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therock88

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Posts posted by therock88

  1. Probably going to need to do as suggested. Will need to likely add an amp some crossover/filters and then put some new matched speakers in the appropriate areas of the car. You can search this site and find a host of articles/posts on this topic and likely some good suggested components.

    The factory systems are integrated and designed to match the acoustics of the cars, so when you start changing pieces, it disrupts that design....Best to just come up with a new total design and build from there. Since you have the head unit replaced.....Just need the amp and speaker set up...

    Good luck!

    DC

  2. The aftermarket headers are 2.25, what is the stock headers opening size? If i got this correct the oem 2" in/out so that means .5" difference, is there much of a different in sound? I am not worried about horsepower gains cause i am supercharging my car . I have the aftermarket pse mod, so there is good sound but just want to know if this increase the sound much more? One more question I have headers from my 1997 boxster 2.5L , I am wondering if I can use them for my 2002 996 c2?

    Sounds like you got the opening sizes about right. The horsepower gain from additional outflow could be slight. The sound change would likely be negligible if at all. Does not appear you can use headers for a 2.5L Boxster engine, on a 3.4L 996 engine. Totally different engines and configuration of exhaust. Part numbers and diagrams attached.

    Good luck.

    DC

    post-7561-0-54385500-1313752281_thumb.gi

    post-7561-0-98687700-1313752290_thumb.gi

  3. I have a used engine (bought off eBay and advertised as from a '99) with serial number M96/01AT66X66526.

    What information can be derived from this serial number?

    Thanks in advance for what is usually a very high quality response to a request for help or information!

    HI..

    M96/01 Tell you it is 1998 or 1999

    The 66X denotes 1999 where M96/01 66W would be a 1998

    The rest is just s sequence number range 00501>60000

    That is about it from the engine number.

    Hope that helps..

    DC

  4. hi, is there a thread here somewhere on the procedure to remove the 3 front grilles? seems all start with the grills already out and i need to know how and where those secret little clips or tabs that need to be pushed or moved or whatever are, thanks in advance. kk

    To get the grill(s) out, you have to remove the front bumper cover. Once removed (not very difficult to do)...Then there are just plastic compression tabs on the underside that allow you to pull the grills off from the back. They are easy to break do be careful.

    Attached is a diagram of what comes off to remove the bumper.

    Good luck.

    DC

    post-7561-0-93237700-1310919346_thumb.gi

    • Upvote 1
  5. I have a 1999 Carrera 4 and need to replace my rear tires. I'm currently running Continental Contisport Contact 2's, 225-40-18 in front and 285-30-18 in the rear. Since my front tires are at about 50% and the Contisport Contact 2's are discontinued the Tire Rack recommended the Extreme Contact DW tire. The 285-30-18 tire has been on back order for several months now but the 285-35-18 is available. Is this a good choice for me or should I wait longer? I am at the wear bars on the insides of my rear tires and fear that I'm going to get into trouble on a wet day.

    Thanks for your time, Jerry

    I would not suggest what you indicated above. Changing the ratio you suggested creates about a 1" diameter difference. Try this link here CLICK HERE for your tires. I have used them and many times they beat Tirerack, and ship quickly.

    Good luck!

    DC

  6. does anyone know how to remove a dent in the rear bumper of a 2004,4s???

    The bumper covers are a plastic composite. Depending on the severity and if the paint is damaged, you can likely get a small dent out with some mild heat and hand work it out. Be careful not to over heat

    as you may damage the paint and/or bumper cover. If the paint is damaged, or if you have torn the cover, you will likely want to get it repaired professionally. Tears can be repaired with plastic welding or various

    epoxy mixes and completely resolved by professionals.

    Good luck.

    DC

  7. So I finally replaced my wireless rearview cam with the wired version run through the car - it simply provides a clearer picture without interferance near wireless networks. In my zest to run the wire from the driver's backup light into the cabin, I was not as mindful as I should have been with removing the soundproofing necessary to reach the grommet. BTW, the grommet is way back there so be aware it takes some effort to get there.

    Anyway, that was last weekend and now I am trying to put the soundproofing back to its original state. Does anyone have a diagram of the positiong of the sound proofing in the rear of the car? I have searched the forum and read through several TSBs without success. Thanks in advance -

    Jeremy

    Here is a larger diagram for you, if the previous response is the right area.

    Good luck!

