gnat

For the record, according to PIWIS/TSI you have to break the shift buttons and then there are screws behind them. The shift buttons are not listed as a separate item, however, and only come with the trim piece itself (at $800-900 MSRP)  :censored:

I have a 2013 with the multi-function steering wheel. I got the wheel itself off but I can't figure out how to get the front trim piece off (that holds the MF controls).

From parts diagrams I can tell it is a separate piece that can be replaced, but it's not obvious how it comes off.

Any help would be appreciated.

+1 for taking it back to the dealer.

 

How bad was this coolant spray issue? I know in the older V8s where the hoses would let go the resulting mess would actually damage other components (starter and xfer case seals if I recall correctly) if not cleaned up throughly and quickly. Maybe this is a side effect of your coolant issue?

Are you sure Bosche is the OEM supplier? I was given Valeo blades as the replacement from my dealer connection. The P/N I have is 900-26-5B for a 26" blade. Still waiting on the rear wiper so I don't have a P/N for it.

 

If they aren't the OEM, I've been happy with them so far anyway.

This is a relatively common issue, though it seems more prevalent in the 11s and 12s than 13+. It does seem to be happening more with the 14s though and I keep hearing that it is related to XM and/or iPhones running iOS 8.x.

 

At least for the older units it seems that people go through a few rounds of software updates and resets, but ultimately end up with a new PCM being installed.

Just did my 20k/2yr service the other day and found no sign of fresh leaking on mine. Still looks like it did I wiped it off about 3000 miles ago, so hopefully mine was just a spill from above after all.

 

Thanks again for all the info about your issue.

Thanks for the update. It's been about 2.5k since my dealer last looked at and cleaned mine. I need to crawl under and see how it is doing.

Hi, I'm thinking to buy a used Porsche Cayenne S 2004

This is the 958 forum (2011+). You want the 955/957 guys next door.

 

In general though my advise would be for you to start with a cheaper car until you have better cash flow and/or DIY knowledge. Also remember that DIY is not just the knowledge/ability you have, but also having an appropriate place, ability to handle the vehicle being unavailable for a period of time, and the tools to make the needed fix.

 

I don't know about the 955 forum here, but the Cayenne forum on Rennlist has a good sticky about common issues to look for in the older versions as well as a pretty active community for the older models. Generally they are good cars, but parts are not usually cheap and labor tends to have a premium too if it's not something you can do yourself.

Frankly, it's not worth my time to do it and when you come down to the time researching, buying the parts and climbing under the vehicle. I would rather be out driving the car.

That's indeed a valid consideration and I have no problem with anyone having someone else do the work (most of the work done on our cars is done by other people as I don't have the space/time to do anything but the simple stuff). My point is that you can get the same quality (possibly better) work done at places other than the dealer for much more reasonable rates.

 

why wouldn't you have them do the service?

I like futzing with my Cayenne as much as I like driving it. Look me up on 6spd and you'll see a raft of things I've done because I enjoy it. If I have the time and think it's something I can manage, I'll tackle it. If I don't have the time or ability, I'll pay for someone else to take care of it for me.

 

In fact, when it was in last the scratched the car and made good on the repair, no questions asked.

Which is interesting given that you mention Tysons. Under their old HBL moniker they had a horrible reputation for damaging cars and then denying it. It's only because Rockville pissed me off (by damaging my Cayenne and not doing what I asked them to do) that I've recently started going to them (and so far I've been happy).

 

And I have dealt with Porsche of Tyson's and have never seen those prices quoted. ... It looks like they didn't want your business.

I don't remember what they quoted for an OCI, but it was Tysons that wanted $300 for the fuel filter drain.

You could be right, but I have no problem not giving my money to people that don't want it ;)

 

And frankly, it's not all BS.

Then why can Indies charge so much less? Why can other non-Porsche dealers (so they should have similar overhead for the size of the shop, training, personnel, etc..) charge less for the same work? High end car dealers charge what they do because they know may people believe they "must" take it to the dealer and believe there is something special that justifies the higher prices.

 

The dealership has to pay licenses and fees to Porsche for use of their software and diagnostic tools which they are going to check out when they do the service. And before you make the arguement, I am fully aware of the costs associated and know what independant shops need to go through to obtain it.

