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skipp

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Posts posted by skipp

  1. here's our infant seat...it has a sticker/picture of how to use it in the back seat if you don't have the air bag deactivator. It faces toward the rear of the car in the back seat and uses the lap belt across the childs legs and the shoulder harness goes through a loop on the back of the child seat.

    Bought it from a friend....has Porsche logos on it.

    post-7751-1184729717_thumb.jpg

  2. Thanks to the site in helping me decide on the X74 suspension for my 2002 Cab

    X74 Rocks!!!!!!!

    Rides the way the car should have from the factory. Very little body roll, true cornering, nicely lowered stance

    Not at all harsh.....just firmer

    Bought from Gert Carnewall. Very knowledgeable. If you buy outside the USA, be aware of the import duty/tax that Fedex will stick you with ($85 a week after arrival) + Visa charges a 2% currency conversion fee = no cheaper than buying in the USA. Gert elected to hide behind his website "disclaimer" rather than pay the 85$ that should have been included in his "all shipping included" claim = lost customer.

    Great Porsche product....buy it, you'll love it.

    post-7751-1184628985_thumb.jpg

  3. Hi All,

    I recently noticed a rattle coming from the passenger side convertible top area. When I lowered the top to inspect, I noticed the convertible top motor would be running, but the top was stationary at first and them would be jerked back eventually. Once the top was all the way down, I tried to put it back up. When raising the top, the drivers side attempeted to go up, but the passenger side seemed to sag, causing the top to pitch or come back up crooked. I helped the process with my hands, but it ended up coming up all crooked with the "clam shell" staying in the opened position. Eventually I messed with it enough to get it closed. It seems to me that something has come unhooked or broken on the passenger side convertible top mechanism. The frame seems fine, rather, whatever pushes the convertible top frame up and down seems to be not working properly on the passenger side. Any help is very appreciated.

    Thanks,

  4. Hi All,

    I recently noticed a rattle coming from the passenger side convertible top area. When I lowered the top to inspect, I noticed the convertible top motor would be running, but the top was stationary at first and them would be jerked back eventually. Once the top was all the way down, I tried to put it back up. When raising the top, the drivers side attempeted to go up, but the passenger side seemed to sag, causing the top to pitch or come back up crooked. I helped the process with my hands, but it ended up coming up all crooked with the "clam shell" staying in the opened position. Eventually I messed with it enough to get it closed. It seems to me that something has come unhooked or broken on the passenger side convertible top mechanism. The frame seems fine, rather, whatever pushes the convertible top frame up and down seems to be not working properly on the passenger side. Any help is very appreciated.

    Thanks,

  5. Loren or anyone,

    Thanks for your responses. This only seems to occur during low speed turns. Usually while braking, ie turning into a driveway or doing a u-turn, or turning into a parking spot. It's not always when braking though. It has happened while moderate/ aggressive accelerating out of a curve before also. There is no noise, only the feeling you get through the steering wheel and sometimes the brake pedal. Just a slight shifting feeling communicated through the steering wheel.

    As I said earlier, when I unlocked the steering column and moved the steering wheel around one day, I could feel the same type feeling in the barake pedal.

    Thanks for any thoughts

    also, it does happen without touching the brakes.

  6. Thanks for the input.

    ...the feeling ( a pop or shift ) transferred through the sterring wheel and sometimes felt at the same time throught the brake pedal usually happens when braking and turning at the same time. Although it does occur at other times with no braking at all. It's not constant, only periodically. It does happen every day though.

    Also,

    the car does not have PSM system......And I would like to go tto the gear head meetings in Charlotte...

    Thanks

    Skipp

  7. Hi all,

    I have this weird popping feeling being transmitted through the steering wheel when turning. It only does it occasionally. You;ll be making a turn and you'll feel a pop of some sort being communicated to your hands on the steering wheel. At the same time, I'll often wheel the same pop in the brake pedal. I recently unlatched the steering coumn adjustment lever and jiggled the wheel around with the latch still undone and could feel the popping sensation in the steering wheel and the brake pedal at the same time, which made me think it had something to do with the steering column adjustment mechanism.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  8. Here's my month-long saga with happy ending:

    Day 1 - I took my US '99 tip coupe in for a routine oil change. Oil was found in the coolant and vice versa. Shop called Warrantech. About Day 4 or 5 - Warrantech sent a rep to the shop and confirmed the intermixing. About Day 7 - I called Warrantech. They said, "Be patient." About Day 10 - The guy from Warrantech said, "Would you believe me if I told you I know all the part numbers by heart? There are no good engines in the junk yards, so you'll get a new one. They go porous. Just be patient. This happens all the time. It has to go 'up the chain' to Iowa." About Day 20 - After the shop called and pushed a little, Warrantech issued the necessary claim number to allow the engine to be ordered.

