Bwildstein

I have a 2004 c4s, with a messed up screen on my climate control module. The ac/ heat work fine, just the display doesn't read. WILL any of the climate control modules FROM 1999-2003 fit my 2004? On ebay I see used modules available from earlier years for $150+/-, but for 2004 the cost is something like $380. Does anyone know whether any other year besides 2004 will fit and work properly without causing any separate problems to occur within the car? I don't want to do the repair kit, I'm not that handy and don't have the time to take the module apart. Thanks, BW

Thanks Loren. Any idea of how much i may be looking st to fix this, worst case? BTW, regarding my last post which you responded to earlier this week about my car not turning over first try, that problem seems to have gone away on its own, haven't had that problem since about a day after my postings. I believe the heat shield or clamps are the issue on my exhaust noise, and will have this checked out when I bring the car in.

I purchased my 2004 c4s cab 2 weeks ago, have driven it almost everyday since, yesterday, I went to put the top down, it went down all the way, but the convertible top compartment lid stopped moving before and is remaining in the up position while the top is down. Now it won't move, nor will the convertible...neither goes up or down. I tried to play with compartment lid Allen screw, it doesn't seem to move the lid up or down, I do hear clicking when I press the rocker button on the dash, but that's all, the car received a 30k service by an authorized dealer when I took possession, I met the seller at that dealership to consummate the transaction, dealer indicated that they saw no immediate capex requirements. So, I guess my questions are as follows: 1. Is it possible that it's low or out of hydraulic fluid? I wouldn't think so since I would think this was checked by the dealer as part of the servicing. 2. Is it the lid motor? I saw no indication that the motor was slowing or about to die. 3. Is it the micro sensors? 4. Is it maybe just out of calibration? And an easy fix? 5. If I were to disconnect and reconnect the car battery or give it a charge, would this make a difference? The car was starting fine for the days prior to this and other electricals were fine. 6. Whats my worst case cost to get this rectified? I am thinking that I may use an independent garage, there is a guy in my area who appears to be factory certified through 2009 and a Porsche only servicer. 7. Lastly, while on issues with the top, I have a couple scratches (not tares) that are driving me nuts (looks like a cat was scratching the top, I heard of a place that sells the haartz A5 canvas and you use your original glass (auto top factory llc) can I simply and at no major cost, replace only the canvas and not the remaining top pieces? When I bought the car I thought it was a steal, now I feel like the car is stealing from me...time fretting and trouble shooting and cash to fix... Any advise and/or comments would be appreciated. Thanks, BW

So this won't cost me $3k...talked to local dealer today, they said they would "identify" or confirm no power drain and change battery for $400+/-. Heat shield isure can be played with by any tech? My father is a VW dealer and told me his guys could fo it for cost of battery, but he always had work done by authorized dealers. think I should bring to Porsche dealer or let his techs play with it? Thanks

Thanks for the response, did not check heat shield, how easy is this for me to check, can I do It on my own, or do I need to bring it in? Definitely replacing battery based on cold crank amps negativety and knowing the battery might not come back... I'm concerned it may not be a battery problem though....

Im new to the site, just purchased my first Porsche, 2004 996 C4S cab, 31k miles. I live in PA, flew to mississippi to buy it and drove it home. I purchased the car from the original owner, a 65 year old orthopod (I say this because it means to me that the car was never abused). I purchased the car from the doctor but picked it up at Porsche of jackson following the dealer doing a 30k service, they told me all was well and i need not expect any major cash outflows soon after my purchase. So I drove 1200 miles without a problem, now I'm home in pa and becoming skeptical of my purchase. Here's why, 1. I now hear a light rattle from the passenger exhaust for the first few miles after startup each time I drive regardless of whether I just drove it 10 minutes prior...sound generally goes away after 5 minutes. Checked the cats with mallets, checked the exhaust clamps..can't see a problem..am I over thinking a war up sound, is this normal, or do I have a prob that needs to be checked by a tech? 2. Possibly, and if so, largely my fault...every car I have had as automatic lights, meaning they go off when I turn off the car. Two nights ago I left the headlights on all night, went to drive her in the morning and she was fully dead, had to jump the fuse box etc.. Just to get to the battery, when I did that, the jump wasn't enough to get the engine turned, aaa came and got it going with a power pack. They told me I was at 14 volts, but my cold crank amps were at 490/850, and " I could have a problem in a few days". After this car worked fine beside my #1 issue, and no problems starting or with electrical. Despite having made the car my daily driver since I purchased it last week, today I tried to leave my office and got no start. So I pulled the key out of the ignition, tried again, and it worked...same thing each of the three times I've tried driving it since...is this the battery needing replacement, the start, or something else? I figure the battery, but why the problems after two days of continuous driving? Some of my coworkers have Porsches and all of my family are life long owners too, they all think I am overthinking everything. My father is a VW, Mazda, and Volvo dealership owner, and other dealership owner in the past he thinks the exhaust noise is "normal". Comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, BW