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Skootnasty

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About Skootnasty

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  • From
    Cary, NC
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1987 924S
    1999 Boxster Base
  1. The best way to test this, is to disconnect the cable from the shifter and see if the resistance is completely gone. This is not that easy as it will involve some extensive interior removal to access the connection at shifter. Disconnecting the cable from the trans will not give you any useful data, unless the TIP itself is binding (unlikely). Skoot
  2. Well the obvious...... If this side has failed, might as well take the other side apart and have everything checked. With heads off, take the opportunity to get good looks at the cylinder walls, maybe even take some bore measurements at top of piston travel compared against measurement from as far down as possible with piston still in bore. Might as well start thinking about chains, tensioners, sprockets, and guides. Plugs, wires, caps, and rotors are a definite while we are in there items. Down time is completely dependent on specific shop/technician. This is just a start off the top of my head at 6:30 am Skoot
  3. The flywheel "out of round" causes P0300 because it causes the crankshaft to vibrate. The crankshaft position sensor sends the pulse data to the DME which sees abnormal input from the sensor. It's only recourse is to flag misfire DTC for the slow then fast pulse information from the crankshaft sensor. If there wa not a P0302 attached, I would be more inclined to buy into the plausability of the diagnosis. I would alo ask what test they did to eliminate ignition, fuel, and internal mechanical systems before recommending the flywheel. But to be clear, Yes the flywheel can and will cause P0300. It, however, may not be your actual issue. Skoot
  4. Those are all relating to a mechanical slip. If you can feel the slip, then cross your fingers a Porsche shop can bring it back with simple service. If you can't feel the slip, then a possible Piwis update will take care of it (longshot). Likely though Tip is on its way out. Skoot
  5. For the moisture barrier membrane, this is what we use to replace the black adhesive product that manufacturers use. It works great, just make sure that the door and foam surfaces have no dirt on them when you stick back together. http://www.tooltopia.com/3m-automotive-8578.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=MMM8578&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CJ36r_eI3rYCFcJw4AodjkkAbg Skoot
  6. The o-ring for that bank's scavenge pump is likely starting to harden, which will allow oil to escape past it. May not require anything more than a new o-ring. Skoot
  7. You need to find out where the hydr. leak is. If the leak is substantial enough, and has once again become too low to allow the cylinders to operate normally, then you must address this issue first. It is unlikely that the Evap code diagnosis performed by the dealer has anything to do with your loss of hydr. fluid. You should be able to find the leak yourself, it will just involve some looking for the wet component. Take some pictures of what you find and post back. I am sure members will be able to walk you through testing/removal/ Skoot
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