Mijostyn

OK, If I might, how much did you pay for it? Certainly you will be able to get music out of it and radio if you can integrate it with the car's antenna which I am not sure if they changed between versions. It will certainly fit physically into the dash. Some functions may not work or may require programming. The various units in the car talk to each other over the MOST bus, particularly the instrument cluster and the PCM along with the gateway module which then gets data from yet other modules. But, not to fret. If you can not get it to work to your satisfaction you have quite a few other options in the aftermarket. I totally re did the front end in my 06 C4S and it is fully up to modern spec.

 

But is there any wear or damage that can occur in time ??

 

Not really, as it only happens intermittently, it just feels a bit goofy.

 

 

Goofy it is. It seems a bit worse than the older cars. JFP is this not because the front dif in the AWD cars does not allow the front wheels to turn at their own rate in a sharp curve ?

Just a follow up if anyone is interested. The clicking stopped entirely after 3000 miles. Porsche never contacted me which is just fine. If it ain't broke...don't fix it.

Monster 1, Did you buy this unit yet?

 

 

 

 

I understand that you can run Durametric on an Apple platform using an Windows emulator program.

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric.

 

 

I have not spent much time with the latest version of this scanner, but these things are more code readers than a true diagnostic tool.  The one that I looked at could not read cam deviation values, would not reset air bag or service reminders, was incapable of re-coding a car (activating on board computers, cruise controls, steering angle resets, activate the ABS/PSM system to bleed air out of it, etc.), etc.  The fact that their advertising says it works on multiple European brand models raises a big flag as Porsche has long been known for have a unique diagnostic system.  Even the guys that make excellent diagnostic tools for VW and Audi will tell you that their tools are hamstrung on a Porsche and to go to Durametric.  I'm sure it will read global OBD II codes on a Porsche, but remain circumspect that it can function in the traditional "protected codes" areas of the car.  The only tools that I know of that can do that are the Durametric, PIWIS, and AutoLogic systems.  And before you ask, an AutoLogic tool set up for Porsche is approaching $12K, plus updates.

 

 

Thanx JFP. It is only a code reader and resetter. This particular version is Porsche specific and I do think it reads all the codes. At least it has one chapter on OBD codes and other chapters on stuff like the seats. I have no way of knowing if it is missing codes. $12,000 is out of the question. If I had that money now it would go into a Fabspeed perfomance system for the Turbo :-) I'll look into a cheap Laptop. The consumer Durametric is limited to three cars. Do you know what happens when you run out of cars? Can you buy an extension or do you just have to buy another one? The only other way out of this one is to spend twice as much on the Indie version. How do you get updates??

 

 

I believe that you can either convert the Enthusiast version to the Pro for a fee, or get the unit reset back to three available for a fee.  As I have always used the Pro version, I am not sure of the exact proceedures, but if you drop Durametric an email, I'm sure they will fill in any details for you.

 

Periodically, with no definitive time pattern, Durametric releases a new version with patches, bug fixes and new features.  When they do, you go to their website and download the new version, following the instructions on the site to replace the older version.  Updates are unlimited and completely free.

 

 

One last question JFP. Does the Durametric now do what ever it takes to change the clutch fluid in PDKs??

Hey Stea1th, I was just down in your neck of the woods. My Wife's parents live up a bit in Winston county. Nice to hear from a Porsche owner down there, I was beginning to think you all just drove pick ups! (in spite of Porsche's diving school being one click to the south.) 

Any way, Satellite radio is line of site and in some environments it can get really bad such as New York city where you have all these tall buildings around you blocking the view. A lot of your secondary roads down there are densely tree lined and may cause a problem. Having said that, your other cars worked well in the same environment. Essentially it works but the reception is bad. The first suspect would be the antenna or it's wiring. I'm not sure where it is on the car but in a lot of cars it is that little fin thing up on the roof. Maybe JFP knows. I have not seen it on my car which is now under cover for the Winter. Since your car is under warrantee, If you can't get your dealer to look into it go to another dealer and tell them how unhappy you are and that you will gladly switch to them if they can take care of the problem. You could buy and plug in a new antenna but that gets a bit complicated and why should you do that after you paid for certification. 

 

 

I understand that you can run Durametric on an Apple platform using an Windows emulator program.

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric.

 

 

I have not spent much time with the latest version of this scanner, but these things are more code readers than a true diagnostic tool.  The one that I looked at could not read cam deviation values, would not reset air bag or service reminders, was incapable of re-coding a car (activating on board computers, cruise controls, steering angle resets, activate the ABS/PSM system to bleed air out of it, etc.), etc.  The fact that their advertising says it works on multiple European brand models raises a big flag as Porsche has long been known for have a unique diagnostic system.  Even the guys that make excellent diagnostic tools for VW and Audi will tell you that their tools are hamstrung on a Porsche and to go to Durametric.  I'm sure it will read global OBD II codes on a Porsche, but remain circumspect that it can function in the traditional "protected codes" areas of the car.  The only tools that I know of that can do that are the Durametric, PIWIS, and AutoLogic systems.  And before you ask, an AutoLogic tool set up for Porsche is approaching $12K, plus updates.

