systech

 

I hope someone can help.  Recently bought a 2011 C2S.  Memory setting for 'key button 1'  and 'person buttons 2.3' do not work.  Following Owner's Manual instructions, but get no "beep" or any other indication that settings were saved.  Pushing buttons results in nothing.  I move seats all over, make the 'save' and nothing works when I press the buttons.  Is there a trick I do not know, or is something broken?  Thank you.

 

I had exactly the same problem. Turns out the CAN bus control module which controls the key memory and light at the bottom of the door was loose / disconnected (behind the door card I think). If your door light does not work that's a pretty good sign that you have the same (or similar) problem.

 

BTW, I assume that you held the "1" (or 2 or 3) key while pressing the "M" (Memory) button to save the setting(s) ?

I hope someone can help.  Recently bought a 2011 C2S.  Memory setting for 'key button 1'  and 'person buttons 2.3' do not work.  Following Owner's Manual instructions, but get no "beep" or any other indication that settings were saved.  Pushing buttons results in nothing.  I move seats all over, make the 'save' and nothing works when I press the buttons.  Is there a trick I do not know, or is something broken?  Thank you.

I had exactly the same problem. Turns out the CAN bus control module which controls the key memory and light at the bottom of the door was loose / disconnected (behind the door card I think). If your door light does not work that's a pretty good sign that you have the same (or similar) problem.

The throttle hunting/fluctuation was not fixed by cleaning the throttle body. What else may have caused this, what should I try next?

The MAF is often a contributor to poor running. Try disconnecting the wiring to it...if it runs better (using the default map in the ECU) then that's a good signed that the MAF is US or may need a clean with electronics cleaner.

I've been using this board for a while searching for things but this is my first post. Glad to be here.

I've got a 2000 Boxster with 35k miles. It's been quite a rocky ride so far. I had the IMS bearing failure at 22k mile a few years ago (car doesn't get a lot of driving). Engine was replaced with a salvage yard one (2001) with about 10k more miles than mine and all was fine until last fall. I did the flat6inovations bearing replacement on the new engine and hoped I was good to go. Last fall the car started to idle rough and would eventually set the CEL with mixture out of range errors. I took it to my local independent (who did the engine swap) and he couldn't find anything wrong. Cleaned the MAF and told me if it didn't clear up to go ahead and replace the MAF. It would take days for the CEL to come back on but it always did. Replaced MAF, no improvement. Started doing research here and proceeded to replace spark plugs and AOS. Problem still persisted. Went back to the shop and they put it on a smoke machine and found a small vacuum leak from a hose that was chewed by a rodent. Things got a little better but still would set CEL and not idle smooth. Back again on the smoke, no more leaks found. At this point I think he was out of ideas and started shotgunning at my expense. Replaced both upstream O2 sensors, no improvement. Replaced MAF again.

The car runs great off idle, it just idles rough and will eventually set the light. I recently moved a few hours away from the old shop so I'm a bit on my own. What next?

Rough idle is often caused by a dirty throttle body. I assume that you've already cleaned it but if not, it's worth a try.

I recently cleaned my MAF in hopes of chasing out a 0430 CEL. I took the MAF out, sprayed it with MAF cleaner, put it back in, and unplugged battery. I didn't drive the car for a few days after so I know the MAF was dry. When I started the car earlier, the idle was really rough. It would jump back and forth from 500 rpms to 1000 rpms. After the car warmed up the rough idle settled down slightly but was still present- it would jump back and forth from 500 to 800 rpms.

Any ideas what the issue is here? Is this just the ecu adjusting to a cleaner MAF? I had zero idle issues prior to the MAF cleaning.

What they said.

Could also be the throttle body needs a clean.

Hello,

2001 Boxster S

60,000 Miles

No CEL, but have had one pop on from time to time related to the O2 sensor on one of the banks

The last couple of days I have noticed a lack of power when accelerating. It is particuliarly noticeable when traveling at the lower range of a gear (slow for that gear) but is noticeable to some extent in all gears. When accelerating, the car will rev up about 1,000-1,500 rpm higher but not deliver any additional power until a second later and then the revs drop down to where they were before and begin increasing as the car accelerates smoothly after the initial 'over-rev'.

Sequence of events:

1. Press gas pedal

2. Revs jump 1-1.5 k

3. Car accelerates and Revs Drop

4. Normal power curve (at least I think) after the initial lag.

I haven't had much time to check much of anything but did look at the air filter to ensure it wasn't clogged by leaves as I park under some trees that have been vigorously preparing for winter.

Any help would be appreciated and if anyone knows of a good auto shop in the Brooklyn area that would be helpful.

