violaGT3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV8PpKJ8Gzg...feature=related

My car makes this odd tapping noise when starting. No other time you can hear it in this You tube clip.

Just as he is starting you'll notice a loud quick burst of defined tapping. It kind of sounds like when you pull the hand brake quickly.

Many Thanks and Happy Holidays!

sounds like a starter motor fault like the cog not retracting fast enough best take it to a specialist

You really think so? It's hard for me to imagine the starter gear making that loud of a noise. It sounds comparable to a bad rod.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV8PpKJ8Gzg...feature=related

My car makes this odd tapping noise when starting. No other time you can hear it in this You tube clip.

Just as he is starting you'll notice a loud quick burst of defined tapping. It kind of sounds like when you pull the hand brake quickly.

Many Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Ahhhhh.

Just WD40'd it and tried to move it the lever with a spanner and had success with it moving no problem, only to then discover a minute later that the lever that comes out of that is driven by the vacuum has snapped off the valve arm (I assume its some sort of very small ball joint?).

I'm sure there is no easy way to fix this either!

Attached a picture which is bad quality but at least show what I have done.

I guess it shouldn't matter to me for now as I don't intend to try to wire up a switch or anything for the moment anyway so would have been leaving the valve open anyway, but am very peeved with myself!

If you are handy with a drill, High Carbon Bits, and Grade 8 machine bolts then use a "little" JB Weld to freeze the ball, then with cutting oil slowly drill it and tap it. then drill out the base (or drill and tap it) and use the bolt, lock washer, and a nut to form your new ball joint. If you are into looks then when you are done you can use a little JB Weld to re-enforce the bolt and even grind it down to look like to the original. But when all is said and done with just use good channel locks to break the JB Weld from the ball. Voila!

what up

recently purchased 02 996 cabrio with 39k on her in august of 07. here we are in december of 07 and now the clutch needs to be replaced with only 44k on her and i don't drive her that hard xD anyway looking to replace clutch and flywheel (dual mass) to some kind of SPORT clutch or STAGE 1 clutch kit with lightweight flywheel and have been reading quite a bit on this subject. i think i won't mind the clutch chatter but engine stalling at a stop is not something i want to deal with nor the check engine light on 24/7. i have a few questions:

1) where is a darn 02-04 996 shop manual? can't find this thing anywhere but got one for the 99-01 996 if anyone is interested, pm me

2) suggestion on clutch kit (looking at SACHS, read good things about them but open to other brands)

3) suggestion on flywheel (looking at Fidanza)

C'mon guys I am shopping for a new clutch now too. Any tips, Brands, anything?

Hi I just put a new set of the new Bridgestone RE960's on my 00'. They are very good so far. I have not had them in the snow yet and I do hope to keep it that way. They have pretty good dry traction, not quite as good as the P-zeros I had on before but in their defense they have not had time to camber in yet. They have had very good wet traction. They ride pretty quiet also but there is only 800 miles on them now.

I am running 295/30/19's tucked in the rear and 245/35/19's in the front. I would recommend them. Oh yea, they cost about $400 less a set also.

HTH

Hi I have 235-35-19/295-30-19's and this setup works well on my C2. You should not have and rubbing issues if your wheels are the correct offset. I could actually go with the 305's without a problem and my car is significantly lowered. The rear tire is actually tucked. But my suspension was tuned professionally, so my camber is corrected for it. HTH

Hey All. I was out driving around KC and I found a part of the road that they apparently were doing repairs on as there was a 3" upward lip in the road(there were no markers, signs or otherwise). Well my Porsche sits right at 2-1/2-3" off the road. So I got a slight airborne moment and came down with a passenger door rattle and now the window hangs up when opening the door. I have today free so I want to get in there to set it straight. I know I have seen the info here before when I adjusted the driver door's window. But I cannot seem to find it. Also if anyone can help me to locate any and all of the rattle fixes. I would appreciate it. I have already done 5 searches and come up with 0 reply threads ie no one replied to the person's question. Thanks!

I'm thinking about taking on this endeavor as m the local dealership was supposed to change it when they installed a replacement compressor, and they did not and now they tell me it'll cost $400 more to do it. Believe me I am looking for my copy of the work order but I cannot find it. Also can anyone tell me the time and cost of the dealer doing it. Thanks

I found this on ebay and I am considering to purchase. The price is really much lower than here in Europe. Does anyone have experience about this seller ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWA:VRI

I have a friend in NC that I will visit in about a months time and I am thinking to ship to him and then bring it as luggage home. How much weight is the box?