 

 

Thanx JFP. It is only a code reader and resetter. This particular version is Porsche specific and I do think it reads all the codes. At least it has one chapter on OBD codes and other chapters on stuff like the seats. I have no way of knowing if it is missing codes. $12,000 is out of the question. If I had that money now it would go into a Fabspeed perfomance system for the Turbo :-) I'll look into a cheap Laptop. The consumer Durametric is limited to three cars. Do you know what happens when you run out of cars? Can you buy an extension or do you just have to buy another one? The only other way out of this one is to spend twice as much on the Indie version. How do you get updates??

I understand that you can run Durametric on an Apple platform using an Windows emulator program.

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric.

Has any one used this scanner? It is Porsche specific and does not require a computer. It reads all the codes and has a code library. It is updateable online. It is a lot cheaper than a Durametric which also requires a PC laptop.

I have all Apple computers. 

 

Noises like this can be a real pain and they can be very tough to localize. With the Engine Ear you will have your answer in 30 seconds before you waste a lot more money and time replacing parts. This makes the kit an extreme value and I believe a must for anyone who likes to work on their own cars. I think I paid $89 for mine on Amazon. Here are two pictures one with the probe attached. I hardly ever use the probe. Just pointing the microphone around does the trick 99% of the time.

 

 

 

Hi Andy, Welcome aboard.

 

The 2014 Boxter is a wonderful car and many do think it handles better than a 911. I think this GT/not GT argument misses the point.

The 911 has certain handling characteristics that many of us find endearing. If you want more sports car character then you get a GT3 or GTS or go to the aftermarket. The 911 is the only car pretending to be a sports car/super car that you can load your wife into with a weeks worth of baggage and your bikes on the top and actually go somewhere. In all wheel guise it is perfectly capable in the snow. As a road tool it is without peer. I would miss your 964 and I think you should find another then when you win the lottery you can Singerize it!!

I think what bothers me most about the 991 version is what I call the Audi factor. 911s have always been sort of ...rustic. The rough edges giving them character which actually varies from one to the next. The 991 is so polished, jewel like, that it is harder to find the character in it. Again, the GT3 and GTS are big steps in the right direction. I have a Turbo S and it is almost entirely devoid of character regardless of what the reviews say. Once I own it outright I will fix that with a Fabspeed exhaust, chip, and bigger rubber with Forgeline wheels. The goal being to turn it into an all wheel GT2. The nice thing about these cars is since they are raced there are all sorts of options out there to personalize your car.

Some good advise here. It does sound to me like your belt is slipping. The belt tensioner may be bad. Engine Ears will tell you exactly where the noise is coming from. This is an electronic amplified mechanic's stethoscope and IMHO worth their weight in gold. It will find any rattle or noise.

http://www.amazon.com/Products-steelman-Stethescope-Electronic-Engine/dp/B000WNJ90W If for instance it is your water pump going the noise in the headset will be dramatically louder when you point the directional microphone at the water pump.

If it is your belt slipping then you should replace it as well as figuring out why it is slipping. It could be a bad tensioner or a bad bearing anywhere in the accessory drive. The Engine Ears will tell you which pulley is slipping. If it turns out to be something else altogether then the Engine ears will lead you right to it.

JFP, how often to the tensioners fail??

I drove a white one but the Blue is terrific! Good luck aehsani

 

Root,

 

"After 500 miles I went to 7500 routinely. After 750 miles hit 9K a few times. Since 1000 miles I go as high as conditions, traffic etc. allow.. Master techs and others in the know say I have been too cautious."

 

Thanks; that's very helpful.

I think going up the rev range after 500 miles is good for the car you just don't want to nail it.

It is actually sport and sport plus, the sport plus has the shoulder bolsters. Cocoa is a richer brown than Espresso. Good luck

The hood is also cocked. Look at the base of the windshield. Look at all the other wrecks. All Porsche! maybe even all 911s. In various stages of decay. God knows what they stuck in this car to get it salable? Ocmacman, I hope you have not spent any money on this car yet. We all think you are in for a rude surprise. Unless you want a very expensive hobby you'd better steer clear.

Absolutely normal Totaldental. When you pick up the pace it all makes sense. But, you have to maintain the car. Make sure the wheels are balanced correctly and round. Bent rims and balance problems are telegraphed by that steering but, a 911 that is maintianed correctly is a beautiful thing. Make sure the tire pressures are right. Once you are use to 911 steering everything else feels numb.

Hey Mat,

Loren is right, the clusters are substantially different BUT, it is highly unlikely to be a cluster problem. If the gauge is reading at all it is probably OK. I am not totally sure but I believe a wiring issue might look like a cluster problem. A new cluster is about 3 grand. You might be able to source one from a wreck but I would have another good look at it first. Try a local indie.

That would be Expresso. There are two different seats, regular and sport. The sport has the wings at the shoulders. They still use basically the same seats today. They are all made by Recaro. My 06 C4S has the sport seats. Only the center sections are perforated as they did not yet have seat ventilation. If you go to the Porsche web site you can see the seats.

