therock88

Hi Gents,

Wonder if anyone can assist.

I am soon going to be changing over my stock exhaust system for a Techart. So just wonder if anyone can assist with correct part numbers etc I will require for swapping over, ie New Gaskets, nuts / studs, Lambda sensors ( if required )

From what I have read so far the majority of parts will be past redemption for re-use , thats if you are able to remove them at all due to corrosion etc. from the stock system ( will have been on car since 2003 )

Any assistance will be appreciated

Thanks

Hi,

Not sure I have the answers for you, but would suggest with these questions if you list the year (obviously 2003?), model, etc. it is always helpful for those who may know. Also may help if you are more specific in your question. You say exhaust change....Is that the mufflers, cats, headers, all of the above?

My sense is that if you order a Techart complete system/kit, it would have all of the components needed (i.e. gaskets, sensors, etc.)

Good luck.

DC

Without removing the plugs for a visual inspection, you can't tell.

In my opinion, you do not need to replace your plugs at 22,000 miles no matter how old your

Porsche is. Plugs last for a very long time if the car has been maintained. 60,000 + miles.

Go to the DIY (Do it yourself) maintenance tutorials and check out what it takes to do your plugs when you

decide after a few thousand more miles. Bottom line... at 22,000 miles and the car idles, accelerates fine and doesn't "hick-up"... leave 'em alone.

+ 1 Do not think the plugs need to be changed with that mileage.

Realizing that it could be troublesome & create air in the line (s) problems ,I decided to take my 2002 911/996 C2 into the dealer for a coolant change, where they use the "special" vacuum machine etc. (Orlando Porsche $258.00 & Tax "ouch" ,however Brumos Porsche in Jacksonville wanted over $400 !!! )

Anyhow , when I asked the service manager, what type of water they would be mixing the genuine Porsche coolant (he also said it's the same exact type used in VW & Audi ,and it's red, is that correct also ? )

He said "Just plain tap water" . Now from what I have read all over the internet ,you DO NOT use regular tap water, your suppose to use distilled,or purified. One Porsche site said use "deonized" water "only" and NOT distilled or purified ??? What's up with all this confusion ? I asked him if I could bring in my own bottled distilled water for the mechanic to use and he said ok,but it makes no difference. Anyone know the story on this coolant /water type dilemma , I'm taking the 911 in this Friday for the coolant flush,please let me know, I'm totally confused now Is it regular, deonized, purified , or distilled ? And is that correct about VW and Audi using the same stuff ? Cheers Dave

If you are low on coolant, you can just use distilled water. It is pure enough and will not harm your cooling system. There are lots of discussions about the coolant and I would just stick with Porsche as if you mix it you will get gel...and not worth the risk. Unless you have contamination, I would see no reason to flush the system.....You should be fine...

Good luck.

DC

The correct interpretation of the noise and circumstances would make it easier. The wheel possition problem occurs especially by full turn at first start, in cold conditions.

The sound is like scratching of cold hard rubber on a rough surface, sometimes the wheel jumps a little rather than rolling, perfectly visible for a helper standing next to the front wheels. It does not happen with warm tyres and hot outside temperatures. Other noises belong probably to other parts.

Thanks for the insights here.....Just trying to be comfortable that I do not have a problem. The noises you described seem accurate to what I have, and I do seem to notice it at very cold temps and at start up.....

Hi All....

I have read for some time through the threads about the popping/clunking/clacking sounds when you turn hard (backing out of garage etc.). I have had it on my turbo as well....Seems to be worse when cold...Like today at a toasty 6 degrees F. Many say it is normal and due to the geometry of the steering etc...Some say they have changed strut bushings and that was the issue, and some have indicated it is just the Ackerman affect (different size circles turning at same speed make inside and outside of tire skip).

I took it to the dealer once, and they did not find anything.....Another time, and different dealer found some leaking in steering rack and replaced under warranty...Great, but no change.

So I am just trying to see if anyone actually knows if this is normal or should I keep pounding on the dealer before I have no warranty left?

Any insights are appreciated. I know one option is to wait until warranty expires and then take to dealer and I am sure I will find all sorts of issues that need repair :)

Thanks!

DC

I want to upgrade my 99 boxster interior light to the 2002 and later interior light but I can't find the part number for the much smaller electrical connection on the new light. By chance does anyone know the partnumber?

Not sure exactly which one you are referring to, but if it is the one in the picture here, I have included the part number as well. This is for 2002 Boxster.

Good luck!