    DC

    Soundproof.pdf

  8. The ding is really not a concern for me, this car if purchased will become more of a track toy then show car. As for the R&I and RMS for approx. $2k then that is not bad news due to the cheap purchase price of the car. So I do feel better about this car. I have since done the carfax and it comes back very clean, showing regular dealer maintenance up to 2009.

    So once my wife is onboard and accepts the speed yellow colour (not our favourite) I think i might just have my first boxster in the driveway.

    If anyone else has anything to add it would be much appreciated.

    Thank you

    Great...The reference to the RMS etc, is to simply give an idea of labor for removal etc. The parts for the job are only a little over $100...The rest is labor :)

    Good luck with the wife.

    DC

  9. Hello, newbie here to this forum. I recently started looking to purchase a Boxster, and found one that is priced way to good to walk away from.

    The good...it is a '02 Boxster S and it runs really well, no unusual noises, suspension is tight, clutch feels like it is new and everything works on the car. No leaks underneath and I did the oil cap test to test the oil seperator and it seems to be good, car idles smoothly, etc. Mileage is 110,000 miles and it is for sale for over $6k under market value. It was recently imported to Canada from Texas.

    The bad... one small ding on rear quarter panel, air bag light is on and the worse item, it would seem that the second gear syncro is gone. You can't shift first to second without grinding but you can downshift from third to second without issues. Seller says it is the syncro and he has a quote to fix it for $500...I didn't think there was any repairs on a Porsche for that low an amount. <_< Last item, no history on the car...I plan on doing a car fax today just to get an idea on the history.

    So should I just run, or could this still be a good purchse. Keeping in mind that this car is selling for considerably less then market value and I am able to almost all repairs myself.

    On another note, anyone know what option codes 239, 502 and 584 are?

    Thank you in advance for any advice

    Don't see any of those codes listed except M584 which is a storage box. I was looking under the option codes for 02 Boxster in PET 7. No 239, or 584 that I can find? Lots of subjective questions that you will likely need to decide. I doubt the tranny can be repaired for $500 though. To R&I the tranny and engine to replace RMS on a 996 is + $2000. Also not certain how serviceable the components are. Porsche is pretty particular about transmission repairs...

    A ding on a quarter panel would be about $100-200 if it has no scratch and can use PDR...Traditional repair would require blending and refinishing and will quickly get over $2K.,,,,Or you could just leave it at $0 :)

    Good luck.

    DC

  10. Hi my 996tt 2001 80,000 on the clock had a aircon re-charge as it was no longer blowing cold, and it only lasted for a week.

    Is there a normal leak problem with a car this age?

    Where can I start to check?

    Thanks!!

    Nothing common, but may want to put some leak detector dye in the charge, or have a shop run a leak detector around the hoses, evaporator, etc. to see if you can determine. Start with the hoses. If you can get some gauges on it,

    that would help too. Do not want to over charge it. I would have a shop pull a vacuum, evacuate and recharge with leak dye, and the go from there...Likely a hose, or evaporator? Possibly expansion valve??

    Good luck.

    DC

    • Upvote 1
  11. Hi all,

    Just a quick question, I am looking for a good polish that will give the car a decent shine and hide some of the surface scratches that appear from daily use.

    I don't want to go crazy and hunt down the sacred sweat of a beetle only found in the amazon rainforests, I just want a standard polish that I can pick up locally and it will give me good results. Eg Turtlewax or something like that?

    So, what's reasonably priced, reasonable available and perfect for a 997-1 MY06?

    Thanks in advance!

    Sam

    I think the best one you will find is Meguiars Tech Wax 2.0. It is easy to put on and remove, shed's water like crazy, and the shine is amazing. It also has virtually no messy dust or haze. Great stuff! I have a Basalt Black Metallic 997 Turbo, and after I wax it with this stuff, you can see a yard stick deep in the shine. After that, I recommend Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer as a quick wipe on and off great shine between waxes. Awesome suff.

    Good Luck,

    DC

  12. Looking for thoughts on an extended warranty on a 2007 S. The OEM warranty ends in a week so I am considering purchasing a 6 year 60k for $5200. The vehicle has been very reliable with only a couple of warranty repairs, none were mechanical. I feel that the most likely stuff to go is the convertible top push rods, sensors, switches and in rare cases something mechanical which makes it tough to justify the warranty cost. But if something mechanical does go it will be expensive. This is a summer fun car with less than 25k miles. Thoughts???

    In the end it is about your comfort level. You just never know, so how risk averse are you? For $5200, I would take a risk, and just bank the $5200 personally. I am guessing that over the next 35K you will not need $5200 in repairs (items actually covered) although they add up quickly and you just never know...So it comes down to personal preference and willingness to take any risk with it? The nature of insurance :) Good luck with your decision!

