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casi
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Thanks a lot Loren - and sorry - did use the wrong words...
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As I have written in the other thread my engine is nearly torn. In case I don't find a crankcase in good condition I need another engine, so if then why not take a 2.7 instead of the 2.5? Can anybody tell me what else I need when switching the engine from 2.5 to 2.7 does it work with the blackbox from the 2.5? Already got a larger throttle body and other blackbox from techart what made the 2.5 together with the exhaust manifold to 238hp Has anybody here done this before? Thanks for any information
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They also checked all the bearings - the IMS is ok but the rods and the crank bearings are very used. Because of that they checked the crank housing and it is bend and can't be reworked. Now my probleme is to find a crank housing in good shape what seems to be a hard job as this is a common fail on these engines as they told me. Also need the cams replaced as all the sprockets are a bit round at the edges. Next possibility if I don't find these parts is another engine in reliable condition. Now my next question: When we swap to a 2.7 engine what needs to be changed? I already searched but did not find anything - only that it is possible. The additional hp from 204 to 238 was made by a larger throttle body, other blackbox, airfilter and exhaust manifold. Thanks for your answers...
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Back here after long time now... well the car is still in the shop - they couldn't find the mistake with any diagnostic programm but then figured out that the timing of the camshaft on row 2 isn't right. They took the engine out and checked piece by piece. What seems to be happened: A piece from the sliding bracket from the tensioner bank 2 broke away and got through the chain and the sprocket of the camshaft. The timing was one tooth wrong and they told me with two teeth it would be crashed. As they checked everything now I know that cylinders and pistons are in good shape and a pressure test and pressure loss test showed
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I got a probleme with the keyboard on my android tablet so I can't get the cursor at the right point to continue sometimes - that's why I sometimes write two times for my reply... Sorry therefor! I did another test with the durametric checked some live values but there was nothing what made no sense to me. I tryed and shut off the injection valves piece by piece and where I got the less difference was no4 but all the bank (4- 5 - 6) did not make so much difference like bank 1. I did this on idle. I'll give the car to "techart" a german tuner - they tuned the car right after production to 238hp. In my opinion there must be one sensor somewhere, that doesn't give the right measure but me I can't find it. Or maybe all this three injection valves have together one mistake in the "blackbox" Anyway I'll keep you updated
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To keep you up to date... I cleaned the TB and the T-pipe and cleaned the "idle regulation valve". With the intake manifold I gave up then - I think it wouldn't be a problem on the right side, but for the left side where my problem seems to be I thaught if I really get it out I'm not sure to damage something. So narrow inside there ... My additional problem is that I have not a garage to leave the car as it is. It's standing on my carpark in front of my house so that I have to close it everytime I finished working. Well after cleaning the intake manifold with a cloth, trying that nothing falls inside and getting all the dirt out, what I think I could manage good, because there's a step inside the manifold, I buildt everything togehther again. I tested with the oil cap while the engine running but there's no problem to take it off. In my opinion it was a liitle bit better with the misfires, but they're still there. I took the car for a ride to test it out when exactly the misfires appear. It's really only on idle or when the throttle is opened very little - maybe about 5%, when the engine is kept working, there's no problem at all. Tomorrow I'll give the car to the shop hoping they know what they do better than me.
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I missed to check this, now I already took the TB and the T-pipe out for cleaning and I want to take the manifolds of, too. Which sort of sealing is between manifold and cylinderhead? Do I need new ones or is it possible with the old ones to mount again? Right after building everything together I will check with the oil cap, but what I did is that I removed the hose from the AOS to the T-pipe, put a plug in the T-pipe and turned the engine on what happened was that some dust was coming out of the AOS.
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which amount of oil in this area is normal? My thaught is that the hose from the AOS comes in to the t-pipe on the left side where my misfires are. What makes me thinking all the time is that the misfires are in idle and with very low throttle - when it is more throttle it seems like no misfires. The car was used the last months only for short distances most about 5-10 km - can this give problems with the AOS - I think maybe in wintertime but not in summer... I'm going to clean all the pipes and hoses even want to clean the pipes down to the cylinders hoping maybe this caused the misfires
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Only little progress here... I changed the fuel filter and to make it complete the coil packs from cylinder 1-3. Afterwards I wanted to check the fuel delivery rate again, but with durametric I could not get on the option "drive links" everything other is possible but at drive links I only get an empty window. OK - this I think I can do directly on the relay... When I had a look at the engin from the top I just decided to check the hose from the AOS to the TB. Removed the hose and there was a bit oil coming out. That made me check the TB and the T-tube after it. Well what can I say - never seen something like this - it's everywhere oily inside and the TB was dry and dirty on the front and muddy-oily everywhere on the back. Even the T-tube was very oily and with muddy dirt (very fine stuck togehther like a paste) on the lower part. I should say that there is a K&N filter in the stock housing. This I immediately changed with a stock one thinking the filter is not working right. What do you think is it possible that the oil in the pipes can cause the misfires?
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I know which one you mean - I have already sean it - thanks a lot.
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I did check the delivery rate at the return line at the rear underside like it's written in my manual. In my manual the picture where to connect the gauge is bad so I can't see where to connect.
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I'll try the filter! The car got a new pump years ago - after the pump they did change the relay in addition, what had been the fault, anyway had to pay everything. At that time the car didn't even want to start of course - without activation. What do you think - it should be possible to check the fuel pressure at the same point where you usually check the delivery rate, because when everything is closed the pressure is the same in all the system - am I right?
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I did check the fuel delivery rate today. After 30 seconds it was about 500cc maybe little less. The manual says it should be 850cc. I think I should try a new fuel filter... Is it possible that this causes my problem? - Well I think the right side with zylinder 1-3 is getting the fuel first so it might be.
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I did check the sparkplugs yesterday - I changed them with others - the same than before. I'll try to check the fuel pressure and the delivery rate. The manual says "special tool 9559 and P378a" can someone please tell me how it looks like and where to connect exactly? In my manual the picture is so bad that it's nothing to see... If there's a thread - which size is it? I've got some possibilities to make an adapter by myself and some gauges I have, too.
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I´m sorry - it was P1585 and not P1385 - I had it wrong in my mind - that´s for sure. I did edit it up there. It didn`t come back after filling some fuel in. I´ll check the sparkplugs - I should have done with the coilpacks... What does anybody think about a malfunktion of the variocam - usually I think it should be displayed as an error?