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Duffy3074

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Everything posted by Duffy3074

  1. Duffy3074
    My system worked and I didn't need the diagnostic routines, I didn't consider it worth the cost of getting Porsche to enable the option within the DME. The wiring is very simple but the coding slightly more awkward for the DIY'er.
  2. Duffy3074
    Good stuff. As mentioned before, it's a very simple system and an easy retrofit. :)
  3. Duffy3074
    It's a subtle effect and not the same as going to high beam. If it wasn't working the headlamps would not go through the start up and self levelling cycle, there would be no movement at all. You've done it. :)
  4. Duffy3074
    Well done :)
  5. Duffy3074
    Sorry no you don't need to do any of that. It's literally one bolt and a push on clip to the arm, it's very straightforward to do. It bolts onto this (on either the upper or lower bolt on the left hand side of this crossmember that hold the black section onto the alloy section on the car - sorry can't remember which but it was obvious enough when I did it), the plastic section just pushes straight into the arm and the plastic pin is pushed through to spread the lugs and job done
  6. Duffy3074
    I found there was a narrow range on the sensors where the headlamps responded, this was a small range either side of where 'level' would be when they were positioned on the car. Anything out with that obviously didn't make sense to the litronic ECU and there was no response.
  7. Duffy3074
    If you read my post you'll see how Porsche do it..... Switched live from the heated washers!!!!!!! On signal from the headlamps!!!!!!! No need to go to the ignition switch, no need to muck about with fuses! It's a simple system, don't overthink it. Well done for persevering. :)
  8. Duffy3074
    Ok pins are as follows from my install using an original fit ECU and loom/. Pins 1-4 are for the left hand headlamp AHVAC (follow the colour codes) Pins 5-8 are for the right hand headlamp AHVAC (As above) Pin 18 - earth (Brown) Pin 15 - signal on high beam (white) Pin 10 - signal on light (Grey) Pin 13 - rear sensor signal return (blue) Pin 12 - front sensor signal return (blue) Pin 14 - +5V supply to both sensors (both red/white - doesn't matter which goes to which) Pin 16 - switched 12V (Black/red) Pin 17 - earth for both sensors. (Brown/black) These are all you need for the system to work properly. The pin 10 to pin 16 jumper essentially provides a switched 12v and should work, however I followed the OEM approved retrofit way with tapping into the heated washer jet +12V for that. I would go with what is there, leave the jumper in place and see if it works as it should.
  9. Duffy3074
    Bear in mind that you are using a factory 'behind the dash' install and loom to do a retrofit (inside the boot) ergo some of the wiring is going to be different, again don't overthink it. You need to plumb in both sensors and light clusters. You need an earth You need a switched 12V (taken from the feed to the heated washers is the factory approved way of doing it) You need two signal feeds from the light cluster (taken from the wiring right next to the mounting position for the ECU) one to tell the ECU that the lights have been switched on (the feed to the low beam) and one to tell it that full beam has been selected, so they rotate up. I don't have access to a wiring diagram at the moment (it's Saturday night and I'm doing family stuff) but that's all you need, nothing more nothing less, it will work with this. I'll check for a diagram tomorrow and feed back more then.
  10. Duffy3074
    Lol Thick bar steward is a self deprecating euphimism in this context. The thick part infers that, on this occasion, I was being a bit stupid, the bar steward is the euphimism relating to me perhaps being fatherless at this point ;) I'll try and proof read what you've done over the next couple of days. :)
  11. Duffy3074
    1. One big enough for the bolt but only barely! 2. I just put it in the middle of the dimple that Porsche use for this (look at the pictures you've taken from my thread, you can see it! :) ) 3. I don't think so but there are only 2 big bolts that go through the black crossmember into the aluminium sub frame that goes over the driveshaft on that side, it mounts on here (put the arm onto the coffin arm mount and you'll see where it sits easily enough) 4. I took the wires up to join the wiring at the back of the left headlamp and joined it into the loom there with the feeds to that headlamp and into the shell through the large grommet that this all runs through. A metal coathanger, gaffer tape and silicon spray are your friends when it comes to getting the new wires through without cutting the grommett.
  12. Duffy3074
    Looked at the wiring diagram and what I had on mine, the retrofit kit didn't use pins 9 and 11, so neither did I. It's the grey and the white that are your 2 power feeds. I suspect that there may have been a possibility for adjusting view range with speed but I've never heard of that being implemented in either a factory fit or aftermarket (you'd end up with the possibility of blinding other drivers as you got faster with that) My Audi S8 has a speed signal to the light ECU but that's because it angles the headlamps as you corner at low speed, the Boxster doesn't do that. With both suspension sensors connected it measures the angle of the car and adjusts the headlamps accordingly, it just works. It's dead easy to rig it up with a 12V battery or power supply on the bench, just make sure that the ECU, both headlamps and both sensors are jury rigged in correctly, connect the earth and the two 12V signal wires and start to play with your sensors. The headlamps will do a calibration/movement cycle and that's you. Going to so the headlamp washers as well? Done half a job otherwise.......... ;)
  13. Duffy3074
    If you mount the ECU in the factory approved space (eg the same as mine) the cable you need is right next to it.......... Do you actually need the speed signal? Mine wasn't wired for that at all.
