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Posts posted by spooltime

  1. Thanks, Loren.  It looks like there's not much of a  difference in price between a clone PIWIS III and the MS906BT.  How much functionality would one forego by not going with the PIWIS III clone?  Or alternatively, since it's specific to Porsche (and I have two to tinker on) probably more fully compatible.  If the Autel unit will do most of the what the PIWIS will do, plus having the advantage of working on other vehicle marques, it might make more sense to buy.  I'm certain either will do far more than I'd ever use them for, but I do like tools to work with.

  2. I was planning to do an oil service reset on my 2018 Macan using my Durametric Pro, only to discover MY 2018 Macans are NOT supported by the current Durametric software.  I'd appreciate a recommendation for a scan tool that can do all of the basic service functions - oil and service interval resets,brake release, battery replacement, etc.  Both Autel and X431 offer so many different models, it's almost impossible to determine which model to buy and know it will do the necessary procedures.  Anyone have a recommendation for a verified, specific unit?

  3. jpflip - In my case the culprit was cable #28 on the parts diagram, which runs from the alternator to the starter.  But for good measure and to avoid future concerns, I also replaced #36, which is the engine ground strap, and because my car is blessed with a Tip / paddle shifter set-up, #24, which crosses over the transmission on Tip models.  Cables #17 (MT) and #19 (TIP) are the long cables that run up to the distribution box below the battery in front.  I didn't bother to replace this one (but have a new one on the shelf just just in case) because I didn't find a significant voltage drop on it from rear to front. 

  4. This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem.  Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue.  As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance.  It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't.  Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.

    • Upvote 1
  5. 21 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:


    You could start with a leak down test to check the sealing condition of the rings.  You could also take a peek at the turbo to see if it has oil inside of it on the intake side.

    Wouldn't I be seeing exhaust smoke (i.e., burning oil) if the rings are going? 


    Not sure how to peek at the intake side of the turbo.  Would this be looking in opening where the exhaust manifold mounts to the turbo unit?  Or somewhere else?


    And if it gets to the point where a rebuild or replacement is necessary,  who are the preferred specialists for performing a rebuild?  Or am I just better off buying a reman unit and going with that?  It's a stock K24 unit.

  6. While recently changing my spark plugs, I discovered about 1/4 cup of oil collected in the lower driver's side boost (pressure) hose that attaches to the intercooler. Didn't necessarily appear to be fresh, but not sure.  I change my own oil, so I know with certainty that the engine has never been overfilled, at least during my ownership.


    Are there any diagnostic procedures I can do identify the possible culprit?

  7. Really depends on your planned usage (e.g., track, weekend fun, daily driver, etc.), but IMO, make sure it's up to snuff in stock form (i.e., maybe fresh coils and plugs, etc.), and then start with a software tune of the ECU.  If you don't mind exhaust drone, many owners do an exhaust next.  After that, the possibilities are pretty much limitless (or limited by how much you want to spend).  You'll love it!

  8. Thanks for the response.  When you say "run a voltage drop test across both primary cables", can you please be more specific (auto electric beginner here)?  Do you mean the cable from the alternator  to the starter, and the cable from the junction on the transmission up to the power distribution box?  If so, I need it spelled out for me.  Which terminals on the alternator cable should be used to test the voltage drop (alternator to starter, battery positive in engine compartment to starter, starter to junction on transmission, or alternator to junction on transmission - there's three primary connections on this cable and I want to make sure I use the right ones)?  And same question for the other primary cable? 


    And just to confirm, since both the battery and alternator are new within the past 30 days (alt is a Bosch reman), you would still load test both?  Thanks.


    And finally, do you think there is an issue with the voltages I've reported, or is my car "operating as designed"?

  9. My car's two year old battery failed about a month ago, and I've been chasing electrical system issues ever since.  The 996 Essential Companion book says you should see 13.8V across the battery terminals with the engine running.  I was seeing low 13Vs or high 12Vs, so I started the search for the missing volts.  Obviously, the battery was replaced with a new AGM battery with the correct Ah rating.  Next step was to replace the voltage regulator.  No significant increase in system voltage at the battery.  So next, I installed a remanufactured Bosch alternator.  This seemed to help.  Upon start-up, I would see about 13.5V across the battery.  But after the engine has run awhile and really heats up, the voltage drops down to about 12.7V (the picture of the voltage reading is at idle after about 45 minutes, engine at idle with the A/C running).


    So not sure what to do next, I took the car to the dealer for diagnosis.  They claim everything is normal (see attached excerpt from service receipt). 


    I've read I should check various connections to look for corrosion.  So yesterday, I dropped the rear engine tray and checked the engine ground strap - looks good, and opened up the box where the alternator/starter cable drops down to the connection mounted.  Again, no corrosion, but did notice a good kink in the cable (not sure if that matters).  The only thing I've read is that sometimes the alternator/starter cable gets over-baked near the starter and that causes voltage issue - supposedly an issue on the 997's; don't know about the 996's.  My concern is that I don't think the battery is getting properly charged while the car is running.  I've had a Innova voltage gauge in while the car is running, and the voltage is always .6V - 1.0V below what the gauge shows when I use it in my MB SUV.


    So my question is whether or not my car's running voltage is "operating as designed" as the dealer claims, or whether further voltage tracing is warranted?  I'm very curious as to what voltage others are seeing across the battery with the engine running?


    All help and suggestions appreciated.

    connection at transmission.jpg

    ground strap no corrosion.jpg

    service report.jpg

    voltage across battery at idle.jpg

  10. On 9/22/2017 at 5:32 PM, Folz said:

    Does anyone know if 02 x50 exhaust is the same part as 04 x50 exhaust?

