therock88

Hi there....

The ! on the dash could be anything from you need to re-fuel to you need a new engine. You need to have the diagnosstic codes read out with PIWIS or Durmetric to see what it actually is. I would not just buy that it is the brakes.....If they know that by reading the codes, ask them to show you the readout.

Good luck.

DC

So I have read every thread regarding the Dectane/ Depo 997.2 style LED taillight replacements for the 997.1. It is apparent that the LED's do not give off enough (or any) heat to keep the moisture / condensation / fog out of the clear section in the middle.I started with leaving the unit sealed...and it fogged a little.....I read about taking off the two clear plastic vent caps and fabric to allow them to breathe....I have done that. I try running with them ON and with them OFF just on when braking etc.....Still get fog. It is about 20 - 30 degrees F here, but sucks to spend that much on lights and have no way to keep them from fogging.Some say when they removed the plugs it cleared up...I have not been so lucky. Only driven a handful of times for short distances though...Maybe it needs more time??So the lights are near the engine compartment, which produces plenty of "free" heat. And I am starting to think like a mad scientist now....Would appreciate thoughts on if I just need to wait a bit with the caps off, or if I should start experimenting? And would appreciate thoughts on if my idea would create any other potential issues (it is not fully baked yet)I am thinking of possibly trying to get some tubing the size of the vent holes on the light and trying to see if I can connect one end to the lights and the other somehow in the engine compartment to have heat "pumped" in, in lieu of incandescent bulbs?? Maybe a dumb idea... I am just trying to think of a way to get some heat in there to dry the moisture!???

These are on my 997 Turbo BTW (and look great...except for the occasional fog :))Thoughts, jokes, ideas, solutions, sympathy, etc...AppreciatedTHANKS!!!PS Also posted on 6Speed & Rennlist

Not sure here, but just based on your story, I do not think it has anything to do with your oil change. I am guessing when you changed the shifter you have an issue there. If it is detecting/thinking it is in gear etc, it will likely keep it from starting. I would start by going through all you touched there and ensuring neutral switch and all other connections are replaced properly.

At least that is where I would start. There are others on here that likely know a lot more about your specific problem than I do.

Good luck!

DC

Very Nice! I really like your car...I had one of those as well a while back and it was great...Still air cooled, and a blast to try and change the oil :) I actually bought my Turbo (and wife's last BMW X5) from Isringhausen (Luke Isringhausen to be specific).

Great delaership....Peoria is just closer to me and always treat me well....Thanks for sharing...Car looks great....

You are correct! And I know better...Just had a lapse of judgement and a short ride :) And it is putting down even more HP etc now with

the Softronic tune and other stuff :) Thanks for the comments....I will have to post up some new pics with the various additions like front DRL LED's and Rear Dectane LED lights...All white LED everywhere else...Sure changes the look!

Take care!

Donnie

PS..Mechanic is at Autohaus Porsche of Peoria...Chad. Great guy, and mod friendly!

Follow up for anyone checking....My dealer mechanic who is a Gold Master Certified Porsche mechanic suggested the combination of cold, slipping (cold) tires and traction control may be what I heard...No leaks or anything and no sounds at any speed accept when it was WOT and all four wheels slipping ..? I will likely get the fluid/filter and both differntial oil changed when it warms up just to be safe....

Hi All....

Haven't posted in a while, but was hoping someone may have some insight/thoughts on a new issue I just encountered.

My car has a Softronic tune, and runs great! I have not had it out much due to the lovely Illinois winter....The other day

I took it out for lunch...No snow on the ground but some residual salt dust from the last freeze.

So I probably did not let the car warm up enought (shame on me)....I drove a short distance and I punched it ( I missed that :))...When the turbos's spooled up the car broke loose all wheels like usual (Tiptronic BTW)...As the wheels started spinning/slipping I noticed a not so good sound (sounded like the rear)...Sounded like popping metal...like something in

the drive train was slipping (or even breaking??). Never heard it before?? When I accelerate very hard (but not enough

to spin the wheels.....No noise at all...Drive normal or even hard...no noise....Only if I bury the pedal and it breaks looks I hear a few pops/knocks. No other time??

Notes: Car was not completely warm, temperature was in the 30's, salt dust on road, Tiptronic transmission.

I called my dealer and left a message for my mechanic to see if he has any thoughts...waiting to hear back. Service guy

said it may be due to it being cold (weather and car??)

Would love to hear any thoughts on the subject....Without scaring me too bad....I have no warranty any longer :)

Thanks

There are a couple of fuses in the panel that will cause this too. Make sure they are all pushed in all the way and have good contact! If certain ones are even loose the car will go nuts!

Good luck!

