jl-c

I would have thought the revs drop between D and P was normal. P = no load D = torque converter ready to go? Also when in park it will be in open loop mode whilst in D it will be in closed loop with idle controlled by ECU etc. (Leastways that's the way I understand it to be?) initial high idle possibly due to an induction leak?

Cat? Or has it got them already fitted?

sorry! 

IF this works, I would add a diode in line between your input and the controllers output to stop any back feed of your 12v into the controllers output. This is on the (not necessarily safe) assumption that Porsche do not use this line for data transfer back to the controller.

The hesitation between 3 and 4K could be the transition of the cam from one setting to the other, it is vastly more pronounced the more "sporty" your exhaust is! It seems it needs a lot of back pressure from the exhaust to smooth the transition out. Can't help with the hunting but monitoring live data would seem a sensible move.

I would leave it to a specialist not a main dealer if you choose such a route. Personally, not having done one on a 997 but having done a few BMW's I would suggest that within reason, a sunroof is a sunroof is a sunroof no matter what it is bolted into.

Hi, as the title says, has anybody on here rebuilt one? My master one (one with the microswitch on it) is leaking oil and I would appreciate some pointers in how to strip/rebuild and top up the system when done!  

Many thanks!

As an asides, my drivers side refused to do one touch up, I removed the switch cleaned the internal contact pads and hey presto back to correct operation again. A LOT cheaper than motors! Guess I would start there. Easy to do too. Suspect the passengers side auto after half way up was for 2005 cars only. Seems they changed quite a few things once they were a year or so in!

I think I am correct in saying that passenger window only is auto up after half way. Hold the switch until half way up then let go ?

interesting because I quote from the manual :-

One-touch operation Press the rocker switch upwards or downwards to the second stage.

Window moves to its final position.

Press again to stop the window in the desired position.

One-touch operation for closing the passenger’s window is available once the window is approximately half-way closed.

That is the way mine works too, hence my comment!

I think I am correct in saying that passenger window only is auto up after half way. Hold the switch until half way up then let go ?

Hi, I am fitting an aftermarket TPS which as usual with these things has a USB power plug. Now surprisingly (for me at least) I find the cigarette lighters in the 997.1 are permanently powered and I need an easy to get to ignition controlled supply. Anybody know where I might find such a thing WITHOUT major strip downs and trim removal?  Thanks in anticipation.

997.1 C2S Manual 

Tip is easy, but faintly disappointing. Yes you've got there but you don't feel like you've quite achieved something. Manual, you do! Silly it may be, but it doesn't change the way it makes you feel. Manual every time! Always will give you a smile.

Good luck with this, I think the 

• 8007: No load on left subwoofer   is caused by the Dension because I always get this too!  It is good advice to replace plugs and coils, I did mine when I got the car so I had a starting point to work from. Also did oil change filter,coolant, stat, air filter and belt.

try this

tailgate.doc

Many thanks Loren, just couldn't remember! No point in trying to find a fault if it just doesn't exist !

This is a silly question I know, but it's been so long since I drove it in the dark!  Are the indicator stalks/wiper stalk etc supposed to be illuminated?  Everything else is!  If they are, where is the light source (assuming it would be fibre optics used)

I've looked through the manual and can find no mention of it.

2005 C2S

Mine did the same recently. Just replace the switch unit, easy enough job. No extra relays involved. You can strip the switch down and clean the carbon membrane and it works again! That then gives you a spare!

I would just do a "nut and bolt" check of the front suspension. It will be something silly like a anti-roll bar mount or similar. Or you could just wait until something drops off! No maybe not  :D

As you have the 'best option' a C2 (sorry to all you 4WD chaps!) then get your front wheels balanced on the car. Assuming when you remove them, you replace them in exactly the same position (ie mark 1 point on the hub that aligns with the valve) then the balancing will remove all balance issues in hub, disc, and wheel.

I would love to, however I believe this now falls under the copyright rules and as such I can not post it. However, set your windows/roof as per the drivers manual supplied with your car. Then ignition on, do NOT start, leave on for 30 seconds and throttle will reset then go for a drive doing a left turn then a right turn then straight on before driving off. All should be OK.

apologies to Lauren if this is unacceptable, but it is in my own words!

You will get as expected all the various fault codes PSM, Sport mode etc that will come back after a first drive and running through the reset procedure that used to be on this site (unsure if it still is-Loren?) but I would be concerned about the lack of window operation. I suggest you may have not connected or fully connected one of the plugs in the modules, or did you do anything to the plug/socket in the A pillar? My guess is the former. Hope you find it!

Well, as an owner of a Basalt Black Boat! Grant at Hartech gets my vote too. Had my first 911 off them and have nothing but praise for their knowledge and professionalism. Dansk silencers may be one to look at, they do a loud one and an awesome one! Mr Plod does not really appreciate it but hey, it's not his car Sorry to hear about the bore scoring but at least you are going the right way about fixing it. ( edited as for whatever reason emoticons are not working, and yes the box is ticked)

The two holes are to remove the caps. Insert an angled piece of wire and pull, or indeed ( as I use) a right angled seal pick tool. Emblems are very expensive from Porsche, unless you have money to burn get them from e-bay. If you lose them they are cheap! Caps are held on by a number of plastic clips around the circumference and clip into the wheel centre going in until flush ( hence the holes!) They have to be removed to balance your wheels.

If the feeds are good, check the earth continuity ie. Earth on each bulb holder to a good chassis earth should be zero Ohms or as near as. Only other thing I can think of is the bulb check unit itself or connections to it. Daft as it seems,have you just tried brand new bulbs? I know logic says it can't be the bulbs but logic does not always apply in faults like this ! Corrosion on the contacts will also do this whether it is on the connector pins/sockets or the bulb holders themselves.

1: Yes, they are sealed units. 2: Yes, correct, Car 12V to it so no battery and no required maintenance. 3: Yes you are correct.

I would search for 997 tyre sensors then refine it from there adding 'pressure' if you get too many hits. TPMS may only give a few results as the manufacturers may not use that acronym. Sorry JFP if I stole your reply :-)

I have the Stormforce outdoor breathable cover, cost about £150 but it is a really good one. It is fitted, but tight; yes, but no real challenge to put on or take off.