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Mijostyn

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Everything posted by Mijostyn

  1. Thanx Silver_TT. Fortunaletly, you do not have to live with my wife. it is goig to take me a while to work this one off. Hey, I'm down in the Apple all the time. My 24 year old aspiring actress daughter lives in Brooklyn. Next time I'm down you might like to give it a spin!!
  2. Yes, some of them you can even trim cut with cutting pliers as is needed. Not a soft as lead, but easier to come by in this environmentally friendly world. You can also get the them pre segmented in quarter Oz. increments which makes them easier to cut: Searching the web I found out that 3M makes a continuous weight tape which is simply cut to length using a special measure. It comes in a 5 pound roll which costs about $300. That is way more expensive than than the old lead tape weights. it does look nice and clean. I'll check the price on these zinc weights. I put the crest decals on the car yesterday and took the car out for a spin with a dealer plate. You certainly know you are in something special. I got it up to speed on a twisty back road. In sport plus mode the car feels like it is on rails. Steering response is immediate. No lean at all. It is spooky. It is also very sedate. It just does it. If there is any emotional craziness in this car it is at insane speeds. I can not take it above 4200 rpm or nail it for 2000 miles. Hopefully, once I can take it up in the rev range the car will become more 911ish. Once you get use to a car this powerful everything else does become......painfully slow. Right Silver_TT?
  3. Thanx. JFP, I'm almost out of good old lead tape weights. I hate the steel ones as it is a pain to cut them into fractional segments. Have you tried the zinc ones? Can you cut through them with an angle cutter?
  4. The 997 ProClip mounts on the center air vent and works great. It can be removed at any time with no damage. JFP, I would agree with you if it were not for Escort Live. Escort live is essentially mandatory for any 911 jockey who spends over 90% of the time north of the border....waYYYYY north of the border. You know where 95% of the police and troopers are miles in advance. The phone warns you visually which you can't miss as long as it is within your field of view. So, you can relax, enjoy your tunes and speed your -ss off!
  5. THE CAR LANDED YESTERDAY. I'll have some photos in a bit. It is still all covered in plastic wrap. The Interior is Killer! Tomorrow I'll put Porsche crest decals on the front fenders and next week the entire front of the car gets covered in Xpel. Then......... :drive:
  6. About $2000 if I do the work myself. Guess I'm sticking with the center lock wheels. Does any one in the after market make center lock wheels?
  7. Beautiful, neat and organized. You can work on my car (big honor). I go into shops and there is sh-t thrown all over the place which means I am OTD (out the door). I do not understand how people can work under those conditions. JFP. Is there an easy way to convert these center lock hubs to regular bolt holes? Some sort of adapter?
  8. Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help: Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one: JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC It just looks like a fancy alignment tool to me. I think the center bolt on the Suncoast tool is to lock it in place from the outside. The 3R tool sometimes needs an assist from a rubber strap wrench to come off, with the Suncoast tool, you would simply loosen the center bolt to get the same results: I have such a leather strap tool so, I might as well save $50. Plus the red tool goes with the red car. Nothing like a color coordinated tool box :-)
  9. Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help: Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one: JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC
  10. Hey JFP. Suncoast sells this Wheel centering tool for center lock wheels. It costs $400. The sales pitch is that it keeps you from dropping the wheel on the brake caliper when you release the lock. Is this a significant problem or can I do without it?? Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help:
  11. Car is due in NEXT WEEK :-)))
  12. The Mo Bridge is ...awful relative to the completely integrated versions in the modern Nav units I checked all the options out completely before I replaced the PCM. PCM Nav is archaic even with the updates. If you do not like using your Nav then keep it by all means. If you just do not want to spend the money then why did you buy a 911 in the first place? Not exactly the cheapest car to maintain although some of us do it brilliantly by doing their own work. Parts are always frightful. If this is "your baby" then make it so. Instead of looking for cheap solutions which is all the Mo Bridge and other such units are, look for the best solutions then hold of till you can afford them. People will argue that they want to keep the car stock as if these cars are anything of special value. Once these cars a driven they lose value just like any other car. Only the special versions are worth anything in the end, but only if they are not driven which to my mind is just plain stupid. The 911 is the ultimate road tool. It drives better than ANY other car in the real world including the vaunted 458. Just try seeing out of the rear quarters. Hit a good sized bump and you rip the bottom off. (It is gorgeous). If you love driving (fast) there is no substitute. Take care of it and drive the h-ll out of it.