Just a thought here.....Easy solution. Since you just had it done at a dealer...Bring it back to them and let them figure it out? Also, if anyone has ever tried to change the plugs you will appreciate that you cannot check to see if they "are nice and tight" unless you have about 8 hours to kill and still will only be able to reach about 3 of them...

I would just take it back to the dealer....Good luck to you!

I have seen a few write-ups elsewhere that indicate these are total hoaxes. I agree with Loren on the possibility to boost that much on a NA with a chip. I doubt you get any boost. Some articles have actually looked at the technology and found the connections they use only power the chip and do nothing for the car performance. Hope that helps for what it is worth.

Something else to consider.....For a little more than that kind of horsepower on a 997 TT I spent ~$2500 for a DME tune. Doubtful anything for $69 on a NA car could really do much. Even the 10-20 HP claims seem unlikely. Tunes for 996/997S in that range are still over $1000, and that is under optimal condition...

I guess if you feel like trying it, you only risk $69.

Good luck, and maybe other have more experience with this?

DC

Thanks for the info. Good to know. I'll just relax on it and mention it to the mechanic next time. No fault codes or idiot lights, so I'm assuming that I'm OK here.

As soon as I figure out how to post a picture, I'll put one up. This is an awesome and advanced site, but I just haven't figured out how to post a picture? Clues? And I was a programmer for many years :-).

I'll have to drag my real camera out soon once I get it detailed...

Cheers!

-Mike

Yes...There are lots of posts about this on the site. Totally normal. If you look in your owner's manual you will also see that the oil consumprion is normal. The smoke happens occasionally on my 997 TT and is normal also. One way to minimize this is to drive the last few miles or minutes easy before parking.....Or when you pull in to the garage, let it run (idle) for a minute or two to run cool oil through the turbos and clean out any lying in the cyclinders...This will not totally prevent it from ever happening, but makes it happen less. Also....When you park them and do not drive them daily since these are boxer engines....gravity works against you!

Congrats and enjoy!

DC

Hi again,

Went to a local Porsche mechanic and picked up 2 A/C control units (one for me and one for a friend) - these were the only 2 good ones left. Like new, $350 each (new dealer price is $800 here, and I can only get 10% off that). Had mine installed ($45 at the dealer), and it works 100%, so my interior is looking sweet. Now I want to take the old one apart, strip the 2 offending buttons, and repaint them. Does anyone have a step-by-step (hopefully with pics) guide on how to do this? I had read somewhere that oven cleaner is the best thing to strip them (but messy). Anyone have any recommendation for repainting? They don't have to be rubberized. I was told that airplane model enamel is good, but was thinking about spray-on primer, and then spray paint from the local hardware store...Last resort is shipping to Sticky No More in the US.

Hi again,

Went to a local Porsche mechanic and picked up 2 A/C control units (one for me and one for a friend) - these were the only 2 good ones left. Like new, $350 each (new dealer price is $800 here, and I can only get 10% off that). Had mine installed ($45 at the dealer), and it works 100%, so my interior is looking sweet. Now I want to take the old one apart, strip the 2 offending buttons, and repaint them. Does anyone have a step-by-step (hopefully with pics) guide on how to do this? I had read somewhere that oven cleaner is the best thing to strip them (but messy). Anyone have any recommendation for repainting? They don't have to be rubberized. I was told that airplane model enamel is good, but was thinking about spray-on primer, and then spray paint from the local hardware store...Last resort is shipping to Sticky No More in the US.

If you are going to paint these and want it to adhere, I suggest going to a paint supply store and buying a "Plastic Adhesion Promoter". You apply two coats, then primer, then paint, and it will really hold up well.

Good luck...

DC

There are several flashes available which would be better than the GT2 map and get you significantly more power.

Agreed! If you are going to flash it, go for some real HP! There are a number of them available. I have Softronic 93 Octane tune for my 997 TT and love it!

Good luck....

DC

DC - Yeah.. this is the base model. At the time, the remote was an option. Physical key is needed to lock and unlock the driver's door.

I think this may require a trip to the dealer. I'm afraid that I'll screw something up with the limited space constraints I would have.

I think it may be possible for an experienced Porsche "slim jimmer" to pop the lock release, then open the door..?

I wonder what the dealer would do to fix this..?

Yep...Dealer will likely pop the door open and then replace or fix the latch. I would expect it to be a few hours labor....My Dealer is $138/hr. May just have the arm stuck or fallen off on the inside, so may not need many parts?

Good luck!

DC

Thanks for the replies:

- The car has a brand new battery. Car starts fine.

- This is a base model 1998 986 - No remote control. Key only.

- The key fit in the lock, turns, and deactivates the central locking system. Yet when pulling the exterior or interior handle, both fail to open the door. The microswitch apparently works as the window drops.

Is it possible to remove the door panel with the door shut?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance..

