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violaGT3

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Posts posted by violaGT3

  1. You can touch them up yourself it is only to what degree you want to do it. If there are gashes then you can use touch up paint bottles ( after cleaning thuroughly with a paint prep) but it might look better to just leave them be. The next level would be to remove the parts give them a good sanding your self including 220, 400, 800, possibly even 1200 to get them totally ready, and then talk to a local paint shop about what they would charge to shoot them for you. This is my direct advice as paint is so easy to mess up and you can just spend a little and get professional results. The only thing I will dually recommend is that you use a good cleaning spirit and clean it thuroughly. Some of the interior protectant products have a silicone based goo in them that will fisheye your paint to the point of no return. You could paint them your self with a can but I do not recommend that at all. Good luck with your choice.

    P.S. That having been said, my handles and the piece they sit in are painted Artic Silver, along with a few other bits.

  2. The Porsche part number is: 996.106.447.01.

    If you have a cap with part number (on the top of the cap) 996.106.447.00 you need to replace it with the .01 cap.

    Most, if not all, of the 00 caps leak.

    US MSRP is $17.45 (as of June 2007).

    I'll jump this bandwagon Thanks for the tip. I have had my 99 for 4 years and I have not replaced it. It'll be nice to know if I have the old one too.

  3. Bought my 99 996 cab a year ago with 32k and have it up to 42k...replacing the coolant tank this weekend. Under heavy acceleration I can feel my clutch starting to shudder...dealer quoted me $1800 to replace. Other than that, the engine seems strong but I don't have much experience in them other than the wonderful 10k I have put on mine.

    e

    Have you brought the shuddering up on here somone might have some insight into this. I am at 75K I believe on the original clutch? Not sure but I believe it to be. All the concerns I have are of odd little quirks and they seem to match others discriptions right before they meet with disaster. I have considered putting a SC on my 99' but well I know I do not want to do it if the engine is not healthy. Right now it drives strong, pulling from 2,300rpm in every gear. But it only takes one mechanical failure to destroy a completely healthy engine. The one thing any mechanical part the world over is guarenteed to do is break. I don't like the thought of "having" to replace the engine, but you gotta do what you gotta do. Thanks for the info, thats a real low miler!

  4. Pics ar here It is the silver mount that sits directly under the little black electric pump thing on the the driver side of the car.
    I think that is the secondary pump and I beleive that one of the lines may contain a small amount of oil so you may check the connections for any leakage down onto the mount.

    I'll check into the possibility of this, but for now I can say the the top of the mount is nearly sealed/ capped off less a 1/8th inch hole. I looked quite vigoursly attempting to find the leak spot, and then the other side started leaking the same way. I do believe that this would rule out the little black elec. pump unless these cars are little black elec. pump TT. :D

    P.S. what in the world is that little black electric pump, is it like the old fashioned air/smog pumps?

  5. Mike, cograts, have fun and drive fast. I can help with some:

    1. yes, windshield

    2. dunno

    3. The dealer can order them, just need the vin number. You can also download the manual here in the "Quick menue" section

    4. yes it is powered always(The radio is also always powered, just hit the power.)

    5. Check the big sticker under the hood, bring the numbers (x50, 095, etc.) to the "quick menue" and see the option look up, you can get all the factory options

    6. no, not normal. something must be broken on the hinge. Do a search for fuel door, there is a diagram of all parts for the it in the website, somewhere....

  6. Your problem has me worried, as I "tinker" with the car monthly, and can be putting it on jackstand 15-20 times a year. I have been using the engine point as a lift point also, and slide an old hockey puck to make the contact. I found this at the PCA site:

    http://treffen.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_questi...4-F17A94BC49D0}

    What caught my eye is the phrase "...it is permissible to do it at the engine, noting as you did to get to the strong part ahead of the flat sump area..", which is exactly what you did and what I think I have been doing. I am open to any other suggestions as to how to get the car in the air without spending $1500 on a lift.

    Hi well here's the best I can make of it is the mounts are designed to keep the engines from sagging and the stress of holding the weight of the car can fast forward the breakdown process. Now mine is a 99' so I can say use this technique at your own risk, but I have now seen that it puts unacceptable stress on these mounts. I can say that mine have 7+years to wear/breakdown, but that being stated if I had not done this then they could of possibly lasted quite a while longer. And to all unsure about the location I used it is the one shown in the how to put your car on jackstands thread. :unsure:

  7. Pics ar hereI don't necessarily know what to think of this??? I am raising the car to check on the shifter linkage to see if all is good and I start jacking it up and then oil just starts pouring out of the drivers side of the rear end? as it slowed I got under there and it appears as though it is coming out of a motor mount??

    A motor mount in the body not attached to the engine. I am trying to get a pic setup. It is the silver mount that sits directly under the little black electric pump thing on the the driver side of the car.

