violaGT3

My 99 C2 calipers are looking really bad. The decal or some coating over the black is getting air underneath and bubbling the same way window tinting does when it starts to fail. I'm looking into either painting or powder coating. What are the advantages/disadvantages of doing one over the other? I also would want to replace the white Porsche lettering. Is this just a decal added after painting? Lastly, any cost estimates on both the options. Thanks.

Check around your area for powdercoating services. Get your estmates and move forward from there. This would be the permanent reapir, but would be more expensive. You could also have them blasted and then just use high temp primer and paint, but this method's results are directly affected by the quality of work done. ie you do not clean and prep right it will come off. As far as the lettering. Hmm I do not know all porsche brakes but all the ones I've seen (My GT3, C2, and 01 TT's) had Porsche casted in them but if your do not you could go the sticker route. Either way you are going to be with out the calipers for a week or better. Good luck with it.

No One?

I would have to ask are you racing your car. You could do 1/4miles all day long with that setup with no issues. But if you are hitting curves above (Cannot be exact)90-100mph then you could run into a problem. On a normal no spoiler car you can lose grip fairly easily while high speed manuvering but when you have an active tuned spoiler on the rear it will apply force to the rear of the car, and with that actually lessen the force on the front of the car. (Less you have a 930 slant :notworthy: ) In all if you are out there sporting your car out like your racing everyone, then you do need to upgrade your front end. Front spoilers (lips) do one really big thing they restrict the air that can get under the front in turn making resistance and downforce. If you are just enjoying your car and topping out around 80 or so then you will be fine.(all statements are based on applied physics, and do not apply on dirt, gravel, in tornados, or hurricanes, in the event of a flood you will be fine)

Hi. I am trying to plan ahead for the possibility of having to put a new engine into my 99' C2 6spd. and I would like to know if it is possible to correctly fit a 01-03 TT motor in there. If so what might I need other than the harness, brain? The problem is I absolutely love my 99' and well it sometimes makes me worry reading these horror stories about failures. Mine has a dry start tap like the lifters for the first 2-3 seconds and one independent knock sounding like one rod bearing sometimes lasting up to 8 seconds. Allthough the knock is seldom heard, it is nonetheless there. I know the chassis are prettymuch the same less some stiffening, but what is the difference in the widebody and are all turbos the widebody? Oh yea and will my 6 spd mate to it? Many Thanks! :drive:

"Should be inexpensive - just tighten the bolts."

Unless the dealers have started charging by degrees of rotation.

I'm still waiting to get it back from the shop it's getting a new front bumper and fresh paint on the front. Does anyone know Luke Skywalker I would like to get a force-field for the front end?

I was in a hurry to change my oil and did not let the car cool. I stripped the hex on the oil drain plug using too much force on the wrong allen wrench. I ordered a replacement, but I need to know how to approach removing the existing stripped drain plug.

I was thinking thar getting the 8mm allen socket and tapping it into place may work, but I am afraid there is not enough left to grip it. Any suggestion for a dumba$$? :renntech:

Hi there are a few ways, But I would recommend using a cut off wheel on one side of the stripped nut, making a slot and then using a hammer screwdriver combo to tap/screw it out like the worlds cheapest hammer drill. good luck with it.

If it really sticks only when cold does it bother you that much? My 997 with Sports shift option is very stiff in 1 and 2 when cold. I just double clutch before going into first and sometimes second. Goes in like butter and its easier on the transmission.

Well yea it does bother me as it is not normal. It does occassionally lead to it grinding sometimes and I do not like grinding anytime. It won't be too big of an issue in the warmer times. I am just very precautious when shifting and for the love of Pete man this is a 911 not a 78 Datsun. I just need a free day when it is not raining to get under the car and get to the bottom of this and if I cannot get it done before I head back overseas it is coming off and going to a shop.

There is a meager 75kmls on this 99 and it has a mere 2 door dings from people with no respect for others. I really love this car it has every option I was looking for and it is just gorgeous. Full Leather, full CF, tuned coilover suspension, Champion $6,500 wheels, Notchy B&M SS, full body kit and the seems to be rare violet metallic paint. I looked for a few years to find a Porsche that I really liked and this was the one of many that caught my eye. So I want it to be right. I am not a Multi-millionaire yet, so for now I take care of the things I have. Until then I'll do my best.