  13. Hey DJT, The painted sills are a nightmare. They are going to get all chipped up and there is nothing you can do to stop it. You can order the plain black sills for $400 US. They will look pretty much the same for their lifespan. After 3-4 years, they start getting ratty looking you just replace them. Having to paint them triples the cost of replacement, so you can have a chipped up mess again in several months. No way can I make sence of that.
  14. Hey DJT, Mine is an 06 C4S. We were ripping around this morning. This car Rocks! Anyway, DITCH IT. Our version of PCM is awful. You can integrate a modern head unit/Nav with your MOST loop amplifiers and speakers, Bose or otherwise, by getting a NAV TV MOST head unit replacement module and then the Nav of your choice. I use an Alpine INE W 728 HD but Kenwood makes a nice unit. They make install kits using bezels that have the gold/silver porsche finish on them. It will look absolutely factory. In the process you will get totally modern Nav, BlueTooth phone integration, flawless iPod integration and much better sound. In the US it costs $2500 soup to nuts with a professional installation.
  15. Those short trips are most damaging to your engines. And oil. It takes approximately 10 miles to fully warm the beast up to operating temperature. There is close to 10L of oil and 32 L of coolant. It takes time to bring the machinery to its operating temperature. If on top of that you drive it hard during warm up period, in essence you cause accelerated wear in the engine. Mijostyn, I am certain that your UOA would improve significantly after a long drive. Fuel dilution is typically associated with track use or a pattern of hard acceleration followed by hard braking and over again and again. A fuel dilution reading can be either extrapolated from the flashpoint or an actual reading. Check with your lab what method they use. You may be able to guess fuel dilution by low viscosity and elevated wear. A good tell tale sign is condition of your oil filler cap. Have a look at the inside of it. If you see brown deposits, your engine most likely does not get to Op. Temp. often enough or long enough. Moisture in oil will accelerate oxidation process and introduce acids primarily from combustion byproducts and that will negatively affect your TBN. These are complex issues. I can only offer some suggestions. Based on my UOA, my TBN dropped to 8.4 only after 7,400 kms. That suggest that higher oil change intervals are possible with CFS NT. Happy to discuss this subject further. Cheers, Luke Running CFS NT 5W40 by 6000 miles I am diluted 2.5% and my TBN has dropped almost to 3 which is my limit. I use Polaris who has some difficulty with the Millers. They over read Zinc levels and oxidation. The base stocks Millers use are simply not going to burn in street use. As you suggest after the oil temp is up, I drive the car hard. The world is my race track. This may add to the dilution and acid problem but that is why we do these analyses. I know I can safely run the oil 6000 miles without worry.
  16. You will have to find an alternative location for the intercoolers as there is not enough room in the rear fenders. Silver TT is right, unless you just want to have fun messing around this is a bad move. Even if you could jamb that motor in there the suspension in the C2 is not tuned for the additional weight and power. You are likely to wind up with a very dangerous car.
  17. Papachristou, I do the short trips also and in following UOAs the oil gets diluted with fuel quickly and needs to be changed at 6000 miles. Do not run it longer whatever oil you use.
