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tarh33l

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About tarh33l

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  • Present cars
    '00 986
  1. I'm about to do this DIY and want to make sure I'm not going to accidentally have the airbag light come on. I've read through this entire thread about 5 times and I have to admit, I'm still confused about what should happen with the key when doing this. Can someone confirm if these steps are correct? Disconnect negative on battery. Let sit for 30 mins Insert key into ignition and turn to "on" position Move steering wheel to appropriate location(s) in order to remove torx bolts Remove bolts Turn key to "off" position, but leave in ignition (I think this is where I'm most confused) Perform fix Turn key to "on" position Move wheel into position to put torx bolts back on Put bolts on Remove key from ignition Re-connect negative on battery I feel like I'm over-complicating this, so any advice would be appreciated. One of the responses in the thread makes it look like the key only needs to be inserted and never turned on, but I'm not sure how the steering wheel can be moved in that case. Thanks! - Terence
  2. Terence: My approach would be to get yet another Audi switch, since it's only about $10 and since you already have DIY experience in replacing it. That would eliminate the electrical portion of the switch as the culprit if it doesn't work, and then you can diagnose it further. As you know, the replacement of the entire assembly is much more expensive and a more involved DIY, so go for the easy one first. Regards, Maurice. Thank Maurice. Do the symptoms I'm describing sound like an issue with the switch or the overall assembly? I think my first option may be to just re-seat the new switch and see if that makes a difference first. Too bad it's so tight in there (and I'm a little guy!)...
  3. Hey everyone, So the ignition switch went flaky on my 2000 986 (after taking key out, I wouldn't hear the distinct "click" - key was then difficult to get back into ignition, etc.). This is the second time this has happened to me in 11+ years of ownership. The first time, I simply bought the Audi switch, pulled out the old one, popped in the new one (with a little yoga in between) and it worked like a charm. Now, after a somewhat frustrating experience getting the second replacement in, I'm not getting the engine to turn over. I can put the key in (although it takes some fidgeting for it to slide in), turn the ignition on (all status lights turn on), but not actually start the car. When I put the key in the start position, I get nothing. At this point, I really don't know where to go. Is there a chance the ignition switch didn't get seated properly (I had a little trouble getting it all the way in) or is this likely an issue with the entire ignition component? I've seen the DIY on replacing the entire thing, but this is not something I really want to do unless absolutely necessary. Any advice would be appreciated. - Terence
  4. I've had the issue for over a year now on my '00 986 (which blows since it prevents my car from passing emissions, and therefore getting my tags :( ). Anyway, I've concluded that this is a short in the wiring to the O2 sensor, not the sensor itself (at least in my case). I swapped the bank 1 sensor with the bank 2 sensor and no dice. Interestingly, my car sat in the garage most of the winter (this was the first time it had sat so long). As soon as I pulled it out in the spring and went on a test drive, the light was out (and I went directly to the emissions place ;) ). Unfortunately, it came back on a few hundred miles later. - Terence PS - if you search for P1119 on the board, you'll see a number of posts from me several months ago when I was diagnosing. These may help
  5. All, -- Giving context here, skip down if you just want the part # request -- Today as I was detailing my baby, I noticed that the passenger side of the rear spoiler was somewhat loose. I had some body work done on it about 7 months ago, and only now noticed that the shop had failed to completely secure that side of the spoiler. So, I decided to take the spoiler cover off and fasten the bolt. Well, being the dumba** that I am, I didn't realize the bolt had been cross threaded (presumably by the shop, which is probably why they never completely tightened it), and I exerted too much pressure. After a loud pop, I realized what had happened. The bolt going into the lift piston snapped off clean, leaving about two threads exposed (not enough to unscrew with a wrench). Well, I attempted to remove the bolt with a screw extractor. Unfortunately, that snapped off clean within the bolt. Now I realize I'm screwed (no pun intended) and I need to get a new lift piston. -- So, here's what I'm looking for -- Spoiler Lift Piston for: - 2000 986 (Boxster) - 5 speed - US I looked through the archives and found nothing, which doesn't surprise me given that this part is probably never going to go bad. If anyone knows the cost of the part, that would also be great. Thanks... - Terence
  6. Actually, Loren (or anyone else for that matter), do you have any pics of the connectors you're referring to in this post (I've got the Bentley manual at home, so if they're in there let me know and I can dig them up myself)? I really don't want to get this wrong. Also, I'm assuming when you use tool 9616, you're only concerned about shorting out the DME when you're applying voltage (do I need to worry about this when I'm checking resistance only?). Terence
  7. Wow Loren! Thanks for the great information. Looks like I'll be busy over the weekend. I will be sure to post my results for the group. Terence
  8. I guess this is where I need the most help. I wouldn't think it's the sensor since I've already swapped with the bank 1 pre-cat sensor, and am still getting the same code. Is there an easy way I can test if it's the connector? I've checked for resistance on both the connector and the plug, and I believe I'm getting the correct readings. If it's the wiring, is there an easy test (and, do I need to test anything in the DME like a relay or something)? Also, it appears that replacing this wiring would be quite complex. If it's not a DIY, I'll be more than happy to take it to the dealer. Thanks for the help Loren. I appreciate your patience.