Not sure what you are talking about costs or "what they have to go through". I have a PIWIS account myself and you only have to pay for the pages you pull (usually less than $2/page). It's not difficult or costly. Any shop that deals with Porsches regularly has a Durametric which will perform most of the needed diagnostic functions (yes (especially with the 958) the functionality is limited compared to the actual PIWIS and PST units, but it gives everything that is needed for most issues). The Professional Dura is ~$700 and even if a shop wanted to get a real PIWIS they are only about ~$3k (high for DIY, but noting for a shop that does a lot of Porsche work).

 

It's more than just an oil change and you get the dealer stamp that it was completed properly.

And what is that little stamp in a booklet worth? Nothing. It's the actual maintenance records that people care about.

And I know for a fact that my "visual inspection" is more detailed that the dealer's (at least Rockville and Tysons) because they suck the oil out the top and never pull the under trays off for the OCI service.

One argument that I've heard over and over in threads like this is "the dealer will take care of you". Being a 996 owner I know fear and pain around the IMSB. There have been stories of cases where dealers went to bat for the owner and got PCNA to pony up to a new engine even though the warranty had expired. In all those cases it was for people that had bought multiple cars and done all service through that dealer. On the face of it that does sound like a good reason to be loyal to your dealer as new Porsche engines are not cheap, but when you actually do the risk analysis it falls down. The chances of a catastrophic failure on a well maintained (and which includes not being a garage queen that rots on its tires) modern car is pretty slim. Most Porsche dealers are also part of larger chains now and have higher employee turnover than they used to so even though you've given them all the money, you aren't likely to have that really long personal relationship that used to be possible.

If you can't or don't want to do your own service work, there is nothing wrong with that. We all have or own interests, skill sets, and priorities, it's all good. I'm just saying that no one should over pay for anything. Given that you mention Tysons, we are obviously in the same area and there are a few good Porsche specific Indies in our area that charge significantly less than the dealers.

As I said previously, if you really want to take it to the dealer, that's your business and I'm glad it works for you. I just do my part to make sure that people know they really do have an option and there is nothing special about what the dealer does that a good Indy (or yourself if you are so inclined) can do.

Seriously? You buy a $60,000 car, in my case, $81,000 car

Congratulations on trying to make yourself feel better by measuring what we paid for our cars (of which you have no idea what I paid so you just look like a fool). Hope that makes you feel better.

I'm also happy for you that you apparently didn't have to earn a dime in your life and therefore have no appreciation for your money. Many of us have actually worked to earn our money and we didn't build it up by pissing it away "just because".

If there is value in something, I'll pay for it. If not I'll put that money to better uses. In this case over 3 OCIs that's $838 dollars I've been able to do other things with (like my bumper swap).

If it's the same engine and everything, maybe you should have bought the Toureg or Q7

The engine does not make the car. If you haven't figured that out yet then maybe you should be looking at the trade-in.

You are paying for the brand

Only an idiot pays more than is needed and after owning a 911 for 13 years I can assure you that paying a "luxury" tax is not needed to properly maintain the vehicle without cutting corners and taking it to people that don't know anything about the car.

And before you suggest I should take it to a VAG dealer for my OCIs, maybe you should re-read what you quoted. I already have, they charge a reasonable rate, and I'll use them again on those occasions where doing it myself is not practical.

I have no problem if you want to take your car to the dealer and pay their prices. More power to you if you're good with that. I will not, however, standby and ignore it when people spew BS on why they think people "must" go to the dealer for anything other than the initial purchase.

It's not loud enough that I hear it in the cabin and I wouldn't call it abnormally loud when the engine is running.

 

I have noticed a couple of times that it runs for awhile after I shut off the engine even in cases where I don't think it's warranted. In those cases I would call it loud, but that's in relation to everything else being off and silent at the time.

Engine oil is what my SA/Tech think as well, but given the location my gut says transmission fluid (which of course can't have it's level checked easily). I agree that I think it's just a bad seal.

I also understand their reluctance to drop the engine, but unfortunately Porsche has a history of ignoring and discounting engine related issues so I am a bit jaded.

That is too funny. I believe my build was 10/7 if I remember correctly.

