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1dmurrray

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About 1dmurrray

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    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    New Jersey
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Carrera 4

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919 profile views
  1. I have them on my 2001 C4 (225s in front 295s in rear), and I like them. Low noise and great performance at a very good price.
  2. I tried muscling up and down, but couldn't get it to line up. I figured I could thread in a short stud if I didn't have to line it up through the front bracket, but I am going to try threading a short bolt through from the backside first. Once the bolt/stud is through, I can use a drift to punch the bushing back. That's the plan anyway. I'm going to work on it tomorrow. Update: Job is done. Not enough room to thread from the back without removing coolant hose and oil tube. I ended up using the drift punch as an alignment tool on the front bracket and got it to line up after several adjustments. If I were to do this again, I would release the bushing before removing the bolt.
  3. Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks. The idea is from another forum member "swaff" and he said it works well. I've never tried that but it makes sense to me that it should work well. Yes, inserting an M10 and punching it from the front may work too. Since the alternator is out, you have all the room in the world to attack it. Unfortunately, the alternator is not out, so space is going to be an issue.
  4. Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks.
  5. I ran into a problem trying to replace the upper idler pulley on my 2001 996 C4. I removed the bolt that secures the upper pulley and the alternator, but I could not get the bolt to line up going back in. I did not release the alternator mount bushing before removing the bolt, so I can't rotate the alternator up to start the bolt. I tried loosening the bottom alternator bolt and prying/tapping the alternator up and down slightly to help with aligning the bolt, but it does not want to line up. I was thinking of getting a scrap M10 stud that i could try to thread in to attempt to release the bushing. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know. Thanks.
  6. You could also try a single din unit with a proclip or other holder for your smart phone (which updates nav maps automatically). http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46623-anyone-suggest-a-good-holder-for-my-iphone/?p=254794
  7. According to published data, a GT can beat a regular 996 but can't touch the 996 TT. The latest GT500 can take a 996 TT in a straight line. 997TT depends on the driver. 991 Turbo S wins hands down. Any Porsche easily out handles any Mustang. 2013 GT500 0-60 3.5 QM 11.6 2011 GT500 0-60 4.1 QM 12.4 2013 GT 0-60 QM 4.3 QM 12.7 2014 Porsche 911 Turbo S 0-60 mph 2.6 Quarter Mile 10.9 2006 Porsche 911 Turbo 0-60 mph 3.5 Quarter mile 11.8 2001 Porsche 911 Turbo 0-60 mph 3.8 Quarter mile 12.1 2001 Porsche 911 Carrera 0-60 mph 4.5 Quarter Mile 12.9
  8. Here's the proclip in a 996. The 997 mount is probably similar. Not a fan of the binnacle mount. ;)
  9. Proclip is the best in my book. The product is actually made in Sweden. I suspect there is a UK distributor, or try proclipusa.com
  10. Based on my research, I wasn't expecting much from the tune on the 3.4 engine. I chose the Softronic tune because the principal there was a technical advisor to PCA. Why bother? Truth be told, I like fiddling and there's really not too much to fiddle with on these cars (that's why I got the Vette). Having now exhausted the fiddling options on my C4, I guess it might be time for some DE. :drive:
  11. FWIW, I wasn't claiming any performance gains from the air filter or mufflers. My intent was to point out that the car was essentially stock (other than improved sound) before the tune. Just reporting my experience. No axe to grind. The TT is a supercar and a blast to drive. 50% more HP for 50% more money. Maybe some day, but I'm in no hurry to part with my C4. My favorite mods: ROW M030 suspension and 997 shifter.
  12. I am a skeptic when it comes to "easy" power mods, but I like to try things out too. My '01 C4 (MK2 PSE mufflers and K&N air filter) was getting jealous of a '96 Vette project, so I decided to give it a Softronic tune, which promises about a 22 HP gain. I can't vouch for any power gain as I don't have a dyno, but the car is definitely running better than ever. Maybe it's all in my head, but that might be worth the cost too. The Softronic tune comes with a Durametric cable (single vin?), so factor that into the price (there is a discount if you already have the cable), and the tune is reversible, so you can go back to the stock map for DMV inspections, if necessary. If you are curious, and it's not going to break the bank, you might give it a try. I did. Just my two cents.
  13. I put a 997 shifter in my 01 996 C4. Tremendous improvement. I think it was a little over $200. TT might be different. Easy DIY.
  14. I had the same issue on cylinder 4. Replaced the coil. No problems since. The 4 coil was a real PITA, but doable without removing the muffler.
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