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1dmurrray

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Posts posted by 1dmurrray

  1. Drive it first to see if you like it. I would suggest driving a few before making a final decision. There are lots of 996s out there. If you like the way it drives, get a PPI as recommended by Logray. The PPI will pay for itself in negotiating the final price.

    If the seller won't agree to a PPI, walk away. Also, make sure the PPI includes overrev and cam displacement readings.

    At 86K, you may need engine mounts, clutch, brakes/rotors, water pump, fluid changes, struts, spark plugs (it adds up quick). Factor all of that into your purchase price. A good PPI should let you know what needs fixin.

    BTW, I have an '01 C4. Love it. Makes me smile every time I drive it.

  2. It's probably similar to the 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/50-996-jackstand-placement. There is some controversy over using the engine case to jack the rear. After I jack each side from the rear jack point, I put stands in the front and tire ramps under the rear tires. This gives me plenty of clearance to reach the suspension cross member (Bentley manual recommended jack point) with the jack from the rear. Then, I can insert the rear jack stands under the rear jack points, and remove the ramps, if necessary. It doesn't take any longer with the ramps, which I got on sale for $40.

  3. I did it myself. Remove rear bumper cover and heat shields. Muffler bolts may be rusted, so either spray with liquid wrench or heat with torch. Do one or the other. There might be a DIY on here. I replaced all the bolts while I had them off. Fister does a fast turn around and quality work. I bought my bolts and couplings from Fister. He was cheaper than most places. If you haven't done it, replace your spark plugs while your mufflers are off. It makes that job easier.http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42727-muffler-clamp-replacement/?hl=%2Bremoving+%2Bmufflers

    It looks like I have a new project. Thanks.

  4. I just put the Schnell kit on my '01 C4. I am using a stock paper air filter, and I like the throatier intake sound.

    I cleaned the throttle body at the same time. There is a DIY tutorial for this. Highly recommended. Engine purrs like a kitten now. Idle, acceleration and deceleration are much smoother.

    I would like to try the Fister modified mufflers for the 996. $265 with core exchange. http://fdmotorsports.net/fister-exhaust-996

  5. I just cleaned the throttle body on my '01 C4 with CRC throttle body cleaner. I sprayed the cleaner on a microfiber rag, and wiped out all the dirt. The engine now purrs like a kitten, and idle, acceleration and deceleration are much smother. Great DIY. Thanks.

    While I was at it, I put on a Schnell air intake kit. I prefer the throatier intake sound to the stock set up.

  6. Gentex Auto-Dimming Mirror with Homelink Install


    While looking for a good garage door opening solution for my MY01 996 C4, I came across some posts referring to the Gentex auto-dimming mirror with Homelink. Some posts suggested that there was a VW/Audi adapter that would allow this universal fit mirror to be installed on a 996 windshield. Other posts suggested that it was easy to tap into the existing dome light and sunroof switch wiring. So I decided to give it a go. It was a relatively easy install, and one of my best mods yet. Step 1:

     

  7. No replacement tips. I just replaced my passenger side nozzle. I paid $144 and change shipped from Sonnen Porsche. Replacement is fairly easy. You remove the headlight to access the nozzle, The hardest part was getting the original hose clamp off. Since I never use these washers, I seriously considered removing the nozzles, plugging the hoses, and replacing the headlight triangles with the ones that don't have holes. At http://www.suncoastparts.com/ the triangles will run you $52 a piece.

  8. I just completed installation of the made in Taiwan smoke led tail lights on my MY01 C4, and I wanted to share some information I hadn't seen elsewhere. I have also attached some photos: (1) before; (2) half and half; (3) & (4) after; (5) connection diagram for new tail light housing; (6) transparency problem; (7) - (9) truck door edge guard solution.

    With respect to the small side marker bulb wire that has caused some to blow fuses, I just lined up the red wires on the male and female ends and plugged them together (photo 5). No blown fuses, hyperflash or ABS/PSM warning lights.

    I had not seen a good diagram of how to hook up the the lights on the new tail light housing, so I have labelled how I hooked them up in photo 5 (note: top of photo is bottom of tail light housing). In a nutshell: (1) small side marker bulb wires (far left) plug into the corresponding wiring harness connectors (as others have commented, this does not get plugged back into the socket); (2) double light led leads connect to black brake/tail light harness sockets; (3) single light led leads connect to orange turn signal harness sockets; (4) existing reverse light sockets and bulbs are connected to the lower (top of photo) clear chamber; and (5) fog light sockets are connected to the upper (bottom of photo) clear chamber (I used the amber turn signal bulb for the fog light on the driver's side so it would not be confused with a reverse light).

    After installing the new tail light housings, I discovered a design flaw: unlike the stock lenses, the aftermarket lenses (at least the smoke ones) are transparent at the edge. As a result you can see the unfinished edge of rear quarter panel and the tail light connecting grommet through the lenses (photo 6). After my initial disappointment, I started to think about a solution since I really liked the lenses otherwise. Initially, I thought about using lens tint spray to darken the edges. Given the limited space to work for proper taping, the fact that the surface is grooved, and that this solution would be non-reversible, I decided to use a different approach.

    Door edge molding to the rescue (photos 7-9). Applying black rubber door edge molding to the unfinished edge under the lenses provides a finished look and hides the transition from the body to the lenses. This was a relatively easy fix, and I am pleased with the result.

    Overall, I really like the look and functionality of the new tail lights.

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