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About spooltime

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  • From
    Atlanta, Georgia USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 911 Turbo

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  1. Thanks, Loren. It looks like there's not much of a difference in price between a clone PIWIS III and the MS906BT. How much functionality would one forego by not going with the PIWIS III clone? Or alternatively, since it's specific to Porsche (and I have two to tinker on) probably more fully compatible. If the Autel unit will do most of the what the PIWIS will do, plus having the advantage of working on other vehicle marques, it might make more sense to buy. I'm certain either will do far more than I'd ever use them for, but I do like tools to work with.
  2. I was planning to do an oil service reset on my 2018 Macan using my Durametric Pro, only to discover MY 2018 Macans are NOT supported by the current Durametric software. I'd appreciate a recommendation for a scan tool that can do all of the basic service functions - oil and service interval resets,brake release, battery replacement, etc. Both Autel and X431 offer so many different models, it's almost impossible to determine which model to buy and know it will do the necessary procedures. Anyone have a recommendation for a verified, specific unit?
  3. jpflip - In my case the culprit was cable #28 on the parts diagram, which runs from the alternator to the starter. But for good measure and to avoid future concerns, I also replaced #36, which is the engine ground strap, and because my car is blessed with a Tip / paddle shifter set-up, #24, which crosses over the transmission on Tip models. Cables #17 (MT) and #19 (TIP) are the long cables that run up to the distribution box below the battery in front. I didn't bother to replace this one (but have a new one on the shelf just just in case) because I didn't find a significant voltage drop on it from rear to front.
  4. This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem. Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue. As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance. It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't. Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.
  5. Just to clarify, you mean either the exhaust inlet or the exhaust outlet?
  6. Wouldn't I be seeing exhaust smoke (i.e., burning oil) if the rings are going? Not sure how to peek at the intake side of the turbo. Would this be looking in opening where the exhaust manifold mounts to the turbo unit? Or somewhere else? And if it gets to the point where a rebuild or replacement is necessary, who are the preferred specialists for performing a rebuild? Or am I just better off buying a reman unit and going with that? It's a stock K24 unit.
  7. While recently changing my spark plugs, I discovered about 1/4 cup of oil collected in the lower driver's side boost (pressure) hose that attaches to the intercooler. Didn't necessarily appear to be fresh, but not sure. I change my own oil, so I know with certainty that the engine has never been overfilled, at least during my ownership. Are there any diagnostic procedures I can do identify the possible culprit?
  8. Really depends on your planned usage (e.g., track, weekend fun, daily driver, etc.), but IMO, make sure it's up to snuff in stock form (i.e., maybe fresh coils and plugs, etc.), and then start with a software tune of the ECU. If you don't mind exhaust drone, many owners do an exhaust next. After that, the possibilities are pretty much limitless (or limited by how much you want to spend). You'll love it!
  9. Thanks for the response. When you say "run a voltage drop test across both primary cables", can you please be more specific (auto electric beginner here)? Do you mean the cable from the alternator to the starter, and the cable from the junction on the transmission up to the power distribution box? If so, I need it spelled out for me. Which terminals on the alternator cable should be used to test the voltage drop (alternator to starter, battery positive in engine compartment to starter, starter to junction on transmission, or alternator to junction on transmission - there's three primary connections on this cable and I want to make sure I use the right ones)? And same question for the other primary cable? And just to confirm, since both the battery and alternator are new within the past 30 days (alt is a Bosch reman), you would still load test both? Thanks. And finally, do you think there is an issue with the voltages I've reported, or is my car "operating as designed"?