P.S. Your 997 is new or very close to new so you know this condition exists. I bought this car when it was warm and I had no idea this condition existed until it became really cold. =(

Should be inexpensive - just tighten the bolts.

Thanks for the heads up I will attempt to get under the car and check those. Oddly I did not have this issue before I took the car to the dealer to have the A/C compressor replaced? I will post if I find the problem.

Wow, interesting stories. Glad it taint me! I put 20% all the way, if by chance I do get pulled over I just have the window down and the car turned off. Luckily I have not run into super fuzz with the tint reader. Communists. But then again my political views are a bit extreme, but I really want them to happen! Go with what you see that you like I am not a fan of the black rear windows and the smoked fronts looks stupid to me. (My opinion) but you wouldn't two tone your car green in the front and gold in the rear?? Or would you??? If you are a concerned citizen then just do 35 all the way with a 4 inch eyebrow(windshield topper and the rule of thumb is it must not go below the rearview mount) (standards for tint 5%, 20%, 28%=HTF, 35%and so on.) Any upstanding tint shop can do a good job just don't buy the economy tint get the scratch gard tint. You'll have a hard time finding ther old time woes of yesteryear anymore as tint has been greatly improved. No more purple smoke after one year and as long as your shop cleans the glass well you should not have an issue with bubbles provided the tint has the proper time and temp to dry. It was cold when I had my GT3 tinted so they told me to keep it in the garage at normal room temp for 3 days to ensure it dires correctly.

Be sure you also get the friction modifier in the little tube. Cannot for the life of me remember what is was specifically called but I believe it was for LSD apps. Let us know what you get with it.

Well, The rep brought a 2+1 kit including 2 bottles of the Syncroshift II gear oil, and one squeeze tube of LSII Limited slip additive. He is going to bring another bottle later as he only had the one kit with him.

Allright You do need 3 bottles and the additive. I had the dealer put the fluid in for me when they put my new A/C compressor in. I have noticed a little improvement in the ease of shift but it did not hit the big problem with the 2nd gear. I am all well believing it has something to do with a odd grommet protruding down from the doghouse directly over the linkage. I will try to check it out just don't know when I'm heading out to Cali for a while and possibly overseas again there after if I do not have a chance to get to it I'll just have it sent to Power Haus. Many thanks for the recommendation. Jim

Hi, when going over bump slowly I hear a sound like the suspension is knocking on something??? It is independant as far as I can tell. When I pull into my drive I hear it from each side individually. I have checked everything i can get my hands on but do not outrightly see anything. Any clues?? It is a clean and single knock per side. TIA

I am interested to see how you follow through with this I will be sending mine to Power Haus shortly if I cannot figure out why I am having this problem. I have t-shot this thing to death and came to the conclusion that if indeed it were the Synchros then I could not even with the clutch depresed get the shifter to go into it's spot without grinding(all shift speeds tried). The only time I get grinding is when I release the clutch it sounds like there just isn't enough surface area touching to handle the torque of the engine and it pulls away, as though it were never really engaged all the way. I did notice a problem with an odd flexible grommet coming out of the doghouse directly abouve the shifter linkage( like the cord re-enforcements on power tools), but have not had the time to investigate it as of yet. Oh yea I tried the Royal Purple, but it made no difference, I now have the B&G fluid in there it has made a noticeable difference in the fluidity of the tranny but has not cured my ailment. I am leaning towards a mechanical problem with mine, so your results may differ. Best of luck!

Hi, I am new to this forum and I have always wanted a Carrera. Looks like I am going to get the early model 996 such as 99-00 in the next few months. I am planning to spend $30k on the car total. I planned to find one for cheaper and set aside a few thousand for maint.

The question I have are:

How is the 996 as a daily driver?

I see a few treads stating that the engine has gone bad at aprox 125k miles...is this common?

Whats your mileage?

What mpg do you get?

