Y2K911

Learned much in the last few posts!

Good point about the engine # being the determining factor, not the car VIN. Note to self: Check that engine # at earliest opportunity!

Hy-Vo chains: Would the installation of those (new to me but google tells me they are used extensively for snowmobiles, etc) precede going from a 5-chain set up to a 3-chain set up in the M96 or would it be at the same time?

One conclusion that I can draw here is that MY2001 was a pivotal or crossroad year for the M96 engine, not 2000. So I'm still pretty sure I have dual-row, JFP: On s'accroche bien à nos rêves, n'est-ce pas?!

Merci bien!

BAD124:

Your explanation makes the most sense (needing room for VCam+) so far. Thanks for the info!

JFP: If you are correct as well, now I'm really confused as to what I've got in my 2000. Likely a pure and sturdy D-row given my car's last 4 VIN numbers are: 0220, built Aug 99.

Gob

There are probably a dozen kits, bearings, etc out there to chose from. It isn't just two.

There aren't comparble statistics in sample sizes that would be meaningful, would that there were. No one to take these things and run 100 samples 100k miles and report on the success or failure. And remember, Porsche with their test mules didn't know about the problems till after there were thousands in the wild so small sample tests over limited time aren't terribly confidence building. Hey the Porsche engineers were confident three times and wrong three times.

And to make matters worse, in the case of a choice between the DOF or a ceramic bearing, it isn't either/or, it could be both.

What is your installer familiar with? How many have they done of any?

They were not so wrong with the initial double-row (996-1) and then decided to make it worse or very wrong with the single row (996-2).

Capitalizing on both of these experiences; ie, being so-so wrong (D-Row) and then very wrong (S-Row), they then decided to be not so wrong with the larger S-Row (05 to 08 997); ie, not quite there, until 09 when they got rid of the IMS.

It is what made the Porsche engineers go to a S-Row from a D-Row in 2001 that really leaves me perplexed!? What were they thinking ...?

Hence so far, dumb and happy with a D-Row!

Although, this is all anecdotal, I believe we see that both products, DOF and LN Bearing, are proving to be very worthwhile products, especially for those who have the double rows, where The Solution does not apply.

Stop 'brinelling' each other, guys. We get it!

Good luck with that, Creekman!

Y2K, great information, it always surprises me what's out there, you just need to know where to find it.

Thanks,

Pleasure but should point out, I believe there only available for narrow bodies at that site. Not for C4S yet.

Oops ... meant thanks Richard!

Thanks Pedro! ... and Maurice!

Plausible, Richard and frankly I did not think of temp effect, thanks ... but that much variation due to temp?

Creekman: You might want to try these guys: http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/996parts.html

A friend of mine has bought their LED tail lights and they look really sharp. No need of resistance whatsoever. Works off the box.

So far, I only purchased their 3rd breaklight. It comes in white outside appearance but lights up a beautiful red when you apply the brakes.

Pedro, in your 1st post, you stated: "The DOF provides the open bearing with a stream of approximately 1 liter (1 Qt.) of filtered, cooled oil every minute".

In your last post, you state: "At 60 psi we get an oil flow into the IMS bearing of 400 ml/min.".

Unless you are talking about 2 different things, which one is it or is the 1 litre of oil/min., the max amount you have witnessed?

Martin

I had this same issue with a front left tire on my Volvo XC. It turned out to be a tire ply separation undetectable to the eye until the tire was worn half-way. They were Pirelli Scorpios. Although I ride on Pirello PZero Rosso on my C2 and quite pleased with them.

Your move to replace it, is the right one, in my view.

I paid almost $300 for that latch in Canada, so you did well from that aspect. Glad this issue was solved for you.

The door latch is likely faulty. Some lessons learned doing this job:

If you decide to replace the vapor barrier, which you will need to partially or totally remove, they are between $70-100. I had to replace it in mine because the previous owner had basically totally destroyed it hooking up his stereo system, which I assume he promptly removed before he sold me the car. No sweat, cars are not ideal high-fidelity listening rooms.

The 2 black fasteners that are holding the latch at the opening end of the door are triple-square fasteners, not torx. I believe #8 size, if I recall correctly.

The link between the latch and the handle (see picture) inside the door is a sliding piece of plastic, which once slid towards the latch, allow the handle link in the form of a rod to squeeze through a slit on top of the small cylinder where the slider was. Neat contraption!

The electrical connector to the latch is a typical PCar connector which unlatches just like the MAF connector by pressing a tab forcefully to lift off from a boss on the male part ... don't you love those. Bonne chance!

Good point about the fuse, Hilux2400. My enthusiasm is here-to-fore tempered.

Interesting you use the British term: fitter, as in fitter (engine tech) and riggers (airframe tech) widely used in the past in the aircraft industry in Canada. Not so much now!

Now that is a great idea to hook up a 2nd 12V battery (if you have one, of course) to the engine-located jump start points to preserve proper 12V voltage and residual current to the car while the frunk battery is replaced, being mindful of the LIVE property of the frunk disconnected leads, if they ever touch each other. Why didn't I think of that.

Kim;

Email sent! You have my friend's email as well for you to discuss directly.

Martin

Whether it is a UK or NA car, isn't that cable on the same side, ie right side or starboard side?

As to whether the UK driver is on the right or wrong side, that is a totally different question.

A co-worker (Vancouver Is. BC, Canada) did this replacement last summer on his '02 C2, and he's got both lenses at home gathering dust. If you can't find any one to assist closer to home, I can certainly ask him how much he would sell his left tail light lens to you.

I intend to do this as well in a few months, but not quite yet.

Martin

To remove the inner door latch, first you have to separate a large keyed connector that connects the door wiring harness to the latch (using a flat screwdriver from above the connector to flatten a tab that locks both male & female part of the connector). By inner door latch, I mean the locking device that is held by the 2 black outside fasteners at the end of the door. These fasteners are 8 mm triple square fasteners (torque I believe is 30 nm). Don't try with torx tools as you will simply destroy the triple square corners.

The inner door latch and the outside door handle are mechanically connected by a small metal rod from the door handle to an open rod on the latch that has a slider that squeezes/bounds the 2 rods together. To remove, you slide the slider towards the interior of the door and to install, you slide towards the door handle. Once that mechanical link is undone, you can remove the inner door latch through the interior large opening.

My issue was that the passenger window would not come down when the door opened either from the inside or outside handle. Replacing the inner door latch solved the issue and got rid of the double beep from the car, telling me something was wrong with the car alarm system.

Bonne chance!

Auto-xr: PM sent as I have a '00 C2 that could potentially result in this same issue. Thanks for bringing this up and to RFM for the solution.

Superb idea, JFP! I will do the same and order that magnetic plug from LN. I assume they provide suitable washers as well. Thanks!

This is a single row as far as I can see. Do they make dual-rows as well?

I find it strange Bill Ryan was very active on this site last spring about this forthcoming bearing initiative but then, all of a sudden, he disappeared ... until this product from his ... Casper Labs.

It certainly looks promising as a 2nd option.

I simply can't find any info in the Bentley book about the AOS; ie, the one in front of the engine on the driver's side that is a curse to replace. Am I blind or is it an oversight from the author?

Martin

Superb thread! Highly informative on the O2 and Cats end of things, and let's hope ferrugia conquers against all odds as JFP concludes above.

With 142k kms, I'll be in the same position in the not-so-distant future so it is very much appreciated!

Martin