  10. My car's two year old battery failed about a month ago, and I've been chasing electrical system issues ever since. The 996 Essential Companion book says you should see 13.8V across the battery terminals with the engine running. I was seeing low 13Vs or high 12Vs, so I started the search for the missing volts. Obviously, the battery was replaced with a new AGM battery with the correct Ah rating. Next step was to replace the voltage regulator. No significant increase in system voltage at the battery. So next, I installed a remanufactured Bosch alternator. This seemed to help. Upon start-up, I would see about 13.5V across the battery. But after the engine has run awhile and really heats up, the voltage drops down to about 12.7V (the picture of the voltage reading is at idle after about 45 minutes, engine at idle with the A/C running). So not sure what to do next, I took the car to the dealer for diagnosis. They claim everything is normal (see attached excerpt from service receipt). I've read I should check various connections to look for corrosion. So yesterday, I dropped the rear engine tray and checked the engine ground strap - looks good, and opened up the box where the alternator/starter cable drops down to the connection mounted. Again, no corrosion, but did notice a good kink in the cable (not sure if that matters). The only thing I've read is that sometimes the alternator/starter cable gets over-baked near the starter and that causes voltage issue - supposedly an issue on the 997's; don't know about the 996's. My concern is that I don't think the battery is getting properly charged while the car is running. I've had a Innova voltage gauge in while the car is running, and the voltage is always .6V - 1.0V below what the gauge shows when I use it in my MB SUV. So my question is whether or not my car's running voltage is "operating as designed" as the dealer claims, or whether further voltage tracing is warranted? I'm very curious as to what voltage others are seeing across the battery with the engine running? All help and suggestions appreciated.
  11. There have been some part number supersecessions, but all the X50 and GT2 models share the same muffler. It's difficult to find used factory X50/GT2 mufflers, and there are many sellers out there misrepresenting what they are selling. The factory part number on the turbo mufflers (both base model and X50/GT2) is stamped on the bottom side of the muffler case on the passenger side of the muffler. Many sellers mistakenly identify the muffler part number by claiming one of the numbers from one of the heat shields is the muffler part number. This is not the case. The base turbo muffler will always have "027" as the seventh, eighth, and ninth digits of the 11 digit part number (e.g., 996 111 027 75), while the X50/GT2 factory muffler will have "987" instead of "027" as the corresponding digits (e.g., 996 111 987 76). The X50/GT2 muffler has modified internal baffling for better flow to accommodate the higher performance of the X50/GT2 models.
  12. Porsche NA is belatedly recalling 2003 - 2006 Cayennes to repair fuel pump flanges that cracked and started leaking. The press release is attached, but I didn't see anything on the NHTSA website yet other than a complaint about the problem. Porsche_Cars_North_America_Statement_Regarding_Cayenne_Recall.pdf
  13. I'm assembling my freshly repainted front bumper cover. I ordered the protective films shown in the parts catalog that are associated with the front bumper cover (#18 and #22 in the parts diagram) and easily figured out where #18 goes. I can't figure out where the two #22s go - on the cover itself, or somewhere on the body? I've attached a picture of the actual part and for reference the parts diagram showing it orientation. Any help appreciated!
  14. My spark plugs are due for a replacement, so it might seem like a good time to throw in a fresh set of coils in order to avoid potential duplication of labor down the road. My engine presently has no coil-related DTCs, and currently has the "20" version of coils in it. In perusing the Porsche parts catalog, I note the coils for the 955 Turbo Cayennes have been updated twice since my prior coil replacement, and are now number 948 602 104 22, with "21" coils being offered for a period of time. The equivalent Beru (OEM supplier of the Porsche packaged coils) coil part number is ZSE 012, but Beru's part number cross-reference only goes up to the "20" coil, which I already have. That makes me think I would be better served going with the Porsche-boxed coil since it might be an improved version over the "20" version or corresponding Beru ZSE012. So my question is really whether the Porsche part number update really means that the part is updated or not. I've always understood it does, but I'm open to education on this topic since the price for the Porsche coils exceeds the price for the Berus by a not insignificant amount per coil. Anyone know if it's really worth getting the most updated Porsche part number or not? Or if the "if ain't broke, don't fix it" rule also applies for coils. I must say that when I replaced my "09" coils with the "20s", I haven't had a coil related issue since.
  15. To close out my experience, I ended up having both fuel pumps replaced and everything is perfect again. I'd say for anyone experiencing a strong fuel smell outside the vehicle near either rear quarter panel, plan on it being fuel pump related.
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