Y2K911

I admire your tenacity.  This must have been a nightmare job. 

 

Sometimes with this sort of problem it is possible to get thread bite by pulling the bolt out and turning it so that it grips the next secure thread.  I notice you tried to do this with a pliers, which is very hard to do when the head of the lug bolt is within a wheel recess.  

 

I have heard of someone in a similar situation using epoxy to attach a socket to the head of the lug bolt and then pulling the lug bolt back to try and get thread purchase.   From that position it might be possible to unscrew it.  However, having got it out you still had to replace the flange.    

Neat, this proves that these old threads never die.

Tenacity it took for sure, eventhough it might not have been the smartest method I was aware of at the time, in time, it worked. Bearing and flange had to be replaced afterwards.

I tried to not damage the wheel in that process but it was very tough not to, while drilling the center of the bolt and holding the bolt with pliers.

Since that wheel had been curb-damaged already by the PO, I had it refinished in Vancouver for $250 during the winter.

I must say they did a superb job for that amount of money. It is still my best looking wheel to this day.

Once the light removed, did you find any area where there was binding to cause this problem?

Bummer indeed as I followed your AOS saga.

Any cause and effect that could be drawn from this story related to provenance/manufacturer of the failing item, although this is a single sample point only?

I would not be surprised if your car is lowered with H&R springs as they are quite inexpensive while providing much improved cornering abilities with a stiffer ride.

Look for the H&R acronym on the front springs.

Appreciate the response and add'l feedback Ahsai.

As with Jean-F's, your positive contribution to renntech 996 owners' various issues does go unnoticed.

Along the same vein, may your newest AOS suck vacuum according to specs.

Cheers!

Martin

Great, Ahsai! Thanks for the effort as this could be of great assistance in the future!

One small point: Those suggested minimum voltages make a lot of sense to me but, as a curiosity, are these values stemming from your experience or are they taken from actual OEM troubleshooting documentation?

Martin

Might be low on coolant as well, depending of the camera angle to the coolant reservoir.

I liked your 'world hunger' comment, Creekman! Funny!

Thanks for the tip. I have one just like that.

I daily-drive as well but 50K miles in 22 months, ... now, that is out of my comprehension!

I assume it is mostly highway driving miles.

Nonetheless, good on you!

Would you rather have a berline or a sports car?

You already have the answer since you are on a Porsche forum.

Ahsaï;

Was this a preventive or corrective maintenance intervention on your part?

Great write-up by the way.

Thanks for taking the time to do this and inserting warning pointers along the way!

Just curious to know by how much you did move the bottom leg by any chance to get the window freed-up. Thanks for the update!

Ahsai;

From where did you end up getting  them?

Did you expect them to be of composite material?

Martin

Perfect Loren! My car is a 6-speed.

Thanks for the confirmation!

Happy New Year to you and all Renntech folks.

Racer S, all of the Rennlist folks are raving about the Fister mod on their cars. You might want to explore that mod. I haven't since I find my exhaust notes plenty satisfying.

Loren;

All 3 of my idle pulleys bearings, including item #8 of Ahsai's diagram, the tensioning roller, are getting a little 'loose' on my 150k kms 2000 C2. Is the 99710211700 # correct/applicable there as well?

Merci!

Happy to hear but it appears to me that your regulator might be getting a bit tired, lacking lubrication and stretched so I would suggest to keep that window clean to make it easy on the regulator to keep working with the least resistance possible. Keep us updated!

Superb feedback. Thank you wvicary!

I don't suppose you are driving any 911 models at this time of year in Regina?!

Don't you know it JFP. It is par for the course price-wise living north of the border.

But maple syrop is cheaper!

Bonne année, mon gars ... and may your IMS (if applicable) last forever!

Salut!

Martin

In Canuckian $$, this product is retailing for $2k while Durametric Enthusiast sells for about $300.

The Autel would have to be a good order of magnitude better than the Dura, which would surprise me.

Although I always keep an open mind.

Thanks Drew!

I used regular white lithium as well but not the 'ultra' version as I completed the job this morning prior to seeing your post.

I removed both sides' female parts (the fixed parts) completely as they split nicely using: an 8-mm combination, T15 & T20 and an hex-5. I didn't find them that dirty but there were hardly any lube left and the rubbing was plastic on plastic, no wonder the screeching noise.

I didn't have to remove the center part of the mechanism as the binding comes mainly from both vertical sides' mechanisms lacking proper lubrication.

Happy New Year!

I've added the third radiator.  What is the "fan mod" referred to?  I just jumped in on this page, so if it's discussed on a previous page, I'll just apologize for my laziness now and get it out of the way.  120,500 miles and counting. (It's my daily driver.)

Sorry about resurrecting this query, but I would still be interested in finding out what that "fan mod" is all about. TIA!

No issue at all with your sobering position in this thread, Silver_TT.

Going TT seems to be the way to go if more power is that important to the owner of a 996 platform.

More power & more peace of mind while on the power curve. What's not to like?!

Good one, Jean-F.!

Joyeux Noël à toute la famille "P"!

Martin

Come on, you two! Cut it out!

M96 owners are now all drooling profusely for a Mezger engine.

Not fair before Christmas!  :cursing:

Enjoy your Holidays!   :cheers: