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Fault code 1 Motor circuit, left This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA (High Beam Adjustment), left, terminals 1,2, 3, 4 2. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the supply leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA. Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary. I am not an expert in boxster repairs. I did few stuff like maf cleaning, headlamp replacement etc. Do you have any article which provides images on how to work on it. I searched online but couldn't find any. Also can you tell me whats the level of difficulty for this.
Can you post the actual fault code numbers and what diagnostic tool did you use? I am using Durametric to retrieve fault code. "Heating and Air Conditioning: 31 Fresh Air Blower Fault" It is what it gave me. Nothing more.
Hi Loren, I just got Fresh air blower fault. It didnt say low or high voltage. What should I start with? Also I have another error code Litronic headlights HBA current fault codes 1: Engine path left what does it mean?
An update on the recent work on my car. Before I saw your response I have cleaned my MAF sensor as I heard that after AOS is fixed its recommended to clean MAF. But one doubt that I had with the cleaning of MAF is, I saw a sensor element(like a diode) attached on top of the plastic piece. Can I spray on that too also? Or do I have to just spray in those two holes as directed by pelicanparts. Anyways even though I have cleaned it I didn't see much improvement in the performance. One thing which I forgot was to disconnect batter(reset DME). My idle was really bad before. Now its considerably better after MAF cleaning. But hesistation while acceleration especially uphill is noticeable. I am going to clean throttle body cleaning this week and my mechanic said that mine is an electronic throttle and so before cleaning he asked me to tape the electronic ports. I am going to use a techron fuel injector cleaner too this week. One more thing which I saw was my idle is rough after I start my AC.Another question I had was if I remove my oil cap when engine is running should my idle go up? If the idle remains the same even though the the oil cap was off does that mean I have a vacume leak?
Hi guys, changed the coolant tank. My old coolant tank had a small hole and was leaking. Anyways though replacement in coolant tank didn't solve my performace problem. But recently I drove 300 miles and after I came back I started to see engine hesitation a lot. Finally the day came where my dashboard started showing check engine light. Took it to my mechanic. Surprisingly its AOS failure. Read error codes and the tool showed both o2 banks as fried. He did a glove test and he figured out right away that AOS was the culprit. Now I have replaced my AOS and my performace kinda came back. So happy to find the problem. But still engine hesitates and am thinking MAF has to be cleaned, air and pollen filters has to be replaced. Also I have a doubt about fuel filter too. When I press the gas pedal it kinda hesitates. During downhill it accelerates quick than uphill.(The different is very noticeable). Does anyone think if its MAF or fuel filter or any other symptoms? Or is it becuase the car needs to get adjusted with the new AOS installation? Also quick update on my 3000 RMP vibration, the vibration actually minimized too.
yes the check engine light comes and then goes out once I start the car. But I wonder can this happen with MAF failure, "performs well at the beginning and once temp raises performs like crap" Also one more thing, if I switch on air conditioner performance is pretty bad.
Does any porsche dealers read the error codes for free?? Mine is an old one and dont have a warranty on it. What about advanced auto parts or autozone. Do they have regular reader or Durametric stuff???
Hi, I have a boxster 2001 with 75000 on it. My cars performance keeps on failing and these days its becoming bad. I have been going through this link http://www.andysautosport.com/hi_flow_catalytic_converter/porsche_boxster.html where its written, "If your Boxster engine seems to be losing power or your temperature gauge reads a little high, one possible culprit could be that a rich condition is feeding excessive unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, which can overheat it as well as damage it." My cars temperature is a little high if I drive for more than 20 min, few times when I idle at a signal light and when I press gas to move the car, I feel I am pulling a big truck with my car and I had to give more rpm around 2k to move the car or it vibrates. Also one more thing which I have noticed was the car performs ok with in the first 10 min of my ride but after that it performs really bad. If I am going uphill with my ac on I think even a pick up can over take me. My mechanic keeps on saying there is nothing wrong with the car all the time and last time when I gave my car for its 60k service he said it did not throw any error codes. Since then the performance even got worse. Please guys I need help really bad with this problem.
