Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

bjmkelly

Members
  • Posts

    1
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • From
    Phoenix
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 CTT
    2008 GL320 CDI
  • Future cars
    997
  • Former cars
    986, 987, 955, 958

bjmkelly's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Huge thanks all for this diagnostic aid. The big warning lamp 'Brake Booster Faulty' was ominous and expensive looking but with the help of this thread i fixed it easily and in a satisfying manner. I found the cracked tube where the spigot enters at the 'JB weld' in the second photo above. My first approach involved heavy duty metal tape, but the engine heat is intense there and the adhesive turned to mush in a few minutes. My second approach was even easier to execute. I removed the entire tube from the silver colored booster pump to the spigot - about eight inches in length but with a few fittings - and replaced it with a cut length of vacuum hose from O'Reilly car parts. I used a hose clamp (jubilee clip) at each end, and it all felt rather robust. Total cost was $1.49 for the length of hose plus a few cents for the clamps which were part of a big assortment box i already had (very useful to have around) The warning light extinguished itself after a minute or two, no programming required. Thanks especially Voodoocat and Topgun.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.