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JeffKay

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Everything posted by JeffKay

  1. JeffKay
    Thanks for all the input. I removed the piston and tapped the center for a M6 bolt. I used a socket with a fender washer and tried to draw it out, it did not budge. The piston came out of the caliper easy, but the damper inside was welded in. No way of getting it out except for using a grinder. I just bought a new piston and boot, put it right in. One problem out of the way! Thanks again. Jeff
  2. JeffKay
    Thanks for the info everyone. I'm going to pop the piston out today and soak it overnight. I'll post my results! Jeff
  3. JeffKay
    I was doing the brakes on my 06 C2 Cab. They probably have not been done before, the car has 34K on it. WHen I did my 996 brakes. the dampers fell out. The dampers were difficult to remove and one is outright stock in the piston. They seem to have rusted together. The inside of the piston seems like surface rust or some buildup. Any ideas? Last resort is a piston rebuild kit. If so where should I get one? One vender has single piston rebuild kits… I think. Thanks Jeff
  4. JeffKay
    Ohlins.. 5 grand.. Um.. Yea thanks.
  5. JeffKay
    I sold my 996 cab and I’m getting a 06 997 C2 Cab non PASM I want to install coilovers for better daily driving and appearance. I did this to my 996 as well. I will never track this car. I have a Lotus Elise for that Yea, the PSS10’s would be great, but I don’t want to spend 3K+ I've seen K-sport (early reviews not great - but seems to have worked it out) and D2 Any suggestions? Thanks Jeff
  6. JeffKay
    I got my car with 75,000 miles on it. I did the lower control arms, lower control arm link, Steering rack tie rod ends and the bearings. It tightened up the front end a whole lot and it was a fairly easy thing to do. Pelican parts has everything you need.
  7. JeffKay
    My PO put a 996.2 Turbo Look bumper and headlights on my car. (1999). The fitment was never quite right. Is there more to changing 996.1 to a 996.2 look then headlights and bumper? Was the hood or fenders different? Thanks J
  8. JeffKay
    When I lower the top, the passenger window goes down automatically, the drivers does not . It does go down if I click it. I held both switches in the up position for 10 seconds to calibrate them (from the Bentley book) Any suggestions? Thanks Jeff
  9. JeffKay
    Ok, it worked great! But.... a few caveats.. It was soooo frustrating! My goodness I cursed like a sailor. Getting those pieces out of the original hole was impossible for me. I made another access hole on the other side of the windshield. I used a wire and pushed the pieces through. I have no idea how he got them out. I recommend keeping them all and reassembling them on your bench to see if you got them all. Otherwise they could rattle and be annoying. Also, the tool to press the rivnut. I bought that tool pictured in the PDF. I gave it to a bodybuilder friend and he could not crush a steel rivnut. Maybe the guy in the pdf used aluminum or brass, steel cannot be crushed with that tool by a mortal man. I ended up sticking a three foot piece of pipe on each handle for more leverage. But.. it worked and it's fine! - Thanks everyone.
  10. JeffKay
    I replaced my drivers side with a URO. It works fine.
  11. JeffKay
    Wow - thanks! https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/randrcenternuts Awesome solution!
  12. JeffKay
    Loren, I edited my post, but I could not change the headline. I took off the IR covers (the dark plastic thingys) and there are 2 4mm bolts. Unfortunately, the receiving end is cracked as in the pic. I can see of no way to replace this. It looks like it's sealed in the window frame. Any suggestions?
  13. JeffKay
    If that is what it's called... I attached a pic. I have a 99 C2 Cab. I was checking the rattle when my top is up. This piece, the console the convertible top locks into is loose. The PO broke the threads.. how is this fixed? See pic. It's in the top of the window frame.,. I can't see any access to it. Thanks Jeff
  14. JeffKay
    Good idea.. When I jack it up this weekend, I'm going to check that too.. Thanks
  15. JeffKay
    I ordered 000-721-961-91 Kurt. The 996 one was one digit less 000-721-961-90 I'm picking it up today, so I will be able to verify it later.
  16. JeffKay
    Ok, That makes perfect sense now. They drop into place.I ordered the 997 alignment tool today, I'll do that as soon as it gets in.thanks!Jeff
  17. JeffKay
    Thanks, I'm going to do that today. I ordered the tool for the 996 shifter tool before I took the console apart, I didn't know I had a 997 shifter. So you are right... the 997 one is green. Oh well.. I have a spare now!
  18. JeffKay
    Thanks Ahsai. I forgot to mention that my shifter feels out of calibration. It just seems a bit off. That's why I bought the tool. So the cables adjust themselves? Thanks
  19. JeffKay
    The PO put a 997 shifter in my 996. It's in perfect condition. I dissembled my console, no prob there. I bought the alignment tool. I get that it plums the shifter in the exact correct neutral position. Now, what method to adjust the cables? I'm guessing ... count/mark/photograph the current cable positions/notches (In case I bork it) Disconnect both. Shorten them one or two notches Try reconnecting until they just fit, increasing one notch at a time as I go. ? Again, this is a guess.. If anyone really knows, I'd appreciate the input Thanks Jeff
  20. JeffKay
    Part 996-605-901-00-M100 is the part right?
  21. JeffKay
    I hooked up my Durametric cable on my 99 C2 cab the other day. I checked the engine error codes section. Error P1531 - (Camshaft Adjustment Bank 1). This was not here the last two times I checked. Actually the only two times I checked. No CEL light on the dash though. I cleared the code and drove it another day. Same error on Durametric but again no CEL light. Does the CEL light have a certain threshold (ie error code persisting for xx seconds or something) before lightning up indicating an issue? The car seems to idle and run up fine. I googled and they said check the wiring harness to the solenoid & actuator. Where is this? I have the Bentley book but could not fine where it mentioned the Variocam actuator and electrical connector. Any suggestions? Thanks Jeff
  22. JeffKay
    I was always under the impression that the squel is the pad on the piston/caliper, not the rotor. I'm aware these are stree/track pads. My guess is that the back of the pad (shim) is very shiny and smooth. I probably should have scuffed it a bit so the sticky compond on the back of the vibration dampner has more to grab on to. Maybe I will pull them off and do just that.
  23. JeffKay
    Cool Carbon pads http://www.coolcarbonperformance.com/ Balo coated rotors. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-351-405-01-M805&catalog_description=Brake%20Disc%20Left%20Front%20%28Coated%29%2C%20996%20Carrera%202%2F4%20%281999-2004%29%2C%20Each
  24. JeffKay
    I get an squeal from low speed braking occasionally. It's when applying the same amount of pressure coming to a full stop. I changed pads, rotors and vibration dampeners, all new. I did a the bedding procedure for the brakes. Other then this occasional squeal, they work great. I did not use any CRC brake quiet or similar product. I was told the vibration dampeners made that unnecessary. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  25. JeffKay
    Sell your car and buy a manual. (or live with the auto) This project will spin out of control fast. I am planning on doing this to an older car I own (81 DeLorean). It's not a cheap task, even for a car pre-computerized. I have procured most of my parts and will do most of the work myself. On this car, I can't imagine the complexity.
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