tire noise becomes too intrusive. Thinking of using those spray cans of undercoat in the wheelwells and liners to try and quiet things down. Anyone tried this..?

Any thoughts otherwise...?

These big tires tend to make a lot of noise at that mileage because the tread wears off and it is like having two big flat pieces of rubber rolling down the road. I do not think soundproofing the inner wheel aprons is going to have much impact on that....But maybe someone knows differently. I usually feel lucky if I even get 8-10K from a set of tires :)

Good luck.

DC

I just got my first Porsche! White 2008 997 S w/ factory black wheels and only 20K miles!!

I got it from a non-Porsche dealership and was wondering if Porsche Dealers/Service Advisors offer "training" on all of the various options on the car?

For example, I know it has Sport Chrono but not sure if it's Plus or not...and would love to know how to work all of those functions since there's no manual for that. Also, not sure what version of PCM the car has...

If you want to PM me your VIN I can tell you what all the options are that came on it. Not sure of all of the manuals on this site, but consider becoming a contibuting member and you will have access to lots of additional materials and manuals.

DC

I have used Sea Foam in both oil and gas in several of my cars...both my 996's, my 997 turbo, and my Cayenne......All run great. Agreed that if you put the additive in the oil, you should only run it a short time, then change oil and filter. The stuff works great! It is not for using in every tank or oil change though....Just used occasionally to clean it out and safe for ANY engine. I have obviously gotten to know my Porsche mechanic very well with all of the cars I have, and he (unofficially) told me that he felt this stuff was great and he uses it in many cars......Service adviser in an unrelated conversation said the same thing.

Use whatever you are comfortable with....

DC

Thanks for the reply,

Ya, stainless requires equipment I don't have. On the other hand my cars a 99 so not exactly a late model. I'm being lazy I guess though, I could just stick a magnet on it...but It still could be some weird alloy.

Regards, PK

99 would still be stainless.

DC

Hello,

I want to wire in another pre-cat O2 sensor (wide band) for tuning. The Pipe is in such good condition I am wondering if it's something exotic...(stainless). Can I weld a new bung to it with a traditional weld or braze or, will require some exotic weld.

Regard, PK

My understanding is that most, if not all, later model Porsche exhaust components are made of stainless steel as you suspect. I am no metallurgist nor do I know much about welding, but I would think you would need to weld a stainless bead, or you would get rust and or bi-metal corrosion.

I am sure someone on this site will know more about it than I do, but I would not risk a regular weld on a stainless steel component.

Good luck!

DC

Hi there,

I am looking to install a Dension 500 on my 2005 C2 997.1. I want to run the AUX cable to my center console having it come out next to the plug socket. I'd like to take it out to be sure I don't damage anything behind it.

I tried to pry it and it's very hard so I am afraid I will start to scar the plastic if I keep prying.

Can someone help me gain these instructions?

or walk me thorugh the trick to get this piece out?

Greatly appreciated it.

Thanks,

Not sure this is exactly what you need, but may have some helpful info. Click Here

Good luck!

DC

About a year ago I was driving around and my radio cut-out. This caused me to scan the instrument panel and I noticed my voltmeter was reading ~12V. I shut-off the engine at checked the battery with a multimeter and saw it sitting above 12v. I don't remember the exact reading now, but it seemed normal to me. When I started the car it jumped back up to almost 14v and stabilized there.

About 6 months ago this problem become more frequent. Intermittently I would notice the voltage dropping. It wasn't every time I drove the car, just on occasion.

About 3 months ago the problem became apparent any time I was idling at a long stop light. I could watch the voltage gauge visibly drop to 12.

At this point, after 15 minutes or so the drop happens every time. However, when I restart the engine the voltage will jump back up to almost 14v for 1-2 minutes before slowly dropping back down to 12v. If the Radio and A/C are both on, it will drop below 12v. After shutting off the engine, the battery's voltage will be around 12.5V.

My assumption is that the alternator stops charging and the car is running off whatever is left in the cells. I assume if I left the car idling, the battery would be depleted and the engine would stall. However, even after driving around for 30 minutes and then sitting in the garage idling for 15 minutes, the car never dies. (How long could the engine idle on just the battery?)

I took the car to Autozone, thinking they had test apparatus that was more elaborate than just a voltmeter. (Granted I think their tool can do things like properly load a battery, but really the information it gave wasn't much more than a voltmeter.) Their machine claims the charging system is perfectly fine, even though you can clearly watch the voltage drop 10mV / sec.