Thanks. :thankyou:

Classic symptoms of a failing air flow sensor (MAF) in my view. You could try cleaning it and if that doesn't change the situation replace it. You can also do a check of the MAF by disconnecting the cable...if it runs better using the default map in the ECU which is activated when no valid MAF signals are received, you can bet the MAF is stuffed.

Hi All,

Thanks heaps for your replies. great to hear of other people's experiences, and glad I'm not alone here. Ok, so next stop new Yoko's perhaps and some Bilsteins. Not sure where to find a set of ROW's in Australia, but I'll keep the hunt out as well. - ------- mcmike27, any reason why you only changed the rear struts?

- infocusf8, you inspire me to keep this car for a while too......

thanks all!

Daryl

Hi there fellow Aussie,

I think you will find that (like most things) the world is divided into the USA market and the Rest of World (whic includes us Aussies) so getting the MO30 should not be an issue and in fact if my logic is correct should be the standard fit.

A good aftermarket replacement with the same look and feel as the OEM is the Becker Grand Prix. This includes an MP3 CD capability, Bluetooth etc.

For more details see: http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showto...=solisto+becker

(you may need to register first if not currently a member)

Hi

I'm looking to replace the dash-top speakers and have been told that 2" is the max depth. Sorry to be picky, but are we talking exactly 2"? The reason I ask is the speakers I have in mind say" Installation depth : 60 mm ( 2")" - which is actually over 2" in my book! I don't want to buy them and then find out they're too tall,

So I'd really appreciate it if you can let me know what speakers you've used (and I'll research the depths) and any experiences with speakers that haven't fitted?

Cheers

I have just installed the MB Quart DKH110 speakers in the dash and they only just fit..at the limit I would suggest. Their installation depth (i.e distance between bottom of magnet and fixing screw location is 2.17" which is ca. 55 mm. On that basis, I would suggest that a speaker with 60 mm depth will not fit !

It seems like many problems with the CDR 220 are caused by dirty electrical contacts between the removable faceplate and the main part of the unit. I would try removing the faceplate and cleaning the contacts first.

If that doesn't fix the problem, here's a link to the Becker web site: http://www.beckerautosound.com/ They may have some suggestions.

..or in the worst case, see http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=STRK:MESELX:IT

Shipping via courier (3-4 days) is $A 65. :D

Thanks, Richard. I have taken away lots from this board, time to give a little back.

Systech, I am using IGO 8, which came with the GPS unit. Is there a better map program out there? Is Tomtom or Destinator better? I haven't used those.

I am no nav expert but assume that the navigation application supplied with the kit can utilise maps in standard PND or other common formats. My questions are:

- did you get Aussie maps with the kit?

- as far as you can tell, who is the source of the maps (Sensis, Teleatlas ?)

- do they work and are they any good?

Looks good.

What have you used for Aussie maps?

Has anyone tried this method of trying to trick the CDR23 via the CD Changer input, so that an ipod can be directly wired?

I saw the third party solution that's available, but I'm not looking to spend that much to get the ipod working without the modulator.

Thanks.

The Solisto Pro 4200B01 is a USB / Ipod / Aux in adaptor for the Becker Grand Prix / Traffic Pro and Porsche CDR22 / 220 range of radios but not sure whether this works with the CDR23 because of the MOST bus.

It does exactly what you suggest and emulates the CDC-3 / Becker Silverstone CD changers. (see http://cgi.ebay.com.au/USB-iPod-iPhone-Int...=item2ea808924a for details). It provides a simple interface for USB (memory stick), IPod / Iphone and aux in (for other MP3 players).

I installed this with a Becker Grand Prix radio which offers native MP3 / Bluetooth capability and am fairly happy with the system as it retains the OEM look and is relatively affordable. If you want more details of this install please see Boxa.net (http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41811).

2002 986S w/Tiptronic

For a couple of days I noticed a few tablespoons of coolant fluid on the garage floor when I take off for the day. I gave the car a rest so as not to damage anything till I found time to take a look. Now there are barley a few drops after very long weekend. I looked underneath this evening and found the following shown in the photo. I don't have a floor jack so I could not get a real good view from beneath the pump. I tightened the hose clamp as well as the lower bolt shown with a drop on it. After a brief spin around the neighborhood I don't see any more leaks....yet. I took a photo to review later. Are those lower 2 bolts part of the water pump?

Also, there is no unusual noises to indicate a water pump bearing failure, but I am no expert. What else can I do to check the pump to verify I need to replace it?

One thing I noticed is that there is sometimes, once a week, white smoke upon start-up like that of an AOS type problem. But I replaced the AOS it a few months ago. Don't know if this leak is related and just mentioning it as an FYI. No oil in the coolant tank, and no unusual fluid on the oil dipstick.

Please let me know what you see from the photo.

Thanks!

