Y2K911

Appreciate your reply, Stakeman and congrats on your new IMS bearing!

Martin

How was the shape of your double row bearing? Were the bearings coming loose in any way in their races? Mileage? I have a 00 C2 at 87k mi still on original IMS, which I believe, is a double row, but not entirely sure given Porsche went single row that year. Thanks!

Martin

Maurice @ Bentley;

When and where (library) will it be available in Canada?

Martin in BC

Thanks guys! I get from this that the digital reading is likely more accurate than the analog one. I also default to digital reading most of the time but it is nice to still have the analog one for tradition's sake.

Martin

My analog and digital speedometer readings always differ: At 60km/hr, the difference is 3 km/hr and at 150 km/hr, the difference is up to 10 km/hr.

The analog reading is always higher than the digital reading.

Of course, I have no idea which one, ie, digital or analog, is the most accurate reading! ... and not about to ask an RCMP officer to check the accuracy of my speedometers at 150 km/hr, either.

Have any of you encountered the same speedo anomaly? Merci!

Martin

To bring closure to this thread as it took a bit of time to get a 996 rear bearing to my area.

When you replace a hub flange on this car as I just found out, you have to sacrifice the bearing in the process as the inner bearing race comes out as the hub comes out. So it is a costly endeavour if one cross-threads one of the five bolt holes as this was my case. Although this was not my doing, I will certainly be very careful whenever I torque these wheel bolts in the future ... and it will always be done by hand.

At least, I should not have to worry about a noisy bearing on the left rear side of this car for a while.

Expensive lesson learned, indeed!

Ninsei;

You can use this one as it is basically the same way to do it: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/124-front-trunk-strut-replacement/

Each ends of these deck lid shocks have a circular metal clip that you can pry open with a small flat screw driver that you insert in a groove under the clip but do not remove the clip as it is only there to apply pressure to hold the male part from the car. To remove, as you spread the clip, gave the shock end a quick push and it will easily come out. Repeat at the bottom end. For installing the new one, you just push it in at each end as there is no need to pry open the circlip, at least I didn't have to. While you are doing this, you can hold the engine lid with your left shoulder. Et voilà!

Martin

Definitely have to change the hub as a few threads are stripped in that bolt hole once I could remove the remainder of the bolt once the caliper and disk were set aside. Could try an insert but for a car of this capability, I would be much more comfortable with a new hub. That was I'll do!

I managed to drill the inside of the bolt close to a half inch past the collar of the bolt and once that was accomplished, I broke the head off with a large screw driver. Now I can remove the wheel and see what's next. Likely a new hub. I'll update once I know more.

Lesson learned: The drill exercise took me around 3 hrs or so, starting with a one-quarter-inch drill bit up to a half-inch in small increments. I had to hold the head with a long nose vise grip with my left hand as the bolt was not seized in the hub and could rotate freely. At close to half-inch, it got quite tough as the bit had a propensity for grabbing the interior wall and hence torquing the drill almost off my hand: tough on the old wrist. I used some cycling chain oil drops throughout and that seemed to help.

Boy, am I ever happy this is done.

On to next step! Will post!

Martin

Thank you!

I agree Loren that likely the rotor threads in that bolt hole are damaged and that both rotors (only about 7k km since last replaced) and a new bolt will be required ... but how can you cut the bolt with the wheel in place?

The bolt is wiggling in place and it is backed out by about 2 or 3 mm compared to the other bolts torqued in place, but even with needle nose plyers and trying to rotate it out, it just won't come out any further.

Very frustrating.

Martin

I wish you were right. I didn't have any security log bolts and was actually in the process of replacing that lug bolt with one security bolt but I didn't get the chance to do that as it didn't want to come off.

Not sure where to go now but I'll find a way.

Thanks for the reply at any rate.

Martin

One of 5 lug bolts on subject wheel spins merrily counter-clockwise (trying to unscrew it) but won't come off.

What is the best method to get it out?

I intend to take it to a tire shop (slowly) but I'm enquiring because I have no idea how they would remove it.

Once removed, what part needs to be replaced to fix this issue, in your opinion?

Thanks folks!

Martin

Merci beaucoup, Loren! This newbie knew about IMS, RMS, and even found out about AOS (Air/oil Separator) today, but MAF had eluded me until now. Got a 2000 996 C2 on 25 Apr in Vancouver, BC. At one month away from being 60 years-of-age and having driven VWs all my life, this P-car is very nice, indeed! Cheers!

Martin

MAF stands for?