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This sounds like a classic cylinder #6 scoring failure. Read up on it here Flat Six Innovations – Porsche Engine Experts FLAT6INNOVATIONS.COM Visit the post for more.
Yes Dennis, my car will do the same thing unless you put it in launch control. There is always a slight hesitation from a dead stop. Unfortunately the car is geared so tall that driving it like a 911 should be driven will put you in jail. But, never leave the car in default mode. As soon as you start up put in sport mode or drive it manually. The default mode is silliness to keep the mileage numbers down and runs the engine way below where it is happy. What I have learned with my TT S is that there is such a thing as a car being too powerful. In many ways my 2006 manual C4S is more fun to drive. I am considering going for a 992 GTS if it comes with a manual.
seeb429, I have had 8 911's including 3 Turbos. My current cars are a 2006 C4S and a 2014 Turbo S. Porsche put a lot of work into designing these cars and over the past years I have learned the hard way that changing anything is usually a big mistake. There is always a price to pay for any alteration. I would like a little more bark also but what you are likely to get along with it is droning at some speed usually at at the speed you like to cruise at on the highway. I always wind up putting the stock exhaust back on (with stainless hardware) and selling the trick exhaust for a loss. If you change anything just do the headers. Soul makes a beautiful product. This will give you a more staccato sound without making things drone.
Mijostyn replied to WTL's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Hi WTL, Balancing wheels for 911's is an art that most techs do not understand. Having learned that the hard way I bought my own balance machine (a Coats) about 25 years ago and have been balancing my own tires ever since. I am not enamored with Road Force Balancing. I have a friend with a BMW Z8 who had a similar situation to yours. I balance them to under 0.1 OZ and the car ran beautifully. Here are several tips, things to watch for when your wheels are balanced. The tires must be warm. The tech should drive the car around the block and put it right up on the lift. If the car sits for more than 30 minutes the tires will flat spot and will be "unbalanced." I put my car up in the evening when I get home and balance the tires the next day. The wheel mounting surface must be absolutely clean. A good tech will wipe the surface and center hole with a Scotch Bright pad. I also spray the surface with Bostech Glide Coat along with the centering cone and balancer flange. The machine has to be taken off "round off" mode so that it reports weight in hundredths not in 1/4 Oz increments. When a machine in "round off" mode reports "0 Oz" what it really means less than 0.25 Oz. A weight of 0.24 Oz will be reported as "0 Oz" Not good enough for a 911. You have to get it down to less than 0.1 Oz. The tech has to lock the wheel down and spin it several times to make sure he is getting consistent readings. it is VERY easy to miss mount the wheel and unbalance it. Just a spec of sand will do it. The tech should initially mount the weights with packing tape so he can move them around to get it "just right." The best techs will use 3M Wheel Weight Tape now as you can cut it to any size. It is difficult to cut the new steel weights into sections less than 1/4 Oz. A 911 with perfectly balanced wheels is a beautiful thing. Loren is quite right about matching the tire to the rim. Mounting low profile tires is another pain altogether. The machines that will do it without dinging your rim are way beyond my price point. I use a fellow who has a Corgi touch less machine. Mike
Hi all, It has been a while. Anyway My TT is over 5 years old now and although it runs like a top a Spark plug change is recommended on a time basis. The car only has 16K miles on it. I'm also supposed to change the PDCC reservoir. I'm not even sure where the pump is. I most probably have to take the rear bumper off to get to it. The spark plugs are being blocked by the turbochargers. You can get good access by removing the rear wheels and the rear wheel well liners but do you really have to move the turbos? Or, is this just a mater of juggling extensions and scraping knuckles?
Well, I got the car finished today and everything seems to be working fine. So I went out and drove it like I stole it for 30 minutes. The car is almost entirely cooled off. NO DRIP!! I did have to add about 1/2 gallon coolant but I think that is from just shaking the air loose that got into the system. The car is also not stone cold yet so I'm still sort of holding my breath.
I'd love to but the nuts that hold the mufflers to the brackets are rusted so bad I would have to cut them off. In order to get the brackets with the mufflers attached off I think I would have to take off the bumper and some heat shields? When I rebuild the exhaust system I am going to use all stainless hardware. I have everything off but the mufflers including the headers. The only place you can not use stainless is the header bolts as you never want to put stainless into aluminum but the rest of the exhaust including the brackets are stainless. The only logical reason that Porsche would use plain steel nuts on stainless bolts is just cheapness. I would like to report with proper juggling of 2" and 3" extensions and a magnetic spark plug socket you can change your spark plugs including getting your torque wrench to bear on all 6 plugs without removing the muffler brackets. The only penalty is a few skinned knuckles.
Has anyone tried Bar's Leaks? It is supposed to stop small leaks. Apparently GM uses it in their cars which I know is not saying much.
I'd love to but the nuts that hold the mufflers to the brackets are rusted so bad I would have to cut them off. In order to get the brackets with the mufflers attached off I think I would have to take off the bumper and some heat shields? When I rebuild the exhaust system I am going to use all stainless hardware. I have everything off but the mufflers including the headers. The only place you can not use stainless is the header bolts as you never want to put stainless into aluminum but the rest of the exhaust including the brackets are stainless. The only logical reason that Porsche would use plain steel nuts on stainless bolts is just cheapness.
Thanx JFP. Any words of wisdom for getting the plugs back in? I know you are supposed to tighten them to 22 ft lb. But I doubt I will be able to get a torque wrench on the rear most two plugs. The muffler brackets are in the way.
Definitely not a hose leak. I can see exactly where it is coming from. Since it is so slow I think I will drive it a little and see what happens just for fun. I will report back. One fellow told me that heat cycling the casting of the water pump might relax it so if there were the slightest warp in it that it might settle in. Personally I think that is BS. I think that the pump would have to get a whole lot hotter than 200 degrees to change the shape of the casting but what do I know. By the way I was jinxed from the beginning. My pump came with 2 gaskets!
My car is a 2006 C4S. As I have the car apart I might as well replace the plugs as they have 25K miles on them. Denso makes Iridium plugs for this car. Pelican Parts stock them. Has anyone tried them? Are they a good idea? They are supposed to last longer and replacing the darn things is a knuckle scraping affair.
Hi all, Three weeks ago I got about 30 yards out of the drive and the Battery/Alternator warning lit up. Back in the garage the battery measured 12.6 volts. When I started the car it dropped to 11 volts = bad alternator. When I got the belt and alternator of I notice the water pump was oozing from the bearing which was clunk clunk loose. After replacing everything with new components, gaskets and coolant the water pump started leaking immediately from around the bottom of the gasket. I had tightened everything to spec. I gave all the bolts another 1/4 turn and the leaking slowed to just two or three drops overnight. I have not run the car yet as I still have to replace the spark plugs and rebuild the exhaust system as four of the nuts have rusted away to nothing, totally gone! The others I have to cut off with a Dremel tool. Anyway will the leak stop after a few heating cycles or am I going to have to do the job again with a new gasket? Should I use a sealant? All mating surfaces were meticulously clean.