jl-c

I would start from the light connections and work back as you suggest, referring back to the main earth source namely the battery. When the (assuming the fault is an earth issue! ) Ohms value is at zero or as near as, then you have just gone past the problem point, be it a high resistance connection or a break.

when you unplug your light units, the side that is not connected to the light is the harness. It is all inside your front bumper until it enters the trunk. You can refer it to the earth side of the battery. 

Pin 6 in the multi plug that goes from the lights to the front harness. Brown wire. Check for 0 Ohms (or close to the reading you get shorting both probes together ) from the brown wire in the socket (front harness) to a known earth in the front compartment. You will find various studs on the bodywork with earth wires (brown ) connected to them. Anything above 2 or 3 Ohms and you need to be looking for a break. Check also from pin 6 of the plug you disconnected i.e.. the one that is connected to the actual lights, to each side of the sidelights and fog lights (bulbs removed). Should again be brown wires. pin A2, B2, C2 etc.

OK just read you last post  :D glad you got it sorted :clapping:

Earth? just because it is lit does not mean that the earth is good. It obviously is getting power but due to the wiring of the lights it can earth back via the element of other bulbs if they are not on. You could remove all the other bulbs but it is quicker to check the earth with a multimeter  :) Earth side to the battery -ve (or known earth on the chassis) You could try taking a known good earth and connecting that to the earth (-ve) side of the bulb holder and see if the error goes. I would not advise leaving the connection there, fix the fault, as there is no doubt some 'trick' bit of wiring in the car that would complain! (example on BMW's that if the sidelight fails it lights the indicators constantly on half power to act as a sidelight)

Mine has 1 in range 4, 3 in 5, 3 in 6, pay it no mind, at that low level it is likely to be a software glitch rather than a real issue. Start to be concerned if the are something in the line of 30 in range 6, then be concerned. So many people are paranoid over this. Aehsani is quite correct.

You have probably sorted this now but I once had a cruise play up in a BMW because of a corroded brakelight bulb! Obvious when I found it, but a hell of a thing to try to faultfind! Problem was, although one holder was corroded both brakelights were working fine!

I fit a belt of a known manufacturer such as Goodyear etc, as long as you check it on a regular basis for cracking ( as you should on any vehicle) I can see no benefit from paying out for OE. Porsche don't make belts, someone makes them for them.

Mine can do similar but generally settles down after a bit. It will go very fast if you are too! May be obvious but have you tried really cleaning the sensor area of the screen? It does work on the reflected beam being diverted by water droplets on the surface and dirt will confuse it.

Possibly 997 106 850 01 from your description?  Not too good a drawing in PET but I guess that is the one.

Using the Durametric ( or I assume PIWIS) you can test the disply and turn off the white and red in turn, but to be honest I think that display is kaput. I have seen it before when someone tried to "reset the clock", also when it has got too hot. Maybe not in London though!

I always use the Bosch AeroTwin wipers, just clip on the hook arms. Work well and match the rear one! Good old e-bay. :rolleyes:

Don't know where those parts are but again assuming similarity to BMW item 17 is known as the hedgehog! and symptoms of its failure is a fan that will not retain a constant speed but instead pulses from slow to fast to slow etc. Personally I would try item 15 first.

Please note that this is only guess work on my part, but if this was a BMW I would put money on the fan within the climate control unit that sucks air in from the cabin and blows it across the temperature sensor internal to the controller to provide temperature feedback to the control circuitry. I guess Porsche works the same? It does have a slotted vent between re-circ and ECO buttons is this blocked? As I say, just guessing. Best of luck.

Not necessarily, Porsche may use a pulse to close all the locking actuators. You wouldn't want volts on them all the time the car was locked would you, the battery would soon be flat? They would draw current continuously and in fact would probably burn out as their duty cycle is low. This is why after so many actuations the central locking stops and waits for so long before re-activating. (See you handbook for accurate figures, I forget!) They probably use a 0.5 to 1 second pulse, Then they just "sit" in the position they have moved to (or not in your case!)

just connect the meter leads together and lets say for arguments sake they read 0.3 Ohms, deduct that from your reading and you've got the actual reading. (or at least as accurate as you are getting with that meter) In reality accurate readings are done with 4 leads to sense inputs on the meter too (usually an accurate bench meter, not hand held) that removes the resistance of the actual leads. 

