WARDHOG

Anyone have any idea about this problem, driving last night my interior light and courtesy lights came on all by themselves, this coincided with the switch on the dash for the door locks stopping working. The lights will not go off unless I remove the fuse, however this causes alarm and central locking to go off. As i was at work last night I removed the bulbs/holders from the courtesy lights and turned off interior light to stop the battery dying. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the problem and a possible fix.

The central locking still works on the key fob if this helps.

Any ideas appreciated.

The car is a 98 2.5 UK car (rhd)

Dan

I would have to guess that you have a defective door switch. That's one thing in common with all three because it's acting like one of the doors isn't closed.

Thanks again, Loren!

Is part number 996 504 893.00 correct for the left rear mud flap? Mine is torn and I would like to replace it and the numbers are scraped off some to make sure it's right.

TIA! :jump:

This is what they should look like.

So, that's normal. Thanks for the super fast response! :clapping:

Today I changed out the plugs and noted no "O" rings on all six coil packs. My car is a 2003 996 C4S. I hope that's normal or is it not because the coil packs have two flanges wide enough for an "O" ring to fit but none there. This also the first time the plugs have been changed on the car with 28917K miles on the speedo. Should I worry?

:unsure:

Thanks for the reply, Wardhog.

Yes... I have checked the relays for function... its not just the fuel pump that does not get power... its everything that comes off the DME for its power or signal to start. At first, I thought it was the DME Relay, but that was eliminated due to the power in Pin 26 or 27 (one goes through the relay, the other is a straight shot from fuse C1) of the DME connnector.

Well, that sucks. Any mods done to it? What about your alarm system? Any problems with that lately?

I like this cayenne but only colour no

second pics

I like this cayenne but only colour no

second pics

Can you say, "BOUDIN"? :wacko:

Boudin

A spicy sausage made from rice, pork, pork liver, onion, and seasonings. Has a course texture.

Ok... I think I have conclusively determined that my problem is my DME intermittantly failing, as some of you have speculated. it is covered under the 8/80 emmisions warrenty, and the car is going to Tallahassee on tuesday. However, I am nervous, because with the holidays, bank account is looking rough. If they determine its not the DME, I am screwed. Please review my determination, and let me know if i missed anything.

99 Box, 63K miles, Tip.

Symptoms: No start condition, CANBUS malfunction, no CEL test at ignition. INTERMITTANT problem.

- Cranks, but no fuel pump start, no CEL, ect.

My determination is that the DME is intermittantly failing, causing a CANBUS timeout when the car is in motion. If it fails to start after a successful, driving cycle, the CANBUS failure does not occur. The CANBUS failure occurs because the DME is sending power to the Unit, but then when it goes out, the TCU still has power but no signal for a second (all it takes is a faulure of a fraction of a second to cause the timeout).

The CEL gets signal and power from pin 8 of the DME. There are only two possible causes for a no CEL condition at accessory... a failure at the bulb or wiring, or no signal from the DME. Since the condtion is always coupled with a no-start (ie other failures of units getting their power form the dme), i know that the DME is not sending the signal to its periphials.

The DME gains power from the battery through fuse C1, through DME relay 1, to pins 26 and 27 of the harness. Power is constant on these pins, and has been verified w/ multimeter. No problem to this point.

The ignition non-constant power comes through B8, directly to pin 56 (terminal 15) when the ignition is on. This power is also making it to the DME. The grounds at GP 8 and 9 have been tested, and are working as required.

So essentially, the DME recieves all the power that it requires, but when the problem occurs, it does not send that power to the units that require it. The fuel pump relay, for example, does not recieve juice when the DME is down.

No codes except the P0600 can be read (DTC 100-101). This is because the DME is not on to record any faults. The P0600 (DTC 100-101) only shows when the car is on and running before and during the faulure, so the TCU has a moment to store the DTC.

Please let me know if anyone disagrees with my conclusion before I screw myself over in tallahassee...

