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tahiles
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Everything posted by tahiles
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2010 Boxster S side vents
tahiles replied to ScootDoodler's topic in 987-2 Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Spyder)
Question though....... On my previous Boxsters the intake on the driver's side, looking in you could see the "runner". On my 09 this "intake" appears to be closed off so there's been some change. Anyone know what? Also I don't think (could be wrong?) the cooling fan blows "out" but draws air in. Be kind of hard to blow air out at any kind of speed. -
Got the EBC Redstuff for all four corners of my 09 Boxster S. Checked the part numbers against several online databases/dealers and they're the correct part number, DP32029C & DP31208C. The front pads will accept the wear sensors but not the rear pads. I know I can just tie wrap them in place but I'd really like to do it the right way. Has anyone modded the rear pads for sensors?
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09 Boxster S - New Pads - Anti Squeal Grease?
tahiles replied to tahiles's topic in 987-2 Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Spyder)
Thanks, is that available in most auto parts stores.....or will I need to go online? -
Any particular grease or stop squeal special mojo you guys like for the backing plates? Just picked up an 09 Boxster S with 15K miles and will be putting on EBC RedStuff pads all around. I know they'll squeal where the compound meets the rotors for 500 miles or so but I'll suffer that vs the OEM dust. Just want to minimize the back plate / caliper pistion noises. FWIW: I got a PDK car and absolutely LOVE it! Shifts are SO fast and smooth! Of course the other 20K in options don't hurt the experience! Either someone wanted this car loaded up or it was one of the "Introductory" cars. I know that's not what they called the cars they sent to the dealers to introduce the new models (the word escapes me right now), but you know what I mean. They were loaded and mine is one of the color combinations they sent, Ruby Red Metallic with the lighter (tan?) brown interior, 19" Carrera II Wheels, Sport Chrono +, Extended Nav, Heated and Ventilated Seats, Rain Sensor and Automatic Wipers, Bose 10 Speaker Stereo, Bluetooth, Audio Interface, Dual 12 Way Power Seats, Headrest Crests, XM Radio....and a lot of little stuff I can't remember right now.....
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Well the $4500 might be a little easier to swallow if the car is worth $45K. It's a completely different matter on a 03 Boxster S worth 20 ~ 25K (on a good day!) I's NEVER see the $4500 back........... Also it's not like the tranny is toast and I HAVE to do something.
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Yeah I thought about that. I think a Boxster S with a 5 speed might be a pretty hard sale. I'd like to sell the car right now but I'm afraid of the uninformed buyer who thinks a small 2nd gear grind when cold means the tranny is screwed. All it means is that it's a 6 speed Boxster with 70K on the clock. Quite typical. If I was keeping the car I'd definately look into the G Box Rebuild. Any idea how much their "typical" customer lays out?
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2nd gear problems, grinding etc are WELL documented on all 6 speeds. The gears do not align perfectly until the car has warmed up and the gearbox has received some heat transferred from the engine block. There are no known permanent fixes for these problems. Even a costly rebuild will only lessen the problems for a while. A gear detent from G Box is a band-aid for a bullet hole. My next Boxster/Cayman will be a 09 or newer with PDK. No 2nd gear problems, no RMS problems, no IMS problems. Minus those alone are almost worth the price of admission...............
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Sorry if this has been discussed, the search wasn't working for me. Anyone done this swap? I don't like the 1st to 2nd shift problems and from what I understand it's about impossible to make the go away 100%. So.....I'm not a track guy and I don't need to keep the car at 6500 RPM coming out of turn three.....all I need is smooth easy shifting and the ability to hit 2nd gear hard when I feel like dusting off the kid in the Civic. What parts other than the tranny would I need?
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JFP..... I'm seeking additional input or better ideas in troubleshooting the MIRROR problems................ let's not hijack this into a Durametric discussion...... I know what the Durametric Matrix SAYS it does. I just don't think the console lid was enough of a "violation" to merit a stored code. BTW: Went to Sears and got a combination 1/4 and 3/8 drive Torx Tamper-Proof Socket Set. So if I run into any Tamper-Proof fasteners I can deal with them too!
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Thanks.......... But I meant better ideas in regards to troubleshooting the problem. Also just an FYI: The Alarm didn't store a code for the console lid "beep".
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Well the console lid was the cause. good catch JFP! The power mirror switch is receiving the 12V power. I put the meter on the switch and it seems to be distributing the voltage out when the joystick is moved around so that means the power isn't making it to the mirrors. I went into the door to see if there was a plug there and it seems the power mirror wires just go into the door harness which is fed to the Jamb Plug. I remember on the earlier Boxsters these Jamb Plugs would sometimes get wet with rain, corrode and cause problems. Don't know if that was still a problem in 03 or not...anyone? But, in order to inspect inside the plug I'm going to need and 90 degree Torx, like the Allen Wrenches but with a Torx end. Anyone got any better ideas?
