Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About bet

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    05 Cayenne Turbo
    08 135i
  • Former cars
    96 993
    01 Boxster
    01 Carrera
    08 Cayman S
  1. 1. I plan on replacing my Polyrib belt this weekend (part of my 60k service) and I have looked at the DIY. It does not appear all that difficult. Are looks deceiving? For those of you have done it are there any tips/tricks/gotchas I should know about. I have not looked too closely at the tensioner does it have stop point so I know when I have retensioned it properly after properly routing the new belt? 2. I am also replacing my coolant tank (yeah I have a leak). I have looked at the DIY for this and read many post on the topic here and on Rennlist. I saw mention of removing t
  2. You are correct there are many people who do opt for the spring only switch and don't report any problems. However this does not mean it is necessarily an optimized set up. I had the spring only set up on my former 993 (H&R springs done by the prior owner). It looked great and the ride seemed fine when I bought the car. Since purchasing that car I had the opportunity to drive some other 993’s with varying suspension setups. It became clear that the spring only switch utilizing the factory dampers was not the best set up. The lowering of the car improved some handling characteristi
  3. If spring only changes are fine, then why does the ROW M030 suspension come with different springs and dampers? Given the idea that the factory dampers are fine for aftermarket springs that lower the car and have different rates then why does Porsche have separate dampers for its springs that have different rates and only slightly lower the car from the "stock" US ride?
  4. Another thought on this. Many times the aftermarket springs lower the car too much for the stock dampers, which can cause the dampers to wear very quickly and/or fail quickly. This happened on my former 993. Additionally I found the H&R springs on the 993 to match well with the factory dampers which resulted in "choppy" ride. The ride was compliant but not controlled well because the progressive nature of the springs were not matched properly with the factory dampers. From my past experience I would not change the springs only. The labor cost for the springs only vs. new dampers a
  5. My 996 has tripped the CEL a couple of times in the last couple of weeks. I went to an independent shop today to get the codes read. They inform me that the Porsche System Tester should be used because it gives more information with regard to Porsche than a regular OBDII reader. They claim OBDII reader just gives generic codes while the PST2 gives more specific and detailed information regarding the codes. Of course there is a substantial increase in cost to use the PST2 (only one guy uses it) vs. an OBDII reader. Is true or am I being upsold something that is really no benefit? There wa
  6. So was cleaning out my front radiators these weekend when I discovered that some of the plastic pieces on the underside of my front bumper are broken. I need some help with part numbers to order some new pieces. The parts are located on each corner and consist of air ducting. I have part numbers on a couple of the pieces they are: 996.504.604.00 (passenger) 996.504.603.00 (driver) There is also a little flap that hangs down but I didn’t see any part number on them. Does anyone know the numbers and/or have a exploded drawing of the under side of the front bumper? Is this a big assem
  7. Zaino is excellent. The Z2-Pro is a great product along with Z8. Zaino provides a very durable finish. The look is very reflective. The one drawback is that paint flaws are not covered up. The use of a good polish (that does not contain fillers and/or oils) is important. Zaino has a such a polish now but I have not had a chance to try it yet. I can highly recommend the Z2-Pro and Z8. The Z7 car wash is also a very good product. I used Menzerna polishes to prep before the Z application (before Zaino had its polish out). As for clay...the mothers clay or bluemagic clay that can be boug
  8. In my experience your A/C is not normal and you should have it serviced. The A/C on my 996 blows out ice cold air. So cold that the vents have to be positioned to not blow directly on me once the cabin cools down. The same was true of my former boxster.
  9. My car is making me a liar. Right after I posted I went out to look at it as it has been about 2.5 hours since I last drove it. The relief valve is no longer stuck in the open position and is instead working the way I thought it was suppose to. The coolant has come back into the tank and is between the Min and Max marks. Seems like a silly question but can the coolant appear correct in the expansion tank but in fact be low. Maybe from “air” in the system or am I thinking incorrectly? Is the remedy to attempt to add coolant like described in the third radiator DIY?
  10. Car 2001 C2. My temperature light started flashing today while driving in town with the A/C on. The temp gauge had the needle basically between the 8 and 0 on the 180 mark (normal). The ambient temperature was around 89 degrees Fahrenheit with very high humidity. I know the flashing light can mean basically two things...low coolant levels or a fault in engine compartment fan. I have a couple of questions. 1. Does the flashing light throw a code to what is wrong that is stored (i.e. low coolant or fan fault)? If so how long is the code stored? 2. On the coolant expansion tank there
  11. Zymol is a fine carnauba wax, if somewhat expensive, however, the durability of it is limited (like most carnauba based products). You will need to reapply often if your car is subject to the elements on a regular basis. If the car is garage queen and only driven occasionally then the protection issue is not as important (and the carnaubas last much longer). If the car is a daily driver you may want to consider something with more durability and protection like a synthetic wax or a sealant. These products are much more durable, especially if you live an climate where the car will be subjec
  12. MarkC, What is too harsh for every day driving is all subjective. That said IMHO, there is a huge difference, between the ride of 17" and 18" wheels. Of course tire construction also has an effect. My Blizzak LM-25's on 17" rims rides so much more smoothly and is less harsh than the Conti's on 18" rims. Personally the 18" don't bother me but I will admit that the 17" offered a very nice ride.
  13. There is definitely a market. The question is will it support the amount you want out of them. For a price comparison, you can get the factory sport designs used in good condition from Wheel enhancement for about $1900 and new with new rubber for about $2800. Now the question is what does the powdercoating do to the price, if anything, and by how much.
  14. JoeA, I am a former 96 993 owner. In general the cars are very reliable. Be aware of the potential problems with the CEL (check engine light) caused by blockage of the secondary air injection system (used for emission on cold start up. It is becoming a rather common headache for the 993. It does not effect performance but can cause you to fail emissions test in some states. I never had the problem with my car. The cost to fix varies on how you decide to go about it, from unbelievable to reasonable. Do a search on the 993 board at Rennlist for more information than you want to know abo
  15. If the wheel bearing checks out fine, then the whine could be from the tires as they wear. Certain tires produce much more noise than other. Just a thought.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.