How did you determine all of this? Sounds like you did some troubleshooting and are stuck for a resolution. You mention that the fuel pump relay may have no power. Have you confirmed that by checking at the socket and if you did, did you remove the relay to check for power to energize the relay? Are you checking at the fuel pump to confirm you have no power and that is why you think the relay is not getting power? I assume you know that there is two parts of the relay you must check to determine you have a bad relay. The first is the power to energize the coil and the other is the contacts afflicted in the circuit of concern. Of course, you could just slap in a known good relay and that would take the relay in question out of the picture. Last but least, have you let the dealer connect the car to the tester? That would only cost you the cost of labor, if that.

Both parking lights blew on my 2001 996C2 with litronics. Can't seem to find the H6W bulbs anywhere, autozone, etc.. Does the Porsche dealer stock? Does anyone know of an online place for H6W bulbs in the US.

Thanks,

Ross

My driver's side went out and I couldn't find those either. I opted for the 4watt bulb from Advanced Auto and changed both out with the 4watts. Looks good to me and I really can't notice the difference because I didn't leave the 6watt in to compare the brightness.

That happened to me awhile back and it left me stranded in the mountains of Arizona. Had my car towed to the dealer in Tucson and the technician found a bad coolant tank pressure cap. He also did a complete pressure check on the system and all was good. He also said the caps should be replaced about every two years to make sure it doesn't happen again. I think twenty dollars every two years is worth the peace of mind.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a type of grease to use on the trunk latches.

How about White Lithium Grease? The kind that comes in a can with a little red straw for hard to reach places. I use that on things like that because it stays put where you shoot it at and you can see it's still in place later on. Not as messy as WD-40 and such. There are several brands out there too.

I rented this car while in NY for use in a my best friend's wedding. 

From the time I sat in the car, it just fit me perfectly.  I was amazed by the handling and how I felt in the car.  I the 2 days I had the car, I felt like I had been with it for two years. 

Well, I was sad to give up the key when I left, and so started a search for one of my own.  And I think I may have found one that I will purchase by the end of the month.  :clapping:

But as with all vehicles, there is always those little things to watch for.  I haven't yet purchased the car and have the option to still back out if I find something really disturbing.

So in your 987 experience, if you were looking for something wrong, what would you look for?  What are some of the things to look for that indicate future or past problems?  Any opinions appreciated.  :cheers:

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Hi and welcome! :welcome:

So, you're in the market for a Boxster? Are you talking about the 986 or 987 Boxster? New or Used? One thing to watch on both and it will happen, is a leaking Rear Main Seal. It's more of a cosmetic problem than anything else if you have it fixed right away. If you don't and it continues to leak heavily, you'll burn you clutch up in a standard shift car. On the plus side of a RMS, Porsche has come up with a better seal and supposedly will stop the leak for good. If you do go to change it out, buy a new clutch disk and have it put in for a peace of mind knowing you have a new clutch.

On 2003 and newer, Porsche decide to go with a fiber optic Bose stereo set up. It sounds superior compared to older cars but, you can't add anything extra to it because there is no auxiliary input in the system. I have had two problems in both of my Porsches (2003 986-sold 2003 996C4S-present) with the stereos. They would come on and freeze up and not reset. I fixed the problem by taking it out and unkinking the fiber optic harness behind the stereo making sure it has somewhat of a straight shot to the connector on the radio. Haven't had on problem since then.

Other than those two problems, it's a really well built reliable car.

Porsche, there is no substitute! :thumbup:

This Boxster Workshop Manual CD recently sold on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=8005597190

The price was $185.

This manual is exactly the same as the one offered by workshopmanuals.co.uk for only $20.  The seller says it covers up to 2004, but in fact only covers 97-01.  Someone has been severely ripped off, and I feel sorry for them.  I don't want any of you guys to make the same mistake.  How do I know it's the same thing?  I fixed the index for workshopmanuals.

The quality of this CD isn't brilliant, but it is a good starting point for the DIYer, and at $20 you can't complain.  However, I recently got a 996 manual from "porschelibrarian" and it is in a different league, much better quality.

