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gnat

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Everything posted by gnat

  1. For the record, according to PIWIS/TSI you have to break the shift buttons and then there are screws behind them. The shift buttons are not listed as a separate item, however, and only come with the trim piece itself (at $800-900 MSRP) :censored:
  2. I have a 2013 with the multi-function steering wheel. I got the wheel itself off but I can't figure out how to get the front trim piece off (that holds the MF controls). From parts diagrams I can tell it is a separate piece that can be replaced, but it's not obvious how it comes off. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. +1 for taking it back to the dealer. How bad was this coolant spray issue? I know in the older V8s where the hoses would let go the resulting mess would actually damage other components (starter and xfer case seals if I recall correctly) if not cleaned up throughly and quickly. Maybe this is a side effect of your coolant issue?
  4. Are you sure Bosche is the OEM supplier? I was given Valeo blades as the replacement from my dealer connection. The P/N I have is 900-26-5B for a 26" blade. Still waiting on the rear wiper so I don't have a P/N for it. If they aren't the OEM, I've been happy with them so far anyway.
  5. This is a relatively common issue, though it seems more prevalent in the 11s and 12s than 13+. It does seem to be happening more with the 14s though and I keep hearing that it is related to XM and/or iPhones running iOS 8.x. At least for the older units it seems that people go through a few rounds of software updates and resets, but ultimately end up with a new PCM being installed.
  6. Just did my 20k/2yr service the other day and found no sign of fresh leaking on mine. Still looks like it did I wiped it off about 3000 miles ago, so hopefully mine was just a spill from above after all. Thanks again for all the info about your issue.
  7. Thanks for the update. It's been about 2.5k since my dealer last looked at and cleaned mine. I need to crawl under and see how it is doing.
  8. This is the 958 forum (2011+). You want the 955/957 guys next door. In general though my advise would be for you to start with a cheaper car until you have better cash flow and/or DIY knowledge. Also remember that DIY is not just the knowledge/ability you have, but also having an appropriate place, ability to handle the vehicle being unavailable for a period of time, and the tools to make the needed fix. I don't know about the 955 forum here, but the Cayenne forum on Rennlist has a good sticky about common issues to look for in the older versions as well as a pretty active community for the older models. Generally they are good cars, but parts are not usually cheap and labor tends to have a premium too if it's not something you can do yourself.
  9. That's indeed a valid consideration and I have no problem with anyone having someone else do the work (most of the work done on our cars is done by other people as I don't have the space/time to do anything but the simple stuff). My point is that you can get the same quality (possibly better) work done at places other than the dealer for much more reasonable rates. I like futzing with my Cayenne as much as I like driving it. Look me up on 6spd and you'll see a raft of things I've done because I enjoy it. If I have the time and think it's something I can manage, I'll tackle it. If I don't have the time or ability, I'll pay for someone else to take care of it for me. Which is interesting given that you mention Tysons. Under their old HBL moniker they had a horrible reputation for damaging cars and then denying it. It's only because Rockville pissed me off (by damaging my Cayenne and not doing what I asked them to do) that I've recently started going to them (and so far I've been happy). I don't remember what they quoted for an OCI, but it was Tysons that wanted $300 for the fuel filter drain. You could be right, but I have no problem not giving my money to people that don't want it ;) Then why can Indies charge so much less? Why can other non-Porsche dealers (so they should have similar overhead for the size of the shop, training, personnel, etc..) charge less for the same work? High end car dealers charge what they do because they know may people believe they "must" take it to the dealer and believe there is something special that justifies the higher prices. Not sure what you are talking about costs or "what they have to go through". I have a PIWIS account myself and you only have to pay for the pages you pull (usually less than $2/page). It's not difficult or costly. Any shop that deals with Porsches regularly has a Durametric which will perform most of the needed diagnostic functions (yes (especially with the 958) the functionality is limited compared to the actual PIWIS and PST units, but it gives everything that is needed for most issues). The Professional Dura is ~$700 and even if a shop wanted to get a real PIWIS they are only about ~$3k (high for DIY, but noting for a shop that does a lot of Porsche work). And what