As he is a friend, get an oil sample and have it analysed. If all OK then go for it, and enjoy it, but ignore the recommended oil changes and do them every 6000 miles with good oil (something like Millers Nanodrive CFS 5w40 NT) . Then work your way through the service items as suggested by White987S so that you have a known point to work from. No guarantee as to which IMS you have apart from looking (see JFP's answer to "Decipher a VIN?" )

OK, I am prepared to be shot down, however having followed this after an oil change it works for me. I used the maths below to work out how much the oil would expand when hot as against cold. Did the oil change ran the engine for a minute to get the filter full and the pressure up, then let it stand until the time reverted to the 6 second checks. Topped up oil cold until the last segment was not illuminated. When the car/oil is run up to temperature and then the oil is checked it gives a full indication.

Specific volume of a unit can be expressed as

The change in the units volume when temperature change can be expressed as

dV = V₀ β (t₁ - t₀)          (2)

v = 1 / ρ = V / m         (1)

where

v = specific volume (m³/kg)

ρ = density (kg/m³)

V = volume of unit (m³)

m = mass of unit (kg)

The density of a fluid when the temperature is changed can be expressed as

where

dV = V₁ - V₀ = change in volume (m³)

β = volumetric temperature expansion coefficient (m³/m^{3 o}C)

t₁ = final temperature (^oC)

t₀ = initial temperature (^oC)

ρ₁ = m / V₀ (1 + β (t₁ - t₀))

    = ρ₀ / (1 + β (t₁ - t₀))          (3)

where

ρ₁ = final density (kg/m³)

ρ₀ = initial density (kg/m³)

• water : 0.000214 (1/^oC), 
• ethyl alcohol : 0.00109 (1/ ^oC), 0.00061 (1/^oF)
• oil : 0.00070 (1/^oC), 0.00039 (1/^oF)

You won't notice a difference in the clutch 'feel' as it adjusts itself. It has a clever system of springs and wedges to take up the wear. JFP is correct, just drive it until you have an issue. You may have worn a few hundred miles off, hey, we all live and learn. :oops:  

Wibble , Wibble , Wibble, (gently rocking to and fro!!) :-)

OK enough........ Brain is in overload!

Well, personally I would say you have nailed it. Thank you for finding all this out. It makes sense of Porsche's comments in the manual and also my own observations. I will keep doing a long run on a regular basis to allow me to get an accurate oil reading as my usual run to and from work on a daily basis is only a 4 mile round trip. Oil changes at every 6,000 miles or less I think. No way 20,000!

My oil pressure runs at 5 bar all the time I'm moving, drops to about 3 bar at idle after it is fully warmed up.  Nothing wrong with healthy oil pressure.  As long as you are doing regular maintenance I really don't see a problem.  I run my oil at the top level mark but if it was over that I'd drain a little out.

+1 here!

JFP, this more like it?

http://www.thermal-lube.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/In-Line-Fuel-Dilution-Lube-Ex.pdf

OK I'll keep looking! Unless you manage to find the definitive answer in the mean time  :D

Links that may (or may not!) be of interest on the subject,

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEYQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhrcak.srce.hr%2Ffile%2F75680&ei=HTzeU8foG-ON7QbO8oGgBA&usg=AFQjCNFhYWLdlvTw8_fysXaZdtOlB9Jarw

http://www.tribologik.com/nl_2011sep_en.pdf

https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%20MO%202004-07-02%20Fuel%20Dilution.pdf

happy reading!

Luxter, reading the manual. (we all do don't we?) it appears that Porsche agree with you and what I did to boil off excess fuel/condensation from my oil, I quote:-

Engine Oil

Engine oil consumption

It is normal for your engine to consume oil.

The rate of oil consumption depends on the quality

and viscosity of oil, the speed at which the engine

is operated, the climate, road conditions as well

as the amount of dilution and oxidation of the

lubricant.

If the vehicle is used for repeated short trips, and

consumes a normal amount of oil, the engine oil

measurement may not show any drop in the oil

level at all, even after 600 miles (1,000 km) or

more. This is because the oil is gradually becoming

diluted with fuel or moisture, making it appear

that the oil level has not changed.

The diluting ingredients evaporate out when the

vehicle is driven at high speeds, as on an expressway,

making it then appear that oil is excessively

consumed after driving at high speeds.

If the conditions you drive your vehicle in are

dusty, humid, or hot, the frequency of the oil

change intervals should be greater.

Seek and ye shall find  :D

Oil change this weekend (6,000 m), going away from Mobil 1 and using Castrol Edge 5W 40, but have just purchased oil for the next change and gone for the Millers Oils NANODRIVE CFS 5w-40 NT as recommended on here. Time will tell which suits the best. Intend to get analysis done every 3,000 m to keep an eye on things and get a comparison between them.