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yancy0303
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OK, I got it fixed. the new switch was bad. I took the new and old switches apart and used the new bottom with the old top (plunger piece) and brake light would go out. So I put the new plunger part together with the old bottom part and my "frankenstein" switch worked!
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I'm a little stuck with a brake light issue and need someone to double check my work so far. I have done a search and everything that has been suggested I have already done. I had no brake lights. Fuse ohmed out good, but swapped anyway just for giggles. switch ohmed bad on the #2 post (i.e. one lead on post 4 and the other lead testing the other posts alternately) on post 1 and 3 I get O.L when the plunger is extended and 0.00 when the plunger is depressed. when the 2nd lead is on post 2 I get 0.00 whether the plunger is depressed or not. I throughly cleaned the inside/outside contacts with alcohol and polished them until they were shiny, still no go. Bad switch based on the ohm readings, correct? Ordered new switch. Installed new switch but left dangling under dash did not install into the bayonet holder, and the brake lights will not go out with the plunger fully depressed with my finger. So the issue is not the range of motion of the plunger. I ohmed the new switch and with the 1st lead on post#4 and the other lead alternating between the other three posts, I get a O.L reading when the plunger is extended and 0.00 when the plunger is depressed. Which is what is supposed to happen (good switch), correct? What next? or am I completely wrong with the ohm readings and it is a bad new switch?