    Warrantech was slow, about three weeks overall, but how bad can I complain...really. It would be like waiting a little while to go out with Teri Hatcher. Who really cares once she's ready to go.

    Day 25 - Porsche delivers a CX engine to the dealer. (Edmonton, to Ontario, CA to Newport Beach, CA) But, I have a tip which requires the BX engine. I'm not real happy at this point but again...

    Day 30 - BX delivered. Sep-05 build date. Day 31 - All coolant pipes in the back changed. There are different pick-up points from the Sep-05 engine compared to the Feb-98 engine it replaced. All rubber hoses in the coolant system were replaced. I paid for most of those. They're so easy to get at with everything out the labor was low. Day 32 - Tip gets serviced with new filter and ATF oil change. ATF was filthy after eight years. It now shifts slightly more smoothly. Day 33 - Engine installed and rear end aligned. Day 34 - Car's ready to go but...tip needs to be programmed so it can go into manual mode. I'm ready to eat the key by now. Day 35 - Shop gets the CD for the tip programming and I'm in the car at the end of the day. It is a beautiful thing.

    It took patience but I'm a lucky guy and it's better to be lucky than good.

    I upgraded to Fabspeeds because since everything else back there was new, I went for it. Thanks to the Warrantech extended warranty, thirty-five days of a rental car cost just about as much as the whole shebang including the Fabspeeds! I have nothing bad to say about Warrantech. and I love this car. :)

    __________________________________________________________

    Seen on the back of a Ford Expedition: I'm changing the environment! Ask me how!!

    Are these "porous problems" limited to Pre- 2002 engines, or should I be concerned with engine failure on my 2002 Cab?

  9. I just got the car in the winter and have begun using the air conditioning recently. I've noticed with the a/c on, there is a kind of whiney sound that comes from the rear of the car, engine area, when the car is slowed to an idle. When you have the a/c on at a stand still and give the car a little gas, the whiney sound starts as the RPMs rise. When you let off the gas, the sound continues for about 10 seconds and then quiets down. When you hit the A/C button off ( fan still running) the sound stops completely.

    Is this normal?

    Thanks,

  10. Loren,

    Thanks for the info....When I remove the two plugs on the bottom of the door to expose the adjustment screws, are all the screws for "pressure", or are there multiple screws for different things, ie. height, angle etc. If they are for different things, how do I identify the correct screw(s) for the pressure agianst the seals?

    Is there only one screw for the "pressure" or more than one?

    Thanks,

    Adjustment of the door window pressing force on the door seal at the top and sides

    Precondition for operation of the power windows

    - Ignition switched on.

    - Ignition key should not be removed from the steering lock with the ignition switched off.

    - The door is opened for the first time after switching off the ignition.

    - Door opened.

    1. Move the power window unit rails by approx. 10 mm outwards or inwards. post-2-1139531570.png

    Note! The adjusting nuts of the power window unit rails for the pressing force of the door window upper edge against the convertible top are accessible through two holes at the bottom of the door.

    Adjustment procedure:

    1. Open the doors.

    2. Move the power window regulator into its upper position and undo the combination nuts M6 of the power window rails.

    3. Adjust the power window unit so that the upper edge of the door window is sufficiently pressed against the door seal at the side. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)

    Checking the adjustment:

    - Clamp a sheet of paper between the door window and door seal.

    Note! It must not be possible to pull out the sheet of paper.

  11. Loren,

    I was at the dealer and watched them do it. I would like to do it some more. "Adjust the door window pressing force on the door seal at top and sides"

    Thanks,

    Do you want

    Adjusting the door window angle in the vehicle's longitudinal direction?

    or

    Adjusting the door window height?

    or

    Adjustment of the door window pressing force on the door seal at the top and sides?

    or

    Adjusting the lower stop of the power window unit?

    Wow...........cool, did anyone else know there was 4 options? (or that there were screws under the door :lightbulb: )........on reseting the simple 'up limet or stop'.......pretty sure that's covered in your manual.........full down, then hold switch for up as she goes all the way & continue to hold for a sec or 2.

    Am I anywhere near right on that Loren :D ?..........and was that the 1 of 4 you were after?

  12. I think he has a cab given what he said. Your window regulator maybe old. Try some lube around the cab frame that meets the glass. I had my window regulator replaced and most of the noise stopped.

    It's a 2002 Cab. I've rubbed vasoline around the rubber at the roof line. What does a window regulator do?

    Thanks

    I forgot to tell you, it's the drivers side main window, and the vasoline stopped it for a while, but it didn't last...any more suggestions?

    Thanks,

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