The nuts just carve a thread into the soft brass of the crest when they are installed. I usually end up just pulling them off with needle nose pliers.

The nuts are inexpensive but the crests by gone up by a factor of 10x in the last few years.

 

Yes, that's what I assumed (a groove being carved). I have no issues with destroying the nuts to get them off, but I can't get a good grip on the nuts with the needle nose. At least the needle nose pliers I have. The holes just aren't big enough to get the pliers in there for a good grip.

 

This is why I've asked about if there were any tool recommendations.

 

Thanks, for all suggestions and help.

Here is what you do. You gently slip a thin metal putty knife under the apex of the crest and slide it all the way up to the posts. You are lucky in that you have film on the car. Just using a long 8 mm socket with your fingers gently pries up on the crest while you spin off the nuts. You will have to alternate between the nuts. If you damage the gasket you can get a new one on line. The one weak point on these crests is where the posts are welded into the body. They frequently snap off here. If one does just break off the other one, throw the gasket away and use 3M high strength mounting tape to mount the crest. You cover the back of the crest entirely with tape then trim the tape just inside the edge of the crest and press the crest on. I promise you it will not come off till you want it too.

If you are going to re film the hood use Xpel and cover the whole hood. Fix all the nicks and rub the whole hood out well first.

Absolutely not. Most inexpensive meters have a lot of error getting close to Zero. If you use 10 different meters you will get 10 different readings. When the coils fail the resistance goes very high all the way to completely open. 

 

Has anyone actually tested the resistance on a set of new coils?  I just got a set of new Beru coils, and the resistance between pins 1 & 15 on all 6 of them is right at 1.0ohm.  The chart above indicates that it should be 0.3-0.7ohms.

 

Should I be concerned?

 

I have the same issue with my 2009 C2S. The throttle dips and often I think that it's about to stall. Sport mode solves the issue but introduces jerkiness instead.

In normal mode my Turbo S wants to upshift to 7th at 30 mph which is patently STUPID. Porsche did this for MPG numbers.

So, in normal mode I shift to manual operation. Sport mode cures this barely. It still upshifts too early IMHO. Sport plus rocks. I find that once you learn the sweet spots you can actually shift smoother than the computer can. It is most certainly different than a normal manual. For instance I now downshift a lot later than I use to with a normal manual. I only let the computer shift when I am otherwise engaged say in picking a CD or in a conversation. Funny thing is that if my car had been offered with a manual I would have gotten it and that would have been a big misstake.

There is no way you can keep up with this car with a manual tranny, things just happen too fast. You brake harder, go into corners faster, accelerate faster. Porsche is right as is Ferrari.

Thanx JFP . I've never had a stuck piston so I never had to deal with one. Experience is everything.

What do you do if the surfaces are glaze? How do you measure the pressure coming out of the master cylinder?kir

..

 

The hydraulic system in these cars can easily generate one to two thousand PSIG of fluid pressure; using that to pop out a piston can be anything from dangerous to having brake fluid everywhere when it comes out.

 

Gazing is the transfer of brake pad material (usually the resin that bonds the pads together ) to the rotor surface and then often back onto the pads themselves.  Glazing can often be removed by lightly sanding the pads and buffing the rotors:

 

 

If the rotors are very glazed, a light cut might be in order if they have enough meat left.

 

Brake system pressure is measured by attaching gauges to either the calipers or the brake lines:

 

 

An additional thought would be to check your power brake booster as well, they tend to collect water and suffer small vacuum leaks, which would also significantly reduce perceived braking efforts.

Thanx JFP, looks like I have my work cut out for me this week end. Fortunately I already have a wire brush.

Thanx JFP . I've never had a stuck piston so I never had to deal with one. Experience is everything.

What do you do if the surfaces are glaze? How do you measure the pressure coming out of the master cylinder?kir

..

Baker, I had exactly the same problem when I replaced my sensors. The car should auto learn the new sensors. You do not need a PIWIS. You have to go through the whole routine of programming the car for Summer vs Winter wheels, full or partial load pressure etc.

The routine is confusing as to whether you push or pull the control stalk. I was screwing it up for 2 days before I finally went to the manual and got it straight. Maybe I'm dim witted but it seems like they could have done this in a more logical way. Hope that does it for you. These electronic issues can be a royal pain. You have the right sensors as the Durametric can read them through the car.

al

I would concur with Ahsai in soaking the part with penetrating oil and letting it sit, perhaps over night. Worst case scenario is having to rebuild the caliper with a new piston, but this is the exception rather than the rule as they usually come out once the penetrant does its thing.

This happens due to corrosion, particularly on cars that have seen salted winter roads. Once removed, be sure to coat the parts with anti seize compound to prevent this from happening again.

JFP, to get a stuck piston out couldn't you just restrain the other three pistons with clamps and step on the brake pedal? Containing the caliper in a bucket would catch any brake fluid. Now that we happen to be on brakes, those in my C4S are just not stopping well. I changed the brake fluid and bled the calipers from both sides. If they got any better at all it was probably psychological. The front rotors and pads have only 21k miles on them, the rears are the originals. All parts are OEM Porsche. Got any ideas? Anyone?