Be warned of the eBay rip-offs!

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Thanks for the heads up. :cheers: Do you have a link to"porschelibrarian" and what year does this manual cover that you purchased?

TIA!

My engine on my 97 boxster just blowen. At 48K milage this surely can not be right.

Was driving nicely on the highway (70 m/hr) and heard a big noise and cracking from the engine. I stopped and got it towed to a garage and they are now telling me that the engine is gone.

I expected more of a boxster engine. Anyone had the same problem?

I think Porsche should replace my engine. Any experience from others?

Help - I will be calling porsche tomorrow and talk to them - this can not be right :(

- Kanin

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That sucks! :( I wonder if it's part of the miss fire problem you were having? Did you make sure the spark plugs were in correctly and tight but not over torqued. I've seen waaaay over torqued plugs on engines that cracked the head and caused the the head to blow out. let us know what happened. Hope nothing too bad. :huh:

:welcome:

Welcome and anything is possible. What V6 are you talking about, by the way?

I went to a well know Porsche parts website and used their part selection index for my 2003 C4S. It showed that the Bosch FGR 6 KQE was the right one for my car and so I ordered and received them. Then I looked at this site's DYI for plug change and it says to use the FGR 5KQE0 plugs for MY 02- and that where the confusion sets in. I went back to the parts site and did another search for a MY 99- and it came up with the same plug number as the MY 02- car. So, do I have the wrong plugs for my 2003? :huh:

P.S. What is the gap for the right plug also if there is one for these four fingered things?

Hopefully it was just a fluke and won't ever happen a gain. Now, I have some numbers on my booklet. Don't know if this will help when you order one.

Here you go.

Z. Deckel: LL 996.610.191.05 RL 996.610.192.05

The fuse info you're looking for is not in the owner's manual but in the fuse box cover. Pull the cover off and a small booklet should be folded up and stowed on the back of the cover. If it isn't, the fuse you are looking for is D-1. It's A 30 Amp fuse and you'll need a flash light to see the letters and numbers. It's set up like the You Sunk My Battleship game board, somewhat. Good luck. :thumbup:

I came back from a trip to Tucson, AZ and lost all coolant due to a bad pressure cap popping off too early. I want to replace the new fluid that was put in Tucson with distilled water and Porsche A/Freeze to make sure I don't have any corrosion in the future. So, what is recommend for flushing out my MY 2003 C4S and what is the proper way of do this task? I know how to flush cooling systems on regular cars but, a Porsche isn't a regular car. :help:

TIA!

Looks like I'm a victim of the RMS curse and I want to know if it's needed to bleed the clutch after the change out to complete the job? I'm about to change out my brake fluid but was wondering if I should wait until after the seal change. :huh:

TIA!

I have found from owning two 2003 Porsches, if you pull the radio out and look at the connector to see if the O/F harness going to the radio is kinked, straighten out and reconnect. I just rerouted the harness so it was going to the radio straighter and zip tied it so and reconnected. Haven't had one problem since then. :thumbup:

Stumbled on this useful DIY project - link in another forum....

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto_porsche.php

There are quite a few good photos/instructions of an RMS being replaced from start to finish...

Good overview for a person who always asks - "What is a RMS?"   :D

BTW, I noted that he did not utilise the correct Porsche Tool to measure the crank clearance as well as not utilising the correct procedure for inserting the new seal...oh well.

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Kind of wasting his time. It will probably come back with more damage than what he had before. I'll take mine to the dealer, thank you. :unsure:

Have you tried to site sponsor at top?  Sunset is a great P-Car parts department.  usually the cheapest for Porsche stuff.

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Yeah, I shot them an email and I'm waiting on a response. Thanks.

Try hear:

http://www.autohausaz.com/

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Thanks!

Have you tried the folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost). Email JeffClark@sunsetimports.com and tell him I sent you.

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Thanks Loren!