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JeffKay

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Posts posted by JeffKay

  1. Thanks for all the input.

     

    I removed the piston and tapped the center for a M6 bolt. I used a socket with a fender washer and tried to draw it out, it did not budge.

     

    The piston came out of the caliper easy, but the damper inside was welded in. No way of getting it out except for using a grinder.

     

    I just bought a new piston and boot, put it right in.

     

    One problem out of the way!

     

    Thanks again.

    Jeff

  2. I was doing the brakes on my 06 C2 Cab. They probably have not been done before, the car has 34K on it. WHen I did my 996 brakes. the dampers fell out.

     

    The dampers were difficult to remove and one is outright stock in the piston. They seem to have rusted together. The inside of the piston seems like surface rust or some buildup.
     

    Any ideas?

    Last resort is a piston rebuild kit. If so where should I get one? One vender has single piston rebuild kits… I think.

     

    Thanks

    Jeff

     

    post-82645-0-60938300-1408663145_thumb.j

  3. I sold my 996 cab and I’m getting a 06 997 C2 Cab non PASM

    I want to install coilovers for better daily driving and appearance. I did this to my 996 as well.

    I will never track this car. I have a Lotus Elise for that

    Yea, the PSS10’s would be great, but I don’t want to spend 3K+

    I've seen K-sport (early reviews not great - but seems to have worked it out) and D2

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks

    Jeff

  4. Ok, it worked great! But.... a few caveats..

    It was soooo frustrating! My goodness I cursed like a sailor. Getting those pieces out of the original hole was impossible for me. I made another access hole on the other side of the windshield. I used a wire and pushed the pieces through. I have no idea how he got them out.

    I recommend keeping them all and reassembling them on your bench to see if you got them all. Otherwise they could rattle and be annoying.

    Also, the tool to press the rivnut. I bought that tool pictured in the PDF. I gave it to a bodybuilder friend and he could not crush a steel rivnut. Maybe the guy in the pdf used aluminum or brass, steel cannot be crushed with that tool by a mortal man.

    I ended up sticking a three foot piece of pipe on each handle for more leverage.

    But.. it worked and it's fine! - Thanks everyone.

  5. The cables don't adjust themselves once you reconnect them. However, you align the cables by putting the gearbox in neutral, locking the shifter in neutral, and then reconnect the cables. You may want to check at the transmission side under the car how the cables are connected to it. The cables may be knocked out of the metal brackets and also the cable ends (sockets) could have worn and created extra play.

    Thanks, I'm going to do that today.

    I ordered the tool for the 996 shifter tool before I took the console apart, I didn't know I had a 997 shifter. So you are right... the 997 one is green. Oh well.. I have a spare now!

  6. The PO put a 997 shifter in my 996. It's in perfect condition. I dissembled my console, no prob there.

    I bought the alignment tool. I get that it plums the shifter in the exact correct neutral position.

    Now, what method to adjust the cables?

    I'm guessing ...

    count/mark/photograph the current cable positions/notches (In case I bork it)

    Disconnect both.

    Shorten them one or two notches

    Try reconnecting until they just fit, increasing one notch at a time as I go. ?

    Again, this is a guess..

    If anyone really knows, I'd appreciate the input

    Thanks

    Jeff

    post-82645-0-98239800-1358443407_thumb.j

  7. I hooked up my Durametric cable on my 99 C2 cab the other day.

    I checked the engine error codes section. Error P1531 - (Camshaft Adjustment Bank 1). This was not here the last two times I checked. Actually the only two times I checked.

    No CEL light on the dash though.

    I cleared the code and drove it another day. Same error on Durametric but again no CEL light.

    Does the CEL light have a certain threshold (ie error code persisting for xx seconds or something) before lightning up indicating an issue? The car seems to idle and run up fine.

    I googled and they said check the wiring harness to the solenoid & actuator. Where is this? I have the Bentley book but could not fine where it mentioned the Variocam actuator and electrical connector.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks

    Jeff

  8. I get an squeal from low speed braking occasionally. It's when applying the same amount of pressure coming to a full stop. I changed pads, rotors and vibration dampeners, all new. I did a the bedding procedure for the brakes. Other then this occasional squeal, they work great.

    I did not use any CRC brake quiet or similar product. I was told the vibration dampeners made that unnecessary.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks.

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