DC

about two months ago, i got a tpms fault. lost both readings on the right side. did some research and assumed the sensor batteries were dead. replaced the sensors with new ones and did the set procedure still unable to get the readings back. I then bought a durametric to check the fault codes. all were clean. i took the car to a porsche garage and piwis did not detect any faults. still would give me learning message which turns to inactive after driving a while, 20 plus miles. Replaced the tpms controller box. same results.... what else!!!!!

please help

JJ

Hi There,

I have had the same issue occasionally on my 997 Turbo...I had the dealer check, and no fault code either. They just said they reset with the PIWIS and it has worked fine since. It does flake out some times, but not often...Then comes back. Mine occurs on the same side too. I am guessing it is a glitch with the system. Porsche dealer could find nothing wrong...I have played around with it and reset (learning mode) and it eventually straightens out....Kind of annoying, but does not happen often.

Good luck.

DC

Interested Bump!

Sorry...Been offline a couple days...I will look it up and post soon.

DC

OK Guys, Sorry I was busy last week. Here is a link to one of the connections mentioned. Once on this site, you can easily poke around for different connectors that may fit your application. Also an

opportunity for research on the application of these connectors on their site. Prices seemed reasonable to me, and I had one on a previous car and worked perfectly.

Click Here

Good luck!

DC

Interested Bump!

Sorry...Been offline a couple days...I will look it up and post soon.

DC

Hi,

If interested in connecting MP3 to the Stock Porsche (Becker) stereo (E.G. CDR220). I think I may still have a link to purchase these connectors for less than $40? You connect to the cD Changer interface, so you will lose your changer, but can connect any MP3 player. Does not charge it, just plays through mini RCA Jack. Let me know if interested and I will see if I can locate the link again.

DC

Car is about 6 model years old...If driven average 12K / Year would be 72K. So appears to be average or a little less than average mileage.

DC

I've read that the tiptronic transmission has gone through a few changes over the years, but I don't know the details. From what I can gather a general revision happened in 2007, but I don't know what the details are. Similarly, S models have a "better" tip than non-S, and cars with the sport chrono (and thus a sport button) get faster shifts.

Can anyone clear up the differences for me? Is the sport chrono tip the same as the S-model tip, or are they different? Does a 2006 S tip shift any faster than a 2007 non-s?

From what I am aware of.....The transmission does NOT change with the sport chrono. The chrono package simply remaps the shift intervals, so yes it does shift differently (more aggressive), but is not a different transmission.

On a Boxster, the transmission model for 05-06 is A87.01 and for 07-08 it is A87.02 . Also for the Boxster S, it gets a different tiptronic for 05-06 is A87.20 and for 07-08 it is A87.21.

On the Caymans you have 2 transmissions Also : 07-08 it is A87.02 and on "S" model 06-08 A87.21 same a Boxster.

So they are different and likely have different shift patterns, and the chrono changes the DME settings to affect that as well...although the chrono option does not involve a different transmission.

Hope that helps some...I am sure others know more :)

DC

When I am traveling at low speed...just above idle speed, like driving in a parking lot, and I turn the wheel sharply to the end of the steering wheels travel I hear a load clack, clack, clack, and feel a slight jarring at each clack in the steering wheel. Is this an Uh Oh! Any likely scenarios?

fibero:

Believe it or not, that is totally normal and it is a result of the particular front suspension design of 911's and Boxsters.

Regards, Maurice.

Agree with above. It sounds like "crap", but I noticed on my 997 Twin Turbo it was really loud and clunky...Like CV joints popping. I have had it at the dealer 3 times, and nothing is wrong....Or at least that is what they tell me. I imagine when my warranty expires, I will get the truth :) and a rather large bill...

Good luck!

DC

Muchas gracias senor! :D

One more note. Is the locking motor worth replacing? How much is it, ball park?

Thanks again.

Lock mechanism looks to be about $214. If it locks and causes no issues, probably would not worry about it...But your preference.

DC

Hello Forums!

I have a few DIY questions, and would greatly appreciate any help you might be able to give. I've had a huge list of things I'd like to do but cannot seem to find specific answers with my keywords. Your time is greatly appreciated.

1. I'm trying to change the Cabin Air Filters. To my understanding, I need to approach this by removing the filter from the passenger foot well. My question is... where are the screws?! I can see the panel, 12V outlets and the comfort light.

2. I'd like to change the rear brake-pads. Is there any way to check if I need to change the rotors as well? My car is at 85K.

3. I'd like to change some of the fluids. I do not have a lift. Is there any way I can do this without having a lift?

4. One of my door locks is whirring on lock. What could be the cause? What can I do to fix this?

5. My car, rather than making 2 crisp horn sounds on lock, is now sounding like a dying old man when locking. Any ideas on why this might be?

Thanks for your time.

I attached the instructions for the Particle Filter. If the rotors do not have grooves, are not warped, and have not been turned beyond minimum thickness, you do not need to replace them, You may want to scuff them with some abrasive (sand paper).

You can get to most all fluids on these vehicles with ramps or a floor jack, no need for a lift. Sounds like your locking issue is the locking motor wearing....no idea on #5. Hope that helps.

DC

Cayenne Particle Filter.pdf

I need a new clutch on my 02 996TT and wanted to find out the parts required. thx.

