violaGT3

Possibly too many race starts ramming it into 2nd gear over the years has worn the 2nd gear syncro. Causing baulking when trying to change gear, usually starts with getting hard into gear when cold & gets better as car warms up.

Well I know the car was more then likely sported before I got it. But I could not pass on it due to all the money invested in it and it had everything I wanted. I talked with the guys at Imagine Auto and it was said that 2nd gear is troublesome with 911's up to 02, 6spd's that is. So I'll just try the fixer repairs and keep looking for a replacement. Thanks

Hey, just to let you know you are not alone on this I just posted yesterday on this exact same thing in my 99 C2. As a matter of fact I have a couple of responses you might want to look down the page at please help 6 spd problem. JR

Do either of you have the short shifter fitted to your cars ?

Nope, I don't have a short shifter. My car is completely stock.

I do have a B&M on mine. I spent an entire night driving and dialing it in thinking something could have slipped up but all the gears are fine cept 2nd.

I had real problems with my car when it was cold and had the fluid changed to BG brand fluid. It was a huge difference in both the shifting and the prevention of the popping out of gear (2d only) when cold. Highly recommend it!

Hi BG huh never heard of it. Where can you get it and is it a specialty oil like Lucas, or what's the difference between it and Shell? This is my exact problem, it has only jumped a couple of times but I just sit and wait for it to go into second which it has never grinded it only acts as though there is something in the way in the tranny. Thanks JR

Shortly after a new clutch installed by the dealer I noticed that my shifting was becoming more difficult and the clutch action was changing and especifically difficult to shift crisply when cold. I raised the car and checked a few things out. I found the two bolts that hold the front of the trans to the forward mount loose with the nuts less than finger tight. This was causing the power unit (motor and trans) to move around a lot especially when engaging the clutch. Another alarming problem is that the shift cables were not replaced in the housing holder bracket and just free floating. This made at least half of the shift with the lever wasted movement and made the new clutch feel like it was already worn out. I fixed these dealer oversights in a few minutes and now my shifting feels terrific but I do notice shifting in 2nd when cold or back to first is stiff. As the trans lube warms shifting is silky. I'd check out your cables and do a lube change.

Hmmm, not sure if the clutch was replaced, really. I will definately check on these things and I appreciate your sharing. I hope that this is not the problem. I'm in Baghdad right now and the car is having some work done to I just do not want it to have any problmes especially not the DT. Thanks

First thing I would do is, change the gear lube with Shell Transaxle Lube you can get at the dealer. A fresh oil can make a world of problems just disappear. Do not use Mobil gear lube or any other brand. Spend the $90 or so for 3 liters of Shell from the dealer.

Hey I will definately do this I may it just done at the shop is there a trans filter involved???

Hey, just to let you know you are not alone on this I just posted yesterday on this exact same thing in my 99 C2. As a matter of fact I have a couple of responses you might want to look down the page at please help 6 spd problem. JR

Hi, I am trying to figure out the best plan of attack for fixing one of my babies 99' c2 6sdp.

Here's the problem when the car is cold I have difficulty getting the car to shift in 2nd gear. The climate has a direct and profound effect on this, if it's see your breath cold, it's next to impossible to get it to shift into second until the car is fully warmed up and with this I mean only second everything else is as new. I tried tracing this through possible install error of the B&M but it's set to the macrometer. The problem existed when I bought the car I assume as I don't drive this one hard(only the GT3) but it was warm when I bought the car and frigid when I found out. O.K. now you have the gist of the details. Here's the Options:

1. Replace new.

2. Replace used.

3. pray alot and install a block heater.