The normal spots for coolant leaks are the coolant tank (it develops small cracks, check under the carpet in the boot..sorry trunk), the coolant cap itself (it sometimes lets go) and the radiators in the front bumper (corrosion due to leaves etc). However in your case it looks like you're got a leak around the water pump connections. That elbow connected to the rubber hose in your photo looks very corroded and may be worth removing for a check and/or replacing.

Hey mike thanks for the info...basically what i am fist trying to achieve is making my stock exhaust louder..mainly i wanted to put straight pipes in, which would be an easy job for any other car, but nope never an easy job for a porsche...so im trying to figure out what my alternatives are in increasing my exhaust sound without paying an arm and a leg for an aftermarket exhaust...

In that case I would simply recommend an exhaust auxilliary bypass (which is the same principle used by Porshce on their PSE switchable exhaust option).

Typical examples can be seen, heard and purchased from people such as Oettle in Ulm, Germany. But I'm sure it can be done locally fairly easily.

See http://cgi.ebay.de/Porsche-Boxster-986-Aus...=item4399d1d4b3

or http://www.oettle-autodienst.de/pageID_4231071.html

Well, thankyou very much for all of the information I have received.

I have had Porsche 60,000km sevice completed on the car, at my expense before purchase.

I am inclined to do most maintenance on my cars. I have completed wheel bearing & suspension overhauls etc on Toyota Landcruisers & changed timing belts etc.

So please advise me if these below repairs are possibly beyond my capabilities.

A couple of things they found wrong were.

Spark plug tubes leaking.

Front & rear trailing arms noisy. I have read the write up on this site for the rear & feel it is quite straightforward.

Oil tube leaking. This is the tube in the rear compartment.

Cracked front engine mount. I have read on the other site how to repair this & it looks possible also for me.

The most concerning one is....

They also say the clutch is heavy & will need replacing within 10,000km. They said this at the last service 15,000km ago. Any comments from you guys out there.

Thanks again for all the info etc.

Dave.

Just had the clutch replaced for my MY 2000 Boxster S in Adelaide by local independent and cost around $ 2000 including genuine clutch kit. However, you can buy and equivalent Sachs (OEM) kit and save a few hundred dollars. Replace the Rear Main Seal (RMS) and if necessary the Intermediate Shaft seal at the same time as these often leak although it's not a real issue unless it becomes a major leak. The RMS is only a $30 part so worth doing. New clutch certainly makes a huge difference to the lightness of the clutch action.

Hi All

Been looking into this and want to try to install this on my 986 (04 plate). I already have the OBC and wondered whats involved in getting it up and running ?

Is there a guide anywhere ?? I realise i need the stalk.

Cheers

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=661

I realize there are many posts on coolant leaks, which I have read in an effort to find a solution to my problem. That said, I've not seemed to find a similar problem to the one I seem to be having. I need some ideas and help before I have my porsche carted off to the dealer...which I'd like to avoid.

I have a 1998 Boxster and returned home after a week's vacation. Took the car out and noticed the red oil light came on when I slowed at a traffic light. Stopped at a gas station and checked the oil (always keep a quart of Mobil 1 in the trunk). That said, I added the quart as it seemed to be down a bit. I also noticed what appeared to be condensation on the inside of the trunk lid above the radiator/oil caps. There also seemed to be a slight bit of radiator fluid that seeped from the cap. Cleaned the very small about of fluid and condensation and decided to run the car very cautiously and monitor the problem.

Took the car out two days ago in about 90 degree heat with the A/C running. Seemed to run fine, temp gauge was about 210F and toward the tail end of the 20 minute ride I pulled up to the driveway to let my father-in-law out...backed up so he could pull his car from the driveway and I could put the Porsche away. Noticed a stream of radiator fluid in the street. Pulled the car in the garage and all hell broke loose....fluid started gushing from the passenger side in front of the tire/wheel well area.

Ordered the Bentley Manual, which arrived today and began to review the coolant section. I've gone through the following:

1. Jacked the car up, checked for coolant drips underneath, but the only spot seemed to be what appears to be the overflow hose (a small tube in the vacinity of the rear passenger tire).

2. No sign of any broken hoses underneath. All hoses appeared dry and intact.

3. Checked trunk area to determine if the resevoir had cracked...completely dry.

4. Removed cover to engine compartment to inspect hoses and found no sign of fluid spray, hose breaks, etc. All looked good.

5. Removed panel behind driver/passenger seat to inspect hoses and water pump....no sign of a break, leak, etc. Every thing was "bone dry".

6. Inspected water pump from underneath and found leaks.

7. Refilled radiator with water and found no leaks.

8. Also pressurized the radiator by opening and closing the pressure valve.

8. Ran the car for about 30 minutes at 2500 - 4000 rpm with A/C on and off, with heater on and off....no leaks.

9. The A/C performed normal and cold, the heater performed normal and hot. Temp of engine during this was about 210F.

Does anyone have an idea of what could have casued the problem? I would be very grateful for suggestions or ideas.

