Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Hi All, I've got an issue with the roof not going down fully, so the clamshell sits approx 1" high in normal operation. If you stop it 3/4 of the way down, and push down on the roof frame the continue putting the roof down it will pull down with the clamshell flush. All of the pushrods etc are adjusted up as per specs, and everything appears to be straight and unbent, but it appears that the roof isn't pulling down properly. While checking the tensioning bands within the roof, the ones that are attached to the B pillars are both disconnected: However, I can't figure out where they were attached to within the hood. Does anyone have any pointers? Or other things to check that would prevent the top from tensioning down fully? Are there any front to back tensioning elastics that pull the top down tight when it's down? Thanks! Jon
Slight update, now it's had a chance to settle down.. Richard very very kindly let me plug it into the Durametric box, which showed no faults at all... After much head scratching we figured out the only thing it could be would be something on the fuel system side, so I replaced the pump, and touch wood, it's been fine ever since. I'm not sure if the old pump was 'weak' in some way - but sometimes although it was running it wasn't generating enough pressure to run the engine. Hence when the recovery guy checked the fuel pressure, and I checked the pump was pumping into a container, it released the pressure in the fuel system, and would start again the next time it was back together.
Things are pointing to the fuel pump being faulty - from speaking to my other half, the recovery guy checked something in the engine bay (fuel rail pressure I think) and suggested it was out of fuel (so I guess no/low fuel pressure) - at the time the low fuel warning light was on, however the trip computer said 30ish miles remaining. He added some fuel, then it started and ran. After refitting the access hatch, putting the interior back in etc it started again, so they thought it was fixed. The paperwork was filled in, tried to restart it again and it wouldn't go - at this point it was trailered home. So it looks like when it's not starting there's no fuel pressure.. Richard - we are actually pretty local - we live in Oxford, but I work in Marlow. If possible it would be great to plug it in and see what shows up...
I'm pretty sure the recovery guy put a gauge on the fuel rail when my OH was recovered a week back - although I wasn't there to confirm... I'll see if I can borrow a gauge and check myself... One of the next steps is to take it to the local recommended indy and ask them nicely to plug it into the 'proper' systems rather than a generic code reader...
I couldn't see any codes stored via my OBD-II reader when I tried before - I'll check again later on. I've not put a pressure gauge on the system (I don't have a mechanical one) - can you read the pressure via diagnostics?
Did some more testing today.. Took the battery out, and the fuel pump cover. Bridging the fuel pump relay causes the pump to run as soon as the battery is connected (seems to be different to a 986 which only runs when the ignition is on? Apparently the cayman also runs the fuel pump all the time when bridged too). You can hear the pump running (faintly). With the pump bridged, it still cranks but doesn't start. Pulled the fuel feed pipe from the pump, it was full of fuel. Fuel return appeared to be dry though. Put a pipe from the feed to a petrol container, fired the pump up and got a healthy flow of petrol into the container. Put it all back together, refitted the fuel pump relay, refitted the battery, turned the key and it fired up and ran perfectly... Stopped it and started it another 5 or so times with no issues.. Really not sure what to check next - unless removing the battery has reset something in the DME / immobiliser? Which I really don't want to be the case as it's going to get expensive to get that fixed :(
Yep - I managed to get access to the relay panel, which is different to the layout shown on Pelican Parts (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump.htm). I'll add some details as it might help someone figure it out in the future! On ours it's above the drivers side fuse panel, but 'upside down' with a cover on the bottom: You can unclip the wiring cover underneath, then towards the wing of the car you can lift and unclip the relay board, and it will just about twist upwards and drop down through the gap. There's no way you could change the relays in situ.. The parts supplier sent me a screengrab of the Porsche parts system for our car - S11 is listed as the DME relay, S8 is the fuel pump relay. I've put a new DME relay in, and swapped the fuel pump relay for the one next to it (mini relays, not the full size) and it still won't start... At least now the problem isn't intermittent, so hopefully it'll make diagnosis easier!
Back to square one... Got it all back together, car fired up, idled fine. Put the cover back on, carpets etc, fired it up again, it ran for a second then died. It just turns over now, tacho readout shows it turning over so I guess that rules out the new crank sensor? No fuel smell when it's turning over...
There's plenty of plastic around the metal core... Have sanded the new sensor down a bit and it is now fitted. Just need to connect it up and hope it still works (and fixes the intermittent starting issue!)
I truly, truly hate this car sometimes. Took everyone's advice and bought a new crank sensor. Through a combination of gymnastics through the top access hatch and underneath, I got it unplugged and got the torx bolt out. Crank sensor was stuck fast though. After approx 3 hours of persuasion with screwdrivers, wiggling it back and forth I finally get the old on out (well, the remains of it!). It was in there very, very tightly. Offer up the new one, and it won't fit in the hole - it's slightly, slightly too large. It probably explains why the old one was such a PITA to get out! I guess it was installed on the bench when the engine was built and pushed / tapped in. There's no way I could get (or want to get!) the new sensor in... So now I'm left with a non functional car, a sensor that doesn't fit and very, very sore arms :( What do you think the best option is - try and sand down the new sensor to get it to fit? Guess I'll have to chop the old one up to see how much plastic there is around the innards... Cheers Jon
Perfect - many thanks. Any chance of the instructions to extricate the relay board #1 - on my back looking up at it from the footwell I can see the underside of it, and reaching up I can feel the relays on the top (with a cover for the connections below) - there looks to be clips to release it somehow, but I can't get it to release.. I've found some pics on here for the 986 which shows the board mounted vertically with lots better access, but none for the 987 which seems to have been designed by Houdini - there's no way I could get at the relays without dropping it down somehow...
OK - so I can see the underside of the relay board looking above the fusebox - it looks like it unclips somehow to drop down to give access to the relays, but I can't figure it out, any pointers? I've got a new DME relay so I may as well fit it, then look at the crank sensor... :)
OK, it appears that there's a relay board above the fuse box (which isn't mentioned in the owners manual at all!), which contains the mythical DME relay.. The next question is how the .... do you get at it??
Thanks for the reply. It's a RHD car, and the only relay listed in the fuse box on the drivers side is 'Relais' (top right) as follows: Is there another fusebox hidden somewhere else that the owners manual helpfully doesn't mention! :)