Regards,

Niclas

I have been a ebay seller for about 7 years and I would have to say that it is legit I would call and check on availability to ensure they'll be there in time. That is a really good price, but I would definitely pay through Paypal. Then you'll be covered by their protection policy and they worst case scenario you would have to ship them back to them at your expense+/- $60. I shipped my stock GT3 coilovers to a guy in Cali. for around $50. But it all depends on the size of the box I believe they were about 45lbs. 20kilos +/-. HTH

My car is at the dealer for some maintenance (not battery related) and the tech noticed that the car had trouble starting. He thinks the battery is on the way out. I just installed a brand new Optima 34R a couple of months ago so it seems a little strange if the battery is not holding a charge. Anyone have a similar experience? Is it an Optima thing, or Porsche thing or something else?

I put a 34r in my car I bought at a speed shop and the car was garaged for 6 months while I was overseas and when I came home the battery was dead. Took it to parts place they said it was bad. The speed shop was closed down, out of business I now have a dead 34r in my garage. DFon't know what to do about it? don't know why it failed. Porsche dealer tested the car they said that there was no abnormal power draw. So I bought a Advanced auto gold and haven't had a problem one. Good Luck

If you ask the people at home depot there is a adhesive neutralizing product they have that is really good. It basically smells like kerosene, but you just squirt a little onto the top edge, give it a second and then using the attached to the bottle plastic scraper get under the adhesive goo and then one more squirt and it'll come right up. The best part is that the adhesive neutralizing is only temporary so after you get it off the car it is ready to go back on in a minute or so. The dental floss method is effective if you are careful if not the adhesive on one end can cause you to pry into the paint on the opposite end from which you are lifting. Kind of like opening a soda can. I've de-badged all of my cars just something I picked up in Germany.

Visited the dealer today. The pedal is somewhat heavy, but there's no slipping and no throw-out bearing noise. They stated that it's normal for the pedal to get heavy as the clutch ages and dirt (dirt?) builds up. The car has 38k miles on it. They think it might be the clutch failing to disengage fully when depressed. This sound plausible?

Hi, I am in the same boat, I have found out the following about this problem: Pedal is heavy due to warping of the throw-out arm(Not sure on the exact name)but our tech shop out here said it is common, and there is an upgraded part that is cheap $15 or so that should be replaced when you swap the clutch. My clutch is not failing to dis-engage or re-engage, but I do imagine it might be time to replace, I followed the advisement of some of the guys in here on fluids that might help the sync's, and while it did help some, the problem is still there. The fluid's recommended were B&G syncroshift fluid and LSD additive. I can now with some degree ease(now being after a bit of time for it to work itself in) quick shift like I'm on the drag strip (the only issue is coming down into second sometimes) I have to say with the feeling of the thing that sadly I believe it to be a bearing issue, or something along those lines. I can feel a degree of give in the shift, before I just believed that the shifter was not fully engaging the gear, well after all the testing and the feeling out of it I do believe I will have to send it to Power Haus to be reworked.

I only say this as after I picked my car up from the paint shop where it had not been driven for 2 weeks I got in it and it shifted like a champ. Here's the back drop to this, I had the dealer put the tranny fluid in and they told me that it was a little over .5 liters low a few days before, then with the car not being driven for two weeks while at the paint shop, I assume that all the fluid seeped off the gears and it performed flawlessly, but once I drove it a bit it went back to the issues. and stayed that way when I filled it to the proper level. You can see if yours is reacting the same way by simply slinging it out of first and into second(if you pay close attention to the feeling of it you'll notice there's a bump in the 2nd gear engagement) and releasing the clutch, you'll be doing it right if you hit the clutch, shift, and release within 1 second. It sounds extreme but it is the safest way to start out you'll get a feel for it over time, or you can just find the time and pony up the dough to get it fixed or replaced. If it helps I am told that the 2003 6spd. addressed this issue and it is no longer a problem. HTH

I would have to agree about the Ice, I applied it to half my wing and had my older NXT on the other side and I saw no difference between the two other than it was pretty easy to apply the Ice. I have used Meguiar's for years and Really like there NXT line, the tire coating is bar none the best I have used. Their touch up quick detailer does good for a shine in 10 minutes. I would be open to test any products out that claim to be better. I do use NanoPolish from Eagle 1 to maintain my Forged wheels it is the best I have tried in standing the test of time. I also tried the back to black, rubber/plastic re-finisher. It made a difference that lasted about 3 weeks only on hard plastics (wiper cowling). Haven't reapplied yet but they say that if regularly maintained that it will over time improve the luster back to original(could believe that if there is only minimal fading). The rubber trim was a waste of my time it showed minimal to no improvements and was a general disappointment.