 

I got mine back today. They are calling it "seepage" (which is probably a fair term), but the best part was the official response being "some leaking is normal". I kid you not.

 

I couldn't help but laugh hysterically at that. When I explained my thoughts on that being "normal" and how I find it par for the course with the typical "burning oil is normal" he agreed off the record that he suspects there is more to this.

 

I'll keep watching it and bring it back in next time there is significant build up (or if it progresses). Mainly as long as it's documented as early and often as possible I'm good for now.

 

Will be interested to see what happens with yours. Two samples don't make a statistic, but I find it interesting that both ours were built right about the same time.

I dropped my off today (and got to see a CGT up close and personal too!). I'll update with anything I get back from my SA/Tech.

I checked mine over as well as I could and there was no sign of it coming from above that I could find including reaching up around it and wiping with a shop towel. My best guess is the seal between the transmission and engine. Out of curiosity, what is your build month? Mine is a 10/2012 build.

As far as the oil level, mine hasn't burned any oil over the 3 OCIs.

My 3rd OCI is coming up in a few hundred miles which I'll be doing myself so I'll keep an eye out.

Finally got around to my OCI tonight. Mine too has signs of something leaking right where the transmission meets the engine. No drips like your pic and nothing on the tray, but obviously not as it should be.

I'll call my dealer tomorrow and get it in to them to take a look at.

has anyone used the mobil 1 5W40 turbo diesel oil or had any experience with it?  i can't seem to get a straight answer from a mechanic.  walmart sells the four quart container for $24, but doesn't carry the 5W30 weight.

I believe you got this answered on 6spd, but I want to make sure it's documented here in case others see one thread and not the other.

That oil does not meet the acceptable specs specified by Porsche in the owners manual.

I know some dealers are using a 5w40 M1 oil for diesel OCIs, but to the best of my knowledge there is no C30 spec 5w40 M1 option. Since the dealer is doing it they can't void your warranty if it causes an issue, but if you are buying your own oil I would advise you follow the documented specs to save yourself potential headaches down the road.

Hello,

I helped a friend get her 2005 Boxter dried out after she found it was leaking (the "pan" on the passenger side under the soft top). When I plugged up my Durametric to make sure the Airbag light got cleared (passenger seat was out for a few weeks) I found it also had the C127 code as well.

She says she's had the "visit workshop" message for awhile now. She also says that the high beams will randomly turn on without her doing it and without the indicator turning on.

In researching the C127 code I found that the headlight issue may be related (if not the cause) and that the front module is the source.

What I haven't found is details about where the module is and how to replace it (all the references I found were of the dealer replacing it). Does anyone have this information?

Also, does anyone have the current part number? The ones I've seen don't appear to exist and since what I think it is from the AutoAtlanta diagrams I don't want to guess wrong at $450 ;)

Thanks,

-dave

Thanks for this thread. Her 996 started randomly beeping at me for no apparent reason on my commute home the other day. Found this thread via Rennlist, ordered a new bracket, and installed it today. Hopefully the beeping will be fixed now.

Thanks to those that figured it out so long ago and posted about it.

Hmm... I do not like the idea of making the Cayenne look like the Macan. Each should have their own look.

You mean like all the cars vaguely look like the 911? ;)

Ah yes... Porsche needs to learn that sales people do not buy cars - customers buy cars.

To be fair I know quite a few sales guys (not car sales) that drive Porsches...

My 3rd OCI is coming up in a few hundred miles which I'll be doing myself so I'll keep an eye out.

Did the filter cover get torqued back down properly? Had your oil level changed at all since the last OCI?

While mine was in the body shop I opened the hood and found some black liquid on the underside of the hood with a few drops on the engine cover. Looked like oil, but I have no explanation of how it got there and it hasn't come back in the last ~5k.

I'm pretty sure it's not. I believe the Pan's motor is longer and flatter than the Cayenne.

According to my local dealers parts website, the Pan's model designation for the motor is M48.20 while the Cayenne's is M48.02. They don't show part numbers for things though so I can't tell which major parts are different or the same. Autoatlanta.com has the PNs for the Cayenne, but don't have parts diagrams for the Pan.

Did you actually get the warning light or just proactively add? I'm about 10.5k and haven't seen the warning yet, but I'm waiting for the light before I add anything.