The only thing I haven't done was test the vacuum on the radiator cap as I do not have the tool and a replacement cap is probably cheaper. I have changed the air filter and cleaned leaves and debris from the front radiator's. At this point I am puzzled and a little afraid to drive it to the dealer 30 miles away if I have to.

Hi,

No problem, that is normal, it comes from your A/C. it is in the handbook.

Plausible if it is indeed condensate and not (coloured) coolant as he implies

Fellow Porsche fanatics,

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

G'day mate! Good to see other Australians on here... yes it seems a little problematic sourcing some of the good parts.. but hopefully your thread will continue to yield good advice :) Did you see this post by someone who used aussie Jaycar speakers in the front/dash? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...617&hl=seat

Cool!

Yet another bloody Aussie !

I tried the Jaycar speakers as suggested and was not impressed. Replaced them with some JBLs which seem to have a lot more depth and clarity...and more bass. I'm told that 4" MB Quarts DKG110 (a German company) are excellent albeit not cheap. Can also get them locally in Oz but may be cheaper to get them on Ebay out of Germany.

Hello friends! I'm looking for CD or book repair manual for 986 boxster? Ebay sells for 79 bucks does anyone one here have a copy on CD? or have link where I can download one? THANKYOU!!!!!!!

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Can anyone please advise the part numbers for the latest versions of the rear main seal (I think the RMS is a green seal from the Cayenne?) and Intermediate Shaft seal for a MY2000 Boxster S (Engine code M96.21).

Need to do the clutch soon and may as well do them as well even though have never had a drop of oil !

Thanks in advance.

So i cleaned the coolant and refilled the tank.

i was sure it was going to leak again, but since then (2 days ago) nothing leaked.

im a bit confused.

i thought i had a cracked tank, but its not leaking , what else could this be?

ive driven the car for about an hour to make sure i get it to running temp and pressure but still no leak.

I believe there was an upgraded cap for the tank... it maybe a leaking cap.

Check the cap part number ...if it ends in ..00 change it for the later cap with PN ending in...01.

The former has been known to let off pressure and fluid although I'm surprised that it would leak a "puddle" unless it was a catastrophic failure in which case it should still be leaking ;-))

All the same I would just fitt he later cap and keep on eye on it.

2 days ago I was driving around 30mph and without warning my 02 Boxster 2.7 made a weird noise and shut down. I tried to restart the car and the engine would knock but would not remain running. I have recently bought the car from a good friend so I know that the car was taken care of.

I had it towed to the local dealer who indicated that a replacement engine was needed. The dealer said without opening up the engine they could not determine exactly the cause of the engine failure. But they could tell me the following

There was small pieces of metal within the oil filter casing

The Bank 1 Oil Scavenge Pump was seized

The Bank 1 Cam Sprocket had failed

The Bank 1 Cam Chain had failed

Does anyone know how all this damage could happen without warning and a matter of seconds? Does this sound like the intermediate shaft failure problem that is well documented? If so, has anyone been able to get PCNA to pay for a new engine even out of warranty.

Any help would be awesome. I am looking at a 15K bill right now.

Ordinarilly the IMS failure is accompanied by oil over the road because the end of the IMS shears off causing the bearing to dislodge. I'm not sure how they came to the conclusion that the cam sprockets and chains failed without opening the engine although this is often the end result of the failure of the IMS shaft / bearing.

If this is true, I'm afraid you're up for replacement engine (either one from a wrecker ..what do you call them in the US? ) or a reconditioned Porsche engine at around $10K.

However, I would certainly talk to the local Porsche dealer. Although they don't like to admit it, this is an all too common fault which often happens at around 30K miles and they have been known to replace the engine at no cost or at least contribute to the costs even if the car is out of warranty (may depend on whether you have used Porsche dealers for servcing etc.). There have been various modifications done in later models to increase the size of the thread / nut at the end of the IMS to avoid this happening which in my view is tantamount to admission of an initially inadequate design.

Worth a try.

Sounds like it may have been crud in the idle control valve or the throttle body which have dislodged itself ?

It seems speed related, but not engine speed or load related. Comes from the passenger side exterior (like the air inlet in front of the rear wheel?). It's especially noticeable going past a wall or other sound-reflective spot, where I'd normally enjoy the sound of the engine. Is there a fan in there that needs lithium grease or something? I searched the site and googled, but I can't find anything. Any help appreciated! Thanks!

There are fans:

1. in the engine compartment on the RHS, to vent the hot air from the compartment and

2. behind the radiators at the front. They come on when the coolant tempertaure is up, and particularly when the AC is on.

Note sure if either can be quietened as you suggest...may need to replace the noisy culprit !