I have been round and round with my local Porshce dealer since a wreck about a year ago. My last issue was the V1 radar detector that they say was destroyed in the wreck. While they were replacing it they sent it to another shop. Once I recieved the car back I noticed the bracket were the top latches was loose. This was causing the windows to go crazy and I noticed the latch point was loose. It appears as though whoever was working on the radar detector had removed this and put it back minus a screw. They evidently took it out to remove the missing sensor that I noticed was gone after I saw the thing moving when I tried to close the top.

This is fixed, but I noticed that a sensor that was on the windshield is missing. I do not know what it was for and was hoping some one could identify it for me.

It was dark grey or black and had a wire that ran into the latch cover. It was about three inches long and about the size of a pencil. It had a symbol on it that as best I can remember was a y with a circle around it. It was attached to the windshield just above the rearview mirror. It is gone know and I am needing to figure out what it was as the Porshe place says it was not a temp or rain sensor. I don't know, I don't believe it was a rain sensor as I did not have this option. I figured it was part of the temp sensor that reads on the dash, but they say not. I just need to figure out what it was so I will know if it is OK that it is gone.

2000 C4 Cab

Please help.

Steve

I have seen microphones that fit that description on some of the higher end hands free units. HTH.

Well isn't that special. It's good to hear you are getting it taken care of, but it sucks that you had to play games with Brandywine. I just would not bother with anyone who told me I "had" to wire funds, period. It seems as though I am going to just leave the engine replacement for the day it croaks. Although it started odd the other day, it was real rough for the first 15sec or so? Dunno, but it still performs well so I'll just hit up the tranny and clutch. If you would post the final figures on the replacement.

I'm not an car insurance or body shop expert by any means, but it seems that a $30,000+ vehicle has a higher threshold of damage and repair costs before it can be called totalled, as compared to a $2000 Honda Civic. Can't this vehicle be repaired by a good body shop?

What has your insurance company said regarding the newly installed engine? Will they give you extra above Kelley Blue Book?

What happened to you could happen to any one of us. It's a real shame.

Scratch the thought of trying to get them to repair it however immaculate it was. That is an ugly story and the ending to my M5. Do your best to find a car that you like and start the talks about that's what you want. Always better to settle down than begin there. "GT seems like a good place to start j/k."

And to help JohnJ there are tolerances allowed in frame damage, they cannot cut and weld at stress points/ joints my front end was damaged much like the one in the pics but it was the left hand side and it kinked the frame in a sweet spot and they totaled my 2 year old M5, and it was immaculate had only 15k kilometers.

I have always had great experiences with Oklahoma Foreign. It is nice that they are only a days shipping away as well. You might want to give them a call next time around.

Todd

I have them also I picked up a OEM lower engine splash guard and pla on picking up some other bits too. I am going to just get a new compressor this time around and avoid the headaches. Thanks

Hi all.

well here's a follow up to my buying of a used A/C compressor from LA Porsche dismantler. They said the unit had 18kmls on it and it was good to go. Well I had the dealer install it 3 months ago. When I went to pick up the car the dealer told me that the system held about 50lbs under what it should, and at that time I explained to them that it had 18kmls on it. Well they gave me an odd look. The dealer said it was definately older than 18kmls. So now here it is right in the middle of summer and my A/C is failing! At it's coldest it hits about 70 degrees. So I would recommend as was recommended to me to avoid LA Porsche dismantler. My lack of faith and brownie points with the Mrs, is now going to cost me twice the original cost of replacing that compressor with a new one. :rolleyes:

Sorry you had to learn the hard way, if you complain to them they will most likely send you another old part. Be advised that a junk dealer has no way of testing something before you get it. That A/C compressor could have come for a drown porsche in Louisiana. I'm very surprised that the dealer would use a used part like that. There is an alternative buy a service manual, tools and do your own work. In the process you will learn a great deal about the design of these fine automobiles.