  9. Sorry, I should have made that more clear. I get the pending code until I restart the car. After about 3 miles or so, the CEL does indeed come on. Thanks... Terence
  10. I've cleared the code about 4 times (once by disconnecting the battery for about 20 mins), the others by using the clear function on my OBD reader. Is there some other way I should be doing this? One thing I did note is that I get a pending P1119 immediately after clearing, pulling the key from ignition, and restarting. In the past (when I was getting P0150 and such), I wasn't getting P1119 as pending until those were pending as well (which often took some driving time).
  11. For the last few months, I've been tracking down some gremlins in my '00 986. My check engine light has been on for a very long time. While still under warranty, I had it fixed again and again, each time the dealer telling me it was a faulty O2 sensor (and each time, the light would inevitably go back on, eventually tiring me of this to the point where I stopped going back to the dealer). Now that I'm out of warranty and I need to pass my emissions test, I've been trying to resolve this issue myself. I'm at the point where I really need some expert opinion. I'd really rather not go to the dealer, especially considering that I think I've gotten pretty far on tracking this down. Here's a brief history: - In May, I broke down and bought an Actron 9135. Codes read: P1128 and P1130 - After weeks of clearing codes and driving, nothing was getting better - Eventually, I started getting P1119, P0150, and P1133 - After looking on PPBB and renntech.org, I solved P1128 and P1130 by tightening a number of loose intake valves - On to P1119 et al - To ensure that this wasn't a faulty bank 2, pre cat sensor, I swapped the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors. No dice, still got P0150 - Finally got off my butt and bought a multi-meter. Tracked down a short which seemingly was causing P0150 and P0133 - Now, I only get P1119 (before, I was getting P1119 and P0150 fairly quickly after clearing codes, so at this point, I'm convinced P0150 is solved) - I tested resistance on two pins (don't know which ones, but read that I should do this on PPBB) on the bank 2 pre cat sensor, and got a reading of 6ohms (warm). I thought I would get a reading of 0 ohms, and realize that the heating circuit was bad Anyway, I'm about at the point where I'm thinking of taking it in (although I really don't want to). I'm not exactly sure where I go from there. P1119 is supposedly a heating issue in the pre-cat O2 sensor (and I don't even understand the sensor heating concept). However, there are about 5 different reasons listed in the Bentley manual as to why this code would be thrown. I've looked around and have found almost no references to P1119. Someone on PPBB suggested that I check the heater circuit relay (which I would assume is in the DME). If this were the case, wouldn't I be getting a "P" code for bank 1? If not, how would I go about testing this relay? That's about it. Any help would really be appreciated. Please keep in mind, I am not overly comfortable testing electronics on my car (I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff). So, if you have any suggestions about electrical testing, can you dumb it down for me? Thanks for any help. Terence
  12. I will try to make this as concise as possible. I've been struggling with P1128 and P1130 for the last few months ('00 986 - only owner). Unfortunately, I'm now delinquent on my tags because my car won't pass emissions. I have researched 1128 and 1130, and have tried everything from new oil filler cap, gas cap, etc. Last week, I bought the oil fill tube (as mentioned in TSB 1715) but haven't had a chance to replace it. For the last few weeks, I've been clearing these codes with my Actron 9135, hoping that my "I/M Monitors" will magically turn to "Ready" and I can go get my inspection done. Well, now it appears that this situation has gotten worse. This week, I started getting P1119 (for which I can find almost no information) and P0150. I figured these were simply artifacts from the 1128 and 1130 codes (or because I kept clearing them). Initially, it didn't really bother me - I figured I'd replace the oil filler tube and my issues would go away. Well, today, I noticed some concerning idling out of my car. As I'm coming to a stop, depressing the clutch drops the RPMs to about 600. At that point, the car begins to vibrate as if it's going to stall. The RPMs don't appear to drop below 600, but as soon as they go above, say, 800, the car idles smoothly. It's at the point now that it will take a while to correct itself, only to start idling poorly within a few minutes (at speed, it appears that there's a slight "lunging" as I accelerate). Anyway, I'm really not sure what my next steps should be. I will look at the oil fill tube this weekend, but I'm not convinced that this is all of a sudden related to my poor idling. I cleaned the MAF about 4 weeks ago, and my CEL problem was not resolved. However, I will clean it again to see if the idling issue clears up. Beyond that, I'm clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, perhaps related, I'm not sure - I had condensation above my coolant tank in the trunk. To fix this, I removed the bleeder valve and replaced the o-rings within. I did this Tuesday, but didn't have the idling problem until today. Terence (tarh33l)
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