OK....So your key does not have a remote button to unlock the car....It is strictly a physical manual key (with a transponder to disarm the central locking system). I was not aware they had keys that did not actually unlock the car by remote. Regardless...It appears the mechanism is unlocked but the door just won't open, so sounds like you do have a mechanical failure in the door.

It will be very difficult due to space constraints to get the door panel off without opening it, but I THINK you can do it. The seat will be in the way as you pop it out, but if you can get to the inner door, you should be able to spring the latch and open it for more work...

Here is a link to the DIY on this site for removing a 996 Door panel...Your should be identical or very close:

Good luck!

DC

Sorry to hear about your bad luck! Sounds like the stuff that usually happens to me! :) On thought:

Go to an auto part store and buy a small battery that plugs into your cigarette lighter for the purpose of starting cars when batteries are dead. Leave it plugged in for about 20 minutes and it gives you enough charge to open your hood latch.

You may also try this: (A youtube video link).

Good luck!

DC

Have you tried starting the car with the key? Also, since you put the car away, have you verified the battery is actually good? I would check to verify the battery is actually strong/good. And try to jump the car if necessary to ensure the key works. The second thing I would check is that the battery in the key is not dead. If you have no luck with step 1, pop the key open and replace the watch battery, or try the second key if you have it?

One of those should be your issue. If not, you may need to get the key re-programmed to the car. Good luck!

DC

The reason a high compression flat engine uses more oil is due to the fact that when the engine is stopped all the oiI that was lubricating the cylinders doesn't drain back into the oil sump because the cylinders are placed flat ( horizotal and not vertical) in the engine. As a result, this residual oil has a tendency to seep past the piston rings into the combustion chamber when thhe engine is at rest, where, at start up, it is burned off. Engines left to sit for longer periods sometimes exhibit the puff of smoke many Porsche owners experience at start up which is common and normal for these engines. The smoke is the residual oil being burned off. Every other type of engine has its cylinders either vertical, as in a straight four or six cylinder , or at an angle that allows all the oil coating the cylinders to drain back into the engine sump when the engine is turned off. Daily drivers that are driven longer distances tend to get more miles per quart of oil because consumption when the engine is warmed up and running is similar to any other straight or " V " type engines. Run it for longer periods of time between start ups and you'll use less oil per mile. While there are other issue that can contribute to excessive oil consumption in this or any other type of engine the flat engine design is a key contributor in a Porsche engine.

I guess Subaru, BMW, Honda, Lycoming, Continental, Ferrai, Lancia, Citroen, et al use(used) different physics?

The original question was about the oil usage and the concern of whether or not it was normal. The answer is Yes. It is normal. The responders here gave the original poster good information

explaining why and how it is normal.

Your posts seem to be more about your opinion of how Porsche designs cars, what oil usage should be etc.. You are certainly entitled to your opinion,

but you are not correct and do not appear to be well versed on cars.

As for physics (and sarcasm)...Porsche has a different design so "Different" physics apply....Which is why I can add a quart of oil every 1000 miles to my

997 Turbo, and blow away any of the cars you have listed above :) To my knowledge, none of the cars you listed use a flat opposed boxer design engine, so would

not have the same residual oil in the cylinder to deal with.

Don't get so frustrated.....It is just oil...not blood :)

DC

1 quart per 1000 km sounds excessive, I would say that is a problem. I see several manufacturers claiming that 1 quart per 1000 miles is "normal" when their cars typically use 1 quart per 5,000 miles. I suspect they are simply trying to avoid warranty work for those outliers that consume oil.

Comparing the oil consumption of a 300 HP, 7000 RPM engine designed to last 60,000 miles to an 18,000 RPM V8 designed to last 300-400 miles is unreasonable in my opinion.

Well...Here you are...It is normal.....Right from the Owner's Manual for 997's, And it is the same for 996 as well:

UPDATE and Thoughts?

I flashed the car back to stock (again). Cleared all errors/codes. Disconnected battery for a while (Just for good measure :)). And took for a drive. No CEL.

Before I flashed back to stock, I used Durametric to monitor actual values with the car running....Looked at Actual Camshaft deviation on Bank 1 and 2 to compare....At Idle 1 was at about -1.29 and bank 2 stayed at -2.548. The actual angle for Bank 2 went from 0.9 to -15.9 and Bank 1 went from 0.8 to -127.9. Put back to Stock flash and ran again and also put the laptop on the floor and drove the car while logging the values and got the following: Bank 1 0.7 to -41.7 and Bank 2 was about the same 0.7 to -41.2. The deviation was Bank 1 1.17 and Bank 2 stayed at 2.548 both steady.

So I am uncertain if these values look normal or?? I am going to flash back to the tuned file after driving a while in stock and see what happens?

