therock88

Hi,

I have a 997 Turbo Coupe. When I open the doors, the floor lights on both sides do come on. May be different with the cabriolet?

DC

On your brakes....It is probably still OK to drive, just be careful.

You introduced air into the system when you pushed the calipers back to make room for the new pads. That is why it is a must to bleed always afterward. No big deal to bleed,

and should still stop fine...Again, just be careful.

On fluids I have included info on a recommended fluid for VW/Audi/Porsche as well as specs.. Just make sure what you get meets the specs:

TE BLUE Vw Brake Fluid - (Mfg. In Germany)

* Meets DOT 4 brake fluid specifications.

* Dry boiling point of 536° F and a wet boiling point of 396° F.

Hi There,

Not sure if this is the part you are referring to, but this is the Tiptronic Selector Switch and is on the transmission. Hope this helps. Included a diagram for you. Part number is 986 325 612 01 for a 99 Boxster.

I would assume this would indicate the position (gear) of the selector and if it sensed it was not in Park/Neutral would not allow starter to turn over?

Also included a diagram of the Tiptronic shifter components in case thathelps?

Good luck!

DC

Hi,

You should bleed down your brakes at the bleed valves. If all was working reat prior to your brake pad replacement, the only thing you likely did was to introduce air bubbles

into the fluid lines. That is what makes them spongy or mushy as you suggested. Use a power bleeder or a helper to pump them and start with the farthest caliper from the

reservoir first. You want to move all the fluid through until it is clear and free of bubbles. Also as a standard maintenance procedure Porsche recommends flushing and replacing

the old fluid every two years anyway. Brake fluid is a desiccant (absorbs moisture) so you want to replace it regularly.

Bleeding should be an easy job for you. And I would bet money that if you bleed your brakes properly, you will not have the mushy feeling. It is the air bubbles in the fluid compressing.

Good luck! And hope that helps.

DC

Could be a charging system fault. Water gets into the alternator and temporarily stops it from charging which in turns sets off all sorts of warnings. Let it dry out and all should be well again. You might have codes recorded in various control modules showing low voltages that won't interfere with any operations.

Did you use a high pressure system and wash the engine off?

Thanks for your thoughts. I did spray the car, but I never spray the engine...With the decklid on the TT water does get in there a bit. Not too much though, and I wipe it down afterward.

I tried again today and still have every warning, and when I try to drive the Tiptronic is in emergency run mode so all that turbo power goes about 30 mph :) The speedo does not work, nor the fuel guage or pretty much anything but the PCM and the Tach. Won't go in Sport Chrono mode and won't shift!

I have an OBD software package that works on my 996's and Cayenne but it will not work on here and I have no Durmetric (too poor from buying all the cars) so I cannoy clear the codes..

I just Called Porsche NA and they are going to flatbed to the dealer just to be sure I do not cause any additional damage. I was hoping to avoid that, but...Oh well. I will use a little of the service I paid so well for.

Thanks again...I will update when I find out the issue.

DC

HI...

I have a crazy condition on my 07 997 TT. I washed the car and moved it into the 3rd bay. It ran fine earlier and when I parked it. After about an hour I started it again and

the display gives me just about every signal possible...Tiptronic Emrgency run, PTM failure, System Failure, PASM Failure, Brake...etc. It starts and runs fine, but the tiptronic indicator flashes from M to D and the error messages keep cycling and suggest to go to a dealer. This is odd, as nothing happened to it...I just moved it in my garage?

I disconnected the battery for a while, but that no longer works apparently as nothing cleared on the display.

Any idea of what this could be? Is it safe to drive, if I need to get to a dealer about 45 miles away?

Thanks!

That is great! I hope that is it, as it will be a quick repair and you will not have to wait for Christmas for a new tranny to arrive from Germany!

I attached a picture of what the linkage on an 02 Boxster looks like for your reference.

DC

Yes, if the linkage is bad it could drive perfect forward, but you could be unable to move the forks in the appropriate manner to engage the reverse gear....But it could be more serious. Update when you find out.

Good luck.

DC

Hi,

I am not certain, but this may be one of those deals where dome prying with a spatula is involved, or complete removal of the visor? I have the same vehicle, but thankfully no issue with the light.

I have attached a PDF file that covers just about every light in a Cayenne. Did not see this one , but maybe others would give you an idea of how this one may come out? It is 149 pages long so use

search in Adobe to help..Or just flip through it. Be patient as it is about 2 MB!

Good luck!

DC

LIGHTS.pdf

On a darker note...If the transmission was rebuilt, could be some internal gears or fork etc....But does not sound like that is it...So let's assume linkage :)

My thought is the linkage was connected improperly. Does not sound like you are having any other issues, noises, etc. If the linkage is wrong, or snagged, you would not be able to get it into reverse.

I think that is it? Would be a pretty simple repair if so.

Good luck!

DC

OK...Follow up on issue. Dealer has had it for over a week. Mechanic says it does not do it at all in the shop...So given it is 10 degrees and a -0 wind chill

with ice, snow and other nasty weather conditions....The dealers shop is nice and warm...And given the tires are summer tires...>We are going to go with the tires just jumping due to the extreme cold, hard turns, hard rubber on summer tires due to cold. If anything else manifests itself I will update again. So we will call this the Ackerman effect issue.

Good news is....If it turns out to be something else...It is still under warranty! :)

Thanks!