4. Take to Mr. Tranny and keep praying(as my understanding is that only the GT3 trans is rebuildable)

I guess I would like some help clarifying a couple of things. I heard that the 99-02 6spds. all have this problem it is an engineering fault with the syncros? So can I take a 03+ 6spd. and bolt it on??? I've done swaps with some of my other cars but not with one of these. Don't know if there's another 3G's in connectors, cables, and brackets, I need to buy to do the swap. I don't know any of the prices for the trannies in comparison, or really how to go about this for that matter but this car is my alternate DD and I really love this car. SOme one please help me! TIA JR :help:

Hey Hey Hey, Love that boost! For 2 grand off the price you can count me in! I have tried to blow up Many-a-Mopars in my days and built a 6lb ram induction system, all of which I loved. and 1 out of seven I blew! ARP's don't break? NOT! they do at 32 lbs. of boost. Yes 32. SC's typically won't even come close to damaging a vehicles(good vehicle) internals as the PSI is very low considering. The biggest factor is whether it is properly calibrated so that you are not getting detonation "BIG TIME BAD NEWS" A well lubed engine as long as the temps are kept down and the motor is worth a hoot in the first place will have no problems, I would have to say that 911 engines are pretty well built.

Anyways ViolaGT3 wants in!

I think the wheel carriers are the main thing. Be careful out there.

That's great to hear, and thanks I will.

Hi, I want to put a set of 05 GT3 coilovers on my 99' C2 coupe 6spd. I am going to be putting the Big Reds on it also so if I am going to get the wheels carriers I would like to get anything else I would need at the same time.. TIA Jim

C'mon Loren, bless a guy in Baghdad with some of that knowledge, I have heard through others that the changing of some of the parts is required but in a thread I picked up it said the only difference was the carriers and that the coilovers on the GT3 were adjustable and those on the C2 were not. TIA Again

Hello All,

After doing a general service on my 996, I found that the pictured sensor is leaking. Does anyone know what this sensor is, if leakage here is common and what needs to be done to fix the oil leak? Thankyou!

....by the way, this sensor is located on the driver's side, behind the left rear tire and wheel and is just to the right of the coil spring on the engine case (the the left of the pictured "variocam" casting...

Hi I am not too knowledgable with Porsche but on some of my Italin cars and on most newer cars I see sensors in that location and they are for the cam position. The cam timing is independently variable by the brain. Again I don't have the direct Porsche knowledge as some like "Loren", but seeings where it is and there's a Vario Cam casting right there I would believe it is safe to assume it is the same. Jim

I agree with Viper, upgrading pads for track days makes a good difference. On a brake happy track like CMP in Kershaw, SC, some intensive driving (25 mins on-25 mins off) and no fade with pagid oranges and superblue fluid.

You really added 600 rwhp to a x1/9? Sorry to sound doubtful, but I recall them from High School being no more larger than my size 12 sandals. I imagine a jet engine with a lot of duct tape....... How you get there?

Hi, No issues believe me I understand. I'd have to say it's more like a 12.5 sandal though. I did not have access to any turbines then or who knows!?! I've owned quite a few and they end up being bought out from under me. Been tinkering since 93'. But to the Q at hand, 1st thing NO DUCT TAPE WAS USED! ha ha

It did involve some extensive rear end re-enforcements to handle the power of it's new Mopar 4cfed4 Turbo III engine from a 93' Tona, and then the later application of a disco potato, with an aussie engine mgt sys. The best I had built a 240+ hp Fiat engine with the help of Apple Motors but i just turned out to be more of a problem then it was worth as the tranny just turned to tin foil. So that is why I started searching and came up with the Trenton, it was reliable STRONG 225hp Stock (196whp), and there was an extensive following around southern Indiana. But all in all I now have My Porsche and I love it!!! I have already managed to disect everything but the engine and Imagine Auto is going to do that for me.

Just general FYI, The doghouse resonates terribly bad if you ever remove the rear carpet make sure you put some deadener all over it! made a tremendous difference in the brute sound of the engine!

While I like the 'bling' factor offered by the big turbo brakes, I don't know that they are really necessary, even on a s/c car, unless you're doing track time. I've pushed my C2 hard using upgraded pads and have not had any fade even in less than optimum conditions. The brakes really benefit from a pad upgrade. Given the costs associated with the upgrade to the turbos, I'd be inclined to give a pad change a try first. YMMV though.

