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joesan

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Everything posted by joesan

  1. joesan
    Thanks to the advice of everyone here I managed to get the hood open. Thanks guys. RennTech Forums rock... For those people with a RHD car I can confirm that the release cable runs around from the front to the drivers side (RH). I found that easiest way to access the cable is this - Look under the car at the front. There are two small holes in the bumper on the underside. They are positioned symetrically on the Left and the Right. There is a further large hole further of to the drivers side (on the LHS as you face the car from the outside). This hole is just about large enough to push your hand and forearm up, reach right up as if you are trying to reach the bonnet latch from inside the bumper. Keep reaching and you will feel a smallish guage wire, one light tug on this and the bonnet magically releases! I've connected up the battery, and locked unlocked the doors a few times using the key fob. Is there any best practice I should use in restarting the car after it hasn't been used for some months? I've turned the ignition on quickly a couple of times and and it is not quite starting the engine (but nearly there). Does it help to pump the accelerator a little while turning the ignition or are there any other tricks I need to know?
  2. joesan
    Thanks for the reply, RFM. I've already tried to connect the battery and electronically operate it as per the manual but absolutely nothing happens when I activate the switch. It's a strange one...
  3. joesan
    Thanks Guys - Can you clarify if the cable is on the Left Hand Side of RHD cars i.e. the cable is on the opposite side to the Driver? No biggie but will save me removing two wheel liners...
  4. joesan
    Thanks for taking the time to reply, Guys. As mentioned in the post I can get into the car itself but when I tried connecting the battery to the terminal and the car body the electrical release still didn't operate. I was wondering if this was alarm related since I haven't fired the car up for a year. So if I have to go the manual front hood release (we call it the bonnet in the UK) - do I need to remove the Left or the Right wheel liner? The car is RHD.
  5. joesan
    I have a 2001 RHD UK Boxster. It's been off the road for about the year and I had removed the battery from the front of the car. The problem is that I absent-mindedly closed the hood and now can't get in to put the battery back. Since I can get in to the passenger cab I tried charging the battery and then connecting it to the terminals outlined in the manual i.e. one lead on the connection at the fusebox and the other on body of the car (I used the door look hoop on the body). Then I flicked the Hood open button. Nothing. I wondered if this was related to something relating to the alarm system since I hadn't used the car for a year? Anyway any other options to open the Hood? I've heard that there is a manual cable you can pull but I'd rather exhaust the battery options first. If nothing else works with the battery I'm up for trying the cable if someone can give me some pointers?
  6. joesan
    Well the water pump flywheel has been replaced but the mechanic says that the car is still going into overheat very quickly. If I have damaged something in the engine would fault lights be lit? I ran the car to the garage after the pulley wheel broke. That means I probably drove for about 10 minutes after the breakage. That doesn't seem like too long a time or enough to cause supplementary damage - is it?
  7. joesan
    Hi Glyn - well I have my answer - this morning there was a huge clunk. The battery light came on. The power steering stopped and the temperature gauge shot up to 120+! I took it back to the garage and we looked in the engine bay. The cause of the noise and all the above was that water pump pulley wheel had sheared off! Guess it must have just been a coincidence that this all happened at round about the same time as the clutch. Oh well can't complain as these are really the only two things that have gone wrong in 5 years.
  8. joesan
    Anyone have any ideas at all on this one? Just need some general ideas...
  9. joesan
    I took my car to a garage to have the clutch replaced. The guys there are friendly, knowledgable and competent but are not Porsche specialists. Now I can hear some strange noises when the engine is running. Sounds kind of like a squeaking / rattling noise and I get the odd deeper rumble every now and again that I am not sure is related or not. I am guessing something didn't quite go back in correctly in the engine. Can any of you experienced people out there suggest some likely places to look at? Car is 2001MY Boxster 2.7.
  10. joesan
    Thanks Toolpants (and others who posted to help). I saw this post just now - a little too late... I ran the cables this morning and everything was exactly as you described. That circular hole is, of course, entirely not a filter of any kind but is, in fact, the CD Changer bracket like the pros on here have suggested. The space for the CD changer accommodates my Mac Mini, Hard Drive and power supply perfectly. I tried a dry run today and it looks like everything works brilliantly - now I have all my CDs on tap, plus internet etc. via the computer. I'd highly recommend this route to anyone wanting to keep a lot of music in their cars. I've ripped over 1000 CDs to mine and they are all instantly playable in the car. I hope to post some pictures of the install shortly when I finish up on the install.
  11. joesan
    Sorry Guys - you're right they are seriously bad quality photos - taken with my mobile phone! i think maybe it's not a filter after all. It would be great if it is not since the space is ideal. If it is the space for the CD changer can you route wires through the middle of that circle? Here is a much clearer picture -
  12. joesan
    Yes exactly that - I am not sure if it is some kind of filter or not? Anyone know for sure?
  13. joesan
    I am looking for a safe place to permanently install my computer in the car (RHD). There is a very nice space to the right of the amplifier and behind the spare wheel. However I vaguely recall that that area is an air filter. The computer will sit just in front of the filter (there is about 5 or 6 cm between the equipment and the filter area). Do you think it will be problematic to partially obstruct the filter in this way? Here are some photos to clarify things -
  14. joesan
    Thanks for the help guys - but now I'm torn - do I go for maximum geek points and tap into the radio antenna booster power or the easy life and just buy a new battery before the install? Problems, problems...