    There have been some part number supersecessions, but all the X50 and GT2 models share the same muffler.


    It's difficult to find used factory X50/GT2 mufflers, and there are many sellers out there misrepresenting what they are selling.


    The factory part number on the turbo mufflers (both base model and X50/GT2) is stamped on the bottom side of the muffler case on the passenger side of the muffler.  Many sellers mistakenly identify the muffler part number by claiming one of the numbers from one of the heat shields is the muffler part number.  This is not the case.  The base turbo muffler will always have "027" as the seventh, eighth, and ninth digits of the 11 digit part number (e.g., 996 111 027 75), while the X50/GT2 factory muffler will have "987" instead of "027" as the corresponding digits (e.g., 996 111 987 76).  The X50/GT2 muffler has modified internal baffling for better flow to accommodate the higher performance of the X50/GT2 models.

  11. I'm assembling my freshly repainted front bumper cover.  I ordered the protective films shown in the parts catalog that are associated with the front bumper cover (#18 and #22 in the parts diagram) and easily figured out where #18 goes.  I can't figure out where the two #22s go - on the cover itself, or somewhere on the body?  I've attached a picture of the actual part and for reference the parts diagram showing it orientation.  Any help appreciated!

    fender 3.JPG

    protective film.JPG

  12. My spark plugs are due for a replacement, so it might seem like a good time to throw in a fresh set of coils in order to avoid potential duplication of labor down the road.  My engine presently has no coil-related DTCs, and currently has the "20" version of coils in it.  In perusing the Porsche parts catalog, I note the coils for the 955 Turbo Cayennes have been updated twice since my prior coil replacement, and are now number 948 602 104 22, with "21" coils being offered for a period of time.  The equivalent Beru (OEM supplier of the Porsche packaged coils) coil part number is ZSE 012, but Beru's part number cross-reference only goes up to the "20" coil, which I already have.  That makes me think I would be better served going with the Porsche-boxed coil since it might be an improved version over the "20" version or corresponding Beru ZSE012.


    So my question is really whether the Porsche part number update really means that the part is updated or not.  I've always understood it does, but I'm open to education on this topic since the price for the Porsche coils exceeds the price for the Berus by a not insignificant amount per coil.


    Anyone know if it's really worth getting the most updated Porsche part number or not?  Or if the "if ain't broke, don't fix it" rule also applies for coils.  I must say that when I replaced my "09" coils with the "20s", I haven't had a coil related issue since.

  13. On 9/4/2016 at 1:00 PM, wross996TT said:

    Sorry, you are mistaken for the X50 it is purely cosmetic.


    This is a stupid debate, but having just personally installed an aftermarket exhaust on my X50, factory fitted with X54 tips, I know exactly how the optional stainless steel quad tailpipes are designed since I was just working with them.  And one side is not closed off.  The tip connects to the muffler as a single pipe, and then splits into the two sides of the tip, both of which flow exhaust gas.  So they're differently cosmetically from the base singles tips, but exhaust gas does come out both sides of the X54 tip.  They do say the X54 tips are worth an extra 6.3HP . . . just kidding.   If I get motivated, I'll post a picture of a real X54 exhaust tip.  

  14. This is why I'll add the GT2 dipstick option if my car's engine ever needs to come out to have the water pipe fittings welded.  I dislike the electronic engine oil level and hate to say I don't trust it, either.   But as others above have stated, underfill slightly when doing the oil and filter, and then gradually top it up until the indicator shows it's at the correct level.+

  15. In the past few weeks I've started noticing a strong smell of gasoline outside of the vehicle near the driver's side rear quarter.  I'm not smelling gas in the vehicle . . . yet.  I seem to recall reading at some point that the fuel pumps may develop leaks of the top sealing gasket.  I know neither of my pumps have ever been replaced during the first 120K miles, so I'm suspecting this may be the culprit, but I am wondering if there is anything else I should check out before taking in it for service.  I haven't seen any fuel on the ground or anything, and I don't think I've ever heard of the fuel tank itself developing a leak.  Replacing the pump myself is out; it's a job I'd prefer to have an experienced professional do.  Most likely a fuel pump?

  16. On 6/19/2015 at 2:18 PM, Dus10R said:

    They just look like a two in one. One side is actually painted black and is non functioning. But yes they havent different tips.



    This is incorrect as far as genuine factory tips are concerned.  The tubing is split at the rear and exhaust gasses exit through both sides.  Aftermarket quad tips may have one side sealed off, but the factory ones don't.

  17. Before buying a plane ticket and committing to an expensive PPI, I had the seller send me some pictures of the undercarriage.  Seller says no drips whatsoever on garage floor, but I have concerns about the oil at the bottom of each turbo unit (by the drain plugs - first picture) and the seepage around the Tiptronic oil pan (third picture).  Any insights, opinions and thoughts regarding the overall condition of the undercarriage and the issues mentioned will be greatly appreciated.









    Run from this, or check it out further?


  18. I hate being the bearer of bad news, but to remove the driver side trim panel covering the 4-zone rear zone AC unit, you essentially have to remove the entire rear compartment lining as well as the rear seats.  I had to replace my PDC control unit after it failed, and it is located at the bottom left of the rear AC unit.  Replacing it was easy; it was removing all of the trim and the seats that was the PITA.  Here's a link with some pictures when I did the repair.  Looks like I didn't write down all of the steps to get the trim out. http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/785774-park-assist-control-module-replacement.html

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