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violaGT3

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Everything posted by violaGT3

  1. Yes that smell worried the hell out of me for a little while! Rossa's definitely make it feel like you were at the strip.
  2. With what Rhamilton is noting I wonder if it could be that the transponder it's self could be failed in the key??? Is there another way to test it's function, like with manually unlocking the door or something? Or do you have a spare key? Yea, that's fantastic yet another possible failure I hadn't even thought of. fun fun fun.
  3. Mine does not have a shield there. 99C2 But, with that said my car is very aggressively lowered. My 295-30-19's are nearly fully tucked in the quarter. SO I wouldn't know if something was removed to clear the suspension tuning.
  4. Holy Poo! That is a lot of miles! Wow! Yea, there are going to be a few things to consider in that. Dharn55 may be on the money, I am not familiar with where the starter is on these yet as I have a Guru service mine. But it might be worth while to use jumper cables to positive pole on the starter to see if it is good. Typically the starter is a tell tale, in that either the solenoid fails or the motor fails, so either you get a click, or a buzz like turning sound, both at the same time is normally a stretch but with that many miles, the towel may have been thrown in. I would "assume"
  5. I am not a Guru, but I would start by checking the silenoid and the relay(listen for action"click) Then I would suspect the IGN switch. I am sure someone will chime in once they get off work and help further. P.S. It would be good of you to post year, C2/C4, mileage, recent work done(for instance disconnected battery and possibly left terminal loose AMPS) GL
  6. You may want to look into the Bearing update for the tranny. Mine acted like 2nd synchro but it was the bearing. This is a well known issue. Felt as though the shifter needed to go another 1/2 inch to get it in gear, if you shifted just quick enough it would take, but would tend to pop out. Good luck with it!
  7. Well, I guess I am in the clear on this one as of now. I have Karl Wilen doing a slew of maintenance including sending the tranny to G-Box to update the bearing and clean it up, oh and toss in a Reiken LSD, as well as handle some other things like the IMS/RMS and all the usuals. He let me know that my engine is an 01' or later motor(tensioner pulley difference?), so apparently either it blew before 02' when I bought it, or Champion updated it before I bought it? Either way Karl is giving a nasty little breathe of life back to her. He recommended LWFW and a GT spec clutch to complement
  8. My buddy burnt out a piston due to a failing injector. Not sure if it would crack the piston but then again at 3krpms I am not sure if anything wouldn't crack a rogue piston. Sad to hear it.
  9. Alright, I give, I have documented everything so far and I am having no luck. The brake lines are a bear, no give. I have removed the distribution block mount nuts. Freeing it helped to get the MC out of the booster but it is still pinned against it. I am sure that with a little elbow grease I can get it free. Now all this is useless as I cannot get the rod to disconnect from the bridge. It just keeps spinning like it is e-clipped in there. I have at this point cut both boots/bellows and can see all that one would need to see. On the end of the new booster assembly there is a rod with
  10. Hey Loren any ideas on how these two conect? I am messing with the rod between the booster and the pedal. There are two nuts one big and one thin. I loosened the thin one and backed it up a bit and all attempts to loosen the other one have been useless. It seems the the rod/shaft just keeps turning. Does the big nut thread back like the thin one or is it supposed to thread towards the other direction. I am leary of grabbing the rod with some vice grips without know which way to take it. Common sense tells me it follows the thin nut, but I am not sure that "it" knows that?
  11. Glad to hear it! I don't know how mine runs at 65mph, as I am usually just getting out of the intersection at that speed! J/K You might say I enjoy a vehilce that superceeds it's funtion too
  12. :offtopic: I stoppped by the BMW dealer today to return the big bow borrowed to surprise the wife. I took a seat in the new Z4 Coupe - much smaller than an M5! The local paper's auto writer called it the "Cayman killer" at $20K less and 255 HP. I can't believe I can buy a brand new 2007 Z4 for the same price I paid for my 99 C2 three years ago. Humm.... Someone dropped him on his head as a child :beer: MY99 C2 82,000. Bought it with 78,000. Replaced clutch, light weight fly wheel, redid exhaust (headers,muffler and cat by pass). No oil leaks or oil comsumption. Unfurtunately, I
  13. Okay, apparently I need a DIY on how to search! I did a search for Brake in the DIY forum and read through 4 pages of stuff none containing any of this. . . :unsure: Thanks Again Loren! If you were a woman I would propose.:thumbup: Found my folley, this is under the boxster section. Didn't check there.