  8. Nice write up!. But I have a stooper anyone know how to get a floor jack under a car with a 3" clearance? I've using the factory to first raise the body to get one under there. Is there an easier way?

    ViolaGT3,

    As was mentio ned previously in this string of posts, use two pieces of a 2x12 as a mini ramp under each rear wheel to get more clearance for your jack. WOrks like a charm for me. The lengh of the first 2x12 is about 18" with the top piece being about a foot long screwed to the 18' piece. Sorry no pics, but I'm sure you get the idea.

    Demosan

    I must have breezed past that. I will have to give that a try I have ramps but I have to line them up carefully and it is a daunting bothersome task. But I know if I were to get the car up. I would not stop cleaning til it gleamed like Orients. Besides I have a few things I need to get under there for anyways. Thanks.

  9. Will 19" wheels and tires work on a 1999 C2 and will the ride get too hard since I hace M030 suspension with H&R springs.

    I would like to hear from members that have 19"

    Thanks

    Got 19x11 19x8.5 with no issues in ride comfort. One recommendation I can give is not to go with P-Zeros. I'm on my 3rd set and will be the last do not last very long and carry alot of road noise after the first 1-2kmls. They stick to the road like glue if your are into heavy sport driving, but I cannot justify as I rarely push hard enough to need them. That being said I've had it over 160mph on the wichita turnpike, Emporia police cut me some slack you can see for miles and no one was home.

  10. 1999 c2 cabriolet, only 45k miles. Needed the cam cover 'gaskets'/sealant reinstalled at about 37k, last year, car was 7 years old at the time. I had just had the annual maintenance performed, then less then five days later the engine was puking oil out the cam covers (the extra oil pressure from new Mobil1 might have contributed to exposing that weakness).

    No RMS problems. Had to have the A/C recharged last year. Dealer suggested that I replace the evaporator to stop the leak (which from the dealer is a complete box with the fan and many hours labor), but 14 months later the A/C still runs strong.

    I did the AC this year, sounds like you are doing good.

  11. Same concern here. I Just love this car full leather full CF, Violet Metallic, Champion tuned suspension+ wheels, full GT3 Aero kit, and well would like to consider all options before I drop $20k into a replacement and a SC. Bimmers are nice, had an 02 M5 loved it, just a little to big for my sporty taste.

    :offtopic: I stoppped by the BMW dealer today to return the big bow borrowed to surprise the wife. I took a seat in the new Z4 Coupe - much smaller than an M5! The local paper's auto writer called it the "Cayman killer" at $20K less and 255 HP. I can't believe I can buy a brand new 2007 Z4 for the same price I paid for my 99 C2 three years ago. Humm....

    Yea been there done that, it's a nice car and the $50k tag is nice. But it is truely a roadster, 0 trunk space for anything! I couldn't do it.

  12. Love the car but getting nervous about long term reliability especially with all the recent posts about engine failures. The resale value is still in the sweet spot so I'm real tempted to get out of it while the getting is good and move back to BMW (just bough the wife a 2008 328i - NICE car). No flames please. :rolleyes:

    Same concern here. I Just love this car full leather full CF, Violet Metallic, Champion tuned suspension+ wheels, full GT3 Aero kit, and well would like to consider all options before I drop $20k into a replacement and a SC. Bimmers are nice, had an 02 M5 loved it, just a little to big for my sporty taste.

  13. 78K, doesn't use a drop of oil, which is my yardstick.

    This has been done recently here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=64004

    I see that but I am trying to see about 3.4's specifically. I am at 75k, and have an odd quick dry tap for the initial burst of start up, and a once and a while knock that is independent, subtle but definately a lower end knock(after 5=days of no start). I don't want to let his car go and well putting $10k into a replacement 3.4 and considering a SC, all falls into the range of a TT or better engine. Besides that I have to keep the faith "knock on wood" that 911's are the gritiest, dirtiest, meanest reliable bang for the buck sports cars on the planet that still look good dressed up.

    Oh and I have a little RMS sweat but I do not lose any oil either.

  14. I agree with Loren.

    Also, the transmission casing will not match up to the turbo engine. The Turbo crankcase is based on the GT1 engine, and is different to the M96 engine/transmission interface.

    Hmmm, well I'm thrown by the fuel issue. But the rest I sort of figured I would hit a snag on. With all the little problematic 996 failures and the things I would like to do with my C2. A TT engine is/was a definate possiblility I have been pondering a SC, and with a 75kmls 3.4, I have become a little fearful after reading through here, and also a little lucky that my engine has not imploded or something or other by now. Anyone know where I can get a GT1 engine-tranny? J/K! I appreciate the knowledge. Does anyone know of anyone who has transplanted a newer/better engine into their 99-01? I guess I'll spend a little time looking through my Porsche Manuals about those differences. Many Thanks!

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