I am coming from a 97 e36 m3. I am used to owning cars with 100k + miles on it. My previous bmw 325is had 240k miles!

Hi I've had my 996 for about 2.5 years and I get on average 320 miles to a tank freeway and approx 230 spiritedly driving.

Mine does have a minor main seal leak, More than likely when you get your clutch changed you can just have them upgrade yours to the new version. It is not expensive at all. I looked for a porsche for 4 years before I found this one, but I am very picky. I am at 75kmls. and it is a wonderful driving car. I had an 04 M5 and it's just not the same. The oddest problems I have had are the tensioner bearing and the A/C clutch, their bearings failed. The hardest issue I am having is my 2nd gear is tempermental when the weather is cold. I'm guessing that it was the previous owners favorite gear. But it seems the parts are being released now so you can just get the tranny repaired. If you buy it from a dealer make sure they give you and extra remote key. It'll save you a bit later if one of the remote chips goes bad. But really these guys on here have made things very easy for me to jump into working on the car myself doing my own maintenance like oils and belts, as well as a ton of info on DIY upgrades. But I would recommend if you get one to try and find one that has some of the upgrades you want on it already as performance parts are kind of high, as well as standard parts like interior and aerodynamics. Great quality but again costly. I would recommend getting one with the litronic headlights this is one upgrade that'll cost you $2k to have retro-fitted or $1500 if you do the wrenching. Oh yea and the stereo's blow, speakers etc. I love the ease of use and auto tunning on my 220 but, it does not hold a candle to the BMW basically if you love to hear your car with a little background hissing, then you are good. I added a tap in set of subs, drop the factory bass and used the 8" subs to complement. I am not a bass junkie, but I like my music to sound good "note music, not booming nursery rhyme". = )

Be sure you also get the friction modifier in the little tube. Cannot for the life of me remember what is was specifically called but I believe it was for LSD apps. Let us know what you get with it.

Well, The rep brought a 2+1 kit including 2 bottles of the Syncroshift II gear oil, and one squeeze tube of LSII Limited slip additive. He is going to bring another bottle later as he only had the one kit with him.

Going to pick up the BG fluids right now. I'll post if it does the trick allthough the results would be unfair as it is supposed to be 80 here for the next couple of days. I won't be able to do the test for about 2 weeks I have to go to Indy for business.

Man no luck huh well please post your findings so if I have this prob. I can call upon this post. Right no I am replacing a smoked A/C clutch that is 75kmls old!?!

Hi you might want to contact them directly. I bought their set on CD from the Internet. Oh and it also includes I believe the complete set of TEQ catalogs, and other ones, LIT which covers the released manuals, ATK which replacement parts from antennas to engines, STZ seats all and parts of them, Aa well as what appears separate catagories just for US release parts.

Yea there it is, Loren do you have those on disc or something else? If you have them on disc how were you able to cut it out? Mine comes up in PDF and I cannot get it to cut or paste only make a copy of the entire section.

I purchased the car from an insurance auction and of course they took all the expensive parts out! Yes I tried wd40 and giggling and turning the wheel some back and forth same old thing maybe I will try agian tomorrow. I did have a passing thought that because I did not have any power or any of the computers even that it would not turn, but not believing myself on that one.

Hmmm, well there are not any huge anti turning mechanisms in the assembly. One thing you might check is to see if the key works in the door. I know it sounds odd but could they have given you the wrong key. I'd be willing to bet I could break the plastic actuator or the key if I was upset and in your position trying to turn it. If possible can you attempt to look down the cylinder and see if there is maybe something in there preventing the key from seating all the way or is it possible the the kek has been marred. I would place my money on either the key being wrong or it got jammed/jarred when it was towed to the impound etc.

Whoops! Sorry, it's ~590MB, not 535.

-Mike

How's the quality of the scan? I've seen that site, but was wary of downloading an illegible document.

Hi I got mine from www.workshopmanuals.co.uk and they are all crystal clear. They look as though they were transfered to disc by Porsche Maybe they were. But the quality is very good. and it includes the PET manuals on GT3 and the GT.