Well if that be the case then I guess it'll be mostly for the bling. But I usually go to the extreme with upgrades, not sure why. But I do know on the days I do go to the track I like to shoot at the big boys. = )

I took a stock 105hp Bertone X1/9 and put 700rwhp in it with a few minor mods, again not sure why but it was great on the track days at a rolling 1,900lbs. Jim _

The only prob. is it likes to fly away from the competition! _--

While I like the 'bling' factor offered by the big turbo brakes, I don't know that they are really necessary, even on a s/c car, unless you're doing track time. I've pushed my C2 hard using upgraded pads and have not had any fade even in less than optimum conditions. The brakes really benefit from a pad upgrade. Given the costs associated with the upgrade to the turbos, I'd be inclined to give a pad change a try first. YMMV though.

Well if that be the case then I guess it'll be mostly for the bling. But I usually go to the extreme with upgrades, not sure why. But I do know on the days I do go to the track I like to shoot at the big boys. = )

I took a stock 105hp Bertone X1/9 and put 700rwhp in it with a few minor mods, again not sure why but it was great on the track days at a rolling 1,900lbs. Jim

The only prob. is it likes to fly away from the competition!

Response time can be a bit slow. My understanding is that the Turbo brakes were larger than the standard black C2 brakes. IIRC, you can't just bolt on the Turbo's brakes to a C2 but have to replace the spindle, or machine an adapter.

Hey thanks for the response, I know it can be a bit slow at times but often I am searching at the same time

trying different keywords. Most of te stuff I ran across was related to probs. not the difference. I am taking my 99C2 to the next level hopefully Stage II with all Fabspeed and a EVOM SC. So I wanted to make sure I can stop it efficiently incase my V1 lets me down. = ) Thanks Again! Jim

Found a good answer from two years ago Thanx

Hi just a quick Q Are 02 red turbo calipers better then The grey ones off a 99' C2?? The calipers look the same only the turbo ones are blazing red.?.

Might want to check other forums like www.6speedonline.com where they have discussed these extensively and comparison as well between EVO and TPC kit

Many Thanx, I will.

Hi, I found an article or two but they weren't much help. I have a 99' C2 coupe toy and well I am spending a small fortune on it and well I like the thought of having a bit more get up and go. Please let me know if you really

like the difference it made for you. I looked at the dyno' for it and well it seems that the grunt kicks in somewhere around autobahn speeds. Now I have a 6speed so I can enjoy abusing her a bit more then a Tippie, but really I would like to know if it is going to lite my fire. Also the reasoning is that My car was tuned by Champion Moto. and well the tucked rear 3pc forged champions rolling on 295/30/19 Pirelli's sometimes makes it a tad undertorqued to get the car rolling under normal driving conditions.

Many Thanks IA

I have a 99 c4 911 and I'm trying to replace the original ignition switch with the suggested replacement ignition switch according to the TSB number 2804. I have all the parts I need but I do not have the appropriate technical manuals. According to the TSB I need the following:

911 Carrera (996) Technical Manual,

Group 2:

> Repairs 28-1 - Removing and installing ignition switch

Group 4:

> Repairs: 48-19 Removing and installing lock barrel

48-21 Replacing steering lock

Does anyone have this section of the manual? I only have the Group 0 section of the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Me 2 Please. Thanks

When the fog lights are on the interior turnsignal flasher does not blink as it should. I notice a wierd/ odd light emmitting from the left turnsignal indicator. But when the fogs are off all seems to function as it should? and ideas here? TIA!

Also 99' C2 Coupe

Went out to get the skinny on the situation when the foglights themselves are turned on the drivers fog is dim and the left turn signal indicator inside the car is dimly lit, without the turn signal activated, with the turn sinal activated the front and rear signal lights are dimly lit constantly? the right signal functions as normal but the drivers/ left is definately not functioning properly. TIA, A.

got it sorted now...had to jiggle it around a bit and it was catching on the bumper.