DC

And if you remove the flash does it go away and stay away? (i.e. back to stock)

Sorry, but you need to rule out the flash being the issue. Wouldn't be the first time - and most of these guys update their programs when they find a problem

Yes Lauren...I thought about that and I have flashed back to stock/original and still get it now. This is the strange thing. I had no CEL at all (other than a MAF early 2011 that I corrected and never came back). I flashed it and shortly after got the error...Then flashed back an dthought it was OK andthe error came back with stock. Baffles me. My only thought is the flash pushed it enough to uncover an underlying issue....I guess I am OK with that, just trying to figure how to get it corrected now. I was told the plugs can cause problems with high power flashes and with 28000 pretty close to needing plugs anyway on the Turbo. I am even Ok with replacing the Valve Actuators (official name)...VarioCam solenoids....I just hope that solves it. I am just hopeful it is not mechanical as that will be big $$$....And seems odd since I never had the issue prior. Fingers crossed.

If I can figure out how to get the Durametric to test the item I will do so....

Thanks agaiin...I will keep plugging until I figure it out, or bite the bullet and go to the dealership...

DC

No other codes?

I would erase it and see if it comes back - especially if the egine seems to run well.

Thanks Lauren.....I got these codes the first time the CEL came on and I cleared them. The time varies as to when they come back, but they always do, unfortunately At least the first one..Interestingly the first code says something about the throttle, but once the same code came up and was about the Cam?

"A code P0021 refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's PCM (powertrain control module, also called an ECM). That consists of a few different components but the P0021 DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is above a set limit (over-advanced), the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The "A" camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft. A P0021 engine code is basically the same as a P0011 code, except this is for Bank 2, not Bank 1"

Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 7.8.1 Turbo Current Fault Codes

P0021:

Throttle actuator control motor circuit/open

Implausible signal

Airbag - POSIP Current Fault Codes C152:

Communication PSM control unit (drive)

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

Porsche Access System - PAS Current Fault Codes 004:

Terminal 50

Value below lower limit value

Seat Memory Current Fault Codes 102:

CAN single-wire operation "comfort"

Implausible signal

Obviously I am confused. :) The CEL came on after the car was flashed....Not immediately, but after about four

drives. Then I flashed back to original, and still get it? I seem to have noticed if I clear codes and drive very slow the next time, I get no lights....Then

when I start it again, I may get one instantly or after a bit.....Weird....

Thanks again for your input/knowledge. I am trying to avaoid a trip to the dealer as they quoted me about $900 just for the labor on the plugs! It looks very difficult, but I think if I take my time and I am careful , I should be OK....

Oh Forgot...On the engine running....It seems to run fine even with the CEL on.....If you drive slow/regular. What I notice is that if I get in it , it just has a hesitation and then when the boost kicks in after a bit (longer than before) it will spin all 4 wheels and rockets

with no issues. I was getting a bit worried though when I read about it being timing related and the valves possibly kissing the pistons etc.....Google is great, but also caused stress ....

P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible

Possible cause of fault

- Dirt in oil circuit

- Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty

- Oil pressure too low

- Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster

- Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty

I would start with these befoe any parts are replaced.

Thanks Lauren...I also read the Durametric codes are sometimes transposed....So sometimes it says something about the throttle position and signal implausible...Makes it more confusing!

Hi there.

This is absolutely normal oil consumption for these cars. Just the way they are made. If you take a look in your manual, you will see that they may cosume something like a quart or liter every 1000 Km's or something like that...Havent looked lately. But drive and enjoy! It also depends on how hard you drive them. I put a quart in my Turbo pretty regularly...I do drive "aggressively" and have many tickets to prove it :)

Take care.

DC

Was hoping someone on the site could help me with a little information....

Recently got a code on Durametric P0021 and was told that it is most likely the Variocam solenoid/actuator. I need to change my plugs anyway to cooler iridium plugs due to a recent DME flash so thought I would test/change these as well, while I am going to the trouble and they appear to be right near the plugs. PArt number I found was 996 105 301 04 and there is one on each side.

I just got a Flash as indicated and now the lCEL goes off everytime I drive the car. Always the same code. Even with the original file flashed back it goes off now.....I was told one thing I needed was different plugs and that IK22 Denso Iridium would ba a cooler range and better plugs and would help with the extra boost etc....

Questions I would love some help with:

- Any way to test these with Durametric? I have read that there is, but cannot seem to figure it out? Have a 2n Gen basic cable and Durametric 5 & 6 software. Laptop is XP SP3 with 2 GB RAM and Dual Core 1.4 GHZ Pentium 4 (can't seem to get actual values to work either??)

- Assuming I am fortunate enough to actually get to the part and the plugs, can I simply remove the old one and plug the new on in and fasten, or is there anything special? Appears to just slip in like a spark plug?

Thanks for any information on how to use the Durametric to test....Replacement....Diagnosis or anything else!

DC