If you are going to have it pulled, I would consider at least changing the pressure plate, clutch plate, and the release bearing. I have included the diagram for a 2002 996 for reference.

I am sure others may have additional thoughts or more experience.

Good luck....

DC

I have a 2002 911/ 996 Carrera, and want to do my own oil change. I want to use Mobil 1 0- 40 oil (is this ok ) and I'm confused about all these different size tools to use when I do it ? Can any of you advise of the exact size tool I must use to remove the drain plug (which I will replace with a stainless steel one) as well as the size (tool) to remove the filter housing ? I seem to be reading about all these different size tools to do an oil change ,and it's confusing I thought, most 996's used the same size tools to remove the plug and filter housing ? Please advise , on tool sizes, and oil type , thanks Dave.....

The Porsche 996/986 oil filter wrench is 74.5 MM.. Good luck!

DC

Thanks. I guess not much information can be gained.

That sucks.

Yep..Very little included in the older VIN's. The order sheet with option codes would be the best thing to find if possible. In the newer models there is a label in the bonnet, but not sure beyond the 1990's ?

DC

VIN is 9115201167

Just trying to figure out what Im working with.

Was my uncles, I do know he took the Engine out and put the german engine in.

That engine is currently out.

Help! Tried to look for the decoder for the 10 digits but found nothing..

Check out this post....May help you determine what you have: LINK

Good luck..

DC

I have a 1999 Cab 2 with 36k miles on it and it runs great. I live in the northeast so when the weather is bad I definitely wont use. It is garaged but there is no heat in there. Will starting it up once a week and driving it a little keep it juiced? Is there anything else I should do. The oil was recently changed. I also have a battery trickle charger just in case.

I would do as you suggested, but you should also invest in a battery maintainer. I would suggest the automatic versions...That is what I use. Charges and then turns off...then chargers and turns off as needed etc...

Usually called battery tender or maintainer. That is your best bet. The starting and running a little will also help keep the engine well oiled. May want to put fuel stabilizer as well if it will sit for long.

Good luck.

DC

Hi, I'm new here. Great forum.

The Driver's side power seat on my '02 996tt won't move with the buttons (the passenger side is ok). I can hear slight click (when the button is pushed) but no movement. Anyone knows a quick check and fix? Thanks.

Also, the driver's side seem to rock back and forth a bit. Kind'a annoying. Any suggestions?

d.

Maybe obvious, but have you checked the fuse panel? There is a fuse that controls each seat operation? Worth checking? However, if it clicks (not from button moving, but from power) maybe check to

see if something is binding the mechanism.

DC

Must say that is an interesting color...Never seen it before.

DC

Put my winter tires on today, and two of them need to be replaced (long story about having a friend do the alignment a few years back and ruining two tires). Apparently the tires I have on it aren't produced anymore - Dunlop Grandtrek 235/60 r18. Are there any risks in running two different manufacturers of tires? The two that don't need replacing were bought 2 years ago, I think - and they are in very good shape. Other than possibly looking like cr**, if the diameters are the same, do I run any risks? Thanks,

Ken

Most experts will likely indicate that all four (especially on an AWD vehicle) should be the same exact tires for safety. That said, if you do your best to install tires that have similar tread attributes and similar tire characteristics (treadwear rating, load range, compound, traction and temperature rating, total circumference, aspect ratio) you should be fine. That will depend on your comfort level however.

If you can get four exact, always better and safer, but do what you need to do and best to get them as close as possible....

Good luck...Hope that helps.

DC

Where would that be in relation to the driver's side tail light? Do you what it is mounted to in there?

It can really be anywhere,but as indicated in my picture I attached, is likely mounted (glued/ body putty/ Velcro) to the inside of the actual bumper cover (where I indicated). It will be below the tail lights and actually in the cover itself. If you look where the yellow box is in my photo, it will likely be on the inside of the cover, or mounted on the chassis right there or nearby. That is one location where there is room for the box to fit. If it is not the blue-tooth version, you can likely follow the wiring?

Either way...I think if you remove your rear bumper cover you will find it pretty easily. Won't be near any of the exhaust components to prevent damage.

Hope that helps.

DC

Removing the old K40 which came in my car and so far have removed the front radar receiver and defuser, controll box and LEDs in the cockpit and all wiring between the front items and cockpit. I am now on to the back pieces and I can't find the rear radar receiver. Anybody have any ideas where to look? I have checked under the car and as much as I can see under the rear bumper.

The car is a cabrio and I have so far traced and removed the wiring up to where the rear seats meet the back all to the cabrio top.

Anybody have any ideas or suggestions.

The rear sensor on my 997 Turbo is located inside the rear bumper cover. Have to remove the rear cover to get to it. Usually on the side pieces so it can point back...Likely the driver's side.

Good luck.

DC