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Duffy3074

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Everything posted by Duffy3074

  1. I'm surprised at it controlling how much the lights move, doesn't the litronic ECU decide that, after all that's where the levelling sensors input to. It also works on the bench with no DME connection at all, move a sensor and the lights adjust.
  2. So if I don't connect to the DME, what will I lose other than the diagnostic functions exactly? The system works on it's own, if I manually set the litronics through the adjusters, they will still self level and go up and down driven by the sensors. Still better than the basic retrofit
  3. If the system works on it's own as a 'stand alone' why should the DME present any problem? The og/bu wire goes to pin 3 on the diagnostic socket and should be seen easily enough by durametric.
  4. There's a small loom that needs to be made up, the only tricky part is the plugs for the ECU and the headlamp motor control for the headlamps and the levelling sensors. I managed to get the plugs from a breaker for the ECU and lamps, the sensor plugs are the same as Mercedes used for an under hood stepper motor on the 'C' class saloon, ergo readily avialable in breakers yards here. I've already had it working properly on the bench (the system does nothing until both headlamps and sensors are plugged in and it's given a 12 volt feed, an earth and then 2 x 12v feeds to simulate dipped beam and then main beam coming on) after that it self levels and then if you move one of the sensors, the lamps go up and down as they should. Quiet straightforward and it gives the full functionality of the original factory fit litronics rather than the limited functionality of the proper retrofit.
  5. I'm busy doing this at the moment and have had it working on the bench. The front and rear sensors bolt straight on without any issues, the only hassle is running the 3 wires from there to the ECU in the front. The system, externally, just needs a switched 12v feed, an earth and 2 signals from the lights, one for dipped beam coming on and one for main beam. Very straightforward :-)
  6. Would 'tighten it up' be a sensible suggestion.............................
  7. What controvery..............it's the same part, the rest is just plain metal
  8. I'll post some pics once I've done the pod. :) I'm going to wire up the cruise as if it was for the original dash as I can't find any mention of anybody losing cruiose functionality after installing the 996 cluster. Hopefully that'll work!
  9. I'm doing mine at the moment as well, however I'm also putting in a 996 C2 'improved' cluster, so I don't know whether I can wire into the new cluster or the motronic unit in the boot, any suggestions welcome on that one! The car is a 2001 Boxster 'S'.
  10. If it's this then it's readily available second hand and is easy to replace. There are two studs that go into the shell that need to come out (They sometimes come out with the two nuts attached to them) and you need to unbolt the rear anti-roll bar (swaybar) and the control arms hat are also attached to it. The 4 studs in the lower end can be punched out if it helps access. It also has two bolts holding the gearbox mount onto it along with another 2 that go into the black crossmember, remember and support the gearbox and engine!
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