  15. joesan
    I've read all the great tips on here on the Garage Door Opener Hack and I installed it myself in the centre console some time ago. However I've decided to move the door opener from the Centre Console to the A Pillar at the side of the window to get a stronger signal. Because it is a bit of trouble to remove the pillar cover I was wondering if it would be possible to tap off of some existing power source and power the garage door opener with that so In won't ever need to change it's battery? I was thinking of using the Cigarette lighter supply. What do you think? Also related I am planning on using switch no. 986.613.143.00 A02 to control the Garage Opener any idea what wires go where on this switch? I know 1 is the connection for when the raised part of the switch is pressed and 2 is for the lower (I think) but what are 3,4 and 5 for?
  16. joesan
    Mike -Good call. Thanks for pointing it out. That's quite a nice graphic. I've bought a load of Porsche switches off of eBay secondhand and at a very good price. I've also ordered some blank switch caps (about $3 each) and I am going to see if I can have them custom engraved. I think it might actually even work out cheaper than the original switches and I'll have custom switches. I am definitely going to use the garage door logo. Looks sweet.
  17. joesan
    Thanks Rodger. Good find. That Targa Blind control one could double up as Garage Opener symbol.
  18. joesan
    Thanks Loren. You're awesome as usual!
  19. joesan
    I'm very close to finishing an install of a Mac Mini in my Boxster. I've been helped by quite a few of the guys here and I plan on posting a how-to of the complete process to help others here who might want to do the same thing. I want to order some extra switches to use in controlling the computer and some other functions (you know e.g. like the ones that are used to raise or lower the top, switch on the demister or lock the doors from the inside - see attached). I'll be using some of the blank slots in the centre console and front dash. Does anyone have a complete list of what icons are available on the switches? I am hoping to get some pictures of what is available so that I can match the switch engravings to the function e.g. switching the computer on and off but there doesn't seem to be an easy catalog of what is available.
  20. joesan
    I am about 80% of the way through planning my Mac Mini install into my 2001 Boxster. Some of the guys here on the forums have been helping me. Now I need some different but related information. My car has the Hifi upgrade kit installed that means I have an amplifier in the front trunk just behind the spare wheel. It is the HAES brand. I am planning on routing my Mac Mini sound output directly into the Amp (or if this is not possible via the HU). Can anyone tell me - How to remove the amp from it's mounting point? Anybody got a pinout diagram for the HAES amp? Can I get switched power from the Amp wiring harness? Cheers
  21. joesan
    Hi Stefan - Here's the definition on the Carnetix website - "The value of the +V (pulse) can be any voltage from approximately +2V to +20V. Typical voltages are +5V or +12V. The value of 0V must be below +.2V or open circuit (ie you could drive this input with a relay that momentarily connects to a +12V source and then provides an open circuit). The current required to drive this input is very low (milliamps)." Richard suggested using the door open pulse from the alarm control unit (he thinks it is called A19 (Blue/Brown) on the wiring diagram. I haven't seen any pictures of the Alarm control unit yet but Richard tells me it is under the passenger seat. Anybody have a photo?
  22. joesan
    Stefan - a wiring diagram would always help but explicit expert guidance is even more beneficial. I would say that I know enough to be dangerous but I am trying to learn! I think that the PSU has its own relay bulit in so if you send a pulse it can utilise the +12V power.
  23. joesan
    Stefan - sounds good. I would be keen to use the fuse box solution as it sounds like it would give me a neat installation. I believe that the PSU can handle the full output of the battery so there shouldn't be a problem there. It is important that I give the PSU full Ampage (e.g. the phone connector would only have provided about 500mA). You're correct I am using the switched power to initiate and stop the computer in a controlled manner. The PSU I am using, the Carnetix P2140, has all the circuitry to handle that automatically built into it already. I just need to source the pulse signal and the ignition signal. Any other pointers you can give me on the connections is much appreciated.
  24. joesan
    Richard's right I have a UK model 2001 Boxster so I doubt that the phone connector is there. Also the PSU is substantial and I don't think that the phone supply is beefy enough. I am beginning to think that it might good to install the PSU and the Mini in the front trunk. I have the amplifier upgrade so I cannot use that spot but was thinking that the Mini could go in the space where the CD Changer would go? With Richard and Stefan's guidance I was considering the following connections - 1. +12V - Direct (fused) connection to the Battery 2. Ground - Direct connection to the Battery To be honest I'd rather have connected the PSU somewhere other than directly to the battery as I think it doesn't look very factory to have additional wires coming from the battery but am not sure where you would do this (fuse box?). 3. Switched +12V - From the Ignition (Richard tells me I can get this from the Relays in the drivers footwell - I'll need to investigate exactly where) 4. Pulsed +12V - From the door unlock pulse A19 (as per Richard/Stefan) Does this seem right to people? I like the idea of using the existing fuse slot but am not sure how to go about it. Anyone have a photo of how one would make the connections?
  25. joesan
    Stefan - thanks for the post. Looks like this will be very helpful. I am going to try the install soon and am going to try to photograph it to help others. I think the computer install is going to become more popular in time.
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