While installing SS brake lines and managed to partially strip the nut at the end of the hard line on the front passenger side. How is this line routed through the car, and does anyone have any instructions or technical drawings that would be pertinent to replacing it? Any help would be much appreciated, as I would really like to have my right-front brake working again.

I have searched my workshop manuals and they do not disclose the running locations of the hard lines. I would have to say just trace it back to the control box which is located in or relative to the front trunk. It should be an easy enough chore if there is not too much blocking you. Unless one of the Guru's have access to a more detailed set of schematics. The best I can tell you would to start by finding the control box it looks to be close to the firewall in the drivers fender area. Then get a jist of where the lines come out and it should be abc from there. Good luck.

I just found a better schematic in the PET catalog(I cannot extract the page or copy it?). It shows that the control box lines terminating at an intermediate box probably mounted in the trunk wall on the drivers side and the final lines begin on the other side of the wall. It is approx. 2"x3". I believe you are looking for the line coming out of the front of it(pass.I think) or the one coming from the bottom(drivers).

Here are the part #'s for the two hard lines 996 355 176 90/08 I believe 90 to be the driver's side.

Well, I have around 40K on my 2003 C4S and I've noticed a very ugly sound coming from my engine after stopping at a light and then going. Just as I let out the clutch in a normal manner, I can hear my engine ratting like it's lugging and I swear I can hear the valves chattering until higher RPMs are reached. This only happens at low RPMs when starting to roll from a complete stop. I don't feel any vibration thru the clutch pedal or thru the steering wheel when this happens. It sort of sounds like a diesel at idle or those dreaded dieseling engines on older cars that aren't in good shape when stopping the engine. I've already had my RMS changed at 18k miles and I had them put a new clutch in while they were at it. I'm also going to have my RMS replaced again because of another leak. So, what do you think this could be? Valves acting up or a clutch chattering away? Need some input so I can be educated about this before I present my case to my dealer.

TIA! :huh:

I would have to say throw out bearing.

Oh Yea I feel for you having to go through all that.

The steering wheel is not locked and I tried the PDF, but in the instructions the key needs to be in position 1 or "on" which my key will not turn and I can not remove barrel. It is hard to concieve that that key needs to be "on" to remove it. What a joke. :cursing:

HI is it unknown why the key will not turn? I would dare say try a lubricant, either WD40 or Graphite and be vigorous with your attempts. All the while playing with the wheel incase it possibly is binded somehow. Like when your wheels are turned at just the right angle it puts backwards pressure on the steering rack and causes the column to bind. Unless you stole the car and are just trying to get it out to put your keyed replacement in. Oh and most of the cars I have ever replaced the ignition barrel in had to be in the on position to release the barrel by pressing the pin. Just FYI.

Oh and come to think I will attempt to see if one of my keys less the chip will allow the ignition to turn. I switched to a GT keyhead and I know I had trouble trying to use it until I found the little glass chip and moved it also. Gimmie a sec.

No that wasn't it the key still turned it just wont start the car.

I can only say add lub. and be aggressive with it. Good Luck

The remote stops working after 4 or 5 days of inactivity, open the door with the key, push the key in the ignition switch and turn to the contact position while pushing on the opening button of the remote. If the system refuge to work, replace the remote. This is a PIWIS job. There is a fuse in the alarm control box under the driver seat but troubles with the fuse are rather infrequent.

It is not the problem. It acts as if the key forgot who the car was...

I did an extensive search and it seems to be a fairly common problem...I am now looking for alternatives to 200-300 for a new key!

I did not find anything about a switch though

Hi, I just went through something right along these lines I came home from Baghdad and I used my remote well it just stopped working. I did the battery and then tried Lorens sequence and it turned out I needed a new remote. My dealer told me $250 for the remote then I called Sunset and got one for $100+/- You'll need the dealer to program it. You can either use your old blade or go ahead and get a new one, I got a new one. Sunset is one the forum pages under "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost." They have some on eBay for around $80 but that is at your own risk.

Hi

They are the same. There is only a different right front mat, if the car is equipped with a Bose Sound system. ( in Europe !! )

Many thanks I thought the were but needed to confirm for someone.