  18. Hey Lyn, All this is great advice. I have watched my oil carefully with analyses every three thousand miles at first. You can easily run your oil 6 thousand miles. In my car 10,000 is way too far. The oil becomes diluted with fuel and the viscosity drops. You can do every three thousand if you like. But, it is a lot of oil and there are environmental concerns. 6 thouasand is absolutely safe with any fully syntrhetic (Volkswagen 502 spec) oil. 5W40 is actually a bit thicker overall than 0W40. In your environment a 5W40 is just fine. If you were tracking the car frequently then a 5W50 would be a good choice. Don't get too neurotic about it. Enjoy the car. these thing were made to beat on kepp it above 3000 rpm and Rock and Roll.
  19. Nice picture Luxter, it pretty much explains things but does not give you an idea of the scale. These towers are HUGE. Not exact sure but they are at least 4 stories tall. The nickel levels are false. Something about the nano particles screws up the test that Polaris uses. Harry and I both talked to Millers and it is absolutely nothing to worry about. All our other wear metals are excellent. I change the oil 6000 miles because of the falling TBN and fuel dilution. The CSF 5W40 starts out a bit thicker than Mobil 0W40 to start. By the time my oil is diluted 3% it has probably dropped to the viscosity of the Mobil. Some how I get the feeling that some of the problems with cylinders scoring and bearings failing may be due to this. People running their oil out to 10,000 miles may reach up to 5% dilution if their engine is like mine and there must be quite a few. That is more than enough to drop the oils viscosity one whole grade. But also the oil's lubricity drops. It does not reduce friction as well. The CSF nano oils also have a lot more ZDDP in them which helps cut friction quite a bit. I have to say my engine runs like a top and is smooth as silk. The only issue with the Millers is the price.
  20. Hi Adam, That is not trim. It is the actual spokes of the wheel. You have to buy the whole thing.... which you can for a patently rediculous price. Just the center round part is $700 odd dollars. Suncoast Parts sells the whole wheel for $1095.00 http://www.suncoastparts.com/category/991BASE_InteriorKNOB.html
  21. I think I would wait about 10,000 miles before I used a 5W 50. Let the car break in well. CroMoly rings, Lokasil liners, all very hard stuff. I have always noticed that the oil utilization drops as the car breaks in. Up here in New England I would only consider that for a Summer car only. I sort of doubt anyone would drive a GT2 up here in the Winter..... The only reason Porsche uses Mobil products is they have a marketing deal. Mobil was the first with a fully Synthetic oil and I use to use it exclusively in all my cars. But, everyone else has caught up. Porsche is basically recommending oil based on the Volkvagen 502 spec. If it is an approved 502 spec oil you are good to go. It will say so on the label. The Miller's Oil is actually not. It has too much ZDDP in it. This is a friction reducer which a very important ingredient in most oils prior to modern cats. Oils with ZDDP in them are significantly better for your engine and worse for your cats which is why modern oil severely restict its use. The engines are now also designed to run well without it. But like I said you can always burn any ZDDP deposits off buy lightling up those cats. When I drove my 993 TT hard at night the cats actually glowed red! All those high milage oils have much more ZDDP in them. Miller's will be along shortly with a 502 spec nano particle oil for street cars. I use the CFS 5W40 in all my cars now and they run great. In the new 991 Turbo S I will run Mobil 1 for the 1st 10,000 then switch to the Miller's. Same for my wife's new SQ5 Audi.
  22. Hey Kid. I buy several collection sets at a time. $25.00 per collection set. That covers everything. The set is a sample bottle and mailer, labels etc. I just drop the oil filter canister and the oil that is left in it is more than enough to fill the sample bottle. I always replace the filter. You lose about 1/2 liter in the process. Don't forget to clean of the canister well before you drop it. Any contamination screws up the test. I use brake cleaner spray followed by a compressed air blast. The TBN is part of the normal profile. It is a package deal. They then give you the report online. Usually takes them about 10 days.
  23. They sure do. I did not get the keyless entry for the Turbo. I gotta shove a key in on the left and turn it to make things feel right.
  24. I think there is a safety lock out. It has to shut down in a certain sequence or it will not close. They obviously can not keep it powered, it would run the battery down. In the old days it was entirely mechanical.
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