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Well, I got the car finished today and everything seems to be working fine. So I went out and drove it like I stole it for 30 minutes. The car is almost entirely cooled off. NO DRIP!! I did have to add about 1/2 gallon coolant but I think that is from just shaking the air loose that got into the system. The car is also not stone cold yet so I'm still sort of holding my breath.
I'd love to but the nuts that hold the mufflers to the brackets are rusted so bad I would have to cut them off. In order to get the brackets with the mufflers attached off I think I would have to take off the bumper and some heat shields? When I rebuild the exhaust system I am going to use all stainless hardware. I have everything off but the mufflers including the headers. The only place you can not use stainless is the header bolts as you never want to put stainless into aluminum but the rest of the exhaust including the brackets are stainless. The only logical reason that Porsche would use plain steel nuts on stainless bolts is just cheapness. I would like to report with proper juggling of 2" and 3" extensions and a magnetic spark plug socket you can change your spark plugs including getting your torque wrench to bear on all 6 plugs without removing the muffler brackets. The only penalty is a few skinned knuckles.
Has anyone tried Bar's Leaks? It is supposed to stop small leaks. Apparently GM uses it in their cars which I know is not saying much.
I'd love to but the nuts that hold the mufflers to the brackets are rusted so bad I would have to cut them off. In order to get the brackets with the mufflers attached off I think I would have to take off the bumper and some heat shields? When I rebuild the exhaust system I am going to use all stainless hardware. I have everything off but the mufflers including the headers. The only place you can not use stainless is the header bolts as you never want to put stainless into aluminum but the rest of the exhaust including the brackets are stainless. The only logical reason that Porsche would use plain steel nuts on stainless bolts is just cheapness.
Thanx JFP. Any words of wisdom for getting the plugs back in? I know you are supposed to tighten them to 22 ft lb. But I doubt I will be able to get a torque wrench on the rear most two plugs. The muffler brackets are in the way.
Definitely not a hose leak. I can see exactly where it is coming from. Since it is so slow I think I will drive it a little and see what happens just for fun. I will report back. One fellow told me that heat cycling the casting of the water pump might relax it so if there were the slightest warp in it that it might settle in. Personally I think that is BS. I think that the pump would have to get a whole lot hotter than 200 degrees to change the shape of the casting but what do I know. By the way I was jinxed from the beginning. My pump came with 2 gaskets!
My car is a 2006 C4S. As I have the car apart I might as well replace the plugs as they have 25K miles on them. Denso makes Iridium plugs for this car. Pelican Parts stock them. Has anyone tried them? Are they a good idea? They are supposed to last longer and replacing the darn things is a knuckle scraping affair.
Hi all, Three weeks ago I got about 30 yards out of the drive and the Battery/Alternator warning lit up. Back in the garage the battery measured 12.6 volts. When I started the car it dropped to 11 volts = bad alternator. When I got the belt and alternator of I notice the water pump was oozing from the bearing which was clunk clunk loose. After replacing everything with new components, gaskets and coolant the water pump started leaking immediately from around the bottom of the gasket. I had tightened everything to spec. I gave all the bolts another 1/4 turn and the leaking slowed to just two or three drops overnight. I have not run the car yet as I still have to replace the spark plugs and rebuild the exhaust system as four of the nuts have rusted away to nothing, totally gone! The others I have to cut off with a Dremel tool. Anyway will the leak stop after a few heating cycles or am I going to have to do the job again with a new gasket? Should I use a sealant? All mating surfaces were meticulously clean.
Hi, I'm no expert on this but maybe the Thermostat is bad. It is easy to replace. It is right in front of the water pump.
Mijostyn replied to Mijostyn's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Got the Numeric cables and Shift Console installed this weekend. Having read that the cables increase transmission whine I used all the insulators and Grommet that came on the stock cables and shifted them to the Numeric cables. Getting the grommet in from below is impossible so I jammed it in from the top which seems to have worked fine as I have absolutely no increase in transmission whine that I can tell. Shifting is much more direct and mechanical, like having a gated sifter. The abrupt "thunk" at the end of each shift might bother some people. It is almost like tapping a hammer against a thick steel plate. Shifting effort is decreased even with the same throw as the short throw Porsche shifter that came with the car. I did this because I was having trouble shifting into 1st and 2nd which my Indy thought might be a cable or cable end problem so I figured that while I had the car apart I might as well go all the way. Is it worth $900? I would have to say that unless you are in love with rifle bolt shifting and otherwise have normal shifting the answer is no. If your cables break which seems to be not unusual then going for the Numeric cables is a go. They are very well made, appear very durable and are a breeze to adjust. You definitely do not need the jig that is sold to hold the shifter in position. The Numeric Shift console is certainly a nice piece and I have nothing to say against it other than the price. A shame that it is entirely hidden. It is certainly has better bearings than even the Porsche GT3 unit.
Mijostyn replied to Mijostyn's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Well I did not fall for the Light weight fly wheel but I did fall for the transmission mount inserts, the softer ones. The problem I was trying to solve was with rapid transitions in power I could feel the engine banging around back there sort of like driveline lash. Everyone told me it was normal but I had never felt it in the 7 other 911s I had owned. They all said the motor mounts were fine. The one thing that most definitely went away with the stiffened motor mounts was the thunk-thunk I was getting on and off the power. The transmission mount stiffener by itself did not significantly increase the vibration in the car but it did change the sound seeming to lower it in frequency. The new stock motor mounts are on the way and I am hoping they will solve the thunk problem. You can "tune" the transmission mount inserts by trimming back the ears that insert into the slots in the mount. Guess I have nothing better to do.
Hi Everyone, I got my car back from my Indy and the clutch feels great! Feeling chipper I decided to mount a set of Rennline Semi Solid Engine Mounts as one of my old mounts had failed and I though I'd like a little more "character" in the car. Installing them was easy and I used the softest yellow inserts. My experienced advise is......DON"T DO IT!!!! There is a more vibration and low frequency buzz below 3000 RPM. Above 3000 the car is intolerable. At 85 MPH the entire car is buzzing and frankly sounds awful. It is nothing like putting a louder street exhaust in it. If you are racing just put the solid mounts in it. If not and you want a little more stiffness get the Porsche GT3 mounts. This is a big mistake if you use your car as a daily driver like I do and even if you do not I can not believe anyone in his right mind would think this sounds good. And by the way my Indy politely warned me not to do it just not firm enough. Anyone want to try them? You can have these, just pay for the shipping.
Mijostyn replied to johzev's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)The Roadster Bags I saw were only for C2's It specifically says, "nicht AllRad." Just measure the trunk and go to your local department store and get roller bags that fit. The ones we have lie down and stack one on top of the other. Having said that the bulk of the luggage and stuff goes behind the front seats. Duffels work great. I put the front wheels of our bikes back there. Get the roof racks. In the Summer our bikes go up there and in the winter a Thule box for the skis and whatever does not fit in the car. Once I transported 200 board feet of Mahogany tied to the racks, a rather silly sight. Tried to upload some pics but it would not do it for me :-(
Mijostyn replied to Mijostyn's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Great. What I might do then is tie some twine to the cable ends below and the other end to the tranny so when l pull the cables out from above the twine will follow the same route then reverse the procedure. It looks to me that the only real screw up you can make is attaching the cables to the wrong actuator. I would do that.