is that little stamp in a booklet worth? Nothing. It's the actual maintenance records that people care about. And I know for a fact that my "visual inspection" is more detailed that the dealer's (at least Rockville and Tysons) because they suck the oil out the top and never pull the under trays off for the OCI service. One argument that I've heard over and over in threads like this is "the dealer will take care of you". Being a 996 owner I know fear and pain around the IMSB. There have been stories of cases where dealers went to bat for the owner and got PCNA to pony up to a new engine even though the warranty had expired. In all those cases it was for people that had bought multiple cars and done all service through that dealer. On the face of it that does sound like a good reason to be loyal to your dealer as new Porsche engines are not cheap, but when you actually do the risk analysis it falls down. The chances of a catastrophic failure on a well maintained (and which includes not being a garage queen that rots on its tires) modern car is pretty slim. Most Porsche dealers are also part of larger chains now and have higher employee turnover than they used to so even though you've given them all the money, you aren't likely to have that really long personal relationship that used to be possible. If you can't or don't want to do your own service work, there is nothing wrong with that. We all have or own interests, skill sets, and priorities, it's all good. I'm just saying that no one should over pay for anything. Given that you mention Tysons, we are obviously in the same area and there are a few good Porsche specific Indies in our area that charge significantly less than the dealers. As I said previously, if you really want to take it to the dealer, that's your business and I'm glad it works for you. I just do my part to make sure that people know they really do have an option and there is nothing special about what the dealer does that a good Indy (or yourself if you are so inclined) can do.
  10. Congratulations on trying to make yourself feel better by measuring what we paid for our cars (of which you have no idea what I paid so you just look like a fool). Hope that makes you feel better. I'm also happy for you that you apparently didn't have to earn a dime in your life and therefore have no appreciation for your money. Many of us have actually worked to earn our money and we didn't build it up by pissing it away "just because". If there is value in something, I'll pay for it. If not I'll put that money to better uses. In this case over 3 OCIs that's $838 dollars I've been able to do other things with (like my bumper swap). The engine does not make the car. If you haven't figured that out yet then maybe you should be looking at the trade-in. Only an idiot pays more than is needed and after owning a 911 for 13 years I can assure you that paying a "luxury" tax is not needed to properly maintain the vehicle without cutting corners and taking it to people that don't know anything about the car. And before you suggest I should take it to a VAG dealer for my OCIs, maybe you should re-read what you quoted. I already have, they charge a reasonable rate, and I'll use them again on those occasions where doing it myself is not practical. I have no problem if you want to take your car to the dealer and pay their prices. More power to you if you're good with that. I will not, however, standby and ignore it when people spew BS on why they think people "must" go to the dealer for anything other than the initial purchase.
  11. It's not loud enough that I hear it in the cabin and I wouldn't call it abnormally loud when the engine is running. I have noticed a couple of times that it runs for awhile after I shut off the engine even in cases where I don't think it's warranted. In those cases I would call it loud, but that's in relation to everything else being off and silent at the time.
  12. Engine oil is what my SA/Tech think as well, but given the location my gut says transmission fluid (which of course can't have it's level checked easily). I agree that I think it's just a bad seal. I also understand their reluctance to drop the engine, but unfortunately Porsche has a history of ignoring and discounting engine related issues so I am a bit jaded.
  13. That is too funny. I believe my build was 10/7 if I remember correctly. I got mine back today. They are calling it "seepage" (which is probably a fair term), but the best part was the official response being "some leaking is normal". I kid you not. I couldn't help but laugh hysterically at that. When I explained my thoughts on that being "normal" and how I find it par for the course with the typical "burning oil is normal" he agreed off the record that he suspects there is more to this. I'll keep watching it and bring it back in next time there is significant build up (or if it progresses). Mainly as long as it's documented as early and often as possible I'm good for now. Will be interested to see what happens with yours. Two samples don't make a statistic, but I find it interesting that both ours were built right about the same time.
  14. I dropped my off today (and got to see a CGT up close and personal too!). I'll update with anything I get back from my SA/Tech. I checked mine over as well as I could and there was no sign of it coming from above that I could find including reaching up around it and wiping with a shop towel. My best guess is the seal between the transmission and engine. Out of curiosity, what is your build month? Mine is a 10/2012 build. As far as the oil level, mine hasn't burned any oil over the 3 OCIs.
  15. Finally got around to my OCI tonight. Mine too has signs of something leaking right where the transmission meets the engine. No drips like your pic and nothing on the tray, but obviously not as it should be. I'll call my dealer tomorrow and get it in to them to take a look at.
  16. I believe you got this answered on 6spd, but I want to make sure it's documented here in case others see one thread and not the other. That oil does not meet the acceptable specs specified by Porsche in the owners manual. I know some dealers are using a 5w40 M1 oil for diesel OCIs, but to the best of my knowledge there is no C30 spec 5w40 M1 option. Since the dealer is doing it they can't void your warranty if it causes an issue, but if you are buying your own oil I would advise you follow the documented specs to save yourself potential headaches down the road.
  17. Hello, I helped a friend get her 2005 Boxter dried out after she found it was leaking (the "pan" on the passenger side under the soft top). When I plugged up my Durametric to make sure the Airbag light got cleared (passenger seat was out for a few weeks) I found it also had the C127 code as well. She says she's had the "visit workshop" message for awhile now. She also says that the high beams will randomly turn on without her doing it and without the indicator turning on. In researching the C127 code I found that the headlight issue may be related (if not the cause) and that the front module is the source. What I haven't found is details about where the module is and how to replace it (all the references I found were of the dealer replacing it). Does anyone have this information? Also, does anyone have the current part number? The ones I've seen don't appear to exist and since what I think it is from the AutoAtlanta diagrams I don't want to guess wrong at $450 ;) Thanks, -dave
  18. Thanks for this thread. Her 996 started randomly beeping at me for no apparent reason on my commute home the other day. Found this thread via Rennlist, ordered a new bracket, and installed it today. Hopefully the beeping will be fixed now. Thanks to those that figured it out so long ago and posted about it.
  19. You mean like all the cars vaguely look like the 911? ;) To be fair I know quite a few sales guys (not car sales) that drive Porsches...
  20. My 3rd OCI is coming up in a few hundred miles which I'll be doing myself so I'll keep an eye out. Did the filter cover get torqued back down properly? Had your oil level changed at all since the last OCI? While mine was in the body shop I opened the hood and found some black liquid on the underside of the hood with a few drops on the engine cover. Looked like oil, but I have no explanation of how it got there and it hasn't come back in the last ~5k.
  21. I'm pretty sure it's not. I believe the Pan's motor is longer and flatter than the Cayenne. According to my local dealers parts website, the Pan's model designation for the motor is M48.20 while the Cayenne's is M48.02. They don't show part numbers for things though so I can't tell which major parts are different or the same. Autoatlanta.com has the PNs for the Cayenne, but don't have parts diagrams for the Pan.
  22. Did you actually get the warning light or just proactively add? I'm about 10.5k and haven't seen the warning yet, but I'm waiting for the light before I add anything.
  23. V1 Remote Display in storage pocket Options and opinions about installing the V1 itself have been discussed elsewhere so all I will say there is that I opted to use a fuse tap and ran it from the right side fuse box (I used the right headlight fuse (17 IIRC)). The main problem I had with installing the display was where to put it as it seems like every square inch of the dash is covered in buttons or something you need to see. After poking around and looking I found that the "non-smokers pocket" in front of the gear selector appeared to be a perfect location. The pocket is larger at the top than the bottom. Sizing it up I found that with holes cut on the front and back the display could slide in and be supported by the remaining pocket material as the wider part at the top matched the depth of the display nearly perfectly. I did have to grind away part of the display's case for the best fit though. I also trimmed a hole out on the side for the cable to plug in: Ultimately I had to extend the cable hole downward as well as add a hole on the front (first picture) that allows the cable to run in, runs back out the side, and then plugs it. It also gives somewhere for the excess cable to go. The next problem I ran into was getting the console apart. In a thread about changing out the trim pieces some one gave me the tricks to get the gear selector off (need to twist the ring at the bottom of the knob to unlock it and then pull the locking button outward (towards the PCM)) and center vents off. What wasn't included in those directions was that the PCM needed to come out as well and the LED that lights up the pocket (though mine never has...) is annoying (more later). The trick to the vents (also the side vents too) is that there are little tabs you can see inside when you move the slats around. Those need to be pried inwards (towards the center of the vent) to make it easier to pop the vent out. Where I ran into issues was that I initially could only see the two next to the PCM (pulling a side vent was much easier and let me get a better idea of what I was dealing with). There is also a fifth one at the top which I never could see the tab for while it was installed. Additionally there is a cable plugged into the bottom of the vents (it just pulls right off). The method that worked best for me was a small steel bar (an awl should do) I had to pry the tabs with. I started with the bottom (since I could get my fingers under the bottom of the vent to pull) and worked around while pulling. Here are some pictures (right center vent) with the tabs circled which will hopefully make it clearer: After that the PCM had to be removed so that the rear of the trim could be lifted out. I managed to do without disconnecting the PCM itself, but it was challenging due to how the routed the wire for the pocket LED in a way that gives almost no slack. I had to use a pick to de-route that wire which gave me just enough slack to get the trim over the selector post. Here is the center console with the trim removed. The red circle is the annoyingly routed LED. The green circle is a hole that was already there that I routed the display's cable through. The extra hole I mentioned cutting into the pocket matches up with this hole. Routing the cable out of the center console was a bit challenging as there is no space at all in there. When I ended up doing was lifting the rest of the center console. To do this you need to unbolt it (two torx screws under the pocket) and just pull up on the leather bolsters forward of the grab handles. This let me run the cable towards the rear of the car, around a bit, and then forward again along the outside of the console (for reference the left side of the pic is the gear selector unit): And here is how the cable comes out of the center console at the dash: There is actually a lot of empty space behind the trim piece above the glove box, so that's where I chose to run it. I suggest that unlike me you wait to reinstall the vent until after the trim is back on . You can get it back on, but it would be easier otherwise. On my cheap basic trim there is a trough behind the sliver bit at the top that was a perfect fit for the cable to run in: And finally here it is put back together and working: Since I couldn't find anything about installing the remote display in a 958 I hope this helps/inspires others. Author gnat Category Cayenne (92A) - Mods Submitted 02/23/2014 08:18 PM  
  24. Diesel Oil Change via drain plug There is a lot of useful information out there about changing the diesel's oil yourself, but it's kind of spread out a bit and there is a lack of pics. So now that mine is done, here is my attempt to put it all in one place. Parts: 8 liters of C30 or VW 507.00 oil Oil filter w/O-Ring (95810722220) Drain plug crush washer (N-013-815-7) Tools: Ratchet Torque Wrench 32mm socket 10mm socket 6mm allan driver Extension bar for the ratchet Plenty of rags O-Ring pick (I just used a very small flat head) Notes: The crush washer is available from VW dealers (in case one is more local and you forgot to order one with your filter). I used Castrol oil from a VW dealer meeting the VW 507.00 spec. I used 5w30 oil because that is what the manual states. Two Porsche dealers have told me that they use 5w40 instead. I used the drain plug for the oil change, but according to my dealer the recommendation from Porsche is to use an extractor. I'm not stating or clearly showing where I put my jack stands as I don't know if I used a proper place or not. Obviously I survived, but that doesn't mean it's correct. Steps: Open the hood. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back. Jack up the front of the vehicle. The jack points are right behind the front wheels. Remove the under carriage trays with the 10mm socket. Get your oil pan ready and remove the drain plug with the 6mm allan driver. If you've taken just the rear tray off there are two plugs visible, there is a 3rd if you pull the front tray too. Only one takes a 6mm allan. If you are having to use something other than a 6mm allan then you are trying to open the wrong plug. Loosen the cap for the oil filter with the 32mm socket. Unscrew it enough so the o-ring is visible. I pulled the plug from the dipstick tube, but I'm not sure this is required. Open the oil fill cap. Again not sure it's required, but the procedure my dad taught me as a kid was to open all that stuff. Let it drain (I let it go for about half an hour or so). Clean off the drain plug and your tools while you wait. Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug. Mine was stuck pretty good and I had to find some pliers. Wipe off the bottom of the oil pan and replace the drain plug. According to the "WM 1001IN Tightening torques for engine" document the torque value should be 30nm. Wipe any new drips off. Reinstall the under tray(s). Drop the car back onto the ground. To remove the oil filter from the cover, pull on it while twisting the cap. There are some slots and tabs that seem to need to line up. Wipe the cap clean. Remove the old o-ring from the oil filter cover and replace with the new one. Fit the new filter into the container. The nipple fits into a hole on the right side (it was a little difficult to see due to some old oil still in there). Screw the oil filter cap on and then torque to 35nm. Fill it back up. Put the plug back in the dipstick tube. Snap the cover back on. Reset your change interval. I used a Durametric. Warm up the engine, find a level place, and check the oil level. Notes: Technically you only need to remove the rear under tray. I removed both to make sure I wouldn't end up with a royal mess. I think it would have been fine, but I'll continue removing both for future changes. I put 7.5 liters back in and after the car warmed up (my kingdom for a real dipstick!) and it tells me I am bang on the max fill. It's more than I wanted in there, but it works. Next time I'll do 7.25 and then add as needed. If you follow my recommendations about opening the oil filter, it won't make a mess (looking at you BMW!!!). All it all it was pretty straight forward. Pics: All ready to get started: Looking from front to rear with both trays off. The silver colored bar in the middle of the picture sits right under the oil pan. Oil drain plug views: On a lift with only the rear tray off. Red arrow points to the plug. Close up while on the lift: View from my back with both trays off: Engine bay with the cover off. Purple circles = mounting nipples for the cover. Blue circle = Dipstick tube Red arrow = Points to the oil filter Green arrow = Points to the filler neck Author gnat Category Cayenne (92A) - Maintenance Submitted 02/23/2014 08:28 PM Updated 01/30/2016 11:30 AM  
  25. Drain water from Diesel fuel filter I almost didn't do this myself, but when the local VW dealer balked at the job and upped it from 0.5 hours to 1 hour ($120) that changed my mind and I got my body shop guy to let me use some floor space (and his air compressor as it turns out) for a couple of hours. I say a couple of hours, but it took 60 minute even from the time I pulled it into the shop until all was put back together. 