Why is the charging voltage jumping up to almost 14v when the car first starts and then dropping? Why does it stay close to 14v when the car is cold but drops faster as the car warms up? In other words, if I let the car sit over night, I see the same behavior as when I immediately swap the battery with a fully charged battery. This was another test I did with Autozone's help.

I assume the alternator needs to be replaced, I'm just curious why it is acting this way (and if it indicates another problem.)

At a quick glance of this long post, I would think the issue is with your voltage regulator. That will typically cause these odd fluctuations. It will charge, then drop, then charge...etc. Seems very random and haphazard, but it is likely the voltage regulator. That is how they act when they are faulty.....Just my opinion. I would check that out...

Good luck.

DC

I get HPDE insurance through Lockton for every DE day and it's getting to be too expensive. I just read my entire GEICO auto policy and it says nothing in the exclusions about not covering closed circuit events or surfaces designed for competitive events or driver education. Can any of you insurance experts point me in the direction were it says DE days are excluded. Or can someone share personal experience?

Thanks,

Hi There,

I have no experience with GEICO, nor do I have a copy of their declaration pages. I will say that in general you have first party coverage while driving on public roads and there is language in there somewhere that will exclude any type of competitive event or use on non-public roadways not used for normal transportation....It may be buried, but I assure you that there is language that will make any claim that arises out of any event other than "normal" driving a contestable issue. It will likely be excluded from all coverages also (liability, comprehensive, & collision)....It will likely be listed under exclusions relating to use on "public roads" and not on roadways designed for racing or any other pre-arranged events.

Your best bet is to ask your agent....Or in GEICO's case you will have to call a 1-800 number.

So my bet is that you will NOT be covered by your regular auto policy.

DC

Agree with Loren...If you can find a wheel restoration place. In lieu of that I would be pretty certain that if you clean and scuff the surface very well(get off all loose debris)....And then use one of the two part epoxy mixtures it won't come off. I have used some of these two part epoxy mixtures to fix some amazing pieces and had great luck. They even use that stuff to fix golf clubs and you know what kind of abuse they can take. Just a thought if you don't find an official word on the subject.

Gorilla Glue makes an awesome blend...Holds about anything. The key is a clean rough surface.

Good luck!

DC

My Porsche Cayenne has a warning light informing me that the tailgate is open. The interior light that would normally come on when the door is open stays on permanently although the tailgate is closed. When I lock the car the doors lock but the tailgate remains unlocked. After a few minutes the tailgate locks which I assume is due to automatic locking after a period of time. Can anybody please help me with my problem.

I think I used the wrong term......As I looked at my Porsche documentation for my Cayenne it was stated as an "Open Campaign" by my dealer. The dealer should be able to use your VIN and tell you if there are any open campaigns on your Cayenne. If they have any, they will do the repairs for you at no cost. I had some issues with mine while it was out of warranty and the repairs were all done at no charge....So I guess you could ask

your dealer to check on that for you.

Good luck!

DC

No.......It works on Tip and Manual as well. The link gives a good overview, but is on Porsche's site and only covers the latest models, which are PDK or Manual. Other than the PDK

changes & launch control the other enhancements would apply to other cars depending on equipment..

DC

What would it do for a normally aspirated '06-'07 C2S with a manual trans?

Well....I am no expert but if you have no PDK or Tptronic, shift mapping won't have any affect with a manual, if you get sport chrono plus with the PASM, it drops suspension 10mm and monitors the wheels to ensure contact with the road (very rough ride if not on a track), and probably the only real noticeable difference with your set up would be the throttle response that makes it feel a little quicker. There are a lot of threads on that on 6speedonline.com

DC

My Porsche Cayenne has a warning light informing me that the tailgate is open. The interior light that would normally come on when the door is open stays on permanently although the tailgate is closed. When I lock the car the doors lock but the tailgate remains unlocked. After a few minutes the tailgate locks which I assume is due to automatic locking after a period of time. Can anybody please help me with my problem.

Can't tell what model you have because there are no Cayenne's listed in your profile? Some of the Cayenne models had various issues with the rear liftgate and there have been service bulletins to repair them. Warranty or not, if there is a service bulletin Porsche will fix it. Sounds like that is what you may have, but not certain.

Good luck

DC

Once again my 2002 /911 996 battery let me down. Why does this seem to happen so often to Porsches ? I have a 97 BMW M-3 , a 2003 Ford Escape, and a 2005 Dodge Dakota, all of those have batteries that are several years old,

and all those vehicles ALWAYS start without any problem. Several years ago,my friend got rid of his 2001 911 simply because of this issue alone. Someone told me it's because "the electronics in the 911 are running all the time " is

this true ? So again it was back to the store for a new battery. Do I have to keep the Porsche battery tender hooked up all the time on this vehicle ? Also , even if I do , once I leave my garage ,and then park it somewhere, I worry that

it will let me down again,as this has also occurred on numerous occasions, what's a guy to do ? HELP !!!!!

Yes...Porsches will kill the battery while sitting at the dealer. Mine (dealer) has told me that. The easiest solution is to buy a high CCA quality aftermarket battery (I have had no luck with the Porsche batteries). When you are not using the car for a while at home you should keep it on a trickle / maintenance charger to keep it strong. Then when you do need to leave it elsewhere you should have no issues. If you do not trickle charge it, then park and leave it, it is likely weak....That is about the best you can do for battery life.

Another option would be to install one of the cutoff switches that is placed inline, right near the battery poles, then you could basically "break the link" when not in use and the battery would not drain.....Only issue there is the memory would get lost including the radio code(unless it is 987/997).

Good luck.

DC

According to the link, it looks to me like its features are good only for a PDK equipped car, unless it includes Sport Mode mapping.

No.......It works on Tip and Manual as well. The link gives a good overview, but is on Porsche's site and only covers the latest models, which are PDK or Manual. Other than the PDK

changes & launch control the other enhancements would apply to other cars depending on equipment..

DC

I recently picked up an 02 gt2 and while detailing the car, noticed a dollar coin sized crease on the rear bumper.... anyone have any luck with pdr or will the bumper need to be filled and repainted, thanks. Scott

PDR doesn't work well on the poly compounds. However, a qualified repair facility that uses appropriate plastic welding / compounds, PAP (plastic adhesion promoter, the correct flexible primer, and quality base and clear

coat paints can repair it to factory look and performance. I do not think you need to get a new bumper......Just find out which Body Shop your local Porsche dealer uses. To repair and refinish a bumper cover should

not be terribly expensive. Depending on the location they may be able to blend as well.

You may also try carefully using a heat gun (or blow dryer on hot) to see what comes out.........But be careful not to get the paint over 200 degrees or it will fail (bubble, peel, etc.). Here is a link if you want to try it: Click Here

Good luck!

DC

I did a search and couldn't find any info on what type of coolant to use on a 06' 997 3.6. I know Porsche coolant is crazy $$. The level in my car is right at min so I just need to top it off. Is there a Prestone or other name brand that is capatible with what came in the car? Is the orange prestone DEX-COOL good to use? Thanks for any info.

Hi,

It has been covered on this site quite a bit. Try this link : Click Here

Also, if you just need to top off a little, you may just try some distilled water if it is not very low. You can get that at the grocery store...Not Tap Water.....Distilled water.

Good luck.

DC

And is it it worthwhile?

Here is a link to what it is: Click Here

Everyone has an opinion I am sure. I have the Sport Chrono on my 997 Turbo and makes a hell of a difference when engaged. Very noticeable change....As if the car is not a beast as it is, when in sport chrono

it is like riding a roller coaster in fast motion. I understand they now make them as add on kits as well. Not sure what the experience difference will be in a non-turbo (the turbo version gets a 10 second overboost in chrono mode!).....changes many other things as well (PASM dampened, shift mapping, throttle response, PSM settings etc..)

DC

hi therock88, sorry but i cant seem to find threads on repair of that hinge, need furthermore assistance sir if u may? thanks

Click Here: Link

Hi there...

On Q1 - Do a search on this site as there have been articles/discussions on that topic and repair/replace options.

On Q2/3 I have attached two images with the diagrams and part numbers for the rear decklid and spoilers.

Good luck.

DC

HI to everyone, as i browse the common defects of boxster s on the net, i saw some horror stories of their car burning after seing the check engine light on and seing smoke on the air vent (right portion) . my qustion is are these stories true? are they based on reports? any reason why these may happen? hope someone can explain why and what can cause them and also to prevent them from happening. inputs pls. appreciate it

Agree with Pedro...Very early days a few idiots would flick their burning cigarettes out of the window and would get sucked into the air vents and thus a fire. Not a concern, and I have heard of nothing like that since 97 days. Of course I am sure some folks somewhere may have had other fires, but probably due to something goofy that they did rather than issues with the cars.

Good luck!

DC

Hi,

It is right on the intake. Do a search on this site as this topic has been covered many, many times. No need to duplicate..........

Good luck.

DC