DC

Based on your conditions I would bet worn motor mounts too. If it was an alignment issue you would only feel a pull depending on camber/caster/ or toe issue....And if it was a balance issue you would get a shake most likely...more pronounced in the 50-60 mph range, but not related to acceleration. Also with worn suspension bushings, you would most likely get a shake, or clunk all the time.

So I agree it is likely motor mounts.

Good luck!

DC

Hi there any common things i can check on my 996 air con(climate), could just need topping up but worrried and hopping its not serious....many thanks

Also looking for some heater vents either side of the dash in black....complete units or just the fins.... many thanks

Hi There,

On your first question you may just need a recharge. It is a good idea to periodically have the system evacuated (vacuum) and recharged including an oil charge. This is just

good preventive maintenance and will lengthen the life of your system. Most any auto shop can do that. As part of the process, they will likely use the pressure gauges to ensure there

are no leaks. That should resolve your problem and concern...Or at least determine if you do in fact have a leak.

Second, you should be able to find the A/C vents by searching eBay "996 vents" or "996 A/C" etc. They are on the site all the time with varying prices. You can also contact LA Dismantlers

as they have a huge Porsche salvage yard and a website at: LA Dismantlers

Good luck

DC

It does look like a sensor of some sort? And the first picture is just jumping power from other fuses. Just a guess that it may have been some hands free phone device (looks like a microphone), or it could be a remote radar detector? Those are the two most likely....Just unplug that fuse and see if you notice anything different.

Good luck!

DC

I think you are going to indicate what kind of car Model year etc. you are asking about before anyone can even comment on your request.....

Agree with Loren....On my last several 996's I don't think I ever got that many miles on the rear tires, so you are doing good with 11K IMO...

My last one had 27000 miles and I was on my 4th set of tires, and I tried a variety from Pirelli to Continental to Bridgestone

Might want to do a search on this site, as I think someone covered the process for bleeding these down etc.

Example

DC

Not sure what the L&N Engineering parts are. To be clear, my information is based on OEM Porsche parts. Total is for all parts and includes:

900-067-369-09 screws

999-073-091-01 screws

997-101-212-01 Shaft Sealing Ring

996-104-215-54 Cyl Head Cup Seals

900-123-147-30 Seal Ring

900-380-019-02 Hex Nuts

999-385-004-01 Torx screws

900-385-275-09 Torx screws

996-105-017-02 Shaft Base (most expensive part at $62.75)

Total@ OEM Cost = $130.56

Have no info on L&N.

Don't know anything relating to your second question, but as far as changing the Rear Main Seal and Intermediate Shaft Seal while you are doing a clutch, I would say absolutely! The labor for the R&R of the Engine and transmission are most of the cost. The approximate cost of the needed upgrade (which is several redesigns at this point) is about $125.00. There are updated pan screws, seals, and rings that with the latest version seem to be pretty solid. After about 6 tries it appears that they finally got it right!

So for ~$125 additional parts and just minor add'l labor, I would definitely replace.

Good luck!

DC

So...To Loren's point, if you have a 5% deviation allowed the following would apply:

You have current total diameter of 18" + (2 X (.40X 225MM) = 18" + (2 X (.40 X 8.858") = 25.0864" Diameter with your existing set up.

You can add 5% which would allow 26.34072". So your suggested set up with 45 ratio tires would put you at 25.9722", so you should be OK assuming they fit in your wheel

opening OK.

Hope that helps!

DC

Thanks for the input. I think you are referring to the Ackerman effect that is caused by two different arcs when you turn. Inside arc smaller than outside and the two try to travel at different speeds....In short, a geometry issue. I have heard of that as well and you may be right in most cases. This also used to happen on my Cayenne, and after new tires it stopped, even in the cold weather here in Illinois. Mine sounded a bit more mechanical and when I spoke to the Porsche Dealer today they advised they had parts ordered (though I had them checking several items). I was thinking my popping was a joint, but with new tires who knows?

Will update when I pick up my car around this weekend.

DC

Hi There,

I have attached 2 images for you. One is from the PET Porsche Parts Catalog and one from a Porsche parts website.

Please look at the diagrams and also go to the the link provided below where you can look up your parts and purchase online. They usually have really good prices and ship quickly.

You will need to include your VIN and they can ensure you get the right part.

Porsche Parts

Good Luck

DC

I am bringing it in to the dealer tomorrow and will post the results. Mine seems to be on hard turns back or forwards, and seems to be coming from the right side.

DC

Hi there,

I have found a discrepancy between what I have on my official documentation, and what I am told from the VIN. The VIN decoded seems to indicate that the car is a 2006, however it says on my documentation that the car's first date of registration was 29/10/2005.

If someone can shed some light as to why this might be different then I would be interested.

I have the durametric package so that I can see the OBD stuff and the date of most of the electrical modules like the ECU etc appears to be sometime in 2005, but these might just be software versions, or when the components were made/built before being assembled in the car, however they have my correct VIN on them, so maybe they are flashed or whatever once in the car. Again, if anyone has any ideas, I would be interested!

Thanks!

Sam

997 CS2 Year: TBC :)

Hi

From the VIN you provided your car is Carrera Coupe S. 997-1 Model Year 2006. Engine Code M97.01 3.8 Liter built in 2005 and Trans. Code A97.01. I attached a pdf with this information and all of the original option codes as ordered from Porsche for your VIN.

Hope this helps.

DC

tmp.pdf