  14. Duffy3074
    I'll give you clues here! You've got a high beam signal but what about low beam/initial turn on??? ;) There are 2 different ECU's but they perform identically so no need to worry about that, I can't advise about the pins.
  15. Duffy3074
    Since I bought the connectors on their own, I just made up my own loom which was straightforward, I'd rather do that than disturb the pins in the connectors but I can understand your motives on that one. I'm watching this thread and if I see something I can help with, I will. :)
  16. Duffy3074
    Make sure the sellers include the tails of the wires from the plugs you are getting and just solder/heatshrink onto that and leave the pins alone, less hassle!
  17. Duffy3074
    The rear sensor has a right angled metal bracket with an obvious large bolt hole, the front one has the small bracket with the captive nut that you bolt into through the subframe. http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55572&page=16 Top photo shows these. Yeah I read the same doomsayer threads but the clue for me was that Porsche could offer a retrofit kit and if that's the case............... I didn't try to connect it to the DME as all this would have provided was a few diagnostic options, since mine worked perfectly (and it is a simple system) I wasn't overly fussed about that. Get it done, don't overthink it and just following the correct wiring colours and it'll work. :) :)
  18. Duffy3074
    It's actually very obvious when you have the parts, you need to drill one hole in the front subframe to mount the front sensor (you've read my thread and used my photo's here) and then the rear sensor mounts onto one of the bolts that goes from the black cross member and into the alloy suspension frame above the driveshaft, again very obvious when you have the parts. The photo of the camber adjusting bolt you've taken from my thread has nothing to do with the litronics. I'm surprised nobody else has done this as it's actually a very simple system.
  19. Duffy3074
    Yes the dynamic levelling is very straightforward. As mentioned, the only hassle I had was getting the connectors for the self levelling sensors that attach to the suspension arms, I eventually got them out of a scrapyard as Mercedes use them for a stepper motor on the older C class saloons which is mounted just in front of the engine bulkhead (Firewall depending on where you are I suppose) I used a wiring diagram from one of the fleabay 986 workshop manuals and just copied the factory wiring routes and colours, I had it working on the bench before fitting it to the car. One word of warning here is that ALL components and wiring must be present before it'll show any sign of life whatsoever, I assume it conducts a continuity test on start up and if something's missing it plays possum. This thread goes into my 986 resto and shows exactly what I did. http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55572&page=16 I didn't even try to connect it to the DME as it's not required for a fully functioning system (the factory retrofit kits didn't connect to the DME either so why bother?) Good luck, persevere as it's well worth it. :)
  20. Duffy3074
    Looked at this is in a lot more detail. The 986 plastic inlet manifolds have the mounts for the fuel injectors built into the bottom, whilst the 996 has a seperate alloy mounting plate below this into and onto which the injectors and fuel rail go. This accounts for the extra installed height of the 996 inlets. I don't want to drop the 3.2 (as it's tight enough with the aftermarket exhaust manifolds and exhaust that I have) so I'm looking at the 987 3.2 Boxster manirfolds instead. I'll keep you updated.
  21. Duffy3074
    Thanks Richard. :)
  22. Duffy3074
    Decided I'm going to do this anyway. The 996 head fitment is the same, I'm using the same injector rails, etc and it's all been done before as part of a 3.4 install, so it should be do-able. I'm going to do the 987 airbox whilst I'm in there (don't like cone filters) I'll update on progress. :help:
  23. Duffy3074
    Got this finished today (car's off the road for the winter and been doing other stuff) The retrofit works perfectly and has full self levelling and high beam raise. I used the full bhuna litronics control unit (one that had been behind the dash originally) rather than the retrofit one. I fitted both front and rear sensors (which are a straight bolt on to either front or rear crossmembers as required) and made up a loom using the original colours, 1cm soldered joints with 3 cm adhesive shrinkwrap and 4mm wide cloth tape for that OEM look, and fitted the litronic control unit in the retrofit position (on the righthand inner wing in the frunk) The only variance from the factory wiring pattern was that I used the retrofit manner of providing the unit with a switched 12 volts (that's from the right hand heated washer feed) I did not connect it to the DME/diagnostic system, essentially to prevent error codes being thrown up as the car goes 'WTF?' every time the lights are switched on. I've also retrofitted the litronic washer system, again very straightforward. Only thing that proved tricky until I worked out what was going on, was that the litronic control unit played dead until both headlamps and both sensors were wired in completely (i did a technology test on the bench before fitting it all and thought that a partial set up would be enough to see how things were) it obviously does a self diagnostic on start up. It can be done. :)
  24. Duffy3074
    Hi I'm looking at upgrading the throttle body on my 986 to a 996 body and 'T' piece. I do however also have the chance of a complete 996 inlet manifold set up for a good price. I'm aware of the issues of height etc and can cope with that without an issue. Has anybody done this swap before and is it worthwhile? Thanks!
  25. Duffy3074
    http://www.centregravity.co.uk/ Give this lot a call, they'll get it sorted if anybody can.
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