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Everything posted by Y2K911

  1. AWDGuy: Acknowledged! Good luck with the rebuild, whichever option you select. It is an eye opener for me as well as to how much those fasteners add up to rebuild an engine. One understands better why Jake charges that much for his engine work, expertise and final product.
  2. As Creekman suggests, I had mine checked for leaks (none found), emptied (as I was not sure what was used by a previous owner) and recharged early this summer with R134A at a VW dealer. Too easy and lots of cold air now!
  3. AWDGuy; You seem to be between a rock and a hard place at this time having followed your other thread on Rennlist and previously here. I believe Jake has taught a few of his classes in Canada so he might have someone that attended one of his classes that he would suggest to do this rebuild if you decide to go back to that option given the lack of documentation for such a finicky job. Last year, I had asked him about his best student in the Vancouver area and he recommended (was extremely impressed with) someone in Richmond (near Vancouver airport). I have not gone ahead yet with what I want to do but even today this shop was mentioned on Rennlist Canada as being most excellent for engine work. I understand Vancouver is a bit far from Ottawa but there might be someone in the Toronto area he would recommend if he had one of his classes there in the past. Bonne chance ... and for what it's worth, we are pulling for ya!
  4. Kim: Do you still have a picture of what you old one looked like? I could do a comparison with the graphite grey I have in my 2000.
  5. I second that or simply one picture of both consoles side by each in the car. My console is in sad shape as well (graphite grey).
  6. Thanks Ahsai and Creekman! Appreciate the assistance and the good story. Most techs love to work on our machines and not necessarily because of the financial gain but because of sound design and challenging work Porsche mechanical represents to them. I also had positive experiences at non-Porsche entities (VW dealer with experienced techs) so far, for work that I don't feel confident in doing myself. I got the torque values for these bolts so no problems there. Loctite 242 is suggested for this repair so I feel confident it is what is required. I will try to use it sparingly and fellow the few drops advice from Ahsai. Cheers! Martin
  7. I have to replace all 3 of my tweeting idle pulleys on my 2000 C2. Wayne Dempsey at Pelican recommends using Loctite 242 on the bolts at installation. How much does one use to make sure those bolts WILL NOT come out while in use but as importantly, ensuring they WILL come out in the future when dissassembly is required? Loctite website recommends using several drops. I'm worried this might make the bolt impossible to remove later on. How about a drop-drop? Would that be sufficient to prevent it coming out while in use? Any advice on how much your folks tend to use in similar applications? Thank you for your attention! Martin
  8. Given your call sign, you also could have said: Man, I hope I haven't creeked you up ...:-)
  9. But keep reporting those breaks, Creekman! We kinda like that about you! :thumbup: Cheers!
  10. I own a 2000, with a build date of 08/99. So my car is almost a 99 with the last 4 VIN numbers being: ... 0220; hence, I'm 99% sure I have a dual-row as I was very early in the assy line of the 2000 model year. So could we assume your car was built in the last assembly-month of the 2000 model year: ie, July? As such, you might be pushing it for you to sport a dual-row ... but, eh!, who knows? At any rate, your case would be interesting. Make sure you tell us what you have once you probe down there ...
  11. Wow! Thanks for sharing this nugget of deviousness, JFP. Forewarned, indeed!
  12. Good point! I meant 'fore-armed' from a buyer standpoint whereby, I would likely opt for an 06 rather than an 05 to stay away from the IMS unknown risk parameter. With respect to your last question as a seller, I would not agree to go as far as pulling the T-mission but I would be honest enough to tell the purchaser about which type of engine the car has: original, refurb such as AT, etc ... to the best of my knowledge.
  13. Thanks J-F! So the hard lesson is 05,s can't really be trusted IMS-wise, even 'S's ... and watch that AT or austauschmotor designation, which will likely mean it did receive a larger single-row IMS during that replacement build or rebuild. Forewarned is fore-armed as a potential 997 buyer!
  14. Merci, J-F for your fast triggering on this beautiful Friday afternoon! So, even an 05 'S' could have a smaller diameter, singe-row IMS bearing, n'est-ce pas? Martin
  15. Very useful, indeed! This Engine Code listing is very revealing: It tells me that all 997 C2 cars or Carreras from 05 to 08 are 3.6L with a designation of M96.05, and all 997 C2S cars or Carrera S from 05 to 08 are 3.8L with an M97.01 designation. Now the salient question for these engines, is: When did the larger diameter IMS bearing get inserted in the production runs of either M96.05 or M97.01 engines? Anyone knows? This is to me very important, especially for someone (not necessarily me but eh!?) who has a keen interest in an early production 997, especially assembled in year 05 or pehaps even in early 2006.
  16. Nice going! I wonder if SUGRU might work as well for a job lilke this as you can form it to whatever shape like this and then wait for 24 hrs for it to firm up.
  17. See this thread an Rennlist for more info on availability from Germany: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/854493-dectane-vs-depo-led-tail-lights.html I have not pulled the trigger yet but it appears to be a reliable source.
  18. If I can draw a parallel with selling an old aircraft, the value of the aircraft is 95% into the engine's life left in it. The 1st thing the buyer will ask you is how many hrs are left to the next R&Overhaul for the engine. This will actually determine the virtual value of your aircraft to him. In your case, your engine has lost most of its value to the buyer and since your car is not of much use without an engine, your roller value is likely around the mid-four-figures, so I'm truly sorry for you. If you like your car otherwise and want to keep driving Porsches for awhile yet, it might not be a bad idea to contemplate spending 5-figures $ on a reliably-refurbished engine. At least, you will be totally familiar with the end-product and if you want to sell it at some point in time, your car might still be an attractive proposition after you have enjoyed it for a few years. Good luck with your tough decision.
  19. Isla; I have got to tackle this same task on my Mk1 (C2 2000). Would you mind being a bit more explicit about your statement above; ie, how did you manage to thread the cable on the A/C Compressor side? What minimum # of accessory items did you remove in order to get the job done? Thanks! Martin
  20. Mfarrell; A belated thank you! Sorry that I had lost track of this previous request.
  21. Likely because you stemmed from the British Isles at some point in time. In N.A., bonnet = hood. A hood in the case of a Porsche would be somewhat misleading since it is really a trunk, hence was born the genial term, frunk for front trunk, which in our NA view, would be pragmatically acceptable, no matter what a British ex-patriate would like to impose on us (US & Canada). In Canadian parlance, ... We stand on guard for thee frunk!
  22. You seem to have the same stance as my 2000 C2. A previous owner modified the suspension with lowered H&R coil springs. You might still be able to see the H&R markings and part # on the front shocks after you cleaned the grime with a rag, if it is those. They are popular because they are a relatively inexpensive mod.
  23. Thanks for passing on this other source of LED lights, Kevin. It looks like a professional outfit.
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