  14. I have not played with the brakes for 2 years and for some reason the fluid level has increased. The temp. here is lower than it has been in a while sub 100 degrees, it's about 80 right now is it possible that the fluid is retaining heat and thus expanded? Planning on a flush after replacing the booster just noticedthe level was high, while prepping to replace thebooster as thepedal has been hanging and running away from my foot, causing jerky braking and failure to release without pulling the pedal back with my foot. TIA
  15. Hi all as per suggestions here I am ready to attempt to replace my brake booster. . . That being said I have the compartment cover removed and I am seeing very short hard lines to the control module. My concerns are is it necessary to open the fluid system to replace the booster, are there any unique tools needed and can it be done neatly? I am an experienced hobby mech, I have built turbo'd drag cars, know my way around an engine, played the solo 1 circuit, I just tend to steer clear of things I cannot do forward and backwards in my mind. Also I do not want to tear it down and find a s
  16. Wow that's impressive I hope I see that many miles out of mine! Although the odds aren't in my favor a 2kmls. per year. Just @ 80k now. bought it with 60k about ten years ago. Make sure you post your findings, but I chance to say with that many miles it may verywell be time for a rebuild/replace.
  17. I hope it's not anything major, but you might try jackstanding the rear end and running her through a few gears checking the housings with a stethescope. Our 11' Outback has a noisy tranny, my Porsche doesn't. Also a fluid change could tell you alot.
  18. I'll look into this tomorrow thanks for the heads up on the how to and the info.
  19. Well it sounds like you are well on your your way to becoming a Porsche nut. Make sure you post some of the after shots so we can be envious!
  20. Hmm, hard to diagnose without more goodies. Squeaking, at bumps? constant? I tend to check brakes when my frinds tell me front end squeaks. When Power hoses fail they can leave the inner pad(most often) slightly engaged also when pads are nearly done they can lean into the rotor. Thus shining it and causing it to squeal/squeak semi uniformly. Non constant squeaking can be from a multitude of thing from upper mounts, to warn control are bushings. Best of luck let up know what you find.
  21. Hi, From the video, I hear a couple of things. I immediately think stuck/bent valve. I would make a personal recommendation to properly put Marvelous Mystery oil into your crank case and run it a little. Again that is a personal recommendation, I am not a certified mechanic. Just a guy who's played with motors for the past 25 years. But with that being said it could be a loose injector being popped into the retainer and sucked back in, or it could be that you torqued your ratchet on a pully nut and forgot it and now it is smacking the ***** out of your rear end. You can do a missfire
  22. Here's a supplier, in Prague Czech Republic but he'd probably be better off sourcing the parts out of Deustchland. It would be hard to find a used case itself without the internals. Besides German dealers closeout old parts due to no storage room. You may get lucky. I have family in Vysoke Myto and I remember it being a pain and silly expensive to get parts in CZ due to rediculous mark ups by the breakers. Good Luck. PORSCHE INTER AUTO CZ SPOL. S R.O. Vrchlického 31/18 150 00 Praha 5 CZECH REP. workTel: +420 257 10 71 11 faxFax: +420 257 10 79 99 Or you can ask in the Por
  23. Okay I've had a little more time driving to better describe the happenings. The first half of the pedal travel is acting like there is air in the system, but oddly enough the pedal "hangs" at the half way point(point where breaking begins) and I notice that I can pull it back with my foot and all is good but if it stays at the halfway mark then the brakes are minorly engaged. All thoughts are appreciated. Also on the SBJ I am currently looking for a set of SS brake lines any recommendations? 77K, 99C2, EVOM'd and Champ'd to the hilt. N/A Any ideas on how to check if there is water in
  24. Well, Well, Well. I would put my wooden nickel on the throw out bearing. With car running have someone listen carefully by the rear tire depress clutch, hold, release, repeat. you should be able to hear what is definately called a "droning" noise while clutch is released.
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