Hi Everyone, Today I took my car to my mechanic to take a look at the vibration on my steering. It seems I need a new set of tires. But what I have noticed was my rear wheels are hard to turn than front tires. ALso I have noticed something else, after a ride for 30-45 min when I park the car, I could feel more heat coming from rear wheels comared to front. When I touched the rotors they are hot compared to the front rotors.(FYI I replaced rear brakes and rotors few months before and my front are really old). I know that the car has a mid engine but just want to make sure if something is wrong with my rear wheels. I dont want to ask my mechanic about this because the last mechanic who used to work with my car tried to take advantage of my ignorance when he knew that I am totally a noob on cars.
Thank you guys for all your responses. I had been so stressed out with my car coz its taking too much of time and not letting me think about my work. But I stopped thinking about my car and now I am back with more problems. My coolant tank is totally empty. I cannot see any traces of coolant from outside. But when I called a reputed mechanic in San Antonio( Jones Autowerks) he asked me to check if the coolant light is on. But unfortunately its off. So he is like there is still some coolant. Previously if I dont drive the car for few days and I start it used to release white smoke at the beginning. But now it stopped doing that. So now I am thinking the coolant is missing. Last time when I did the 60k service they said no error codes everything looks fine. Also I babied the car and I agree. Now I am not driving less than 3000RMP mark. My 4th and 5th gears are awesome. But I am totally sure that my 2000-3000 mark suck real bad. Previously when I was completely new with the car, it used to fishtail if I did not control my throttle. Now no signs of fishtail. And these days after my fan's start running no matter what, even though the temparature decrease I have to press the throttle a little bit more to get the same speed. Like assume I used to press the accelaration pad half way down for reaching 70Mile mark on my 4th gear. Now I have to press a little bit more than half. I am planning to add some coolant in the car and see if atleast I get a little bit of performance but my mechanic recommends to change coolant tank itself not just adding coolant. What do you guys say about that? Also can someone give me an idea about IMS affecting the performance of the car? **** I should have brough a newer porsche. Couldnt afford it at that time. Now I regret.
Hi Everyone, I have a boxster 01, 5 speed manual, 70k milage. I got it from a person who sold it around 64K. I did a 60K service on it. This is my first car so didnt knew much when I brough it. After I brought the car I noticed that around 3000 RMP it shakes. So after some research changed front engine mount. Also did wheel balancing too. Still small amount of vibration can be felt under my seat when the RPM is around 3000. Have the same problem when enging idles. Recently I have been facing performance loss. I dont rev upto higher RPM's. The best I do is until 4000RPM. But I like quick accelaration from 1500-3200 so I drive just between that mark. When the engine is cold it performs good enough. But once the engine gets warmed up(when the temp. gauge stays around 200 degrees), after a while of driving it looses its performance. I dont get those quick accelearations. Also I have to step on my accelaration pedal a little more(on my top gear). I spoke with my mechanic (JONES AUTOWERKS, San antonio,TX), he rev's upto 6000 and says it works fine. 6-7 mechanics tested that but everyone say its fine. Deep down I feel there is something wrong and would like to know. Previously I used to accelarate between signal lights which I stopped now. Things I felt which may be Culprits: 1)MAF sensor 2)Coolant Tank 3)Any wheel bearings which puts more effort on the engine to turn the wheels 4)Idiling the car. 5)AOS 6)Vacume leaks Recently changed the alternator and read some where that I should not take the car for short trips. Since then I dont stop the car for short trips, so I have to idel it if there are lot of stops. Thats the only car I have so I use it for day to day purpose. But I am not able to judge properly coz the thing happens after engine get warmed up. Also need some recommendations how to drive a manual transmission. How much people generally rev the car before changing to higher gear. And I have this habit of pressing gas pedal a little before letting of the clutch go coz when I change gears it gives a jerk and hence wanted a smoother gear change. But the funny thing is, if I do like that then the performace is not good when compared to not giving accelaration until the remove my foot from the clutch totally. Its like the car is asking for sometime to breath....... I took it to another mechanic and he said that its because its a v6 and so its not that responsive. Banging my head as I want the feel of a perfect drive which is not happening at all.