Great! Mine was not so easy it appears the owner before me had a bit of difficulty and big tools around as well the mounting bracket was broken so he used a drywall screw and screwed the light to the bracket??? anyways $88 and 1 hours time and I put in a new one man they are tricky with thier 3 aligning nuts! Now it's going into Imagine Auto for a face lift and Xenon upgrade with a full paint and PSE! Woo Hoo!

I have the same "issue" with my '99 C4, and here's why I think it is "normal":

The rear camber (the amount that the rear wheels tip inward at the top) is specified by the factory as negative. The acceptable range is between -55 minutes and -1 degree 25 minutes. (Thus the total acceptable range spans 30 minutes, or 0.5 degrees.)

So, the rear wheels, if "aligned properly", are tipped inboard at the tops of the wheels. They do this, in my estimation, to achieve a particular handling balance, a particular feel, a particular level of performance during hard cornering and accident-avoidance maneuvers. It essentially "pre-loads" the rear tires so that even before you start turning, the tires are already digging in for "ultimate grip".

This setup also results in "ultimate tire wear", and this is why my dealership told me that, aside from driving their cars pretty hard, most 996 owners go through a set of tires every 10,000 to 12,000 miles. On my 18" rims, those rear tires, new, are about $600 a pair!!

Your car, if "aligned properly", is literally grinding up the rear tires with every revolution. You can feel the heat on the insides of the rear tires, but it is not all from engine heat - they truly are being ground down to nothing with every turn of the wheels. If your tires wear unevenly - the inside edges go first - then your alignment is probably "correct".

Dead on. I went through everything trying to find out why it seemed difficult to start a normal take off, while doing my inspections I noticed this same smell. I called some firends and they checked it out and concluded that it was due to the aggressive camber that my 295-30-19's were sitting on, as my c2 was lowered and tuned by Champion Motorsports it has resistance not onlt while taking off but also while rolling.

So yea it is not a critical problem. Unless you consider $440 a tire critical? :D

It looks like part of your wheel well lining is missing including the rubber lip that hangs down and the air duct for the brakes. Look at the wheel well lining diagrams and make all the parts are there. As I recall all of those items are held in place by a long self tapping screw that attaches to the bottom of the radiator bracket.

Hey Loren, you are right the hang down diffuser is missing, well most of it. My ground clearance is about 2.5 inches so I know why they are not there. It seems as though the rest is there except a un identifiable stud that a self threading nylon nut goes on to hold the well liner in place it is noted to be directly behind where the turn signal snaps in. I see a hole but not a stud nor where a stud could of possibly been? The Porsche liner schematic shows the nut but not the studs whereabouts. So can anyone identify the stud or bolt that is supposed to be here? TIA

Does the interior handle still workafter the tink? (but just not spring back?) If not, it will probably be the bowden cable between the handle and lock mechanism. It may be a spring in the handle or the lock mechanism. But it looks like you'll have to strip the door to investigate further.

However, the interior handle is listed as one part and the entire lock mechanism is listed as one part too (i.e. no replacement springs or other things...)

Sorry, quick edit, I've spotted a spring for the interior door handle, 999 522 015 00. May be broken or just need reseating.

Hey thanks your part # is right on the money. I have ordered the spring, but in the defense of Jerry riggin lovers like myself I stretched a couple of coils and bent a new curve at the broken end. This made it function as normal until the new one gets here or I guess until it fails again? As I am not looking forward to stressing my carbon fiber pulls again. Thanks again!

i am guessing your stereo installer screwed something up when putting the door panel back. i'd ask them to fix it if that's the case. the spring for the handle is pretty hard to unhook itself. the door panel takes 30 to remove and reinstall so it's pretty easy.

In defense of the installer (me) I would have to say, don't think so. But I cannot truely deny it, but it is not necessary to mess with the spring to remove the panel. I guess it just gave? Odd, yes, but I did not mess with it. But I appreciate the thought, I'll take it up with myself later if something else goes wrong?!?!

Here's the pic of the culprit. So if youu should here a tink noise when opening the door and the handle goes limp you'll know the problem.