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Finally got this fixed. Took the lights out and wanted to switch components from left to right to eliminate some possibilities. Also bought the LED parking light bulbs so wanted to get those installed. Anyway....inside the right headlight the four wire plug going to the Litronic Control was VERY loose. So I had a broken front linkage, both Litronic plugs to headlight units unplugged and a loose plug inside one of the units. Cleared all codes and they stayed clear. Seems as though the headlights level on car startup, is that right? On my Lexus they level when you turn the headlights on, NOT the car... Glad this is over, now if I can just get my stupid power mirrors fixed,
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Good info. I was in the console and probably didn't get that closed all the way. Kind of in a hurry as I had about 30 minutes to do some basic troubleshooting on the mirror problem before I had to get to my office. Thanks!
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Well, another day another problem... Bought my 03 S about a month ago. Noticed during the test drive the power outside mirrors weren't working right. The only command they would respond to was down. They wouldn't come back up or go left or right. So I figured it was the switch since both mirrors behaved identically. Got the switch from Sunset for $85...ouch! Plugged it in and both mirrors worked fine. Went for a drive today and the mirrors won't respond to ANY command. Not up, down , left or right. Pulled and re-seated the switch, checked the fuse (no fuse guide or puller present, THANKS A LOT PO!, so I had to go to the Bentley), swapped the fuse position B5 with another 7.5 amp fuse and still no go. B5 is backup lights too so I tested those and they are coming on, so I know I have power. I sure hope I don't have a problem that's killing switches at $85 a pop! Any ideas or advice? Thanks guys! FWIW: One of the other 7.5 amp fuses I pulled must have been the alarm. I used to have turn signal flashes (only) on lock and unlock. Now I have a horn beep too! Guess this is a dealer set option...right?
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Loren....good stuff...thanks a lot! But....Here's a thought..... Why not swap components from Left to Right? If the problem moves it's the components. If not it's wiring or control unit.............THEN get out the meter????
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How much would you be willing to bet? I can take a screenshot :-) But here's a question... Given that I had intermittent right beam motor actions (using the Durametric), and that now the motor is stuck in position. Also given that I have no sensor faults so the control unit should be getting the signals it needs to move the beams up and down....... and given that both motors stick in the lowest position under normal operating conditions..... Doesn't it sound like the control unit to you?
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Well I didn't try the headlight after the Durametric tests...... so I'll do that later today or tomorrow. I had a bad linkage on the front level sensor I repaired and that had "thrown" a code which cleared and stayed clear. When "commanding" the lights with the Durametric they both moved (initially) so I believe the headlight motors to be OK. Now, the left light will go to all three positions but the right light stays in the downmost postion. I was expecting the Durametric to tell me what my problem was so I wouldn't have to waste any money buying parts to "try" and fix the problem. Really, what good is it to spend $297 (with shipping) to get a couple of codes that no one knows what they mean? Basically cost me almost $300 to find out I fixed the front sensor properly.
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1 & 2 are the actual displayed codes. I didn't see any four digit codes....
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I think I may have solved this. Seems like the PCM has to do with the radio, nav...etc..... Well on my 03 S the radio has been replaced with a Pioneer AVIC. That probably explains the communication problems as well as the error codes......... Sound reasonable?
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I've got two codes..... Instrument Cluster: 9114 PCM Control Unit Automatic Air Conditioning: 38 PCM CAN Timeout Fail Any idea what these mean? Second question...... I try to use the "Clear Codes" command and the computer just works and works until I give up and have to bail out of the program. I'm using PLENTY of computing power so that's not the problem but I don't know what the problem is. Anyone else experienced this?
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Well I got the Durametric today and here's what's going on.................. Had three Litronic Fault Codes. One, the front sensor cleared and stayed cleared. The lights were acting pretty strange during the "activations". Seemed like the left light was doing what it was being told and the right light was cooperating intermittenly. After playing around a little the left light is going to all three positions. The right light is staying pointed down but I don't think it's the motor in the headlight because it did move around a few times when I first started troubleshooting. Anyway the two codes I have left are "1 Engine Path Left" and "2 Engine Path Right". Any advice?
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Thanks for the feedback!
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thom, Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the tester will let me know if the problem is with the sensors or somewhere "inside" the body. Then the codes will give me a little better guidance. Thanks for the help guys, Durametric is on the way, I've downloaded the operation manual so I can gain a little understanding before it gets here. If I need help once I start the troubleshooting I'll ask here. I just HATE not being able to drive my car at night! I can drive it but I don't consider it a safe thing to do..........
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If I'm reading this correctly........if the Durametric will NOT move the lights up and down the problem could be front sensor, rear sensor, main control module, headlight control modules, headlight motors or associated wiring....right? Hardly narrows things down. I don't mind spending the money for the Durametric, as a matter of fact I've ordered one. But if this is all it does for me on the headlights I'll be disappointed.
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Replaced front linkage....NOT front sensor........