Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Y2K911

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Y2K911

  1. Sorry for highjack this thread.

    From the OP's 1sth thread, interestingly, I find the following sentence might apply to me as well:" Left bushing is deteriorated as you can see making it very hard to shift to 2nd, 4th, etc.".

    I drive an '00 C2, 6-sp. Although my shifter is stock, my 2nd and 4th are harder to upshift (notchy, especially so when cold) than the other gears. 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th are very smooth. On the other hand, downshifting into 2nd and 4th is no problem at all and very smooth.

    Could I have the same issue with my stock shifter as the OP; ie, worn-out shifter left bushings?

  2. Used as a DD but for short distances. Since maxxing-out on mileage or Km-treage is not an issue for me, I respect the once-a-year convention, ... and I do wipe-out oil tube winter mayo regularly in the winter.

    These acidic residues are what convinces me to change my engine oil once a year.

    Very nice find of a car! Enjoy, but be nice with her as it provides good karma!

  3. Trying to access the trunk, I was mystified to find that the trunk latch at the door sill would not budge, while the engine latch was totally free to unlock the engine hood or bonnet for you RHD'ers.

    In the garage, the car had not been used for a couple of weeks, had not been locked and the door was still not locked when I opened it to activate the trunk latch.

    Not smart enough to think that the car locking system was playing tricks with me, I referred to good-ole Loren's still pertinent tutorial on subject: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/33-hoodtrunk-latch-release-removalinstall/ and proceeded on removing the latch to see if anything was blocking that front latch.

    Hex bolt Removal Tip: You will need a short 5 mm Allen/hex key no longer than about 2 inches or so, to have enough clearance between the seat and the latch cover's 2 rearmost hex bolts. The front hex bolt is located in front of the seat, so no issue there. A bicycle hex multi-sizes tool saved my Canuckian bacon yesterday.

    Once the mechanism was lifted from the door sill and exposed, I realized that a locking plate was in the way and, it finally downed on me that it was only a matter of inserting my car key into the driver's door key hole to move the locking plate from its locking position.

    Felt a bit foolish, but now I know that under certain circumstances, you could have the door unlocked but the trunk still locked. I'm pretty sure that would happen only after not driving the car for at least 5 days but I'm still unsure as to why the car s/w would work that way.

    Lesson well learned!

  4. Very good point, Cloudsurfer: Tire depth is key in any AWD arrangement.

    We got 3 to 4 inches of snow last night and this morning on Vancouver Is. Playing around, I really only got PSM to react if I jerked around or tried to swing the tail by applying power in a turn. If I went on straigth line, then applied power to get it to fish-tail, PSM would not come on (ABS applying brake application to one of the wheels) unless the fish-tail was substantial. It works but a small steering input does not seem to awaken PSM. This medium sensibility feature is probably a good thing.

    First car with stability mgt, so it is fun to try reasonable manoeuvers without wearing any consequences. Next step, try without PSM!

  5. Go 17" with the Porsche recommended tire width. Narrow is the way to go in winter driving.

    You will find your PCar a very capable machine in snow having the weight over its powered wheels. Mind your power in curves though so the back does not swing on you.

    I bought my 1-yr old, used set last yr from a Rennlister incl. wheels (std Boxster issued) and tires (Dunlop) for $1000. It might be late for this year though to get any kinds of deal, unfortunately for you. it was coming off a C4.

    Good luck!

  6. A good compromise winter tire that most people forget about, are the finnish Nokian WRG2 or WRG3 All-Weather tires. They retail for about $ 210. in Canada, likely much less in the US.

    I'm on my 2nd set on my Volvo XC70 and they are a fantastic compromise for dry and wet/snow conditions. I use them all year around on the Volvo and the 1st set lasted me 52K kms. Not bad considering I didn't have to buy a set of winter tires and rims on my XC. Of course, I would not use them in the summer on a Porsche but for winter, they would be very apppropriate indeed, IMHO.

    Extremely smooth and quiet on dry pavement and with excellent grip in snow of all types, even in comtemptible West Coast's wet snot.

    Martin

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.