PS I just got my AC clutch replaced by the dealer it was a grand for that. Porsches are not cheap thats for sure. :oops:

D

I had truely thought about doing it myself but it was a time concern. I have a Porsche CD set with all the breakdowns on them, but I was concerned with ensuring all was clean with the lines and it was charged properly. As for the rest of the issues I attempt to tackle it myself and you guys have made that ever so easier. Many thanks :renntech:

Hi all.

well here's a follow up to my buying of a used A/C compressor from LA Porsche dismantler. They said the unit had 18kmls on it and it was good to go. Well I had the dealer install it 3 months ago. When I went to pick up the car the dealer told me that the system held about 50lbs under what it should, and at that time I explained to them that it had 18kmls on it. Well they gave me an odd look. The dealer said it was definately older than 18kmls. So now here it is right in the middle of summer and my A/C is failing! At it's coldest it hits about 70 degrees. So I would recommend as was recommended to me to avoid LA Porsche dismantler. My lack of faith and brownie points with the Mrs, is now going to cost me twice the original cost of replacing that compressor with a new one. :rolleyes:

I still have the original with just under 50000 miles problem where 1RMS, 1MAF. Drive on Autobahn 2-3 times a week.

Man I have to say I am pleased to see these results! I know I am definately getting close to replacing the clutch/RMS/any other anomaly they should run into.

So it is nice to thik that I might be ablr to hang on to the 3.4l, But I am keeping in mind that the only thing mechanical components are gaurenteed to do is break. Keep'em rollin' :renntech:

Welcome to the neighborhood! I must say you certainly know how to make an entrance. That is a unique and beautiful Porsche, I would be a little envious if it wasn't that color combo (horrible past with red cars!). Have fun and watch out for Ford Tauruses.

Hi Everyone,

Sorry for the ignorance, but I've read a lot about the throttle body, etc. But, which part is it exactly under the hood? Could someone please post a pic?

I'm asking because I'm taking everyone's advice to take it apart to clean the butterfly and the general area to see if I can improve the idling on the car. I've also got a rough idea where the MAF is and have looked at a bunch of other posts on how to clean it, etc. Am I missing any other preventative maintenance stuff for the idling???

I've owned the car for about 4 months and don't know if the previous owner's did this, so i'm kind of playing catch up to make sure this baby is being taken care of from now on!

Thanks!

It is an easy find it is the part that the flexible air hose coming off the MAF and the filter box. You can recognize it by finding the accelerator cable gear. If you remove the hose you can see the butterfly. HTH

I have a charging problem with my Porsche 2000 996. If I charge battery the meter reads 14 volts for a while then goes to 10 volts and all kinds of lights go on. I had the battery tested good. Removed alternator and it tested good at Auto Zone. I checked wiring from alternator to battery ...tested good. Could it be that the test at Auto Zone was not accurate? Any ideas? Is there any fuses to the regulator that controls the alternator?

Grounds, grounds, grounds, depending on the weather where you are ground wires can become dirty causing issues with charging. Disconnect them clean the contact surface, and if you do not see an improvement get the battery. I put a Red Top in my car, it failed while parked in my garage while I was in Baghdad and now the shop I bought it from is closed. SO I put a Advance Auto Gold in there with warranty coverage, and I have not had 1 issue.

At its recent annual service the technician stated that my clutch had less than 2,000Km life on it. The car has covered 28,000Km (17,500 miles) so far albeit I bought it last Jan with 15,500Km showing.

The car also has a relatively high oil consumption e.g. 1 Litre Mobil per 1,000KM (625 miles). I am told this is just within Porsche tolerances and am quite relaxed about this as all 911 engines would seem to be "individuals"!!

Are the above oil/clutch factors linked??

Appreciate any considered comments.

PS I love my car especially with its new Italian rubber!! :D :rolleyes:

Hey if that be the case you have some issues. I do not lose 2 oz. of oil between changes (5kmiles) and I run the recommended 0w40 Mobile1 in my 99 @75K+ miles. As for the clutch could be up-selling, you know 2, 000miles, 20,000miles what's the difference really. But if it is worn there's a problem causing premature failure. Be it a retarded car or a retarded driver, previous driver that is.

how hard is this to do? Our "new" car has savanna beige and I'd like to chage it all to black. Just curious about how hard it is to swap it out????

Thanks for any help!

Expensive, and easy less the dash.