15-20 of that as spent trying to figure out why the fuel extractor wasn't working (it's not a pump like I thought, it needed an air compressor). There was also some chatting and taking pics, so really I think (especially after you've done it once) 30 minutes is doable. I only did the "WM 2034EN Draining water from fuel filter" process as I'm at 10k, but the only difference with the 20k service is that you discard the filter and install a new one. This is an exceptionally easy job. The only "difficult" part is cleaning up the diesel that gets on you and the tools. Parts: None if you are just draining. New filter element if you are changing. Tools: Apporpriate rachet Torque Wrench capable of 5lbs. 4-6" extention for rachet T20 driver bit for ratchet 4+ good rags Nitril gloves Fuel extractor 2 hose clamps Small thin bladed tool or flat head screwdriver for prying. Notes: The official fuel extractor is available from VAG dealers (special order) and is referenced as "diesel extractor VAS 5226". When I checked my local VW dealer over the summer they wanted $90. I got mine for $60 from a non-public source. The VAS 5226 needs an air compressor connected to it's handle (no directions included or specified in PIWIS). Any extractor that will hold at least 100ml and get to the bottom of the filter case (it would have to be pretty big not to get down there) should do fine. Except for dealing with the engine cover, all items referenced are on the (facing) left side of the engine bay. PIWIS calls for "commercially available assembly pliers" with a part number/description of "Nr.72 Pos.1". I did try to source them and found the MFG but either they were ridiculously expensive or I couldn't source them. As shown in the pics I used a couple small vise grips. Steps labeled with "From PIWIS" are exact copies of the text. When I say have your rags in place, I mean it. Steps: Open the hood. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back. Remove the panel at the top of the trim panel (next to firewall). It folds up and towards the fender and then will pull away. Remove the expansion rivets from the front panel (not shown) and remove the panel. The PIWIS instructions also have your remove the front trim panel (find and remove the rivets) as well, but I was able to get the left panel out and back in without messing with the front panel. Remove the 3 expansion rivets on the left trim panel and remove the panel. Two at the bottom and 1 at the top (see pics 1 and 2). Pry up the center "rectangle" part and when you pull it out enough the whole rivet will pull out without much force. Use the hose clamps to pinch off the two supply lines. Facing the filter housing from the bumper the supply lines are the "bottom" and "top right". Stuff/Wrap rags (I used two) around the body of the filter housing under the cap. When you pull the cap off, fuel will come out. Not only does it smell horrible, but PIWIS specifically warns against getting it on coolant hoses. Use your ratchet and the T20 driver to remove the 5 screws on the top of the housing. Make sure your rags are in place. Gently pull the cover off the housing. Mine had a good seal and I had to use a small screw driver to pry between the housing and cover. As soon as the seal popped, fuel bubbled out (hope you had your rags in place!!!) and the cover lifts free. Move the cover out of the way. As shown in the pics I moved it to the side and put it on a rag. Lift out the fuel filter. This thing holds a lot of fuel so be prepared to hold it there for a bit. Discard the filter if you are changing it or set it aside (where it won't get dirty) if you are only draining water. Insert the hose of the extractor to the bottom of the housing and extract at least 100ml (according to PIWIS) of fuel. Reinsert the fuel filter (or the new one). Put the cover back on the housing and finger tighten the screws. Torque the screws to 5 foot pounds. Remove the hose clamps. Remove the rags wrapped around the housing and cleanup any spilled fuel. From PIWIS: Allow the engine to run at idle speed for a few minutes without pressing the accelerator and then switch the engine off again. From PIWIS: The fuel system is bled automatically. Check the fuel system for leaks. Close the hood. From PIWIS: perform a test drive with at least one full-throttle acceleration and check the high-pressure area for leaks again. Open the hood. Check again for leaks. Reinstall the left trim panel. Reinstall the front trim panel if you removed it. Reinstall the upper cover. Reinstall the engine cover. Close the hood. Pics: The expansion rivet: The rivet points (yellow arrows) for the left panel: The filter housing. Red arrows indicate the screws. Green arrows are the supply lines. Blue arrow is the return line. My vise grips are already crimping the lines here. The line/tube that covers the left most screw just lifts out of place off the coolant tank (and I now realize I forgot to put it back in place...). The cover off to the side. The blue is the top of the filter. The filter: The drained fuel in the extractor. No sign of water. Author gnat Category Cayenne (92A) - Maintenance Submitted 02/23/2014 08:35 PM  
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