    Also..if you decide to go with a warranty, I would at least shop as that seems very high to me?

    DC

  13. Hi everyone,

    I'm sure this post comes around every few months but i'm a new owner (03 c4s) . The spare key blinks (the light works) but will not unlock/lock the car. Before opening it and changing the battery i figured i ask......any ideas or tips?

    I have heard it may not be the batter on the key it self if the light still is working but im not sure....hoping this wont be a pricey fix (but from the looks of this nothing in owning a porsche is cheap, not complaining though)

    Would appreciate the help.

    _Lifelong Porsche dreamer.....porsche owner for only a month (it was worth the wait)

    2003 Lapis Blue Carrera 4 S

    If your primary key works fine, then the locking mechanism on the car is likely OK. That leaves you with two potential issues. The battery (which is fairly easy to change (in the key...not the car), or the key needs to be programmed/re-programmed to the car....Has to be done by the dealer. Given the two options, I would start with the inexpensive battery first(just a big watch battery). If this is a 2003, the battery in the key could be 8 years old.....

    Good luck,

    DC

  14. Just purchased a 2006 987S with 38,000 miles through dealer. No records with the car. How do I find out the previous history so I know what need to be serviced and can provide a complete history to the next owner (if there is one)? All I know is it was a California car and I have the VIN.

    As Loren points out, that may be the only way to get records. If you look in the Owner's Manual binder, there is a service record tracking manual that the dealer/facility uses to sign off and document what services are performed etc. So you should check there and you may find most of what you need. I have been able to have the dealer print off the previous records for me before, however they can only print the work they (that dealer) has done.

    Good luck,

    DC

  15. I have a rather strange issue with my Turbo. The car will not get to full boost. I get about 2/3 bar and I hear a strange "rattle" like litttle rocks in a can) and the boost backs off. On the freeway yesterday I was really trying to analyse the noise. Yesterday it sounded more like a "hissing" sound. Like a vacuum leak. I ran the car for error codes and there were none.

    It I have checked all of the connections visible in the engine bay. The "Y" pipe connections and the vacuum hoses on the plenum. Everything seems in order.

    I have a friend that has owned a lot of turbocharged cars and he said it could be that the car is not getting enough fuel (running lean) and that "rattle" sound is the result. He said I may have clogged injectors and to change my fuel filter. I thought this unlikely.

    My tech (who makes house calls with tools God Bless him) is coming over this weekend to take a look. On the phone he suggested that it might be an intercooler hose that has come loose.

    Has anyone had a similar experience with their Turbo?

    Thanks !

    Oh by the way the car has the GIAC flash, Larger plenum and throttle body, GT2 spark plugs and a Techart exhaust....

    No idea...Seems like you would hear a boost hose come loose?...Would love to hear what you find out though..

    Good luck!

    DC

  16. Need help sourcing a headlight part for 2004 w/Bi-Xenons.

    Hard to explain but here goes and I will try and post a picture up later.

    Basically I have one of my headlights flickering and seems to be that the problem is the plastic "guide bar" that you use to guide the headlights back into thier channel has developed a crack. This crack is causing the light assembly to flex just enough to cause the connector to lose contact and therefor the intermediate flicker when I hit a bump or flex the light assembly manually. So, I pulled the headlight and tried to repair with epoxy which worked for a while but looks like gotten worse. The part does look to be user serviceable as there are a few screws that attatch it to the headlight assembly and it does not appear to be molded as part of the headlight assembly and therefore should be easy to repair. However, the problem is I cannot find the part number so I can order new ones and of course local dealer is of NO HELP and cannot seem to find a part description online.

    I found obscure reference to this part G99663111600 on AutoAtlanta but I cannot really tell if correct and does not indicate left or right can anyone confirm or help?

    Loren has provided you with the info. I have attached a parts diagram and parts list page for you. It is #13 in the picture and list. Hope it helps.

    Good luck.

    DC

    hl.pdf

  17. Hi

    I'd like to remove the Carrera badge and replace with a '911' badge. What is the best way to remove the original badge and what measurements do I need to replace it with the '911' badge?

    Cheers Guys :thankyou:

    The original letters come off pretty easily with a hair dryer, or heat gun on low...Just be careful not to overheat. Afterward you can clean off with alcohol to prepare for new emblem. Just a tip that may help removing.

    Good luck

    DC

    • Upvote 1
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